Left field option: Tesla Model 3 Performance? Only practical point letting it down is the saloon format for your dogs. 60 in 3.1s and £10 change from your £60k which will get you a few full charges on the right tariff!

Had mine a year now and still laugh like a lunatic when I bury the throttle. Silly quick.

@Daffy has nailed it. Right tool for the job rather than his and hers. At the start of lockdown we had ‘my’ Model 3 and ‘her’ 320i. Obviously not a representative period of time given I’ve worked exclusively from home for the whole time.. but we ended up selling the 3 series (which was fully kitted out with roof bars, towbar rack etc. for longer/bike trips) while we wait for an ID3 to arrive in June. We would always default to the EV for all journeys and the ICE just didn’t get used for months at a time.

Obviously I’m very lucky to be able to get an EV with a good working range for a reasonable price but even then I’m still a little dubious about going dual EV. For example Newcastle > Innerleithen and back is ~200 miles.. Model 3 shows 290 miles when charged to 100% and with a bike up top uses about 1.5 x distance.. so it’s just out of range. No superchargers on that route and fast chargers are more sparse than down south.. but it’ll be fine with a bit of forward planning.

Not sure where I’m going with this.. other than with 1 big ICE and a smaller city EV you’ll be fine. Charging network is improving all the time.

Fair play to Max, he nailed that. Amazing recovery drive from Lewis. I think Bottas is to blame for the big smash but agree the camera angles that caught it aren’t great.. However the best part of the race for me was:

“We’ve got a yellow flag”
“Mazepin’s in that area”

Howling 😂

Interesting, I wonder if a supercharger now and then might not be bad idea.. I might drive to the one a few miles up the road and give it a whirl. I’ve got a long journey (hopefully!) to Goodwood from Newcastle in a couple of months so be good to get the lay of the land with billing etc.

Thank you that’s really useful. I’m going to look into this balancing/calibration thing. My wife is doing a 70ish mile round trip tomorrow so could be a good opportunity to brim it tonight.

6-10 year working life is poor! I’ll try and watch the whole video later

Thanks all. The air temp doesn’t affect the main battery range displayed on the model 3. What worries me is that it lost a few miles over maybe 9-10 months but has now lost ~10 miles over the last couple of months. I’ve had no software updates in that time.

@ b.a.nana that’s useful be interesting to see what yours is displaying in mileage terms.

Maybe not “crazy” given this is Tesla we’re talking about.. but certainly not sensible!

Thanks for the link. It’s crazy that they’ve went against the grain with almost every other EV manufacturer. Ultimately it’s a lease car that’s going back in a couple of years but it’s frustrating that I’m seeing this reduction after looking after the battery.

Thank you for the responses all. Thing is, the main range display doesn’t take any of that into account. An estimated range is available in the “energy” screen but you can’t tell the car to display that on the main display. Which leads me to believe it’s pure battery degradation. I think I’m going to switch to % charge on the main display and use the estimated range in conjunction with the navigation when needed.

Update: Fitter came round earlier and removed the trim above the window to reveal a single very large piece of timber spanning the entire 3.5m. There is nothing in the upright post sections of the window coming up through the top of the unit and supporting the timber.

The fitter had spoken to a builder who had done one recently in the area and said he expected that’s what we would find. I wanted to see it for myself though. Thank you for the tips and advice above all – much appreciated.

Solid advice, thank you. Fitter is coming at 5pm today so I’ll be asking him to remove some trim and go from there. I’m pretty much the last house with the thick posts between the windows, some have bricked up the bottom half, put a small bay in, etc. I’m waiting for the bloke over the road to come back from work so I can badger him about it!

Yeah this is what really worries me, that there’s a couple of timber posts in the centre holding something up above them.. My neighbour over the road has had his done recently so I’m going to try and collar him and see if he can offer any insight.

The window is 3.5m wide. On closer inspection on the inside it looks like there is a timber spanning what would be the inner leaf at the top. Window fitter is coming back out this afternoon so I’m going to ask him to try and remove some trim/fascia and see if he can see anything. Thanks

Thank you for the responses all. I still can’t get the photos to work on my laptop although the second lot appear to be working when viewed on my phone.

My concern is that given the window is the full height of the room there is no inner (or outer) skin of bricks above the window so I’m not sure what is holding the roof up in that part of the room. I’m struggling to understand how I find the answer to this question without starting to smash bits of the house open to have a look..

**** images still aren’t showing on Chrome browser after using postimages hotlink for forums. FFS

Thank you for the responses all. I can see the pics when on the forum on my phone but not on my laptop.. FFS this site is a nightmare for posting pics. Will try again now.

Cheers @redmex
Aye it’s a strange old concept.. and the upstairs dormer rooms are baltic in the winter and boiling in the summer. Shockingly poorly insulated.. something which is also on the list.

I’m in the same position OP. I’ve just used whatever hand-me-downs are too knackered to wear for casual.. currently using a pair of Air Jordan something or others which aren’t too bad but thinking I should treat myself to something decent.

Sorry for the slight thread hijack, does anyone know how 5/10s compare to Nike fitting? (I’ve a fat/wide foot and high instep.. if that makes a difference) Cheers

The Halfords ones (if it’s the 6 pack for £12 ones) are foam and not hard plastic. I’ve had them down for a while but you couldn’t drag something heavy over them without ruining them. I would look elsewhere if you’re after something firm/hardwearing.

Watching with interest. I wear contacts so need clear geps for riding. I’m onto at least my 10th pair of Bolle from Screwfix so thinking it’s time to get something less disposable.

Has anyone tried the Oakley prism low light (or similar) type lenses?

“Mitsubishi Walloper” 🤣
Proper tickled me that

I find the more expensive and smaller old El Paso jars etc to be soggier and less potent. Best I’ve found are the Asda own jars for £1.20 – crunchy and fiery!

Happy new bike day! That looks absolutely tremendous. I got a YT Capra Pro end of 2019 and absolutely love it but it’s a ridiculously big/capable bike for a lot of stuff I do and I’d love an Izzo.. n+1 and all that but I’m still working on Finance Director (wife) approval.. I’ll have to resubmit the business case as I haven’t heard anything for a while.

How tall are you and what size did you go for? I’m bang in between sizes with YT and went XL on my 275 Capra.

Here it is with the original 60 inch bars pre hacksaw.. I can’t believe they spec and ship them like this! Absolutely ludicrous.. The Tesla own bars are basically like the Thule wingbar edge design I’ve had on a couple of cars which were already expensive at about £250.. the Tesla ones are another £200 on top of that. Absolute jokers

@pictonrod here you go. Pics post hacksaw.. and my first run out (~7 miles to the trail centre).

They fit to the bare roof and hook under the chrome trim. I was worried at first about the frameless windows but there’s no interference at all.

Because there’s no fixed mounting points it’s a bit of a pain getting them lined up and in the right place.. e.g. the front of the front tower has to be 102mm (!) from the leading edge of the glass roof.. pretty specific! And me being a reet fanny I spent a long time trying to get them perfect!

Also getting the towers the correct width is not easy.. first time round I had too much overlap onto the glass roof and I wasn’t comfortable with it.. I’ve already smashed the rear glass once and didn’t fancy doing it again!

Which brings me onto another point.. the glass roof is a blessing and a curse. Obviously you can see the bike to check it but also means you can see how much it flexes and moves up there.

I’ve bought Thule gear for donkeys but the Yakima kit feels well made. Sliding the T track carrier onto the bars was not as easy as I was hoping per the above, and I ended up having to take the T track bolts out of the carrier altogether and slide them in individually.. not the end of the world but I’ll not be taking the carrier off again for a bit of extra range.

Hope that’s helpful.

Thank you for all of the tips and advice all. I finally managed to get the bars mounted onto the car yesterday after cutting them. Really happy with the finish and you’d be hard pushed to notice unless you’re really looking for it. The correct hacksaw blade for the material really helped I think.

I used the bars to pickup some scaffold boards yesterday but have yet to mount/use the carriers. The Yakima rubber strips on top of the bars are quite clever in that they recess down into the bar so you can slide T-track accessories into them without cutting the rubber strip (like I had to on my old Thule wingbars). Which gives the option of quickly removing/installing the carriers to use just the bars (or if I’m going on a longer journey and worries about range).

@jsinglet I haven’t done a journey with the bike mounted yet and won’t be going any distance just yet but I’m expecting it to absolutely spank the range.. I’ll just have to keep my speed in check to manage the impact. I feel bad given how slippery Tesla have made the model 3 body shape and now I’m planning on strapping a big bike to the roof.. but sod it.. it’s got a big old battery and healthy range and if I need to go charger surfing on a longer trip then so be it! I actually don’t track energy consumption in any great detail at all but it’s all logged so no doubt I can access it and compare before the carrier to after.

Thanks again all, chopping them down was definitely the right thing to do.

@poly I’m pondering this question myself. I’m in the process of getting my Thule 598s on top of my Model 3. Once I finish cutting the ludicrously wide Yakima bars down to length..

My assumption is that it’s going to kill the range.. maybe 10-15% with the bars/carriers and up to 25% with two big enjuuuuuro bikes up top.. I’ll report back after I’ve done a trip with the new setup and whether real-time range projections update accordingly.

It’s weird since moving from ICE > EV my concern is now not the additional cost of fuel but the additional inconvenience of stopping to juice up on a longer journey! @5p/kwh for overnight charging, the Tesla must be doing an equivalent 150mpg compared to the 25mpg in my old ICE car with bikes on the roof..

Edit: Bike is non-e but still a pain in the arse to howk onto a car roof.

Thanks pyranha. The car is relatively low so they’re at an awful height! You’ve reassured me I’m not a lunatic for wanting to take a hacksaw to a brand new roof bar system

Thanks Dave, good point. On closer inspection there is a little half moon cutout that the end cap tab clicks into on the bar.. I’ll lose that if I cut them down.. it’ll be tricky to drill as well.. hmmmm

Your neighbour sounds like an idiot, an arsehole or both. Wait until they’re making a racket before doing anything.

My wife returned to work in a hospital after mat leave 2 weeks before lockdown 1 and has been working throughout this whole thing. My patience for such utter **** wittery is wafer thin.

It depends on your employer and the exact nature of the scheme. Generally speaking it’s some sort of salary sacrifice lease scheme where you can save quite of lot of tax depending on your tax bracket on the monthly cost, and for EVs the BIK is currently 0% so you’re not going to get a tax hit from that angle either (BIK gradually steps up to 1% for 2021/22 and 2% after that I think) because most (all?) are classed as company cars (even if you’re not entitled to a co car and you pay the monthly payments – that’s the case for me anyway).

Then, depending on the scheme you may not have to pay a deposit and the insurance, maintenance, etc. is often bundled into 1 monthly price. Add in some cheap/free fuel and it can be very attractive.

Fastest fridge I’ve ever had..

No worries at all, some great advice from you above and I learned a thing or two myself. Thanks.

Yes, he rang them yesterday morning first thing and asked a lot of pointed questions from the advice above re. plate thickness, bluing etc. and probably did kill the ramp for a bit. But they weren’t interested and wouldn’t budge on the price. It’s fixed now and he has his car back but logged a complaint with Nissan uk and has all the knackered bits in his boot to have a look at. Will be interesting to have a look when I get round next.

Thank you for the advice all.

Thank you for the continued advice and comments all. Much appreciated.

@Simon – not sure what you’re getting at. I’ve come onto a general discussion forum and asked for some advice on a topic and have received some very helpful replies.