Get something completely different? Fixed?

EDIT – That does seem like a specific Shimano part, in your PDF link above, otherwise Hope will be your best bet.

Did you check the Uberbike adaptors?

Any carbon specific bung should fit, Deda, FSA, Kinesis, I think On One do one too.

Fine tooth blade for cutting and some wet and dry to tidy up.

Sounds like an overload to me.

Just put a 6 inch nail in instead, cut down to size, obvs.

No, IANAE.

no probs but can someone tell me if I should go for carbon steerer or alloy steerer please ?

Only difference should be weight and budget?

Only issue with carbon steerer is takes a little more care to cut nicely and will not be happy with sharp edges and an overtightened stem. And needs an expander bung, obviously.

It’s not that uncommon, too much reliance on a small screen in open water.

I think the Gipsy Moth had a very similar incident near Tahiti.

Same as above really, get a small tool bag or toolbox to carry your commonly used tools to the job.

A single pouch is usually plenty for most jobs, with a separate hammer holster on the belt. Anything on that Toolstation link will be fine for DIY. The Plano stuff is good.

How many hammers?

Personally I found Look pedals have too much retention pressure, too much for my knackered knees anyway.

I think this is one of those cases, where, if you have to ask then you should probably do the opposite.

You shouldn’t be able to go too far wrong if you follow the vimeo vid.

Do you have a glamorous assistant though?

It seems that their instructions are either in 57 languages in tiny print or some the obscure web listing by part number only.

Full dealer manual here:

si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-BR0008-00.

Sorted then, nice.

EDIT – Just watched your link, all seems simple enough, no trimming allowed?

Nice they didn’t stick with the prototype version.

No actual real world experience………….but………..should work like a plumbing fitting…..maybe.

An olive is already in the connector, so slack nut off slightly, slide hose in once cut to correct length and tighten nut.

The connector should end up at the stem, not under the bar tape, Shirley?

As above, give them a clean first.

Not sure where the magic is but if you are cooking the front disc you need to change something.

You only need to gain 1.5mm on the radius of the disc.

I’m sure that for 203 front disc a 160 to 180mm PM adaptor will fit, might need a washer as above.

For the rear a standard 160 to 180 PM adaptor.

Will double check later.

Ok, thanks for taking the trouble to look/post. That leaves me needing a 23mm adapter for the front and 20mm for the back, both post to post. Struggling to find Shimano ones that spec, but there are Hope ones that should.

No problem.

I could be wrong, but I think you can use a Shimano 180 post mount adaptor on the forks to fit the 203 rotor. I can double check later today if you’re willing to wait? If you need a little more clearance between edge of rotor and caliper body you can fit a washer as a spacer.

Heal well broken people.

Has she got one leg shorter than the other or just need a wee?

I don’t think it’s a good comparison to check RRP. Obviously they need to correct this if it is a component mismatch.

I do think you need to change the rotors and a 203/180 combo would be best for you.

They don’t look bad, the rear seem to be pitted though and have different colours.
Are the fronts the same to the naked eye?
Is the friction material an equal thickness all over?

I don’t think the issue is with the XT, but it does look like a mismatch with the rotors. I think there is not enough contact between the face of the pad and the rotor. Pads in Hayes brakes may sit a bit lower in the caliper than Shimano, but I’m not sure.

FWIW I have SLX on two bikes with Shimano floating rotors, 180/160 on the more XC one, 203/180 on the more “Gnar” and no complaints at all, riding weight 80kg.

Pulled the pads?

Have you taken them out for an inspection?

The discolouration on the discs is probably due to overheating.

Your original setup should be more than okay, as above, could be contaminated pads so try fixing that first.

The contact area will be fine as long as the pad is not hanging over the edge of the disc.

At 120kg I would definitely consider a 203/180 combination.

EDIT – After seeing your photos, that’s not good and would question that choice of components with the manufacturer.

Have you pulled the pads at all?

Your link lead me to this story.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-29278429

Glad I don’t live in Mexico.

“What do I need to do to get a licence as a foreigner?” I tentatively asked the bespectacled lady behind the desk.

“A copy of your passport, your resident’s card and a recent utility bill,” she rattled off, barely looking up from her computer screen.

“Anything else?” I asked, assuming she was just drawing breath.

“Fill in a copy of this form and pay 677 pesos (that’s about $50/£30) at one of these three supermarkets.”

“That’s it?” If those really were the only requirements, I could have the paperwork done by this afternoon.

“That’s it” she answered firmly, making it clear that if I lingered any further I’d be wasting her time.

I’ve got Yale one too, at home and at parents. On sale a Screwfix at the moment.

Apparently even if the emergency vehicle is going the other way and not even on your side of the road, you must still drop anchor and swerve into the verge….

The commentary specifically says not to do this, maybe it needs a big green tick or a big red cross on the screen?

It’s really not rocket science, the drivers who don’t know what to do in this situation should be forwarded for a driver awareness course.

Working from home…………miss the extra miles. 😥

I have heard of a theory that Blair is the bastard son of Thatcher.

It’s ideal but not necessary, there are so many variables that it’s hard to know what to say without all the details.

Maybe the operator is confident with any machine, maybe he just turns it up to 11.

Is there anyone else in the company with experience and an opinion?

Having a fairly decent standard of reliable bikes is important as we won’t have the time to be forever fixing things (we probably being just me). Just wanted to check as I’ve encouraged a few folk to take up cycling (I’m very pleased about that) who are looking at ways of affording a bike for themselves.

Can you work on them as a project with the new owners? Nothing quite like getting a bag of bits and turning it into something usable again.

When I was involved, one of the local PCSOs was a keen rider and helped to move things along.

It depends how much 20mm bar is involved, a 200a set running on high settings will need a lot of down time, or it will shutdown on overload, if it’s mostly 3mm then it will be fine. Much over 200a and you will need a 3 phase supply.

I have a Cebora DC 200a inverter set, which I picked up at an auction, great machine but I’m not sure I would want to pay full RRP for one, £2K ish.

Inverter-Fusion are local, why not speak to them first and then clear it with the operator before purchase?

Though rather than spending money, would mobiles not do the job? And if you have wifi, skype/google hangouts/facetime audio calls for free?

I’m on a dumb phone, one of the almost indestructible versions, and used it during the first inspection, For the main job there will be many infrequent instructions needed so not ideal.

For mountain use, we used to go in a group, but now mostly just the two of us and sometimes ride different runs and routes. So I’m looking for a back up when we miss each other.

The Baofeng seems to get good reviews and 2w output for £20 a unit. Thanks GFS.

Thanks for input.

For a one off job, I need to be able to communicate over three floors of the same house, with me being in the roof space.

For fun, my GF would need something very simple to operate, usually within the same valley, but possibly outside of line-of-sight.

European use only.

More specs needed, typical material thicknesses, power supply etc.

responsibilty of H&S checks on bikes among other man hour drains

This falls on the recipient.

how do they prove it’s stolen?

Scrote of undesirable character and cannot prove ownership has item confiscated.

The Saints seem to have bearing issues, from a number of posts on here, I have Nukeproof flats myself.

I prefer Tevas, a bit lighter and more durable than the 5:10s, but not as sticky.

As above, skip a ride and learn more skillz instead.

You is a dude. Over and out.

When I was working as an instructor and running bike workshops we used to get mixed bags of frames and parts. These are the ones with little resale value.
Also worth contacting the council about deserted bikes that are removed from stands and railings.

Isn’t your friend looking for these? 😉