If the group is just two people, you are not going and they don’t want to carry meths, then they have made their choice. No point trying to convince someone to take gear they don’t feel comfortable with even if it seems to make little sense.

Sounds like a good trip, but riding to Portugal does not warrant a multi-fuel stove in my opinion.

You could suggest this, lightweight gas stove or meths burner with a DIY wind shield that can double up as a twig burner, will cover all the possible options.

Build a fire at every stop, that makes sense……………

How big is the group?
If more than two I suggest you take an Alpkit stove/pocket rocket for brews and noodles, and a Trangia/meths stove for cooking meals.

I have an El Mariachi and love it, and the flexibility it offers.

I’m 5’10” and riding a medium frame. To get the position I want for general riding I have fitted a 17 degree stem turned down, no spacers, and flat bars. For loaded rides I turn the stem up and fit low rise bars instead.

I suggest it would be worth comparing the geometry, stack/reach, between the two frames, and get a test ride if you can.

One specific question about going up hills – do we stay in the saddle at all times or is it possible to stand up and “mash” two up (without crashing, ideally)?

Die-o-meter just went off the red end of the scale.

It will be fun, just don’t get (too) carried away.

What’s the prize?

You can buy small sections of aluminium sheet off of Flea Bay, I’ve used these guys before SGS Metals. User name “sgs132”

Bonding ally can be a pain,

Sikaflex EBT bonds it well and is very flexible, although a big tube (300ml cartridge) for what you need.

High grab and slow cure so don’t expect super glue performance. Usual surface preparation, key the back surface of the ally first, wipe with alcohol, etc

I think the trap is manufacturers shifting units at what people are willing to pay, rather than a hijack. Hijack of the mind maybe. It’s called progress apparently and there is a cost to it.

I have never bought a complete bike, I just swap frames and parts, as the options come up. I enjoy building my own bikes as I’m sure many other people on here do.

As a result i look at new bike reviews just out of interest, to see if something original has been developed.

So I do appreciate the “trickle down technology” and it suits my pocket too. Mind I also have the work flexibility to ride in the week, rather than be spending my Sunday following someone on their bling bike.

The 521s (with eyelets).

Pack the poles separately and change the size.

Genesis Altitude would fit your list if you are looking for second hand. Usually come up quite cheap.

I have the first version in 853 with a Salsa Cro-moto fork. Not sure about the later version with the plate chain-stay.

What’s with the lumpy tubes?

Deuter Speed Lite series are very good, light, strong and cheaper but no bladder included.
I have the 20L version, 10L is on sale at Wiggle for £28.

Have you tried bleeding it?

Gentle blowtorch or vicious hairdryer action.

Hopefully?

dirk_pumpa – Member
I really don’t think I could
No surprises there ey.

Not really, you bike Nazi.

Is this a new set up or was working fine before and now playing up?

All rings will wear with use.

Clutch failure or bent/missing chainring teeth?

I’m not sure how anyone could resist a ride on that ^

are people really that stupid?

Yes

Probably not, but why not get boots that fit the feet?

Just go to the CRC site, it’s on the home page.

Bruce, this is the gamble when buying second hand composite, something could have happened at any time to the bars on the bike, or when fitting controls, maybe with the wrong torque settings.

I still haven’t bought a set of carbon bars myself but no reason not to.

Can you take that argument back to the other thread?

Fair enough, there’s no way not to comment but constructive criticism please.

I feel a signs should be put on both rear quarters of large/long vehicles.

If we are going down the universal route, how about a picture of a cyclist getting squashed under big tyres inside a yellow “EURO” warning triangle would do it?

bluearsedfly – Member
When I get my head round it all, it’s really simple to understand.

The other 97% of the time it makes my head hurt, would love to know why shimano decided to bring out A/B spec.

B is cheaper to make, but still an exclusive design that no one else would tool up for to produce the parts and with B you can fit/replace/remove a shifter without removing the brake lever too.

I think the design job was given to the work experience gang who did good, but still cocked it up.

Hopefully someone said ” just tap a thread into the lever body” at some point but we will never know.

Instead of the simple thing, cut off a small piece of metal, or even in the first place, they redesign the whole lot to get more units shifted.

In the end it’s all about the ride, as long as you buy their gear.

aracer – but do you go out and get your wheels dirty in the argument? can you?
I’m in London, you could live on the Isle of Skye, for all I know.

I think splitting into camps just results in these pointless arguments about semantics.

I resent being labeled a STAY BACK “sticker zealot”.

A short form of cycle training could be taught, to cover the most dangerous positions, but as things stand teaching the complete National Standard course is the only way for a cyclist to be instructed on how best to deal with complex junctions.

aracer +1

aracer –
neilwheel » Something much better, both signage and education, is needed but for now the “STAY BACK” sign seems to be the best on offer.
Well apart from those agreed by LCC or other cycling organisations that is.

Gosh, this is so like the helmet debate, with the sticker zealots reckoning that anything is good and completely ignoring any downsides.

Do you put your wheels where your mouth is?

Don’t see the comparison myself, I ride everyday in London, without a helmet, still, lost for words……………

Something much better, both signage and education, is needed but for now the “STAY BACK” sign seems to be the best on offer.

Don’t put tractor grease in your forks.

Check your spoke tension?

brooess – Member
“I hope that no one on here (THIS FORUM) needs to be told that going up the inside of a tipper truck at a junction is a daft thing to do.”

The general cycling public appear to need to be told, by my observation this week…

I think we agree on that.

It would be good to present a unified front from STW and all the other groups who have an interest on the subject.

Depending how long you have had the forks, and without seeing the problem it’s really hard to give an opinion.

If you are capable with tools then it’s an easy job to drop the lowers. Maybe not the best time for the first time, or to try it out if you’re not sure.

Scratches are unlikely to be a manufacturing problem, which means they likely occurred sometime between leaving the factory and now. Trouble is you can’t prove they have been there any earlier than now.

Do a bit of research, see if anyone else has posted about the same problem. Talk to the dealer if you feel there is a case to argue.

Otherwise some very careful sharp blade use and polishing can reduce the edges of the scratches, again not a job if you are unsure.
Good luck.

Cycling is supposed to equate to freedom, in my mind anyway.

This does not mean cyclists can avoid responsibility either.

National standard for cycle training is in place in many schools and offered to adults by councils.

Cycle training should be compulsory in the driving test.

I think you are talking to the wrong shop.

I used to have an issue using road cleats with a dodgy left knee, due to clipping out on that side only. Swapped around and mostly used right foot down to alleviate the problem.

Common issues are cleat positioning, needing different alignments on each foot and saddle position, as above, too far back is the worst.

Maybe plan shorter rides until you figure out what the problem is.

Yes, that ^ works.

When you see riders, like the one above, doing stupid crap, multiple times per day, it is so stressful to be driving a large vehicle in a busy city.

If you are driving a bus and the cargo are causing issues, it would not be hard to miss that guy.

Every day I see people doing very stupid things riding in London.

Signs like these need to be simple, obvious and direct to get their attention.

I hope that no one on here needs to be told that going up the inside of a tipper truck at a junction is a daft thing to do.

These signs are poor, and the main issue I think, is that they further enable the territorial pissing contest attitude of many commercial drivers.

I’m happy to guerrilla fly post a few vehicles, but don’t cover up the originals, not until a better solution is found.

It’s a very common problem.

B shifter mounts fit either A or B brake levers so you just need to figure out which brake levers you have.

There’s a chart on this thread showing the options.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/i-spec-conversion

I think it’s good you found it now rather than riding Morzine.

Explore all the options, put wanted ads up, good luck.