I’m a serial rim-killer (overly optimistic about my ability to gap rocky stuff) and went through 4 in as many months at the start of the year. After a recommendation from a BPW coach I swapped to a DT FR541. It’s done nearly 6 months now and is somehow still straight(ish) despite my eye for gaps not getting any better!

I am, unfortunately, an expert on saddle issues and have enough very lightly used saddles to open a warehouse.

Going too wide will cause its own variety of issues – mainly rubbing/chafing between the edge of the saddle and the very top of the back of your leg. It can also compromise your pedal stroke which, on a road bike, will become a niggly injury pretty quickly

Have you tried measuring your seatbones and putting the numbers in one of the many online calculators?

I’ve been knocking about on a Kenevo SL since January. It weighs approx 18kg, and I weigh around 53kg, so if you’re heavier obviously the range you get out of it would be reduced.

I ride with people who have full-fats and they like to run them in a mixture of emtb and turbo modes, which means I’m forced to run mine in Turbo all the time because I don’t have a hope in hell of keeping up with them otherwise!

The best I’ve managed in a single day was 40 miles/65km and 7000ft/2100m of climbing at BPW, using the internal battery and a single range extender. If I was happy/able to run it in eco, the bike would easily manage double that.

If you do get a KSL I recommend trying it as a mullet because it feels like a big old barge of a bike to turn otherwise. Before this I had an Orbea Rise, it was a good bike (until it broke) but it’s not a patch on the KSL in terms of descending capability and general fun factor.

The negative air side of the main air spring piston will be full of grease – it’s a known issue with 38s that they have too much grease from the factory.

A slightly different trajectory to others on the thread, but I went from being a Python SWE to DevOps to essentially being a chief Kubernetes architect. My work now is much more technical and covers a much broader range of the stack, rather than going the slightly-less-technical route that most people do to escape.

I really rate Mons Royale womens gear, you can usually find it with ~50% off on Sigma Sports.

If replacing the battery doesn’t sort it then you may have a dodgy earth — I had the same thing happen with my Defender.

RunGap (https://apps.apple.com/gb/app/rungap-workout-data-manager/id534460198 ) can do this, it’s the only one-click solution to this problem that I’ve been able to find!

It’s only available for iOS devices so if you’ve got an Android I apologise in advance.

I’ve got 2 pairs, they replaced Code RSCs on both my bikes.

I find the power fine in all situations, though I’m not the heaviest at 55kg, and they’re easy to self-service and do general maintenance on. They’re a much nicer feel than SRAM or Shimano in my opinion.

The larger diameter hose was a problem on my Orbea Rise because there’s a plastic hose cover thing where it leaves the frame to go over the motor and then re-enters the rear triangle. Said plastic cover wasn’t large enough for the wider diameter hose so I chucked it in a box and got on with my life. The rest of the internal routing was fine.

My hose cutter really struggled with the Hayes stuff, I think it’s Kevlar lined, but that’s my only complaint!