Tried another bike park in Japan this weekend. This one is at the base of mount Fuji. It’s quite small with a chair lift. The weather was absolutely glorious. It’s a bit higher so cooler at a nice 23-25 degs. Got a 3 hours ticket and somehow managed to get 11 runs in.

This one is called Fujiten which is about 90 mins drive, but it’s 90 mins drive on local roads so actually quite close. The other one (Fujimi) was 2 hours but it was 2 hours worth of motorway driving.

That’s Mount Fuji in the background. No snow this time of the year.

Only had 3 hours so didn’t really stop to take any more photos.

Rather than the usual weekend bash round Hamsterley, I’ve gone to the other side of the world.

No actual riding pictures because of how wet it was. There’s a typhoon close by but I judged it as good enough to go out. Stuck with the easy run as well as it was really slippery. This one is the Fujimi Panorama bike park which is the main one in Japan.

Uplift:

Bear warning:

Then the weather came in:

After a few runs:

Luckily they have a really good bike wash facility:

This one is about 2 hours drive from where I’m staying. There’s smaller one about an hour away which I’m going to try next time. Also found a really good local bike shop who sorted my slightly leaky tubeless setup and some brake pads that I worn out from yesterday.

If you want a quick fix, tyre shine works temporarily until it washes off.

For a more permanent solution, I use the autoglym kit. The problem is it deteriorate a lot quicker because the original protective coating is removed in the process.

Might be worth spraying the top coat on afterwards as per suggestions above.

Yes, BB is the bottom bracket, it has torque and cadence sensor in there. It’s apparently really sensitive and needs calibrating every time you touch the bottom bracket bolts.

For reference, on mine, the threads in the frame were full of paint so the bottom bracket never achieved the correct clamping force and came loose very quickly. Hence the bottom bracket needing re-calibrating after the threads were cleaned up and was re-tightened. This is apparently quite common.

It used to be a call to the Fazua team and they will do it for you remotely, but you can do it yourself now.

Might want to check you have the latest firmware. It just had a new firmware released 3 days ago which is a big improvement.

So far on my bike, it’s smoother, quicker reacting and more powerful support. Range seemed to have improved slightly as well. Also allow users to self calibrate the BB which used to be a dealer only function.

I have the drop bar version and been using it for my commute which has been great. Helps going up hill and getting up to speed from standing start, then no different from riding a normal bike once over 15.5mph.

Was looking at the £15 turbo trainer but realised it’s not thru axle compatible. So just bought lifeline rollers for £44 delivered

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/lifeline-turbo-trainer-roller-trainer-rt-01

Always wanted to try rollers, just can’t say no at that price. 

For the ones who are worried about the orders not getting dispatched.

Ordered on Wednesday evening, dispatched on Friday afternoon and collected by Evri this morning so appears orders are still getting out.

I’ve bought the Vitus E-Substance (2×10) to replace my Boardman Adv 8.9e which is my commuter.

It’s been in my basket for a week, they just knocked another £80 off which helped me pull the trigger. I would have gone for the full carbon one for not much more but they are out of medium.

Done it for a very stupid reason as well, the Boardman is 1x and I always wanted 2x because I wanted the range and close gear ratio. I tried but there just wasn’t enough clearance for the inner chainring. Something that always bug me so that would resolve that.

I happen to have a di2 gravel bike that I rarely use anymore, so going to transfer the di2 over and sell it as I try to stick to my 1 in 1 out rule.

I could have sold my Boardman but it has 4.5k km on the clock so is probably worth pennies. Plan to turn that into my gravel bike / backup commuter. Having 2 Fazua bikes also mean I can carry a spare battery if I decide to go on a longer ride.

I thought as I spend most of my saddle time commuting, might as well do it on as nice of a bike as I could. Just can’t say no at that price.

I’m another one with a Boardman ADV 8.9e. My commute is 7 miles each way, I permanently stick it in rocket mode and have between 10-20% left after 2 days depending on how much I carry.

I’m on it as long as it’s not chucking it down or icy. I did try when it’s icy but had a few offs so just decided it wasn’t worth it. Most of my commute is on ungritted roads / paths which is probably why I couldn’t do it.

For me, it’s important to leave a bag of spare kit at work as there’s nowhere to dry my clothes and it’s just not nice riding home in wet kit.

I have a rear rack and full length guards on mine. Although I don’t take my laptop home every day, it’s a big heavy CAD thing so I have a separate laptop specific pannier bag and a generic one for my clothes / lunch / repair kit etc. I would say it’s nice not having anything on my back but it does ruin the handling a bit when it’s fully loaded.

Mines just ticked over 4k km and not had a problem with the electrics. I did have some problems with the APEX groupset so upgraded to a GRX which was a complete gamechanger. I like it as it rides like a normal bike but it is light assist only even in rocket mode and you will need to put effort in. I still sweat as much as when I’m on a normal bike but the difference is I can now ride in all week without affecting the riding I do at the weekend.

Update:

I raised a complaint using the online system last week after seeing the last post just stating the claim has been rejected unfairly and asked them to review it again.

Just had a cheque through the letterbox for the cost of the cassette + postage after I got home from work today.

No email to the CEO, social media or bombers involved but a good result for me.

@Jordan, printed the label out myself and dropped it off at the local post office.

@dovebiker, the tracking number is the same as the one on the photo of the proof of delivery but is obviously something completely different.

Yes, they have the details of the incorrect parcel that was received.

I think the person I am dealing with is likely to be some admin based overseas who doesn’t have any idea how things works.

They treated it as a parts loss claim and pictures of both the original interior and exterior of the parcel is required.

I think I might raise a complaint and see if I can get someone local to have a look at what actually happened.

Grew up in Hong Kong. There are a few kids in my apartment block, we all had bikes and used to race each other around the quiet car park and that’s where I started. Those were fond memories and pretty rare thing to have happened in Hong Kong with it being so densely populated.

First MTB ride was with the uni cycle club taking me to Leith Hill. All I could afford at the time was a parts box mix bike based on a Carrera Kraken with v brakes, Suntour forks and fire xc pros that I built for commuting with used parts. Was holding on for my dear life most of it and slowed everyone else down. Still enjoyed it and went on a few more trips. Uni work then took over and didn’t really do it regularly until I left uni.

My first proper bike was an orange 5 but been a serial bike changer since.

They have the post office receipt with the weight but still insist on seeing a picture of the original parcel.

That’s why I think it’s unfair for them to have rejected the claim. I suppose the small plastic bag could be filled with lead?

That’s a good shout, think I would stop short of telling them it is what I sent but it should at least demonstrate there is no way a 10-51 cassette is going to fit through the letter box inside a tiny blue plastic bag as per the proof of delivery picture.

How about going di2? I looked into this before I went for a electric bike for commuting.

The alfine di2 brifter is about £100 and the alfine 8 di2 conversion kit is about £130? Probably end up spending the same but you get to have electric shifting which might help justifying the spend?

Got the £40 voucher through chat. They did say it’s an “exception” though. The code to get £25 off is SAVE by the way and you do have to order front and rear separately.

These are now £85 an end. I am almost tempted to get another pair. CRC also honoured the new price by sending me £40 of vouchers when I asked.

I can also confirm the sram +40mm adaptor don’t work with these so have ordered a hope one.

Thanks for that. I have the Sram +40mm adaptor so that should in theory give enough clearance, worst case have no problem getting the dremel out as long as I don’t need to take too much material away. I’m also going to start with using the bar clamps for the shifter and dropper lever. Good reminder that proper lever position is more important than it looking neat.

I also got myself some Galfer Wave 2mm rotors on the way as I hate excess lever throw. This is getting expensive. Well, a lot less expensive than when I was looking at Hopes.

Thanks for the PSA, just ordered a pair. These went up to £130 now so at £105 each end with the £25 off. Still a really good deal.

I have a pair of Codes which I’m struggling with consistency. They seem to give me a different level of power every time I use them. I cleaned/lubed the pistons, full fluid flush and bleed. That improved things but although I like the power, they are still not as consistent as the Shimano on my other bike.

Reading up the reviews, the Dominion A4 should be a big improvement. Can’t wait to try them out.

One thing I am struggling with is shifter / dropper lever matchmakers. Hayes only do a RH one for shifter. Seems like the only way to get it is to import from Germany / US which make the cost a little ridiculous at around £40. I’ve got some old matchmakers from a set of Avid which don’t look very different so will give them a go. The internet says Magura matchmakers works so I’m hoping the Avid ones work as well.

I use one of

these

You feed the wire through first using the magnet. The hose then goes into the rubber sleeve at the end of the wire which pulls it through the frame and also stops fluid from coming out.

These made internal routing infinitely easier.

Before you start drilling, have you tried an impact driver? As in one that you hit with a hammer, not a electric or air one.

The hammer action keeps the slot engaged and also loosen off any corrosion.

Got my stuck one out in 1 piece with one. They are also great for those crappy posi bolts on car brake disc and oil pumps. Not rounded one since I started using one.

Thanks for this, but ended up with 2 Pixel 7 instead. One for me and one for Mrs Yiu.

Went for the £29 up front, £31 24 month Vodafone upgrade plan lucky we are already with Vodafone and due an upgrade but a new plan cost the same. Equivalent sim only plan is £13 so that’s £460 for the phone which is not bad already.

Then on top of that, you get a free Fitbit versa 4 with the phone. They go for around £100 – £130 on eBay so I will probably get £100 back after fees and postage. I also got an extra £40 off for referring Mrs Yiu as well.

That works out about £340 each and get to pay for them over 24 months which is great as both our phones are on their way out.

You need to be quick though as the Fitbit deal ends tonight.

I run G-One speed on my commuter and they are a pain to seat. They are really good tyres though so been through a few wheelsets and found the wider the rims, the harder they are to seat simply because the bead just naturally roll in.

After many hours of struggle, I found ratchet strap around the outside of the tyre, work the bead towards the rims, then it seats easily after that. I needed to do this even after they are nearly worn out, otherwise, they just refuse to seat.

Do you have a 3D printer? Does this look like what you need?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4906783

I will look at the 1 / 2 slides switch. Seems to be stuck in 1 slice mode to me?

Are you sure you have tightened all the compression nuts enough?

I had similar symptoms before on a GRX setup when one of the compression nuts not been tightened enough and has a very very tiny weep. Tightened it up and all was good.

Never had problems with race matrix pads in multiple setups.

Is that the one where you can sploosh through the ford after the stony drop down from the farmyard? I love that bit!

That sounded interesting so went and try it out this morning. Perfect for the gravel bike.

Turns out it links the NCR1 with the W2W so formed a loop to and from Silksworth. Quite a nice little loop if I’m short on time.

Didn’t realise there’s a few locals here

I do a few fitness rides from the door on the gravel bike around the NCR1 when I don’t have time to head down Hamsterley. It’s quite boring but I enjoy going up that gentle incline from Ryhope past Burdon on the NCR1.

I was there last week and it was re-opened, they’ve tarmac all the way from Ryhope up to the A19 bridge which makes it even more boring.

I am glad this come up so I can explore some other off routes from the NCR1 to make it more interesting.

Yes, mine has a rear thru axle so the frame is probably different.

The Fazua is good for me. I would say even on the highest setting, the assist is quite weak. It helps you out other than does all the work for you which is what I am after.

My commute is 7 miles with 80m of climb each way. I always use max assist. If I ride normally, down to 30% after 2 days or 10% if I let it do most of the work.

The software is quite good in terms of setting up your own profiles for assist. It also sends out power and cadence through ble which is quite good if you have a compatible computer.

I have the Boardman adv 8.9e.

Done about 2k commuting on it since March. Only complaint is the groupset. The shifting is ok once you swap out the rear mech but braking is weak. Swapped for GRX and been happy since.

I put my gravel wheelset with 42mm gravel king SK on when I go offroad. I didn’t even have to remove the full length mudguard so there’s clearance.

I also have the Boardman with the Fazua. There is no resistance that I can feel when over the assist limit.

It really help with commuting as I can decide how much effort to put in without getting to work late.

CRC is doing the Vitus Emitter for £1799. Don’t think you can get a cheaper Fazua bike than that.

I have the same bike. The Apex were significantly worse than the Rivals on my other bike.

Tried different pads, aligning etc but didn’t make any differences.

Tried bleeding and found the front lever was leaking because of a pinched banjo bolt o-ring from the factory. Took it into halfords who agreed to replace but no stock till Christmas.

So went GRX and they’ve been better than the Rivals on my other bike and trouble free.

Now upgrading the Rivals to Shimano as well.

Just an update. Fawkes cycles couldn’t tell me if they have the right part for me, but after looking around on US websites, it seems like they don’t have the right size.

I’ve been really tempted by the CRC Brand X post at £100 but I tried repairing the post again, but this time with JB weld “marine” instead of standard araldite.
I also baked it at 150 degrees for 2 hours after hardening over night just to be 100% that it’s cured properly.

The JB weld stuff is grey (just like the industrial stuff that I used in a lab before) so can’t really tell it’s been repaired in the photo. It didn’t peel off after wet sanding this time and it’s nice and smooth again. I can still feel a slight friction change when the seal goes past the repair but there shouldn’t be any air leak as long as the repair last.

I’m now waiting for the updated IFP and some new bushing to turn up and it will hopefully last me a few years after I put it back together.

Thanks for that, but I think stealth ones all have a different airshaft because the poppet valve has to go through it.

I suppose I could try repairing it with JB weld for now and watch for one to come up on eBay.

I have seen a new one for £33 from Fawkes cycles, I am not 100% if it is the right part because there’s not much description, might ask them to clarify.

It also need some new bushing and an updated IFP, I think this is going to end up costing more than buying a good used post, but then I will know it is right.

That would be great, it’s an externally routed A2.

I did try araldite, but when I try to smooth it with wet and dry, it just peeled off.

I had good result with JB weld stuff before, so might try it with that instead.

Another one to consider would be the Boardman range with Fazua drive. I think it’s aimed at the same market as the X35. i.e. light weight with low level of assist. I have the ADV 8.9E. Fitted full mudguards / rear rack and it only weight in at 17kg which is not bad for a ebike.

The Boardman is not my first ebike for commuting duty. My last one was a much cheaper ebike. However, I started getting what I suspected to be wiring problems about 9 months in as my commute is on quite rough surfaces and some of the wiring probably fatigue failed. They couldn’t fix it because there are so many wires around the bike so I ended getting my money back.

After reading about, I think no matter what system you go for, you are likely to get problems with ebikes. The advantage of the Fazua drive is the battery / controls / motors are all contained in one unit that you have to remove from the frame for charging.

Not had a problem myself but from what I read online, if you have a problem, Fazua will just ask you to plug the drive unit to a PC and send them a diagnostic report. From what I read, they will send a courier to pick up the faulty unit and you will have a working unit through the post in a few days which seem to be a much better solution.

The Link didn’t work above

Thought I will share my latest venture into RC cars.

It’s all started with the Lacia 037 shell that I wanted to put on my XV01. I got it cut up and just about to spray it, then realised the track is way too narrow on the XV01, about 10mm off each side. Then started looking at offset wheels, there are wheels that would fit but just don’t look right. So started looking to 3D printing exactly what I want.

Then I came across this:

The 037 shell got put to one side and got myself an Ender 3 V2 for Christmas.

The chassis is done, wouldn’t say I am 100% happy with the print quality as there were a few teething issue with the printer. Side by side with the CC01 Unimog for size comparison:

The body print is partially done and now getting started with the gearbox. The print quality is improving as I’m getting better with the Ender 3:

And all the failed prints:

Will take quite a bit of time but I think is even more fun than building Tamiya.