I was gonna say, most frames use alu bolts if they’re a big size, Spesh and Trek definitely do.

It’ll be fine, there’s nowhere on a bike I wouldn’t use ti bolts.

As for a supplier, try Pro Bolt [/url]

Probably CRC, they seem to do a fair bit of Goodridge stuff, I got mine trade through work, so I couldn’t comment :-)

Check brakes (alignment, pads, lever feel- but not bleed), check cables and replace as necessary, true wheels, bolt check, check over transmission (maybe not replace in standard service).

Wouldn’t include:
-bleeding brakes
-servicing forks/shocks
-replacing transmission (possibly, depends on bike)
-hub services
-pivot bearing changes

That’s what we do anyway.

I ran Goodridge hoses on Juicy Ultimates, certainly not something I’d bother with again. Not saying it didn’t improve the brake, but it’s certainly not worthwhile IMO, and not something I’d even consider doing to a brake like the Juicy 3. Build the Oros.

Quiet A and B roads, if you’d said ‘busy A & B’ or quiet lanes, it may be different, but I’d stick to the main roads.

I love riding my bike, end of. I don’t mind fettling the it when it’s needed, but it doesn’t count as entertainment.

Yes, I’m with SFB, fiddling is necessary, and doesn’t bother me, but isn’t really entertainment per se.

I doubt it performs that much better.

Ie you’ve never used it. I like my Golf, people who buy Ferraris are cocks, I doubt they’re that much better.

Again, if you don’t have the money, fine, don’t buy it, if you do and you want to spend it on that, go nuts, it’s not rocket science! Why do people have to justify their purchases to a bunch of morons on here who’ve never used it, but know that it’s not a worthwhile purchase?

I’ll wager that Merlin/CRC are only doing them at that price as they have residual stock at the old price. Just wait a month, I bet their prices go sky high. Smaller shops won’t hold stock of 100 XTR chainsets, so have to up the prices much more quickly.

No one’s screwing anyone over, if you don’t want to pay it, get over it and buy something else, but not Race Face Next Carbons, as they’re now £495, and Truvativ Noirs are not much less!

And… M975 refers to disc brake components, where M970 is v-brake. So BR-M970 is the v-brake, and BR-M975 is the disc brake, same with the hubs. There’s certainly no M975 chainset at the moment.

By next week Deore will probably be 3 times as expensive as Middleburn at this rate!

Why not just learn to remove tyres without them…

What’s wrong with ceramic bearings?

Guessing they’re from the same place as xander, Victory Graphix IIRC.

A friend of mine was mugged for his (formerly my!) Titus Racer-X in Lordswood in the last year or 2, dunno if that’s the one you’re talking about, sounds like a lovely place!

Are you constantly watering the new course to ensure victory in the next race!?

Aphex, no one said there was a problem with carbon, just to avoid GT Carbon bikes, and get a Scott instead. A race hardtail designed for 120mm forks? Slightly odd that one…

‘Think bike shop is unlikely to have a record of the serial number, manufacturer may be able to help out though’

We keep details of all transactions still, if you bought your bike from us after since 1997 we can tell you when, how much and exactly what, certainly worth a try!

The manufacturer are far less likely to be able to help, at best they’ll know the frame numbers sent to the dealer, but how do they attribute a bike to you?

They’re crap tyres, they’re just very thin, so they cut through the gloop.

If you want a good tyre for those conditions get some Schwalbe Black Shark Mud 1.5″, they actually have a tread pattern that works! The only thing to use at Mayhem/SITS etc in the wet!

Just to pick up on my original comment, I said UST’s heavier if you normally use light weight tyres. Not if you use bog standard Mountain Kings (for example).

I can’t be arsed to read the rest of this thread. Tubeless is awesome, I had some of the first Crossmax UST into the country in 2001 and haven’t looked back since, if you care about weight, don’t use UST, if you don’t, and you want the most versatile system, use UST.

But USTs heavy if you normally use light tyres. The trouble you’ll have is that SLRs and XTR wheels are designed to be run with UST tyres, so the profile of the rim is such that it’ll be a total bitch to get a non tubeless tyre to inflate properly. For convenience, I’d probably go UST, if you’re really bothered about weight you shouldn’t have bought SLRs or XTR wheels anyway :-)

Minoura Vergo

I dunno where you get the road cassette thing from, Ultegra 6500 and Dura Ace 7700 both have sprockets on alu spiders, like XT and XTR do on the MTB. Cheap cassettes have individual sprockets, decent ones have a carrier.

It’ll depend on some things actually, you may find you rip the mech in half when you go big/big, or it’ll be slack in small/small. If you can live with the risk that’ll happen then it will be fine!

I’ve also got some Controle XC SL, and they do seem good. Even the QR ones have a very large end cap, which mates with a large surface area on the dropouts of Spesh or 2009 Rock Shox forks to give a really stiff interface.

‘Older designs are often superior, maybe Shimano will bring back an internal BB design in next years XTR groupset. Whatever happened to OctaLink?’

I used to kill XTR Octalink B/Bs far quicker than HT2, I don’t know what you people do to them! They won’t revert though, XT HT2 weighs less than XTR M952 and an Octalink B/B, without a doubt it’s backwards progression! The XTR B/Bs were also £50, with no other choices. Methinks there’s a degree of viewing things through rose tinted spectacles, give me HT2 anyday…

Although I’ve now got BB30, which based on a few friends bikes, is no better than ISIS!

Who’s Liz Hatch? Assume she was ok save for some nice road rash!?

My male housemate at uni used to use a roll a day, he used about 10 sheets after a p1ss, he was an idiot!

Presumably you’re aware that there’s something like 25 rivets to drill and replace? That’s almost certainly going to add weight to a cassette that already weighs more than XT. Then there’s the fact the TiN works far far better on ti cassettes, not steel.

Sadly we don’t share the view that it’ll look good either, but each to his own, good luck!

I’d sell mine actually, they’re a little big baggy to seal on my Roval wheels. £40 the pair, in fact I’m gonna put them up there now!

More fireroad is good, that was my criticism of the last event. See you’ve sorted the start times too, which was my other issue, there’s always gonna be some super fast people in the 2hr cat, and some plodders in 4 or 6hr, should be spot on this year then!

Just need my middle ring not to decide to destroy itself!

£30 each at the moment, not too bad.

Possibly, but why bother?!

Mud Xs are a fantastic tyre in the slop, but they’re not very fast.

Nics roll much faster, but aren’t as grippy in the mud.

Some of the SRAM ones can be dismantled yes, there are some tiny allen key bolts on the back, same with cheaper Shimano ones. You can’t dismantle LX M580/XT/XTR though, again, they’re riveted to the spider.

I can imagine you’d actually rub a hole through the crank arm if you weren’t careful!

Clicky

Not something I’ve seen the point of personally. Ti nitride is a low friction coating, so yes it’ll probably stay cleaner, but it’ll cost a fortune, and won’t stop your cassette getting eroded by the grit and crap from your chain.

And no, I don’t think you can remove the sprockets from the alu carrier, they’re riveted on. Chap on Weight Weenies does full titanium, XTR copy cassettes with a TiN coating for c£160 I think.

You don’t have it yet, theoretical purchases don’t count. ;-)

Mine’s better anyway, because it actually gets used, not just photographed and polished!

BB30[/url]

It’s basically a threadless BB standard, press fit bearings, narrower q-factor, less weight, bigger axle/bearings for stiffer cranks and better longevity.

3 rings!? Who needs 3, pah!

It was actually meant (partly) as a helpful pointer, I think a lot of people only look at the classifieds rather than the forum.

A friend of mine’s just got one of these frames to build for the TransAlp. It came in at 1020g, which is seriously impressive for that money.

From what I understand the Trans Rockies is more technical, so I’d use a very light FS, something like my Epic, with some very light wheels and bits. Could get it to 20lbs without too much faff!

Yeah just put it through the washing machine, it’ll be fine! Imagine what 4 half eaten sachets do to a jersey after a summers race!