Seeing as you’ve tried Windwave, have you thought of trying TFTuned? They’re a helpful bunch, I bet they’d supply an o-ring and offer some advice.

That’s more than likely a new wheel or hub and rebuild I’m afraid.

In something like this, like surfers use:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0011U1U8E/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=569136327&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0083RW7OY&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=1HH1220CHKS1Z6BTGDGB

Combo padlock that goes under the car somewhere.

I have the ARC 30 on PRO II EVO hubs. The extra width (30mm internal compared to 25mm on the DT) does make them more stable around corners. I feel significantly less tyre roll, it’s like riding with a DH casing tyre when you’re on a normal thin walled kevlar. Of course the extra width does come with an increased chance of banging them on rocks but mine seem to be solid enough so far. They’re also not silly wide like the Ibis or Light-Bicycle ones that would be even more prone to bashing. As a bonus the ARC 30 mounts a tubeless Schwalbe with 2 wraps of Stan’s tape (for width) and a track pump. It’s totally hassle free, so much so that I change tyres without fear of faff!

Pros:
Very predictable. Really, really predictable.
Rolls well for a big tyre
Good in everything but mud, excellent all-rounder. I use a Magic Mary now when it’s wet.

Cons:
Not quite as grippy at full lean as some, I don’t think this is a bad thing as sliding at little is fun if controlled, and it is controlled.
Wear can be bad on some surfaces. Again, not where I ride, they seem to be fine here.

Depends what you want to ride, a 5010 is probably not targeted at people that like steep, tech trails. Those are who benefit from the longer from centre and slacker head angles. Although, try telling that to Ratboy and Peaty who appear to have no problems riding their 5010s rather rapidly.

I think they’re horrendously short, the XL is too short IMO and I’m only 178cm. But it’s also way too tall for me. I would’t buy one, but a mate has exactly that (XL 5010) and couldn’t be more pleased.

You know what you’re getting when you go to Llandegla, it’s a giant BMX track. It’s fun, it’s low stress and it has a great cafe. It’s not for everyone and it’s not for every ride, but once or twice a year I think it’s great. That last switch-backed climb is a bit of a one though.

Same experience here. Had XT, they died. Bought SLX, no difference.

Ive got a 77 designs one and their little bash guard as do 4 of my mates. It seems to work well, although I lost my chain at the ArdRock still! I think it was back pedalling a quarter turn through rough bits. I was setting up for a corner in those woods on the first stage with all the big rocks hidden under soft dirt. No top-only guide will stop that but it was a shame.

That £200 is the deposit, there’s another £200 to pay once they’ve got them. It tricked me for a minute too.

Didn’t like the Saints – too small

Burgtec penthouse are a great shape but had too much grip for me. I kept placing my feet slightly wrong then not being able to move them.

Hope F20 seem the perfect shape for me and have decent grip but not amazing. They do some longer pins though so I’m gonna try them next.

Borrow some from mates until you find the right ones.

Noah, I suspect yours is chain line, my 1170 chain doesn’t drop, it did ride over between down shifts before engaging with an old fashioned clunk. But as its worn in its stopped this.

Yeah, it’s definitely chain line. It does seem a shame that brand new kit on a new bike doesn’t play nicely without aftermarket mods though eh. The SRAM chain helped a bit.

I have the backpedal ‘issues’ and am running a full XT M8000 drive chain on a new bike. I changed the chain from the supplied Ultegra to a SRAM PC1170 and noticed some improvement, it only drops down one gear when back pedalling now. As it wears in it seems to improve. The chain line is terrible, I’ve moved BB spacers and fiddled with B-tension to no avail. I need to find some spacers for those ‘male’ only chainring bolts.

Agreed about the vague shifter feeling, I’m not much of a fan of it either.

One on the bars and one on the lid for me. Where I ride just a bar mounted light is no good as it’s so tight and twisty.

Same for me. I currently use the better on on my helmet so I can see what’s coming but the battery annoys me. I’ll give Exposure a try. The Diablo looks like the one, although I’m sure the Joystick would probably suffice.

Are people mounting these on helmets or bars? I’ve found mounting a battery on the back of a helmet a bit annoying. Is there a better alternative? Running a cord to a pocket? Or do I need to pony up for an Exposure?

A second vote for the Pitt Cue rub and sauce, well worth the effort. and you’ll want a lot longer than just the morning to make proper pulled pork. A thermometer helps judge when ready.

https://www.thecaterer.com/articles/349708/recipe-of-the-week-pulled-pork-shoulder

Another vote for Assos.

Mine likes fruit too. He seems to love figs but thankfully hasn’t realised that they grow well within reach on the fig tree.

Dog are no different from us, more in than out and they get fat. Let the dog run, take it somewhere quiet if you’re scared of other dogs. Or just feed it less, it’s not hard.

You can get them to work. It’s a bit of faff though. If using a silver adjuster with a stealth you can get more fluid into it by taking out the staple that holds the button in place, removing the button, adding a few drops of fluid directly then replacing it. Mine works fine after this, but I accept bleeding it may cause problems and mean I have to do it again.

So, it turns out my BB spacer was already on the non-drive side. I tried fiddling with the limits and cable tension to no avail. I guess a SRAM chain is next then!

It seems a bit of a shame that brand new XT on a new frame isn’t compatible. I should really go back to SRAM.

If you like the shorter travel bikes, look at the Transition Scout. It’s a straight up Horst 4-bar though so has plenty of bearings to wear out! It is Canadian though, I hear they have mud there. I bought mine after a test ride and I’m dead pleased. I’m riding faster on it than any other bike I’ve had, which I think is due to the increased confidence the longer front centre brings, but who knows. It’s got 125mm travel and is built solidly. It pedals fine, though not as well as the Turner, and descends superbly.

I’m no engineer, but don’t needle bearings in pivots have a reputation for wearing a groove due to the small repetitive movements rather than full rotation?

Thanks, Trout! Awesome marshals all round really.

Great atmosphere at the race. I loved that fact that there were no start times or transfer times, it made it seem like a fun ride with your mates and other like-minded people rather than a race. Got 24th in masters with a dropped and tangled chain on stage 1, pretty happy with that. Will be back next year, well worth the 5 hour drive!

Yes, mine works fine. You can use a plastic binder and cut it up if you don’t fancy spending £9.

All good points in the past, but technology has come on a fair way. New air shocks with bigger negative springs mean they actually work over small bumps and the ability to add volume reduction spacers to increase ramp up is great and genuinely works. The same applies to forks, you can now change travel and spring curves at home with only a few tools. As a previously firm coil stalwart I’ve changed my opinion after riding 2015 and 2016 air sprung forks and shocks. They’re not perfect and still don’t quite meet coil standards but for me they’re so close it doesn’t matter. Having tuning possibilities that are even easier than coil is a huge factor.

As far as tubeless goes, you just need to run it with nice wide rims and use tyres with decent enough sidewalls. Get the right kit and the kit works well together.

Regarding the original point about no suitable bikes, if you want a low service interval bike that will last and has a coil shock I’m sure Orange bikes would supply you with a Five and a Cane Creek Double Barrel happily. Or try a Turner, the bushings last years if well maintained (well, mine certainly did). Both lovely handmade bikes with sensible angles and sensible travel.

Same problems here. New full M8000 set up with the Ultegra chain and short (425mm) chainstays. Pretty frustrating! I’m gonna try and move the upper limit screw in a touch and swap the BB spacer to the non-drive as suggested above.

Without meaning to sound like an arse, and realising that this isn’t answering your question really, asking this is a bit like asking “what full sus bike shall I buy for £250?”.

You’ll get a much better espresso with a secondhand Gaggia and reasonable burr grinder at that money. Ignore me if you favour convenience over flavour, that’s not my call to make, and I don’t mean to be rude.

Finding them slow here. Ordered Monday and the goods haven’t arrived yet.

I bit the bullet and got TomTom Western Europe. It’s taken me round Majorca, France, Belgium and Italy over the last 5 years with no bother. It also knows the speed cameras!

Keep hearing good things about Madeira at that time of year. So much so that we’re going out in the first week of October with ‘Freeride Madeira’. I’m pretty sure they cater for DH.

11″ air and a separate screen left on my desk here. Great combo. Fits in my camelback where the bladder would normally go. Battery lasts most of a day for me.

You get used to the small screen, run all the apps full screen and use the four finger swipe to flick between them like an iPad. I like the portability more than the bigger screen. 128gb is plenty if you use Spotify and have somewhere else like an external drive for photos IMO.

Ha. I’ll see you there, I’ll bring a flask of tea.

Thanks for the advice all. Might sneak a spare tyre into the van and decide when I get there. I’m not planning on winning either, more finishing, especially after what sounds like a good Sat night.

Hmm, might look at grabbing a high roller 2 then. I’ve never had Specialized tyres.

No arsenal jaffejoffer, I’m new to this 650b lark and have only the HDs. The 26 arsenal was donated to someone more sensible that didn’t buy a new bike. I was thinking of adding a Rock Razor and Magic Mary though, maybe with supergravity sidewalls.

Are the snakeskin sidewalls that bad on rocks? I’ve run HDs on and off for 2 years and only torn one (which was 2 years old!).

Really looking forward to this! What’s the tyre of choice if it rains? I’m a soft southerner, we have clay and mud not rocks here. I usually run Hans Dampfs.

“If you are tall it takes longer for blood to reach the brain – so you feel faint more quickly.”

No. Just no. Really. There’s probably an inch or two further to go, people are usually in proportion. Blood doesn’t travel slowly, there’s a reason it squirts out of arterial injuries.

http://www.stif.co.uk/mtb/product/ks-crux-integra-dropper-seatpost-100mm/13224

You’ll probably need to get the drill out though…!

As cchris2lou says, you have air and oil mixing in the post. It needs a service. You can buy an O ring kit for about £6-7, the oil height tool and IFP tool are also about a fiver. You’ll need some soft jaws for your vice and some replacement oil. There’s a full guide from SRAM on youtube. Follow the instructions, go a bit wrong then do it again and you’ll get it right! It’ll probably cost you £20-40 depending on how tool happy you get. It’s the same as a shock or fork, it needs some attention every once in a while.

Just been through this myself, I went for the Transition Scout with a Fox 36 reduced to 150mm travel. It’s a great bike, long, fast, stable but with really short chain stays so it’s still nimble around the tighter corners. It’s pretty hard to look past the Canyons and YTs for £2k though. I went with the Scout as I could test ride it first and buy it from a real shop. I don’t think you can go far wrong with any of the new Enduro bikes from Specialized, Trek, Orange, Transition etc, they’re all great.

I’m riding Easton ARC 30 rims which are a 34mm external width and 30m internal. They’re nice and light, build up well and seem strong so far, although they are £70-80 each.

Stan’s with about a foot of overlap. You don’t have to worry about the air leaking under the valve if you don’t cut a full hole. Just get a scalpel or craft knife and make a cross shape once the tape is fitted, shove the valve through that and do it up tight.

It’s not modern, Santa Cruz are short bikes. When I last looked at them the reach seems to be around a size smaller than the bike is advertised. My L Transition has a longer reach than my mate’s XL 5010. It’s not wrong, it just whatever you prefer. Same with the stem, my opinion from my experience is that anything over 60mm is too long and 100mm would be barge like in handling. But again, that’s my opinion.

Definitely go for the wider bars, moving your hand further apart will move you forwards quite a bit.