If you are going for the Thermarest rather than the big thick air mats, I use a 3/4 mat with a section of old closed cell foam mat to go under your lower legs when sleeping. Then you also have a sit mat and you can use it as a packing aid for the barbag too.

I’ve always liked Rebas, used to be a simple reliable fork but I think I heard quality is not good lately

really? Just told my bro to get some. They arrived yesterday from Germany.[/quote]

I hope not in that case then, I should have put the think more like this, as it’s only a vague recollection and I can’t remember the full details or origin. I assumed the OP would do their own research on that comment and should have been clearer.

OP I think it’s definitely the right tool for the job, I have my bike set up SS and rigid for mostly cruising tow paths and fire roads right now. When the time is right the Rebas will be going back on.

Too much gnarr for the rigid forks eh, bubs.

If you are really giving it the beans then it might be time to put suspension on. I’ve always liked Rebas, used to be a simple reliable fork but I think I heard quality is not good lately. Sids are lighter and have better damping on some models but possibly a little more flexy and obviously more expensive.

If it’s blockwork you are fixing to there should not be any metal apart from ties.

If they are pre-cast sections then there will be rebar in it, in which case you need the multi-material bits.

For the floor chase it would be best with a grinder and diamond blade if the dust is not a problem.
Cut both edges to depth required, and cut again if needed depending on width of channel, then break out with the drill.

How’s it going?

How’s it going?

Any of the big names 2kg drills will perform about the same, as Tinas says, if you want to use core drills you’ll need to go bigger plus you have more breaking power available.

I’d recommend that Bosch, it’s not about overall power but build quality IMO.

When new it was fantastic. Through super hard floor screed, HD blocks, lintels whatever, it would still do the same now just take a fair bit longer. When I say a few years, I mean 6+ years of industrial use, including getting used and abused by my BIL who, for some unknown reason, treats all tools as if each and every one has personally insulted him.

There’s a chance your drill has done its best work. The actual impact force can reduce significantly even though the machine is still making the all the right noises.

I’ve got a 2kg Bosch SDS, the blue one at screwfix for around £100. It’s done a few years of full on, hard use and it’s definitely getting close to replacement time.

The Bosch multi-use bits, as above, and Heller bits from Toolstation are good.

One bark for right a bit, two barks for left.

No photos to add, sorry.

Salsa EM, rigid and SS right now, orange frame, everything else is black, insert backdrop of your own choosing.

Let his tyres down, repeatedly, until he gets the message.

I’m sure Festool will have something to suit.

Lunge, all of what you are feeling, including the anger, is completely natural so don’t be hard on yourself over that.
As above, it’s early days but also good that she is now getting treatment. Try to stay strong but if it’s getting too much seek help for yourself too.

The Evoque with the roof down will probably be the first time adults have travelled in the back seats.
Won’t look too smart if they have to put the top up and there are a couple of bumps in the roof.

That’s tasty, yum, yum.

That’s a shame you can’t ride but what you say is very true, a solo ride or walk is meditation in itself.

DMR kit with tensioner and 16T sprocket.

CRC

You don’t need a N/W ring, i think someone linked to cheap On-One SS rings recently.
A sprocket and spacer kit for the hub.

You might get lucky with a magic gear where the ring, sprocket and chainstay length work perfectly for the chain length, but most of the time you will need a tensioner. Better to push up on the chain to increase sprocket wrap rather than down and avoid the sprung ones.

If you go with an external BB you can use a Blackspire Stinger or similar for a tensioner. Get a ISCG to BB adaptor and then have the stinger tucked up behind the chainring.

I’m down in the dirty south myself.

This is worth a look, only needs 10 minutes a day.

https://www.headspace.com/

MrO, you are **** amazing, no two ways about it. I don’t know anything more about your situation than you have posted here obviously, is there any additional help you can get to lighten the load a little bit?

Mosey, I’m taking three different meds myself right now due to long term MH issues. You need to find the right one for you. Do you have a good relationship with your GP? If not then find one who will work with you better.

I’ve been going through some pretty rough times lately too.

If the meds you are being prescribed don’t suit you then you need something else. I’m afraid it’s a bit of a lottery as everyone reacts differently. Remember that you don’t have to be taking pills forever, just for now.

Try to be both long sighted and short sighted, pick the one that suits you best at that point in time and shut the door on the other. One day at a time is probably best right now, make a plan for each day to do just a little bit more tomorrow than the day before. Don’t aim too high, you will be bound to fail taking big steps right now. Remember the end goal, when the time is right, to be fit, to take care of your partner, have fun and get the best that you can out of life.

Don’t be hard on yourself, you can get through this, best wishes. Neil.

Anyone who wants to keep steel real should go through the Framesaver experience at least once in their life. 😀

In reality, for the 1/2 hour of time and a few quid, why wouldn’t you?

If you’re the curious type, wear safety glasses too.

Does anyone know the seatpost diameter for the latest Kona Unit?

I like Blackspire too, there’s the Bruiser, as above, or the Trail 1x with a top guide. You would have to be full-on gnarrcore to need a full guide.

I think trying to warranty that is taking the piss.

It can be repaired and fit some protection, ride on.

That’s not normal.

I have one, it’s worked fine for years on road and MTB tyres, without any blowback feature.

I have always managed to get reasonable to good performance from cantis. I happily used Tektro 720s on my London commuter bike for a few years, I think that a lot of toe in on the pads was needed, you could try that if you haven’t already. For overall power the best i used were TRP 950s, I have not used Ultimates for a comparison.
If you are having trouble getting a good set up with the 720s, it might be best to go with the Shimanos as the straddle angle is already set for you, so one less variable.

And a new BB standard to go with it.

Good job your not running a double then.

That’s right, the same one as in your Bike-Discount link.

EDIT – And that one above at SJS.

They only made I-spec A for a year or two so, in their infinite wisdom decided to stop supplying those parts.

If you need I-spec A fixings I think you can get them.

Look at the shape of the brake lever, B is at the top, A below.

Different dog breeds do different jobs.

The only job for domestic cats is catching rodents, so there’s no sense in breeding a hard to train animal any larger than it needs to be.

You need to know why it is being re-homed, it’s medical history and if it’s been neutered.

Research the breed yourself, assuming it has one, and check if there are any common problems, behavioural issues or hereditary defects to look out for.

If all the above seem acceptable, make arrangements to visit the dog in it’s home and spend some time there. Be prepared to leave without the dog if it does not seem to be suitable for you.

I don’t have a problem with her driving.

The cyclist is a knob.

You are right, I don’t have any parts to measure but a quick estimate of the taper gives about 1.5mm overall, so an extra 0.75mm each side to play with.

Yes, there should be a small even gap between each pad and the disk. I suggest you might want to figure out the make and model of the brakes and search for the service manual online, youtube might also have some useful videos for you.

You can get noises resonating through the tubes of the frame.

Pull the brake lever while looking at the caliper to make sure the pads are moving. The disc is easily cleanable, even scrubbing with plenty of hot soapy water will get them clean. Or get brake cleaner from Halfords, Toolstation etc.

If the pads are lightly contaminated then you might save them, if heavy then just fit new ones and bed them in properly. If the bikes getting a lot of use then you might as well buy packs of pads on the web from Uberbike, Superstar Components etc.

It makes sense that it would be limited to 1 degree. A tapered steerer, at 40mm diameter, is a reasonably tight fit in 44mm headtube. Obviously you need to reserve some of that 2mm difference for the wall thickness of the cup.

Best not to drill carbon, if you have to then better as close to the shifters as possible and then run under the tape, this will also give you nicer curve to the stops.