Can only assume there is, Apple Watch uses an esim to do that,£5 a month extra on EE. The newest iPads have esim built in, the older ones use SIM cards I think which is just an additional line on your account but more expensive. Ask your operator. Think EE’s additional lines are £10-15 a month each iirc.

Hulme End Campsite behind the Manifold pub near Hartingdon and Alstonfield.

Can recommend upper hurst farm just up the road, very good but don’t know if they do tents. Excellent facilities, the manifold does good food and is a 10-15 minute walk and the George at alstonfield is supposed to be very good, not been though.

I was going to say I’d give you £100 but mol beat me to it.

Pretty? No.
Inoffensive is about the best it can hope for. Bland and I had to look twice I thought the badge said Laguna…

Will be an excellent car though. I seem to be in the minority of people who like the mk8 golf so what do I know…

Wasn’t there a thread on here a while back detailing someone doing exactly this at the bottom of their garden?

To use transferwise/Revolut etc it’s got to be in an account first…

Cash, post office were pretty good, banks and a lot of the buy back holiday money lot were pretty expensive.

Can you flog it to mates going on holiday at a better rate?

Otherwise your best option is to open a euro account that allows a cash payment, then make an international payment to a forex service like Revolut etc that gives you a current account. You may find this way causes grief, where has the money come from etc.

Edited above post but too late,

Just looked and official rates for a 1400cc petrol hybrid are 12p per mile, so you’d claim £216 in mileage if they use those figures.

Again how much you record is up to you and the company, most are fine with just logging business mileage. I just kept a book, takes seconds to record a date, mileage start, reason for trip then mileage at the end. Record the whole lot I’d say then you can just put in what you need to. Tally up every week/month.

You have to pay out of your own pocket yes but you get the points as you say. You may find you don’t get your expenses back till a month after but once your rolling it doesn’t matter m.

You document those business miles, and put a claim in for the mileage as agreed with the company. 1800 miles at however much. Just looked and official rates for a 1400cc petrol hybrid are 12p per mile, so you’d claim £216 in mileage if they use those figures.

You may find the company want to charge for personal miles, it’s unlikely but does happen. Again all to be sorted out when you agree the terms of the co car.

You just opt out… if that’s an option under the scheme which it almost certainly will be.

All you have to do extra is log your business/personal mileage as the company will then pay you a mileage rate based on your business miles.

First I knew of my similar error was the dart charge people coming after me after I’d not updated my v5 18 months earlier. I sorted that one, but sent my v5 back and prayed there wasn’t a long list of speeding nip’s awaiting me…

Fox shuttle pants is what I use for wet dh days.

As above, just embrace Lycra. These days unless I’m riding where I have to get in a mini bus or with certain mates I just wear Lycra. Warm and toasty, no flapping. Trousers are a lot colder than a good pair of longs.

I thought it would end up just inside the dropout at worst, obviously you’ve tried so it’s a weird fork dropout?

Maybe one for Brant to comment on..

There’s a couple of places list them as 122mm, I’d say that 1mm would be no issue as that’s probably just allowing for tolerances, and the shorter thread length isn’t 3mm too early, it’s measured from the end of the axle so it’s 1mm different in real world measurements as to where the thread goes to on the axle.

I’d measure the depth of the drop out, I reckon it’s well under the thread length and you’ll have no problems. PX do make funny sized stuff though, if it was me id go with that and I’d be ordering from crc etc so you can return if no good.

I’m eyeing up a tempest, and assuming that’s the fork it comes with that’s what will be going on it.

Seem to have lost most of my earlier post, but the dtswiss rws axles come in plug in now which is a thru bolt with the lever separate. I can’t find a product spec for the 100x12mm plug in axle, but the regular 100x12mm axle is exactly the measurements you need, would stand to reason that it would be made to the same measurements.

Edit: bingo, found it. HWQASM00S1460S Is the correct plug in rws thru axle for what you’re after. 121mm 12×1.5 thread. 13mm thread length.

Dtswiss do a 100mm 12mm axle (122mm wide) no idea on thread pitch?

My favourite bibs regularly get me told off by the girlfriend, apparently they don’t leave much to the imagination. I’ve stopped wearing them on club rides, but otherwise I just crack on… no pun intended!

Get yourself a smart turbo and zwift,erg mode. You’ll be back in shape in no time and the zwift element makes it doable. I’m doing an hour most mornings and 2ish one day a week, races etc make it pretty fun.

Technical term is pain in the ass…
Might have one of those, drop me a pm if you’re after a genuine one.

Just be a 32mm XC fork, maybe a 34mm stepcast if you want slightly stiffer chassis for the same weight as a Reba.

See if you can get away with less than 80cm in the garage. The negative of dropping room inside if you go standard conversion is the fridge will foul the bed when down, but it will work if you need it to. Raise the garage floor and you then have access to the under bed section of the back, clever use of boxes here, or a sliding drawer gives you a lot of options for storage. Think about how you convert and you’ll be surprised what you can do. I’ve got a leisure battery in the under sink cupboard and it’s a waste of space. Gas and water in the back compartment, again waste of space as you can fit under slung tanks. If I wiped the slate clean with mine and started again I could get all our kit for a week away in much easier.

Yes, colder but not always a bad thing.
Very rare to sleep in mine but it’s almost always up as it’s just too hot and claustrophobic otherwise – helps with airflow a lot. Thermal screen for it would help but for me the worst thing is the noise when the wind picks up if you’re up there.

Think carefully about all the options – if you’re going to fill it with kit you’d be as well taking a tent and having more space, saving the money. Or look at a drive away awning. the r&r bed is more than just a bed. Clever converting can give you just as much room.

Also check the lift on the foot end. My reimo is quite low so as a tall person I hate my feet touching the top. If you’re looking at roof carrying bear in mind it’s a pain to get things up there, the load needs to be at the back to keep leverage down on the hinges and loading kayaks is a pain. No pop top makes that a lot easier.

There’s a company called Kernow transporters often posting on Facebook about California roofs, that’s where my money would go if I was starting again.

The new rules want two windows on the same side of the van. One on the nearside and one on the offside wouldn’t do.

On a t6 you could glaze every panel… it still wouldn’t classify as motor caravan as you’re needing a high top.

Oh.. and those motor home graphics down the the side..!

As long as you’re careful and don’t cock it up, you won’t need to bleed them.

I’ve shortened plenty no issues, last ones I fitted were level tl’s just make sure you use the new style barb in the box. I put one of the barbs down couldn’t find it and thinking it was no different used an old style barb. It wept slightly, by the time I’d cut again and found a new one I’d lost enough fluid to need a bleed. The other was absolutely fine.

Wow that’s a terrible way of listing.
Yes no. 6 but how do you choose… I’d go with the second 15mm option too.

100/148/11/M15*P1.5

The other is a fox option I think.

I’ve got a pair of 29 pikes I dropped to 120mm, same as you I wanted the stiffness over 32’s. That’s what I’d go for.

A mate keeps plastering maxxswole workout coffee on stalkbook. I thought who would want a coffee with energy stuff in and ignored it, but maybe..?

http://Www.maxxswole.com

You can get it in 4wd though, which to be fair is just better than rwd for that kind of car.

Keep the fwd aimed at the person who wants a cheapish bimmer, I’ll bet the majority of owners won’t care, and then If you want a quick car – 4wd.

If you want something a bit more silly, then you’ve got the 2 series which just looks a million times better anyway.

I used Shimano for many years, switched to horizon now and they’re fantastic. Got a set of the big ones on the enduro and the mid size on the trail.

Still got xt’s on the race bike but for a platform pedal the horizons are really good.

Craft make the best IMO, have a nice range out of the sales cos I’m a tightarse, but I picked up a couple of cheap long sleeves from Aldi the other day for £6.99 and they’re actually rather good!

Nothing wrong with it, cars are mainly financed these days and if you were selling one could you clear a big debt without selling first?

If you’re concerned about it, I’d just get a settlement from the finance co, pay that directly to them and the balance to the dealer. That way you get the car you want and with nothing to worry about as you know it’s been done. Like you I’d definitely be wary of paying the dealer the full amount.

Should be a better price too to reflect the fact it’s probably a private sale as far as warranty etc goes – maybe check this.

I’m looking for similar. Narrowed it down to the etap ultimate linked above, and stick to my current bike which is set up for Tri, or hang fire for the new aeroad which will be integrated cables etc, Tri bar compatible. Compromised yes but quick enough everywhere for me. I’d probably want rim brakes on an aeroad though so I could keep my existing non aero but nice wheelset for regular days.

For me it’s got to be canyon just because the green commute initiative works so well.

Did you measure the spacer, you’ve possibly removed a 20mm spacer..

Don’t recall sektors coming I 160 mm though, so you’ve probably got a bit of extra stanchion showing.

Have you actually tried a turbo tyre?
Run a vittoria turbo tyre on mine and its not a problem, grips very good only slight slippage sprinting too far forwards. If youre trying to run road tyres it doesnt really work. Run higher psi too, 120 in mine as opposed to 90ish on the road.

No idea if static is actually an issue – dont expect the world from it though regards the stiffness if youre referring to the resistance, its a bit hit and miss and it is slow to react to different power outputs.

Not going to hurt you where it is, just leave alone.

Plenty of Marley tile under my carpet as is plenty of others, removing a it is going to be far more harmful than leaving it I’d assume.

27s will go to 160mm. You just need an air spring for either 140mm 29 or 160mm 27.5. Sram tech docs will give you the correct part number. On amazon for £35.

Yep works fine. To be honest I tend to hold the lowers in a work stand at an angle and pour the oil in from the top as it’s one less thing to root around to find.

If it’s your first go don’t forget you’ll need a long reach socket for the bottom bolt.

Try plugging in both usb and audio.
That’s how my iPhone worked with the ford Sony system- no idea if android works also in that way. Full control of phone from car or handset, folders, artwork etc all appeared on the display of the car. Usb gives it all the jazzy control stuff then the audio gets piped through the 3.5mm.

Or just Bluetooth it and get the same thing wirelessly.

Its the same stuff, i use it. Comes out the tube green but it looks yellow in the tube.

Tend to have a pot and a tube for different jobs, but its expensive!

It’s flaky. I use it occasionally when I’m away from home with only the tablet/phone and it can take several tries to make it work.

How much too small? 50/62 will be the outer headtube dimensions, new 727 lists fsa orbit no.57 which is straightforward zero stack integral tapered headset. If it fits but is loose it could be an issue with the headtube, loctite might sort it.

Check your measurements and the hope tech diagrams https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/documents/HOPEHEADSETS2011Web.pdf