Alot of the cheaper stands cannot support the weight of a bike held by the seat post and twist downwards. Park ones have a nice big friction clamp for that reason

I have a Tapo camera in mine which sends an alert to my phone if movement is detected. I set a zone by the door so it is triggered by somebody entering. Not exactly sure what I will do if the worst happened and I was far away but it is piece of mind to be able to check up occasionally. Obviously it needs power and WiFi coverage.

Just spent most the afternoon doing the same. Removed and regreased cranks and bottom bracket. Flip chip and Fox roller bearing (had problems with that before). Eventually traced to seat post clamp and pedals/crank interface. Didn’t expect the seat post to be a problem on a carbon frame but there you go.

3d printed mount

Re. With the hope mount

The upgraded paddle is better imo. I also 3d printed a new adaptor with more angle, but couldn’t get it stiff enough compeared to aluminium. Got used to the original now.

FYI The On-One dropper remote fits fine with the Hope direct mount.

I just replaced the bearings only in the OEM RF Cinch BB, put in something decent like Enduro Bearings and the rest of it is fine. For balance my Next carbon cranks are still fine after 4 years. I am careful to not overtighten the pedals and use a torque wrench for the 40Nm crank attachment.

I just bought a Oneup with their own remote and it uses a normal gear cable.

Something rubbed the top section of stanchion on my dual crown forks once. I think the bike was closest to the van and the metal work was different in that area.

Normally there is enough room between the bikes.

I have started using flats for bike parks or any ride where I know the focus will be on descents and jumps. And my riding is all the better for it. Still swap back to SPDs/Mallets for more distance type XC rides on my MTB and only use SPDs on the gravel bike.

I got a tool off eBay which has the compresser bit on the end of a cable so can be wiggled into any location and the bit you squeeze stays remote in you hand. Well worth it.

I sanded mine a few years ago and just checked the bike which is in a 40deg shed and they are working fine still.

I found it fine if you can balance the weight of the bike in the clamp; centered along the top tube for example. But hopeless for clamping on the seat post like so many modern bikes need as the off center weight just meant it slowly rotated into the ground no matter how hard you tightened the other clamps. After many cheap stands got a Park one in the end.

@timbog160

Using a web browser (not the app); Go to your settings (drop down menu top right with your picture) > my account > Download or Delete Your Account (Get Started) > Select option 2

You will be emailed a link to download the archive

VeloViewer seem to be one of Stravas preferred 3rd parties as they were in the minority that were told of the changes in advance (according to DC Rainmaker). Also VV posted a non judgemental blog/tweet of the changes which Strava retweeted. So you would hope they have the ear to get that fixed.

My quick play with routes (as I have now started a trial), confirmed Plotaroute is way better mainly for using OSM Cycle maps. Strava routing seemed of no use for anything offroad.

VeloViewer still seems to be pulling down segment placings for me even though everything I have read implies that should have stopped by now as a free user?

EDIT – ok I see that the Today and This Year leaderboards have gone since yesterday which is something I looked at after a ride to get an occasional ego boost. I guess the API will follow shortly. I understand they want/need to make money but at this particular time people are less likely to be committing to monthly subs.

The sizing makes no sense now and contradicts the guidance for the Space Chicken. No way at 6ft would I ride a 54cm.

Another vote for Bondhus. They fit tighter than others I have tried and micrometer confirms they are bang on the right size. Cheaper ones are often fractions of a mm off which makes a big difference on 2 or 2.5mm bolts.

Sadly I have next Friday booked. I dont mind the odd shower but it looks terrible next week.

I have to skip the bits were he does bike building on his drive and is resting brand new FOX 40s on the tarmac whilst hammering the crowns on. Otherwise a talented rider, but like Deakin a bit too much Oi Oi going on.

I have no doubt it is a fine bike and I ride SC MTBs so I appreciate the design and look of their products (always get secondhand tho). However I cannot help but think it is poor value for money when I just bought a Space Chicken with SRAM Force for £1500, and they want £3500 for one with Rival. It is also not a bike I have seen featured in any gravel bike reviews or articles so seems a bit off the radar in that particular world.

27.5 seatpost according to the options.

Early days but did 25 miles yesterday on some Vittoria Revolution G+ 38c; wet roads, leaves, gravel, mud, puddles etc and they felt pretty grippy and yet still zippy on the road.

Broken elbow in May, done the odd gentle ride here and there but at the moment that results in it all tightening up and losing range movement for a week or so afterwards.

Had BPW vouchers for christmas last year which I have been unable to use. So have booked end of Jan before the they expire so hopefully will be able to go and at the very least just roll down the blues.

I have used ‘Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black Touch up’ which chemically darkens the metal. It wont go totally black but near enough.

I currently have a Bronson CC v2 having upgraded from a Blur LTC. I have previously owned a Nomad v1 and an original V10. I normally try to pickup s/h frames and move over as much as I can. Blur to Bronson was however a complete new bike in parts, but still cheaper than a new bike.

Visually I have always liked their form and design which is an aspect of the ownership experience for me (if it looks right etc…). The same way I would not buy a car that I didnt like the look of no matter how well it performed, I could never get past that.

Ride wise I am probably the sort of person that just adapts to what I am given so I am unable to quantify subtle characteristics, but certainly the geo on the Bronson is far more comfortable than previous gens which were pretty short in reach dept. Otherwise I have noticed general improvements along the way and what I have now is pretty near perfect. Probably as much to do with shock technology as anything else.

I do research other makes and own a Specialized DH bike, so I am not advise to trying other things. But I always seem to come back to SC. My riding buddy thinks they are bland and prefers dayglo colour ways, but horses for courses.

Coincidentally I do drive an Audi and ride the Surrey Hills, but have no dealings with the implied shop. Not that I wouldn’t, I just don’t buy new ones. And as to whether my riding abilities deserve such a bike all can say is I see people much better than me and also much worse.

I assume you mean the first step of the procedure which is to open the clips on both syringes and push fluid from the caliper up into the syringe in the lever?

Not sure if it effected the RSC as much as others, but the pistons in guide levers are well known to expand and start sticking. So it is possible that it is not returning fully and the port back into the reservoir is still closed.

Did the lever spring back in normal use before starting or was it sluggish?

I find ERG mode easier as you don’t have to constantly make minor adjustment to hold the required power level or ride in a slighly non optimal cadence. Bumped up the FTP on the smart trainer for the same perceived effort when I switched.

You can just put you head down and keep the pedals turning at whatever cadence you want with ERG.

I was up there yesterday and was just glad the weather was decent for a change!

But in regards to the trails the new stuff that had been opened did feel a bit unfinished/green. Watts Occuring is a bit stuck out on its own and seemed harder than the lower blacks to me, perhaps due to current loose surface. The new blues had a weird draggy sand surface that was not great, but again probably needs a few weeks being ridden in.

Not being one for the proper blacks from the top, the choice was limited particularly as Wibby W was closed in the afternoon. Ended up just rolling down Sixapod/Loco each time as I don’t like the uphill bit in VV!

The buy it now link in their description takes you outside eBay.

I hope it is all done by half term as I was planning a ride after BPW the day before.

How busy does it get at weekends? I have never been before.

I bought mine new attached the post and noticed it was slow even before I shortened the hose (1sec to return). I think it is temp related as it did speed up for a while but is sluggish at the moment in a 1deg shed.

I bought a set of Roval Taverse 29mm boost XD and put them on my Bronson v2 no problems.

I had a 30 and it popped off the mount on my road bike on a descent and was lost despite an hour looking. Got a 800 now

Often thought that myself, but to me non Hope rotors just look… cheap. I am sure they work the same, but the Hopes look ace even the plain stainless steel ones which I have.

Yes, XX1, X01 and GX are all interchangable.

XX1 and X01 are very similar mind you. Cassette and chain are the same bar the gold coating. XX1 mech has a carbon cage and the cranks are hollow as opposed to X01 which are foam filled for strength.

I would think unless they are leaking then if it aint broke etc.. You could pop the pistons out the levers and lube with some dot grease if you want to do something.

I cannot say I have ever used the guidance arrow and just follow the track on the map. Occasionally it will buzz off course if it loses GPS under trees or if the map accuracy differs from reality.

Normally upload directly to Strava by navigating to the activities folder on the Garmin via Stravas web ui uploader.

Admittedly it did die completely last weekend and took many attempts to restart it back at home, so maybe on the way out.

Sorry I wasnt quite sure what you were saying but a washer between the bolt head and the caliper is normal, but not between the caliper and the mount. Unless of course you are trying to use a 183 disc with a 180 mount and need a washer to space it out which is what I am doing :-)

IS to post rear 160 is an F mount with the caliper directly on the adaptor with no washers. J mount is for the front 183 so is probably raising the caliper 1.5mm too high.