iPhone users only I’m afraid.

It’s an ‘in’ joke

Do you live in an area that is so rife with car theft, it affects your decision when buying a car? Genuine question, I’m no having a dig btw, just interested in this thought process.

There’s no area that isn’t. Ok so if you’re not in parts of Yorkshire or Birmingham or London the risk is lower, but anybody parking a nickable car on the drive has to think about it. Whether your opinion is let them take it, or defend it, or just not worry about it anybody not at least thinking about it is a bit stupid these days.

I know this actually happens but it’s one of the reasons we have a Fiesta and not a Focus RS or anything more exciting. They’ll go for the RS3 or the Range Rover Sport a few doors away.

Which is why I prefaced my comment with is the car pinchable, the easiest way of avoiding it is to not have the thing in the first place. Op’s bmw is very unlikely to go walkabout if it’s a company 3 series diesel even if it is a nice spec. Take a bit of care with security and you’ll be fine. If op’s bmw is an m2 or a nice x5.. different story with regards to risk of it being targeted.

Ghost or pandora if you want to keep it on your drive. Fit some PIR floodlights and anti snap locks, alarm, lock windows etc. Anything else is after the fact, cameras, trackers etc. Yes don’t use the Bluetooth feature on the ghost it renders the thing useless.

How pinchable is it – the one drawback to a ghost system and a keyless blocker is you can potentially turn a relatively painless keyless theft into a break in, into 4 armed men in balaclavas holding a knife at your wife with your kids watching. If you’re single then crack on and keep a loaded maglite by the bed ‘in case of power cuts’.

Other thing to bear in mind is insurance are getting sharp on lack of forced entry – if the car goes it’s insured but dont leave anything valuable inside it.

Have we got two recipes the same yet? Most of you are heathens 🤣 anybody using oil or milk needs educating!

Eggs and butter into cold pan. Heat on low, gently break up and combine eggs. Let it cook a bit, gently stir off heat, back on heat and repeat. Salt and pepper at end.

@thepilot

I’ve had a look and the firm I used to use have ceased trading. (I’ve not used them for probably 6-7 years) You need a debt recovery specialist but I think it’s a bit of a minefield, they were a good firm but I would imagine that’s possibly a bit of a rarity… IIRC, they put the prices up a bit the last couple of times but I think it was only a few quid for a LBA, then a bit of a fee for instruction then more as you progress but you claim all that back if you win.

Seems they’ve passed on to a firm called the Wilkes partnership – not a recommendation as I’ve never used them but you could give them a call.

https://www.wilkes.co.uk/greenwood/

Honestly take some legal advice. Everyone says you can do it yourself etc but you stick to building furniture and let somebody else do the bit you don’t know about.

I’ve used a small firm a few of times for this kind of thing, £1 letter before action sorts most (the solicitors letterhead carries a lot more weight than yours) and only a couple went any further, 1 all the way. The only time it ever cost me more than a quid was when a customer settled early after incurring the legal fees and I swallowed the couple of hundred quid.

You do it properly, you cause a lot more grief to the other party, and because the solicitors know what they are doing it costs them a lot more too, Interest, your costs, their costs etc etc. The one that went to court got a very big bill.

It doesnt really matter. There are a number of ways they can get in, depending on car and if its alarmed. If its not alarmed they can pick the lock in seconds, they can scan the plip of the key but thats not that feasible. They can just use kit to open the car anyway, but unlikely if it wasn’t taken tbh.

Id say are you sure it was locked, how do you know it was locked after? Most people would just open the car on the key and not try to open the door first. An opportunist trying car doors and stumbling upon an unlocked one is probably most likely in this scenario unless youve got a pinchable car, depending where it is parked if you had a fast hatchback id be thinking a but more about security.

When you phone the aa after locking the keys in the car, they dont come round with a hammer anymore.

I bought a solid grey metal IKEA base a few weeks ago and topped it with some cheap laminate as I couldn’t be bothered to do it properly in lockdown.
My last desk was oak worktop over 2 cabinets, fine for 10+ years. I think oak worktop framed like fingerbang has looks really quite good.

My plan is to eventually swap the cheap laminate for a piece of live edge wood, been watching Matt estrea on YouTube and he gave me some serious desk envy. The link to Surrey timbers above is where he gets his from.

My ‘11 air started to last a couple of hours between charges.. the health count etc didn’t look too bad so I ended up using it on power a lot more not bothering to change it. Iirc I was on 800 or so cycles. Eventually the battery swelled overnight and the next morning the MacBook was like a beach ball!

Got an ‘apparently’ oem battery for it and fitted it, amazingly easy and the case just went back to shape and it holds about 4-5 hour charges now, not as good as original but it’s a decade old. So I’d say just change yours.

I’m dabbling with Revolut, I wouldn’t recommend it for anything too advanced as the 2.5% transaction fees are quite steep but as a really easy way of chucking some money at crypto/shares/commodities it does work very well. It shows very simple data quite well and is dead easy to use.

I’ve thrown a few hundred quid into it for a play mainly to leave things in and forget about it and it works well for that as you don’t have to hold the crypto etc, but if I was actually wanting to play at trading and learn how to be more involved it’s the wrong tool for that job.

Surely after a couple of washes it will be the top colour anyway?

Pork pie and a pint ya soft gett

Dont think this thread needs any more than this.
Mind you i seem to have found myself in a rather weird place where that constitutes christmas morning breakfast. Revelation!

Mojave beige on a t6 I’d probably go for an oem paint kit to get as close as possible, it will never match because of the flake etc but you’ll protect the metalwork, and likely look better than a panel paint from most places.

Mine is reflex silver and I’m saving for a full respray at some point, I feel your pain… it’s had paint before and it sticks out like a sore thumb.

What colour – some are extremely difficult to match into epsically the silvers. Check your colour code in the vehicle book rather than just going oh Its reflex silver etc.
The touch up paints from MAD are good, and they come as an easy to use kit. Ive used them before, OEM sticks and the halfords ones, all blend the paint but none get it perfect.

Apple TV and telly. 40” here.
When I watch a movie on the big screen I have zwift on the iPad and it’s nowhere near as good.

I think nirvana would be a twin 32” setup but possibly overkill for the man cave 😂

On the Bluetooth thing my wahoo updated itself a while back to kick out cadence from the trainer and it’s pretty accurate so no issues using atv with a bt heart monitor and wahoo. Not sure on tacx.

Easy this year. Worked every day this month and only really been to aldi other than work and home. Did pop to Sainsbury’s last night and was a bit concerned it would get me at the last minute but got through unscathed!

One of the few covid positives! 😂

You’ve got it wired up wrong – because you’ve got a previous aftermarket stereo in there the previous owner has probably done the hard bit and got the accessory live sorted.

On the stereo side of the wiring loom there should be a red and yellow cable, they should have bullet connectors in-line, swap those over.

If that doesn’t sort it, it’s probably a bit of a previous bodge – look for cut and joined wires on the van side. 2006 you should have quad lock wiring, if it is factory fresh then you should have a permanent live on the loom, everything else is done by canbus so for an aftermarket stereo you’ve got to get an accessory live and a light live from somewhere else on the dash. ASR switch works.

I’m more into combine harvesters now, bigger is better 😉

I don’t quite get your question.
Yes you should accrue holiday pay during your employment, which includes your notice, and if you are taking holiday in your notice.

I.e. if you for example get 28 inc bh, and your notice ended at the end of June you would be owed 14 days. If you took the bh off that then that leaves 9 days up to the end of your notice, whether you were on holiday or not is irrelevant.

I’m guessing you are working your notice and want holiday as ‘pay’ you would be entitled to accrue holiday up until your last day of employment and you round up.

If you are asking if you should get the day you could potentially accrue during the ‘holiday’ pay you are getting, no, because you’re not employed then you are simply getting paid for the holiday you didn’t take.

Kenwood dmx7017dabs is probably the best shout for the money, I’ve got the 8 series but it’s a chunk more money for the extra features and wireless CarPlay. You won’t have the speed sensor canbus link which I think you need for wireless Apple CarPlay, (this might have been solved with an update) android wireless is fine.

Absolut5 will sell you all the kit you need to integrate it all and give you all the advice you need, give them a shout and let them talk you through the best options. Bear in mind a £300 stereo will cost you another £100 or so in adapters potentially depending what you go for, wiring loom, dab Ariel etc although you shouldn’t need a fascia adapter for your van. Add another £50 or so for a cheap RVC, Kenwood do a linked RVC and dashcam but it’s bloody expensive and I don’t really see the benefit of a linked dashcam.

Don’t forget speakers, sound deadening etc… 😉 it gets expensive but you have a t5, you know that😂

I had a go during the first lockdown and I really enjoyed it. I didn’t carry on after the trial ended cos my internet really struggled with it and it wasn’t enjoyable unless I farted about downloading first which kind of takes the impetus out of it.

If they could get some zwift style training structure over the top of the rides I’d switch in an instant but it’s the workouts in zwift I’d really miss.

I shall pay for another month now I’m on 200mb broadband and give degla a go!

Ive used cheapo bolle ones from screwfix happily enough, just treated myself to an amazon special pair of photocromics and for £25 im bloody impressed. First time ive used a tint change pair and theyre ace. Witchcraft.

I wouldn’t worry about it, you’re selling it – any buyer should know a house of that age is likely to have asbestos in the artex. Survey would say the same about any property with artex that was built before the 90’s just to ass cover.

I’ve bought 2 with artex ceilings from the asbestos era, last one had it on the walls too. De nib and skim, plasterer wasn’t bothered. No reason in my eyes to receive a lower offer because of it, it’s par for the course on properties like that, I’m guessing it’s a refurb anyway?

Have a word with hazzy days, theyll be able to do it no doubt or at least price it up for you. I bet it will be north of 5k.

This isn’t descriptive enough to be useful. “I can’t play football, please help.” Am I needing coaching tips or is it because I don’t actually own a football?

Have you used the new system? I’m tech savvy(Ish 🤣).. but it just seems like it’s useless for anything apart from placing ads, with no real help from them. That aside, the issue is not so much one of using it as I can’t get the ‘page’ to work. An hour of figuring the new systems out and I seem to have a grasp of the Facebook business interface, but the problems above are that I have no access to the page I want to admin.

If it wasn’t for the change in systems I would think we had been hacked, but because it seems to have happened at the same time as Facebook switching the old page management system off it seems they are linked.

I have created a new page and I can make that work in the way I expect from my personal account so it’s not just a case of me being unable to work the system which is what I first thought.

That’s not Rudy on the bed or in the bedroom. it’s clearly edited with an actor.

Is that why he’s been making excuse about it for the past couple of days.. rearranging his microphone?

I laughed most of the way through 😂

Quite. Why put the winner in the title. Watched the womens live but had to catch the mens on repeat, and that ruined it.

Made worse by the crap bbc commentary, had to switch to the ipad and get red bull working, its not dh without claudio and warner 😂

Deadening co uk , silent coat and dodo thermo liner is whats on mine. Fleece insulation or sheeps wool on top then ply over. Plenty of youtube videos showing how to do it, check out the combe valley campers video channel on youtube for some guides.

Personally I tend to use Trailforks/strava as source then plan my own (using bikehike if this is still working ) and upload via garmin connect or the very flaky app when it wants to work. You can get the good bits that way and have a bit of control over the kind of route you want.

Probably not peak stw enough, but I’m quite partial to the aldi 99p packs . 😋

Doesnt sound like op’s son is planning on waiting 6 years to do the kitchen….

They are…. But a T5 is no more useful spacewise…..still needs a tent on the side to be comfortable. Your up to a ducato mwb before you have a decent space. Only reason as far as I can see for a T5 is so you can get under height barriers.

Mine’s my only vehicle. Its just the right size for many, i would love a big motorhome but then i’ve got to store it, have another vehicle, parking is an issue when touring etc. I couldn’t get anything bigger in most european cities. Doesnt need a tent, slightly pushed on space when there is 2 of us but on my own it’s ace. Poptop gives the ceiling height.

There are cheaper options, but if you want to pay the scene tax you get the benefits of the vw club.

I’m the first to say dont buy a cheap t5 Though because They will be a money pit, any less than 5-10k and i’d be looking elsewhere. The problem really with other vans is theyre fine for day vans but you start converting properly and you dont get a return on your investment.

Mine is worth a bit more than i paid for it now after nearly 5 years ownership, try having a ducato that does that.

And just as a big FYI, watch out for the scammers. A bargain van will almost definitely be a scam at the moment. Same for cheap camper parts etc, it’s terrible at the moment everyone trying to capitalise on the market boom.

Theyre crazy money, now is not the time to buy.
3-4k uplift on a base transporter and the campers have risen by more than that. If you hunt hard, check out fb groups etc there are a few reasonably priced ones about, saw a decent low mileage t5.1 on fb the other day with a full conversion for 20k and they seem to all be around 25k for a similar spec.

I think the sweet spot for a budget van is a well maintained low mileage pre facelift t5, there are some genuine vans out there the later 06-09 models with sub 100k can be had for 6-8k and budget 8-10k for a decent conversion.

Rewire first, but have the kitchen planned first so you know where all the electrics etc need to go.

2 plasterboard fixings will be fine, especially if it’s not cantilevered out.

Don’t plug wood, decent size bolts and pilot hole it first.

Sounds very weird. If you can get two decent bolts into the timber then 2 heavy duty metal plasterboard fixings on the plasterboard that should be fine.

My zwift tv is old and very heavy, it’s got 3 plasterboard fixings and 1 decent bolt into timber and it’s fine.

Although I’d be wanting the 6” of floor space back… and getting the sledgehammer out….

Sand back, I didn’t try very hard at this bit.
Sandtex exterior undercoat, two coats of exterior sandtex satin. Didn’t take long, where I didn’t sand very well you can see the old paint outline underneath but the new paint is solid over it.

If I was bothered I’d use a heat gun to strip the old paint properly first.

Been on there 2 years facing into the sun.

You won’t have studs on an external wall, dot and dab will leave you a void. For a big plasma I’d use shield bolts (what I did) with a bit of luck you’ll be able to get a couple of them through a dab. If you can’t get through a dab then the plasterboard will compress, a couple of spacers around the bolt between tv bracket and wall will sort it, the tv fixing kits often come with them. Just putting longer/bigger screws in won’t help as the plasterboard flex will prevent the plug doing its job.

Corefix is the other option, I had everything I needed in the tool box but I’d probably try the corefix if I did it again, it’s a clever little system.

Sounds like you need a good clean out! Mine did that.. took the nurses 3 attempts to clear both ears out.😳

I suspect you’ll need to post a link.
Prepare yourself… 😂

But it sounds like it’s too expensive. Sounds like a 50k project to do up and families with that kind of free cash and requiring the space will really struggle, it’s probably the kind of house you do up then move into and it’ll need to be a bargain at the moment.