Thanks for the recommendations peoples, just ordered a pair of the Salomon XA Pro 3D GTX, the Five Tens look like very good shoes but I prefer the styling of the Salomons. Cheers!

Actually I don’t think this is true though they are very close, see here: http://www.thebikelane.com.au/2015/06/2015-road-groupset-weights/

Thanks for the thoughts peoples, seems 180 front 160 rear is the way to go, cheers.

I’ve got a 500g pot each of copper and lithium grease, the copper gets used on threads and the lithium on anything that needs to move/spin. The brand I’ve got is Carlube though I don’t think it matters too much.

If you’re looking for low weight good brakes my recommendation would be Formula R1s, faultless performance and one of the lowest weight out there. Can often be had for a reasonable price second hand as well.

As Nemesis says I’d go with option 2 and just tighten the DS, are you sure that’s the recommended max anyway? Sounds a bit low to me, though it may just be the particular spokes you’re using.

I’ve got an Endura MTR Emergency Shell which is very nice, 135g and like the others packs down to a Coke can size. Waterproofing is good and it’s even lined, if thinly.

Just to add to the above I’ve got a set of DT 140s and they’re noticeable better than equivalent Foxs, plusher and stiffer while being lighter. I got mine from RCZ in Luxembourg (delivery was fast no problems) at a good discount, and they’re going even cheaper now: http://www.rczbikeshop.co.uk/uk/dt-swiss-2014-fork-xmm-120-one-piece-mag-27-5-single-shot-axle-15mm-white-fxmmebebfdaw49303s.html

Also I’d say 60PSI is a bit high to be leaving it at in my opinion, at least first of all while the sealant is still getting into place, with that kind of pressure it might well just be pushing the sealant out before it gets a chance to plug the gaps. Pump it to that to get the beads seated sure, but then I’d recommend dropping it to 35-40ish.

As Liftman says put a tube in see if that seats it, with a tube in you can “massage” the tyre a bit which can help it click into place. If this works then endeavour to only unseat one bead when removing the tube, then try again tubeless and hopefully you’ll be there.

Yes sorry was having trouble uploading a pic from my phone, anyway thanks for that very helpful, I couldn’t think what it would be called. Now that I know the name I’ve found an exact replacement kit from a Halo Supadrive hub, as it’s the same freehub system just a different shell. Cheers mate.

Usually the freehub shouldn’t be able to just come out of the hub, there should be an end cap or similar holding it on (usually). Anything rattling around in the box? Or on the end of the freehub?

As for fitting the freehub back into the hub, it should just be a case of push and click, but you may have to manipulate the pawls so that they’ll mesh with the drive ring.

I can’t answer all your questions completely, but I currently have an E13 30mm axle crankset setup in my 73mm BSA frame with a RaceFace Cinch bottom bracket, and it all works without any bodging etc. The bottom bracket itself seems perfectly fine and definitely serviceable, as it uses common size bearings which you can replace, which I did with some cheap ceramics. But if you don’t get on with the RaceFace BB you should be able to swap out for a different brand, the only thing to be wary of is that the BBs can vary slightly in width between makes, and thus you need to make sure that your crank is long enough to make it through (oo-er). All in all I’d say go with the Turbines, I’ve heard good things about them and I reckon you’ll definitely be able to get something to work even if you end up not liking the RaceFace BB.

Good idea for a thread, cheers STW.

I’d say Nobby Nic, good grip, low rolling resistance and quite light, all you could want really.

I’ve got Liteskin Thunder Burts set up tubeless and they sure are fast, the grip is fine for cornering as you’re lent over and the side knobs really dig in, the only trouble is braking when the bike is stood up and that semi slick centre not offering a lot of bite.

@mattyfex: Smaller volume tyres will have higher rolling resistance compared to a large volume one when at the same pressure, as the smaller one will deform more under the same weight (there’s simply less air to support said weight). The smaller volume tyre thus needs to be at a higher pressure for a fair comparison. As far as I know smaller tyres do typically offer lower rolling resistance when set up properly.

I’m in with the Thunder Burt crowd, 27.5 x 2.1 Liteskins front and rear, quoted 425g each, came up as 415g and 390g so the lighter one went on the rear. Actually a bit of a pain it being under weight as it kept leaking when set up tubeless. Apart from that though great tyres, lovely and fast and plenty of cornering grip. The only time I find them lacking is when braking while the bike is still stood up, as it’s still on the semi slick part of the tyre. I just need to back it into the corners a bit more I suppose 😉

You can find them on eBay for as little as £70ish, just put your above info into a search and you should get plenty of hits.

I’d agree with Tom, just do it up tight by hand but not go mad and you should be fine. It might be an idea to use a short Allen key (such as a multi tool) so as to reduce the risk of over torquing.

😀

I’m offended that you reduced my entire post to a single “etc”. I say you deserve your scaly stiction.

😉

My three quid fishing scales only vary by 5g when jiggled, not to get into a “who has the more accurate cheap scales” contest but that 15% variance does sound a bit extreme. Though something in the 21lb region sounds right for that bike.

As Catfish says they should have come with a specific tool for that purpose. It looks likes a replacement crank bolt but is shaped to loosen the arm from the interface.

DT Swiss here as well, great fork and I love the look. Nothing wrong with Fox but DT Swiss suspension just feels slightly more sophisticated to me, though that’s probably subjective.

While they are loud I wouldn’t say they’re clicky, rather they make a buzzing tone, I quite like it personally.

Bushings are usually some kind of low friction polymer, so that sounds right to me.

Another vote for WTB i25 here, great value for a solid rim.

I’d guess that it’s because the clutch has worn and is now slipping a little rather than moving linearly, so that whenever you’re getting pedal bob and thus chain growth it’s making said noise. Perhaps rather than loosening the clutch actually try tightening it a little bit, to try and counteract the wear.

As a side note I’ve just got a clutch mech and didn’t realise what a difference to shifting it would make when it’s on, obvious in hindsight I suppose but it doesn’t exactly engender me to running with it on, I like my smooth shifting. Good before a “gnar” run though.

RaceFace Turbines are pretty light and don’t cost a bomb, otherwise there are always Shimano XTs, brilliant value for money. I just got a set of E13 TRS which seem good and are pretty light, can be a bit pricy though unless you get them end of line.

I’d suggesting staying black as the others have said, my experience of white saddles and grips is that they look great new, but after a few rides not so much. Black stays looking fine no matter what.

I’ve got a MET Parabellum which ticks all the boxes, great lid.

Not an alternative but a shout out for the Endura MTR, it’s a great jacket, does everything it says on the tin and looks good doing it.

Alternative wise the Altura equivalent gets good reviews as well, can’t remember the name sorry.

Alligator Mini I-Link has a small liner, good stuff.

For a hardtail, this would be mine:
••••••••••
Frame and Forks
———-
OPEN One 29er Carbon Frame 850g
Lauf Trail Racer 29er 990g (with axle)
Cane Creek AER Headset 46g
••••••••••
Wheels and Tyres
———-
Extralite HyperFront Hub 78g
Extralite HyperRear 2 Hub 161g
60x Pillar X-TRA Lite Ti Spokes and Nipples ~186g
Enve XC Tubular 29er Rims 28h front 32h rear pair 520g
Tune Skyline Spanner Rear QR 14g
2x Tufo XC2 Plus Tubular MTB Tire 29×2.0 1030g
••••••••••
Brakes
———-
KCNC X7
Complete both ends ~510g
••••••••••
Drivetrain
———-
Tune Blackfoot Cranks 340g
Raceface Narrow Wide 36t Chainring 50g
ACROS A-BB Press Fit Ceramic Bottom Bracket 87g
XTR 11 Speed Shifter 110g
XTR 11 Speed Rear Derailleur 220g
SRAM XX1 Cassette 260g
KMC X11SL DLC 243g
Alligator Mini iLink Gear Cable ~35g
••••••••••
Contact Points
———-
Extralite HyperSaddle MR65 65g
Tune Carbon Ti Seatpost 34.9 x 400mm 136g
Tune Strangle Skyline Seatclamp 34.9mm 5g
AX Lightness RIGID 100mm 31.8mm Stem 74g
AX Lightness HERA Flatbar 660mm 31.8mm 100g
KCNC Eva Foam Grips pair 10g
Crank Brothers Eggbeater 11 Ti MTB Pedals 174g
••••••••••
Total Bike Weight ~6300g

I can recommend the MET Parabellum, good lid and the GoPro mount works well (for a light in my case).

On a 1x setup, I don’t think the size of the front cog has an effect on mech cage length, as the cage is there to take up the slack between the extremes of the drivetrain, and as the front is fixed it doesn’t contribute to that. Medium is the correct answer though, as said it’ll even give you a bit extra so that you can fit a range extender cog if you want. If you go down that route there’s an alternative to the Rad cage as well, Lindatets/WolfTooth components make a “GoatLink” which replaces the link connecting the mech to the hanger, and it too sorts out the b-limit screw problem.

Well this has devolved quickly.

Personally, I’d go old school and time by primer fuse, the wait isn’t so tedious that way.

You can also buy then from r2bike in Germany, it’s a bit cheaper from there if memory serves me correctly. No worries about import duties either.

Is the chain hitting the mech in a particular gear or is it all of them?

Edit: Reading your info again, are there any spacers by the side of the jockey wheel? I.e. is the jockey wheel centered in the cage?