It’s just an option. Options have no residual value so the drawback is it’s disproportionately expensive as the say £750 towbar costs you an extra £30 a month over 2 years for example and then it’s not yours. Much easier though.

A well fitted aftermarket won’t affect your lease, will cost you a lot less and you can take it off at the end, depends really on the car as some modern cars require bumper cutting etc if not factory specced which obviously doesn’t work with a lease.

Business van?

Engo patches are really good for this.

Just run the cadence from your sensor to your gain or something because the kickr cadence is basically a random number generator.

Tested mine against my garmin sensors on the head unit, and ill give it its due i thought it was goimg to be miles out but it was actually very good. I have no idea how the wizardry works, but it does.

Have you updated your kickr if its a later model – when they altered the firmware to output cadence from the kickr it was brilliant for the appletv.

I have no problems at all now, you can just ditch the companion app. Thats the flakey bit i found.

Otherwise, fulgaz i like on atv but nothing else ive tried yet is as good as zwift for training, group riding racing etc and all that.

Need more info, but renting and if you’re not going to need the smaller vehicle for any access reason then motorhome every time.

The benefits of a t5 size vehicle are few and specific, and i can definitely see no point really in hiring one given they usually cost the same as a proper motorhome.

This as a t5 camper owner, they make crap motorhomes but excellent dayvans for 1/2 of you.

I dont think carista will give you the correct pdc fault codes, i could be wrong, better if you have a word on one of the vw forums and find someone local to you with vcds.

It will be the connectors id bet rather than the sensor.

if you’re over 40 get a nearby teenager to listen for you.

Off topic, but my mind was blown when i found out this was a thing. Apparently the aldi not far away plays a high pitched whine to disperse the young uns. I said but i cant hear it.. que a rolled eyes look and the realisation im now old. 😂

Its a fault with the lock/deadlock by the sounds of it, when you open from the inside the mechanical action of opening the door is overriding the deadlock but unlocking it with the key isnt. Its not getting the signal to open from the van.

T5 locking issues often come from corrosion of the control unit or wiring under the seat, id hazard a guess that as its happened since you’ve messed with it its the lock itself. My first port of call would be checking everything is reassembled correctly, my bet would be if you’ve taken the door to bits you’ve bolted the contacts back on slightly incorrectly and they’re not lining up properly, this would be the simplest fix. Loosen them off slightly, close the door so they kind of self centre and see if that sorts it.

Check all the wiring and control box under the drivers seat for corrosion first, if all ok then multimeter on the door contacts you can get wiring diagrams online easily to check you’re getting the signal to the van side of the switch, then if you have that then its new lock module, £90 or so.

Best thing about that truck is the numberplate!

Well i chickened out, decided it was too much to touch in. Couple more spots on the sill so its all being painted. Will prompt me to touch in all the other chips on the bonnet and a pillars.

Yeah its on the bottom of the door too, but thats just the tip, and ill just slap some paint over it. The bottom bit is more obvious.
And yes, the embarrassing bit here is i fitted the caravelle seals last year to stop it, then promptly forgot to sort the little bit of rust. 🙈 live and learn.

I shall have a go myself i think. Theres a little but of brown still in the few pits, can i just put the rust stuff over it or should i go a bit deeper first? Hesitant to keep going and go too far…

edit: £1305 first year only

https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables

Assuming it was retail over 40k, which it probably would have been after a few options got ticked – £500 a year.

Always used a mix of conti race kings and x kings, but needing the protection black chilli version makes them a touch porky and I’ve just totalled a brand new one after about 250 miles.

Just ordering some maxxis ikon tan walls to try, should save a couple of hundred grams and very well reviewed.

It does sound a little more faff tbh – they’d have to be a game changer comfort wise to put up with both the look and faff of shoulder straps just to pull your shorts down….

Wrong end…. you dress to one side for a reason! 🤣

You can see why. Its something that really annoys me and i dont know why, mixing decimals and fractions. Offends my OCD and causes no end of problems!

I wouldn’t worry about it too much at the moment, its pretty much the way all the transactions have been happening as its the advice solicitors have been given from the law society. This may start to change now things are easing a bit.

Leaves you open to a lot of risk of it falling apart – i know a few who have moved under lockdown and all have done it this way, only one fell apart, the buyer pulled out at 10am on moving day, it was no onward sale though.

It removes other risks though especially if a chain is involved, what happens if you exchange, then before completion someone contracts the virus, and is unable to complete or at very least delays it. What happens if you are using movers and they cancel on the day because they haven’t got enough staff, or if the government advice changes seriously? Id rather have to unpack a few boxes than have that.

Im in the same boat, my sellers are buying a new build and want 4 weeks from exchange to completion and my solicitor advised same day, but in this case its not possible. Luckily my buyer is a buy to let so the chain is rather small and fairly manageable but I’m concerned about the potential problems after exchange. I don’t think id fancy it in a big chain.

I’ve asked the what if question, but to me I can only really see an exchange happening if there was some kind of CV get out. I think basically any move in the current situation is going to be a load of stress, so you just have to be prepared to take the risk.

My power is lower in tt position than regular road position, its not just about power and the turbo isnt really the best place to get the numbers as aero is more important. Over a 90k 1/2 ironman distance im 3-4kph quicker than i would be even at lower power, but its hard to gauge because ive not done the same course on the same day with both bikes. I ‘feel’ slower though. I can tell the difference because on a gentle uphill i can feel my glutes engage and the power kick in, but overall I’m quicker over the course in the tuck.

Id take your new bike out on some of your regular tt courses and do some comparing to your numbers last year. I think it also takes a while to get adjusted if its a radical change, no idea on the numbers of the new bike but a stealth is very old now, could be a very different geo. Get comfortable on it and put a couple of hundred miles on it, sounds like your making lots of changes in a short time based around feel, which isn’t the whole picture because the goal really is to optimise your power output rather than just increase it. Found it hard to get my head round.

The only shorts ive ever had that have had a decent pad are some decent funkier ones which i tend to save for the turbo, and some nice altura liners.

Bibs are better, more supportive etc – whether you prefer liners or bibs is up to you but if you want to know why you shouldnt be wearing liner shorts on a road bike get someone to follow you in a car with a dascham….

Not instant gratification, but if you want to make a good batch curry….

I think id be 99% happy that the one in your link is the right headset, and you’re currently running the wrong bearings, wrong angles and probably a mm too deep.

Buy the headset, fit the correct crown race and new bearings and all should be right. Its slightly strange though because if the other lbs has fitted the correct crown race the only difference is the bearing height which shouldnt give you that big a gap, as the 45deg angle into the headset cup is correct.

Ive got a pair of recon silvers, tk damper i think. Set to 100mm, qr9mm, meaning to put the on classifieds but i just cant be bothered cos it doesnt work . Based in melton mowbray if youre anywhere close as i cant see them being worth postage.

Email canyon UK, don’t worry about it you will get the parts they are very good at that side of things.

You just need the reference numbers off the technical diagram, they’ll normally send you that diagram and ask you what you want so you are one step ahead there.

I got some little bits last year for my 2013 strive, no problem. Didn’t think prices were unreasonable, maybe add anything else you might need mech hanger etc to make the post worthwhile.

Weight, one less thing to catch/break, especially the older maxles which were very good at breaking the lips off when undoing them, no mechanism to gunge up or break leaving the axle stuck in the fork.

I prefer them, I don’t like cam lock ones, if you always carry a tool which I do and especially since the advent of tubeless then there isn’t much need for QR. The only QR I use is DT RWS but I’d just rather bolt up now.

Bit like seat clamps, don’t really see qr seat clamps these days now we all use droppers, bolt up is better if you don’t need to adjust something on the fly.

T6 with the euro 6 engine is the one with adblue, all t5’s are euro 5.

Early t6 were euro 5, 66plate onwards is adblue, September 16 is when the law changed although you will see a few earlier ones with it.

If you want to check a particular van and it doesn’t say just bang the number plate into the London ulez checker.

Dragged the HT out today for some nocarnognarnotfar action, nice bimble round the Bw’s of the wreake valley 👍🏻

Im going to dust off the mtb today for the first time since last august. If i can find the keys for the locks.

Prior to that it was for HONC last year… and that were the only 2 rides it saw in 2019.

If you have the budget for a decent lateish t5.1, then a well specced kombi will give you 6 seats, you can insulate and carpet the back, fit an exploria bed which will enable you to do most of what you want. You can get bikes in, sleep, ferry people around. You could probably get creative with a cab bed and sleep the 4 of you at the ages they are now.

You’ve then got the perfect base vehicle for a full conversion if you want to go that way, or sell it on as a ready to convert camper and you’ll not lose money.

Shouldn’t really be passing but I wouldn’t worry about it. Could be oil from somewhere else so just do your service and see how it is after.

The seals in the top of the adjuster are a pain to do and not part of the standard service kit – I had one leak like that and sorting it was more hassle than it was worth given you can just store the bike upright.

Id buy the correct grease, lm grease would be a no no, you dont want lithium grease in there – stendec is sillicon based to work with the rubber o-rings/seals.

Foam seals i tend to clean once and change every other service, as you say you may as well change them, dust wipers are a pain to change without the right tool in my experience. Bit of pvc pipe helps press them in.

I tend to strip the whole lot even if im not changing all the o-rings, just clean and grease the old ones unless theres obvious migration or problems. If your holding air ok then you should be ok just doing a lower lube and change the damper fluid.

As its an oem fork i would say just check the serial number on the crown for the date, ive done reba’s circa that generation that have been off on model year, i.e. your 2008 fork might be a 2007, just check the oil volume charts, Ive had it before where i had the wrong year and the oil volume changed. 2007/2008 reba are both 110ml of 5wt damper / 15ml 15wt lowers so you should be fine, but 2009 is 123ml 5wt / 10ml 15wt ao its worth checking if youre not sure of the exact year.

I’m looking at the same frame.
If it came down to that budget I’d have the integrated stem/bar over ultegra, new 105 is very good. No wires.. 😍

I’d have to have di2 on a new bike though, I’m saving the pennies and hoping for the di2 bike with the level 5 integrated bar and basic wheels that I can put a set of dtswiss erc1400’s on next year when we can ride properly again.

It does look a very good bike and I like how much component choice you get with crank/stem/bar lengths etc even down to the drivetrain.

Yeah mine does that, battery is knackered and in the winter it won’t start after a week or so. Sometimes it’s so dead that I can’t unlock it and that’s when I know it’s totally gone, but that’s a little bit random – I can leave it weeks and it just wont start, sometimes after a week it won’t unlock and then it’s completely kaput, this is quite rare though.

I can just plug mine in though which helps, if you’ve got a second vehicle jump yours then if it starts you know it’s the battery and you can just change it.

If the central locking doesn’t work I’d say it’s definitely the battery.

Mine does exactly the same when it’s flat, if it was a key / ignition / immobiliser fault you’d have working central locking on key turn.

The only other fault I could see causing all that would be the main battery fuse or a break in the wiring from the battery but I’d say very unlikely. When did you last use it?

Ignition switch is usually the culprit, but if both keys don’t give you any life and the remote locking isn’t working it sounds more like a flat battery.

Open the van mechanically on the key does the central locking work?

If you’re fairly mechanically adept it’s a straightforward service, I wouldn’t buy a seal kit just clean and overhaul and change the oil. You’ll only need 2 bottles of oil (5w&15w) a tub of stendec grease, Allen keys, circlip pliers, 24mm flat socket or an adjustable wrench and some care, and if they’re QR15mm a long reach 10mm socket.

If you need to buy all that stuff and don’t fancy doing it yourself just pay for a service, you won’t get a new straight steerer Reba now and if you buy one second hand it will probably need a service so it’s still not bad money to spend especially if youre still riding the bike and haven’t done them for over 10 years!

https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/files/index/download/id/5dea8e4ef75ea284b90068e4d45d46a825/

Just looks like a hope E/2 to me, or ZS 44 / 56 headset of your choice.

Id ignore the outer lip dimension, thats a 3mm lip which is probably about what theyre all going to be although i cant find a proper technical drawing for the hope one.

Superstar do a £35 version, nothing wrong with their headsets.

I use something like this https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/15mm-id-x-25mm-od-clear-transulcent-silicone-hose-pipe-tubing-2434-p.asp
Mine came with my canyon though.

Monk it sounds like your bike has full length internal outers, my specialized is the same. Makes cable changes super easy.

Bit of hunting and ive found some.

https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/15mm-id-x-25mm-od-clear-transulcent-silicone-hose-pipe-tubing-2434-p.asp

I looked myself prompted by the other thread, ive got a roll of nylon tube which is brilliant, you just thread it over the old inner and thread the new one through, then pull the tube out. But all i can find is 4mm OD which is no good. Mine is more like 2mm od, came with my canyon strive. Theres a canyon owners group on facebook maybe ask on there, theres a lot of multiple owners could have some spare.

Ive got a similar gap on my front lawn, grass comes up to the slope although my blocks don’t have quite so much drop to the slope.

Whilst i pondered what to do with it, because it looks a bit crap, the grass jut kind of matted over the slope and now it looks fine and i just mow over the edge. Id just take the wood out, soil if required and seed it.

Ive got a couple of flip top bait boxes for mine. Can see where everything is from the outside.
Then larger stuff goes in ziplock bags in a couple of larger boxes.