I use a cheapish ultrasonic cleaner with neat Gunk degreaser and run it for 15 minutes or so. Results are similar to the shake in a jam jar method and the main advantage over simply wiping it down on the bike is removing the grit that accumulates in the links. Providing you relube properly afterwards I dont see a problem.

Trick with the lower power cleaners is to only fill with enough liquid to cover the chain so that you do not lose too much of the energy.

Yes I have Tech 3 E4 and a Eagle GX shifter. No problems using  the hope mount.

Are you sure you have not got a GX DH shifter by mistake? (7spd). The Eagle one has an eagle logo on the shifter lever.

My RP23 started sounding squelchy so used the same logic as you and bought a used CTD. Obviously the length and stroke have to match the old one, but I figured getting the correct matching custom tune was probably impossible so ended up with one tuned for another make of bike (4 digit code on shock)

Overall still a vast improvement. I did get an LV can rather than matching the old HV one and it now has much better support.

The Climb/Trail/Descent lever is fairly subtle in its operation so dont expect a full lockout on climb.

Yes it is a common problem on all versions of Guides. I sanded a tenth of a mm off the diameter of the piston and reassembled with sram dot grease. Has been ok since. For some reason the plastic seems to swell slightly with age/heat and get stuck.

I went for retro/modern and got my 93 Cindercone updated with disk tabs and repainted.

Reason for this was although I had owned it from new, the only original bit I had left was the frame, even the forks had to be sourced and they are the slightly later suspension corrected ones, but I think it helps slacken the angles a tad.

Rides great and a good winter bike.

Only problem is lack of clearance to fit more than a 2.1 tyre on the back.

If you are careful you can try the following

1. Remove post and saddle.
2. Extend post and hold in a vice carefully
3. Depressurise the air from the bottom
4. Don some safety googles and try and cover the top with a rag whilst doing the next step
5. Remove the circlip in the top
6. Remove the poppet valve with some needle nose pilers. At this point it may pop like a cork and lose some oil
7. Top up oil and use oil height tool to set corect level
8. Reassemble and bleed remote, test.
9. If post will not go down redo oil height or bleed remote.

This worked for me and lasted a few months before it started sagging again. Second time I made a mistake and cycled the post with the top cap off so the IFP moved out of position inside so had to do a complete strip down and service (IFP height tool then needed). After that has lasted 18 months so far.

If the mech cage is horizontal or past that when in small/small then due to the angles involved it will have difficulty controlling the chain tension effectively and is also very close to its end stop.

In fact yours is on its end stop.

The sag is caused by some of the pressurised air (which is only used to push the post up) getting into the oil side of the piston. The oil flow in and out of the piston is controlled by a poppet valve (which in turn is controlled by the oil in remote which is a separate circuit). The oil supports your weight as it does not normally compress, but if air gets into it then it will and cause the sagging. A basic service will fix it as that involves refilling the oil, however SRAM will say that a post that is sagging should not be home serviced because the oil is now pressurised with the leaked air and can cause bits to be ejected with a bang like a cork from a bottle when you disassemble it.

I did mine and just had to cover it with a rag to contain the explosion. Since then I have avoided picking it up by the saddle and the problem is not returned. A small investment in tools and a similar job to rebuilding a shock damper. SRAM has some instructional videos.

As above I live close to the Gatwick warehouse so use it purely as a way to get bits quickly if I don’t want to mail order. However I find I am using them more and more as their pricing has become a lot more competitive in recent years plus matching of all the other big UK players.

I cannot say I have ever used the workshop or asked for advice because I research what I want before hand, but the staff are generally pleasant. Sometimes try and engage them in some bike chat whilst paying, but they never seem that interested.

My understanding was that using the Tacx Vortex via Bluetooth only works with their own apps. 3rd party’s apps like Zwift and Trainer Road have to use ANT+. That is certainly how I use mine with a Sunnto USB in the PC. Tacx may have changed this in newer firmware, but that was the way it was when I bought mine in January.

My 93 Cindercone owned from new. Not much left from the original bike other than the frame. Had it modernised by Argos Cycles a few years ago who added the disk brake tabs and repainted it in epoxy.

Still playing around with various tyres and components to get it setup nicely.

Tyres are a problem as the rear cannot accommodate anything too big. Also the seatpost is a Control Tech which has an internal reinforcing bar up the middle but it has still bent slightly and I am not that heavy. Would be impossible to replace as nothing decent available in 26.6 anymore.

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Just out of interest I looked at an old GoPro I took in May 11 and there is no line to the left of the split tree and the ‘chicken’ line is so far over to the right I have never noticed it until now. So I assume the left one had just formed in the year up to the accident.

I liked the first episode where he fitted her new brakes but obviously couldn’t shorten them to the correct length, so you could see them flapping about the rest of the programme. The reverb hose then got ripped out in her little crash probably for the same reason.

I was under the impression Superstar only sell through their website, so prices would be somewhat fixed.

It would be a good idea from them to mark it up one way particularly after all the effort of making it. At the moment it is not very clear and kind of ruins it having to stop and let people past etc.

I waited 4 months for Middleburn to make some Xtype UNO rings last summer. That was pretty annoying as it was the last thing to finish the bike but I was already invested in the cranks. But it was the one I really wanted so was patient.

You could try signing up and having a nose at the GPS sharing site Strava, particularly ‘segments’ . Some are starting to appear there.

30/32/36mm refers to the diameter of the fork stantions, and is a trade off between stiffness and weight depending on what type of riding the fork is aimed at. That does not affect whether it will fit the bike.

The steerer tube diameter is the figure you want which will most likely be in inches and is probably 1 1/8″

You also do not want to increase the travel too much over what it has now as that will affect the geometry and the way it rides.

used parcel2go and Yodel no problems

The standard fox top hat bushes (silver) are a push fit and are normally pretty tight in the DU. Of course this then rotates up against the mounting point on the frame or link as the suspension moves which has always struck me as a bit odd but that is the way it is.

imo replacing the bushes with Tftuned heavy duty ones is a good idea as they are designed to allow the bush to rotate on itself and perhaps provide better suspension performance as that is less friction.

Ideally you do need a tool to hammer out the DU, but you could save money and replace only the end that attaches to the upper link as that rotates more than the frame end.

mk1 nomads use 22mm 3/8″ bushes not sure on mk2s.