Thank you so much !!!!

I don’t have a stand so it may take a little more time but will give it a go !!

Worthing, West Sussex

Thanks again – I have now been tinkering with cable tension for 45 mn but I can’t get it right as depending on the tension it makes the other problem start again (the limits, which I thought I had sorted) – is that normal in itself ?

Really pissed off now as it’s sunday and I shouldn’t spend hours doing that – cycling is my passion but this really makes me want to do more track days instead (my other passion) as things are so much simpler there despite the massively more complex machines involved.

Any advice would help but it sounds like a shop visit – I don’t trust my local shop despite it having a good rep as they normally have poor attention to fine tuning. Or maybe my expectation of my entire range of 10 gears working on a recent full Shimano XT/SLX stuff all working is too high ?

Cheers !! Some progress – I now know that the bottom screw adjusts the big sprocket limit and the top one the small sprocket.

Armed with that I can now shift to the smallest cog and the chain doesn’t drop in the spokes anymore.

BUT, now when I shift one gear from the smallest sprocket up it shifts two gear – and conversely, when in the biggest cog I need to shift twice for the mech to go down one gear… How do I fix that ? Is that because of cable tension ? Too much ? Not enough ?

Really depends on age and future need for the cash – I am in my late 40’s so for me pension is a better bet as you get a 20%/40% uplift straight away. And that doesn’t prevent from this being invested in shares.

The only non-positive feedback I got as a seller was from a bloke who I sold a Crumpler XL photography bag. He found it too small for a XL. I tried to explain that XL was the sizing the manufacturer chose to call it for that particular size and that was quite subjective and really nothing to do with me. He couldn’t comprehend. You’ll always find someone more stupid than you.

OP, I run 1×10 with 11-36 on a 32 ring. The 26′ wheels give me a best climbing ratio of 0.89 and a max speed of 44km/h at 120 cadence.

I have noticed 2 things : any prolonged need for a lower gear and I am better off walking. Any prolonged need for a higher gear and that’s not MTB anymore.

I wouldn’t trade the loss of the front mech for any “improvement”.

Having said that. I’ll probably go for a x11 11-40 when the cassette is worn out, in case I put on weight or get too old.

PS : I have no issues with anyone preferring more rings.

I just wondered is the Uberbike XL requires any mod to the braking system to accomodate the extra thickness ? As in drain some fluid or something. I am not mechanically gifted.

We’re talking about recent price rises for similar products.

I think RS may have tidied up their distribution a bit. OE forks clearly intended for production lines used to be available at huge discounts from the likes of On-one etc… Not anymore though as it seems to be retail only stuff now. If that is the case then that will also help prop up price levels.

Honda are dangerously close to reproduce the Toyota thing. I wonder if engineering arrogance is playing a part here too ?

Good to see Palmer so close to the Red Bull again although the RB clearly doesn’t have all of its best aero bits on yet. Next week will tell us more, particularly if Renault turn the wick up a bit…

Lancia 037 of course…although that’s the least expected answer to the question I guess as people assume that Group B had to be 4wd…

you can see the bar bending!

If they didn’t, they would probably snap.

The other aspect is solidity. I am heavy (92kgs) and I know there is no point my bike being under 11kgs with pedals and 2.35 tyres as bits start breaking at an alarming rate almost irrespective of their price ! Wheels in particular, can’t be under 1800g however perfectly built/balanced they are, although bog std MT66 are still alive after much abuse.

It’s a nice problem to have I guess!

Getting down to 85kgs would cost me a lot of money!

Not sure if relevant but I used a FSA BB30 Threaded Adapter a few years ago and still going strong.

Fair enough !! Not to mention placebo.

I use the Pace carbon paste – I am quite heavy and I have been running a 680mm Truvativ Noir riser made out of high modulus for a number of years 200g). I am not sure about the comfort thing, I reckon slightly thicker gloves might help more!

I ran a E82 125i (on 130i power) and could easily put a MTB at the back flat with just the front wheel off.

I am a loser and a hairdresser but I still got under 3:00 at Spa in a totally stock 3dr M135i manual on passive dampers. I couldn’t even cook the OE pads. An astonishing car for the money, further helped by M4 LCAs at £300 which gave 2 deg of neg camber and neutralise the handing.

If you value RWD and the engine behind the front axle, then those cars are for you. The next gen will probably be front drive and 4-pot so hurry, even if you cut hair for a living.

My feeling is that the reason she isn’t doing that is that she really does intend to use them as pawns, and would be quite happy to see them deported if she doesn’t get what she wants in other areas.

I agree – Brexit has put us in such a de facto weak negotiation position that she will use whatever she has, even at the risk of compromising the very values that makes Britain great. The irony is strong on that one.

On the flip side, I bought an almost new 120mm 15mm Reba SL a couple of years ago for just over £100 as it had a very short steerer tube, which just about fitted my set up (integrated headset on a 120mm head tube). I struggled to find a stem slim enough but got there in the end.

So everyone, feel free to carry on cutting your steerer tubes too short !!

I laughed at the video above – basically it’s clearly not for him if he’s going downhill at 50km/h off road or if he can’t afford the consumables due to increased wear or if he feels the need to back pedal at full pelt for extended periods.

Never had those issues over the past 8 years that I ride 1xXX

No it doesn’t have to be Schwalbe but I seem to invariably come accross them, like this one :

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/TYSCRRZF/schwalbe-rock-razor-tubless-ready-folding-tyre

26′

LOl, that’s what I am trying to avoid ! What about a pair of these in 2.25 at £24 (for 2) : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-rapid-rob-mtb-tyre-k-guard/rp-prod83180

Thanks again – I’ll try the current tyres then, sounds sensible – the idea was not to buy a set just for BPW but to carry on with them but I’ll just see what happens and will indeed increase pressure and have spare tubes and probably spare (old) tyres just in case.

It’s a small price to pay IMO – but a bit of wear and / or fine tuning will help anyway.
I have been riding 1xX for almost 8 years and it really is not for fashion. Don’t see the need for more than 1 ring off-road.

Never really understood this scheme – it looks very much like a tax payer subsidised way for cyclists to get cheaper bikes whether they ride to work or not. Not a big fan unless of course I have missed something. Somebody has to pay for the tax take shortfall, ie all of us.

I would lease whichever is the cheapest at the time, they’re all pretty much the same. We currently have a Tiguan TDI150 Match ed which is costing us just over £5,200 over 2 year and it’s brilliant. Atecas are about the same in 1.0t guise.

Thx for the feedback – gelert is quite right : it will be gentle blues and red, the long Terry’s Belly for instance sounds right up my trail.

So after all I might be OK with current 2.35 liteskin NN ?

In retrospect I realise I should have gone for SS version though.

Thanks for all the feedback guys – I think it was just nagging from the wife who got a bit emotional as it was my daughter who “spotted it” (whatever it was). They’ve been pestering me to get a routine health check for months anyway.
So I booked one for next week anyway. I haven’t seen a doctor for about 15 years…
I have never felt so fit on the bike as I have been gymming for a few months on interval training. But I take the argument that my legs might be too good for my breathing (I have been MTBing for 20 years+ on and off and I do believe in “muscle memory” effect).
The advice of a cool down is totally right, not sure why I felt the need to hammer it until the last yard…pretty stupid of me.
I do feel a bit wheezy with slight asthma obstruction so will monitor peak flow, I might have a cold.
The other factor might also be my gearing as I recently changed my 32 single ring for a 34 while still running the same 10-speed 12-34 cassette.

What’s a dropper ?

Cheers. The tyres are 575g each on the scales which is OK for a 2.1 I thought. They are quite grippy for “summer” use.

“jimjam – Member
Those frames are very prone to cracking. Keep an eye on the bb chainstay join and seat stay/seat tube.”

Ouch. Never heard of any. Do you have any stats or source ?

I did most of the build apart from BB adapter.

I didn’t like the original sticker location so changed things around. Both legs are symetrical sticker wise btw.

Now with custom fork stickers – how very sad.

Cheers br. The two ZEE mechs have the same length cage. It’s the capacity that varies.

Warpcow, it a Commy Supernormal. The chain is just about long enough on the biggest cog as it is. It is an unconventional shape frame+drop outs

b r – can you jog on please and carry playing with your ZEE cage ?

Is sourcing a longer B screw a potential solution. If someone with a bit less “humour” could kindly let me know ?

I am not understanding the roll eyes thing. Can you or can you not buy a longer B screw ? Genuine question.

I thought there was only one length cage ZEE mech ?

Sorry I didn’t mean chain growth I meant range.

Plenty there https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFB9BrtVCok

Check out Pont Du Gard (Unesco world heritage), should be able to ride on it even.

http://www.vttmania.com/circuits-vtt/gard/entre-pont-du-gard-et–garrigue-…-151.html