You don’t need Festo extraction for Festo tools, my rail saw and router have the same level of dust collection using my workmates festo machines or using my own.

I agree that you should be wearing additional breathing protection, as above. Even a P2 or P3 disposable would be better than not,and sealed eyewear too if you are sensitive to the fibres.

The Festool machines are over rated and over priced(IMO, and I have used a few), a style over substance product. Capacity is not great for the size of the machines and the hose storage is a faff.

I have a Trend T30 which is bagless, and a Nilfisk 20l, both are robust and work well for a lot less cost than the Festo version, with the Nilfisk much cheaper again than the Trend. The Nilfisk is a good machine but came with both lead and hose that are too short, I adapted a longer hose to fit, parts are much harder to find compared with the Trend but large (George?) Numatic Hepa bags fit, are cheap and filter well. It does both wet and dry using the same filter which is plastic mesh.

You only need to watch the footage to know that is a big load of bullshit.

Have a read of this first

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/how-can-a-bigger-battery-correct-voltage-damage-components

(Not a mower or auto electrician.)

Scaffold boards are pretty cheap for decent timber. You used to be able to buy used boards but it’s mostly just new stock now. You can buy new or used tube for not too much, but the only way to do a tidy job of the frame is with Kee Clamp which racks up the cost quickly. If you can weld have a look at doing the frame in steel box section.
You could look on ebay for a complete kitchen that’s being stripped out and salvage units and worktop.

You can ride to Epping up the Lee towpath, it’s about 10 miles.
BMX track in Haggerston park, just off the Regents canal towpath at Broadway Market, cross the bridge and head south.
There’s calisthenic bars and some nice concrete bowls in the Stratford corner of Victoria Park.
Mile End climbing wall on the towpath just south of Victoria Park.

And when we were hunter/gatherers, we were all on flexi-time, worked from home and averaged 15 to 20 hours per week.

OP, and anyone else struggling with mental health, ask for some help, do it tomorrow, please.

It’s not real, it’s just a crap advert.

If you have got a hose clamp in a suitable size, put that on as a splint.

We have one of these gangs near us, I’m in Islington, I see the same kids over and over, completely obvious and blatant illegal riding. I call up if I know they are at their usual hangouts, and call 999 if I see them getting prepared for the muggings. They even come back to the same places after going on the rob, the police just can not get here in time or arrive with enough people to box them in. And so the game continues…..

They have all been self serving useless shits.

For anyone scared of bears, watch this………….

Bearwalker of the Northwoods

Fair enough, to both above. I’m not talking about some conceptual form of protection where there is no risk involved. Totally agree with your last point DK. Peace, out.

Maybe read the post above. Writing skills are not great right now, or anytime really, as on painkillers. It should read “can be” instead of “are”

Have you got a better, realistic solution, or do you think it’s feasible for every copper to go through firearms training?

The spray with dye in it will block vision through a mask.

Kilo, good to know you guys are getting additional training. All your points taken onboard, but maintaining distance is one major aspect, as I’m sure you know, and that is very difficult with a baton. Maybe a more ergonomic design of spray can be rapidly brought into use, similar to the one US riot police use.

Are all coppers trained for the use of pepper spray, or whatever the latest equivalent is? If not, they should be, and should have been after the Parliament attack.

I feel that all those serving on the streets should be issued with more than a baton, a spray is effective against someone with a bladed weapon.

If you can put up a stud wall then it’s not much more skill involved to build a shed. Most simple design is a single pitch roof. Sketch a plan, and make a cutting list, cut accurately, tick off list and mark timber pieces as you go.

Use decking screws, the green phosphate coated ones. You can get nice chunky ones with a Torx head for the main joints, where frames come together.

Put your frames (Floor and Walls) together in a clear space. Get the first one squared and fixed, measuring diagonals is easier than checking each corner. Use this frame as a template to work on top of, you then have at least the first corner set up for you. Build rest of frames, obviously symmetrical frames should be built one on top of the other.

Level the floor, bolt or coach screw the corners, chuck a roof on and then clad with your chosen material, hang door.

Drink beer.

Well done, first step is the biggest. Just try to take small steps, not try to fix everything, all at once. Do nice things for yourself every day, enjoy the weekend.

Morning, I hope you have already been on the phone to your GP.

Don’t freeze raw veggies, the water damages the cellular structure as it expands, resulting in limp and soggy when thawed.

Sounds like you need to talk to someone, if you can’t unload on someone you already know, then I suggest you try a counselling service. I’ve just got back from mine. See a GP ASAP, tell them how you feel now, not all the back history, they will offer medication, it’s then your job to do some basic research and decide if you want to try the medication or not. If you are anywhere near Epping forest and fancy a bimble, let me know.

If you are car camping then DPM plastic is perfect. Cut to exact size, fully waterproof, resistant to punctures, easily repaired with duct tape, and cheap as chips if you ever need to replace

I think Wera are fine for general use, cheap as chippies.

As above, I also prefer using 1/4″ hex bits, decent driver handle that you can fit a 1/4″ square drive ratchet handle to the top end, if you need the extra leverage. The driver parts should last forever and replace bits as they wear.

Ignore the second link that I posted, you need a specific gun to use that one.

Read the instructions………….

It’s a two part resin which is mixed in the nozzle, so they are one use only, you might want to buy a spare nozzle or two. Remove the nozzle from the cartridge, clean the end and put the cap back on to save the rest for further use.

Enjoy the ride OP.

You met some people with crap attitudes, if you had told them that and rode off, there’s a small chance that they might have thought about it, discussed it, and saw you as the betterer man.

The way you dealt with it means that your just “that old tosser on a motorbike” to them now.

If the hole has not been cleaned there will be enough friction from dust to require a hammer to fit the anchors.

OP best bet is to pull the bolts and inspect the threads, if they look good, then try to save these anchors. Use something like an old spoke or a skewer to break up the dust in the bottom of the hole, it will be compacted now. Blow or suck out the dust, measure hole depth and compare to the bolt length, you should also be able to feel how deep the cone is set too. If you need to cut down the bolt, do a nice cut and put a chamfer on the end, make sure the thread is clean and free from burrs.

If all this fails, then don’t go and drill new anchors next to these ones, when you fits the second set, the force might crack through and it will not be secure.

If you have mangled the bolts and they cant be removed then the last option would be to fill the gap under the ground anchor. Clean out any dust then pumping in some resin for fixing studs in masonry. It will set rock hard and bond to metal and masonry.

Like these, check but should fit into a normal cartridge gun.

Resin
Resin

If they are sleeve anchors then you should be able to get them to unseat. Back the bolt off a few turns, give the head a gentle tap, this will drive the expander cone back down. Repeat this and keep giving them a wiggle until they can be lifted out.

Post a stock pic of the type of anchor bolt if you like?

As above, you could remove the bolts, blow out the dust, and if you need to, trim a bit off the length to get it to sit down properly.

A basic set should be fine for that, keep it simple and there is less to go wrong. The more programmable it is the more chance of a board getting frazzled. You might want to look at second hand machine of a decent brand if it has a known history and an honest seller. I can’t recommend any of the cheap brands though, sorry.

Check for duty cycle in the specs, this is the amount of time a set will run for at a given rating before the machine will cut out to avoid over heating.

Make sure it has a decent airflow and not sending grindings into the machine casing will help avoid breakdowns.

Buy decent quality rods and store them in an airtight container. This will have a significant effect on the quality of weld.

I have a Cebora that is dual MMA/TIG set, and a ESAB Caddy for MIG which can also be set up for brazing. Both good machines but neither were cheap and there would be some risk buying used.

As always the answer is, it depends……

What sort of process do you want to use?
Which material(s) and what thicknesses?

Also, do you have any welding experience?

Sorry, not that exciting, i just like the shipwright’s style and enthusiasm.

Anybody else still watching?

Conrad Colman was dismasted off the coast of Portugal and has just spent four days hove to, to jury rig his boat. Back under way now, 700Nm to go at 3 or 4 knots.

Start with a small section and see what you’ve got. Cut in with a knife either side, thin scraper down behind to see if it’s bonded.

You can buy moulding pry bars just for this kind of job.

If you wanted to plate over a butt join, as in your sketch, it would be better to use metal for the plates instead of wood. If you can’t get steel/stainless steel flat or plate locally then metals4u or ebay would have short lengths delivered.

Better to cut the timbers at an angle, as in a scarph instead of a butt joint, and treat the existing wood with rot treatment and wood hardener if needed..

Another option would be to cut the existing timber into either a lap joint or a tongue. Then make the new part from either 2 or 3 pieces of timber. Foaming PU glue, Everbuild Lumberjack or similar, and stud/bolt through.

Not sure if either of these options would satisfy a building inspection.

I went on Saturday.

You can usually find deals on Wild Country tents, as TN’s cheaper sister.

You see that big black pole next to the sign, i think that might be a street light.

Ethnic Group
250 White
–8 Mixed Ethnicity
–5 Indian
–4 Bangladeshi
–4 Other Asian
–6 Black African
–5 Black Caribbean
–6 Other Black
-13 Other
301 Total

Country of Birth
197 England
–4 Wales
–4 Scotland
–2 Northern Ireland
-14 Republic of Ireland
-23 European Union
-57 Other
301 Total

1916 crimes reported in November 2016. 👿

Is there a prize?

Chewkw, maybe you should go down to the mosque with your question?

Yes, Graham, I have seen it with my own eyes.

For Chewkw, Aniconism in Islam

I think you’ve both got Selective Reading Disorder.