http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Tools_Index/Speedy_Ties/

It's my own design and will be made by Lynskey. Deposit paid yesterday. Woohoo. They're going to have to programme a CNC machine to make the dropouts, but once it's been done, it should be easy to make some more. . .

And yes EBB too.

Fork will now have straight tapered blades with segmented crown so blades are parallel to head tube. Also custom, by Waltworks.

I'll start a new thread when there's some pictures but I was so excited yesterday I couldn't help posting here.

any special reason why we have to email for details as opposed to a public announcement?

I'll add my 2 penny worth

I switched to spds 10 years ago because I bought a bike that had them and it was a choice of new pedals or new shoes. I never looked back. Yes there are times when I want flats but not often enough to switch back.

and a frame like this:-

You need a dropout like this:-

Me too. Frantic two cleaning the house in preparation for a viewing then two hours tootling round Wiltshire lanes. Back for lunch then as it was still nice went out for another hour. Bliss

I have.

In about 1980 I put an ad in the local paper asking for free bikes. I got loads of replys and collected a two gents bikes and a woman's frame. I put the biggest one at the front, the next in the middle and the woman's frame at the back. I cut the chain and seat stays off the front bike then sawed vertically through the head tube of the next frame. Repeat for back frame. To keep the frames in alignment, I got some 4×2 and laid out on a flat surface put the frames on top, put more 4×2 on top and weighed it all down with concrete blocks. G-clamped the frames together – the cut head tube butting up to the seat tube of the frame in front. Then I cut up an old garden swing and used the legs to connect the bottom brackets. Then I brazed the whole lot together using an arc welder with carbon rods.

For the drive train I used 10 speed front chainsets on the right hand side of every frame. From the front, the inner ring was connected to the inner ring on the middle frame and the outer ring of the middle frame was connected to the outer ring of the rear frame. The inner ring of the rear frame was connected to the rear hub. I used frame mounted (bodged) tensioners to keep the chains tight.

Rear rider had control of gears and rear brake! Driver only had steering and front brake.

The biggest problem was that it wasn't nearly stiff enough as I didn't have access to suitable tubing and probably because I brazed instead of welded. Frame flex eventually became terminal but not before I offer a lift home to a drunken mate on New Year's Eve failing to mention that we had to cycle home 7 miles on the Trandem.

No pics as only have film photo somewhere but it was good fun.

Good luck

Yebbut are they worth the extra dosh?

I found this in another place which seems pertinent:-

Alex W. said…

just for the record, as facts on dynamo hubs are rare here: the Novatec hub does indeed have roughly the same drag (measured in watts needed to turn the axle at a certain speed) as many other dynamos hub out there: about 6W at 20kmh and 8W at 30kmh. only the SON 20R is noticeably better (roughly 4W and 6W, respectively).

The big difference is when you cycle with the lights off: because the Novatec hub has its excess voltage inhibitor IN the hub and has to 'swallow' all that energy no longer being sent to the lights, you are using more power with the lights off: a whopping 9W at 30kmh. (ideally the resistance of bearings and seals in such a hub would be ca. .5W; The SON 20R is 1W).

for more info see Aktiv Radfahren, issue 1-2/09. there's a PDF summary of all this (in german . . .) but the charts are there too.

Rather than start new thread this seems a good place to ask. Is it possible to damage a xp-g light using a hub dynamo? Is the over voltage protection in the hub or the light?

Shouldn't a question like this be in the FAQ?

I've thought of some more:-

Ghetto tubeless
Square taper or ISIS

You can also use http://www.bikeforest.com/CAD/bcad.php# which will draw a pretty picture of your bike as well. The non-Pro version is free

Be careful if you buy it from Bestofferbuy.com I ordered a MTE SSC P7 – 5 mode from them and got a 1 mode (On/Off) torch and a charged with a US plug

Schwalbe Marathon Cross? 590g

http://www.alotofcoffee.co.uk/

They do organic and fairtrade too.

Very good beans

Very quick service

Granny Gear Guru

Harsh but true.

I heard a guy in a bike shop call a client's bike Sally. When I asked why, he said it was because it was fast but ugly!

Supplemintary question:-
How easy is it to fit full mudguards to the Pace/On-One/Nuke Proof carbon forks?

Schwalbe Marathon Cross work for me.

Still not as fugly as Thorn's fork with Vee brake calipers on the wrong side of the fork.

Don't use the 'Cool Camping' guides. I 've been to a few of their sites and they didn't live up to the descriptions in the books.
Try http://www.thehappycampers.co.uk/

I've got 100mm MX Comps on mine and they're fine

Us at Glastonbury 2005. Mrs Nicknoxx is wearing her wedding dress after tie-dyeing it.

Oh, and the dress was ebayed after the festival for further use.

Me. Can't sleep so got up for crackers and chamomile tea.

Top event. WCA looked a bit stressed when we arrived on Friday, but everything was superb. Location, weather, people, atmosphere all fantastic. The whole family had a great time at are all ready to go back next year.

thepurist – Member
If he's confident that he's competent and will comply with the latest regs then he can submit plans to the local authority, do it himself and get the building inspector in to certify it when he's done.

While build inspectors are legally requires to do this, in reality they don't have the skills so will demand you get a certificate from a qualified spark before signing off a new installation.

Mrs Nicknoxx and I might be up for that but it would have to be the weekend of 15th 16th August as all others are booked. Don’t forget the Big Bike Bash on the 22nd.

Uni is very annoying but slightly more acceptable than ‘Varsity

I went to a University (and it wasn’t a Poly either)

My personal old man complaint is the misuse to the word Random.

I had a similar noise….. turned out to be the pedals

I’ve got a Kona A with a Rohloff. The dropout had to be specially machined. There’s a disc braked Kona A on ebay now for a very reasonable £320 ‘buy it now’

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=250440558509

Niner bikes have a new EBB that has been getting good reviews.

I’ve owned several. I still love them but don’t currently own one.

All Landrovers will cost a lot to run:- Money or time, your choice

Older ones (60’s and 70’s) are slow but have a real charm when you drive them

More modern ones (80’s 90’s) are much more civilised

I’ve never owned a recent one but friends Disco’s are like modern cars but will still cost a fortune to run.

Buy one. Drive it till your an addict or fed up. Restore it or sell it. You won’t regret it. (No guarantees given or implied)

Another vote for:-

http://www.orangebikes.co.uk/main/images06/F8RIGID_600.jpg