Do you still have visible damp on the internal face? Sounds like it would have been good to run a dehumidifier in there but probably a bit too late now?

IMO it is better to seal the face of the masonry, if there is a space for moisture or condensation to form on the internal face then it needs to be a vented void or have a system to remove the liquid.

As long as the damp ingress has been sorted, it would be better to seal the face of the masonry then create an isolation barrier. If you go down the drylining route, you could incorporate some insulation. A foil or a rigid 25mm layer between masonry and plasterboard would improve the heating situation, 50mm would be better if you have the spare space. Foil backed plasterboard would also make a difference.

The SBR is good stuff, as above, it’s a synthetic liquid rubber that you used to make waterproof concrete and render. I have used in on damp issues in our basement. You would still need to remove as much of the surface tar before applying anything directly.

The membrane you have linked to is designed to be skimmed on to, there is a cheaper version without the mesh, and you could line with damp resistant plasterboard.

Catch 22, Happy B’day.

If you get it wrong it will go backwards then.

Yes, Fred’s dead.

Pfft!

It’s interesting to know that Portugal is not in Africa.

Can’t we just skip all religion in school?

I think we would need to skip religion altogether then.

Maybe OFSTED the government or the media need to actually define what they mean by radicalisation.

The Media is definitely not capable of making that distinction. Here is an OFSTED report that says these schools are not performing adequately and the Media latches on to the most extreme possible point to get the numbers up.

I would recommend Zinsser, for the base coat. Either the blue or the yellow can (water or oil based). It’s white, or you can tint it, if you are finishing with a light colour it will take a top coat, if going darker you’ll need an undercoat.

It seems a bit pricey to start with but blocks stains and knots, sticks to any surface, high build, easy to work and dries fast.

Take your time, shouldn’t be a problem, in any unit.

Hello Mick, is that an ex-medical oxygen concentrator?

Very unlikely you will be able to get the inner ring off without pulling the cranks.

Ceeway for tube sets, as above, have a trawl through the “What’s new” section too.

Have they put the sign up to try and keep the drive clear, are you parked a little bit too tight to the access?

So they have a drive and want to reserve the space on the road too?

Is this your mini?

I’m glad I bought my carbon paste years back, when it was only 5squids.

Runners are just roadies who have lost their bikes, no wonder they are frustrated.

Nice. That needs to go in the Arrrgghh! My Eye! thread, Shirley?

If it’s proper filthy then rinse off when still wet.

Clean drivetrain with white spirt, rag and brushes, then lube chain.

Fork lube for suspension and dropper post, and then cycle a few times to lift dirt out of seals.

Did you repack your hubs?

The air for combustion is drawn in through the flue.

It’s all about the ‘outliner’ tool – start using groups and components.

Once you have done this you can then create new layers and locate groups there, “furniture 1” for example. This allows you to make different layers visible or not, and lets you try out multiple different layouts.

All drawing MUST be done in the default layer, not the custom layer that you have created.

Yup that’s what I did, it still made it painful, then when I tried to move it I just kept grabbing the edge and changing the size…

You need to make it an “object” it will then become a separate entity within the model.

As above, I would go with a 32T Thick and Thin, Superstar are fine if the budget is tight. You might need to pull the crank out to swap the rings.

There should be enough adjustment on the chain device to take up some of the chain slack, otherwise you will need to shorten it a bit.

You only need planning permission if there is a significant change of size, style or use. Permitted development allows you to make changes up to a certain size, it’s good to know the basic rules as an extra few centimetres can make a big difference.

The Planning Portal website homepage has a guide that shows what is allowed.

Anything affecting boundaries, available light, neighbouring structures and party walls have added restrictions. An architect will be able to help with all of this but is only really necessary if you are making a statement, want to use new technology, have a restricted space or other complications.

If you are replacing existing, without changes, then you don’t need permission but it still needs to be built to the current building regulations. A good builder will know how to achieve this without needing the specifications laid out for them.

Or you could just call Kev, I wouldn’t.

I think one of those Germans is this lady.

That looks very poor.

Have all of the bollards been installed in the same relation to zebra crossings, as in the photo above?

Go and try them on, wearing them 5 or 6 days a week it’s worth spending a bit more if you need to.

I have some Jallatte Siberian boots for, outside all day, really crap weather but probably overkill for what you need.

Shame, that looked interesting.

It’s long, low and slack – what more do you want!?

True, very true, but more colorz needed.

I’m not sure if they should have felled the immature trees or driven over the un-compacted more natural terrain instead?

Worth checking but there is usually lots of meat on the old 5 speed rings and sprockets.

You need a Deore FD M-611 triple mech for 10 speed.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-m611-conventional-3×10-front-mech/rp-prod108832

66-69 degree is standard.

Will work fine with 44T and probably 48T too.
You have to check the overall capacity, touring rings were usually 28-38-48, 24 to 48 will probably be too much range for the cage and a shift from 32 to 48 will not be very smooth either.

It’s not very enduro though.

I think the benefits are more down to not dropping, clogging or sucking the chain, so not really issues for road riding.

Big groups should split, as Crazy-legs said 12 is enough in one group, with a leader for each sub-group who knows the route and arranged stopping points. Just common sense really.

As above, try amalgamating tape, one wrap on frame then another one or two over the cable.

PVA is no good for this job.

Stay calm and be honest or just don’t bother at all. The future is (hopefully) brighter.

Just more evidence that people are judged by their mode of transport.

I think you have both taken my post the wrong way, I was replying to the post above mine without “quotes”, sorry must be my mistake about the context confusion.