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New Second Generation Geometron G1: Even More Adjustable
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nealyFree Member
Black & Decker Pivot Dustbuster, has made cleaning up after kids much less of a chore.
nealyFree MemberMetal bikes are not indestructible as I have proved! It’s already been posted in this thread but I’ll post it again
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/santa-cruz-bicycles-test-lab.html
nealyFree MemberGood to know carbon can be fixed if it breaks as I’ve just bought a C456
nealyFree MemberI want to convert my xc bike to 1*10 speed, it is currently set up single speed.
Not sure whether to get a zee or slx rear mech both in shadow + version, prefer the look of the zee, but which will work best? it will be with an SLX shifter as it cheapest.
The rest will be slx cassette 11-36, slx shifter, kmc chain, deore chain set and 36t middle ring, superstar chain guide- BB mount or seat tube mount?
Will all this fit together and work fine?Also can i use my standard middle chainring, or will i need a single specific?
Thanks in advance
Gabe
That’s exactly the set up I’m planning on getting for my bike!
I know people who have bought a Zee shadow plus (clutch) mech for 1×10 and are happy with it, I believe it’s SLX level quality so may as well get the Zee as it’ll have a shorter cage but as has been said make sure you get the right version to fit your cassette.
The people I know with the BB mount Superstar guide are happy with them but the MRP guide is only a tenner more so…
On One do stainless steel 1x specific chainrings for £20 http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CROOSS/on_one_stainless_chainring
nealyFree MemberFogtech is the only stuff that properly works without turning into a terrible smeary mess. Get the bottle as although the wipes can be used a few times they dry out before you come to use them again.
nealyFree MemberAs well as warm wool socks, shoes not too tight and overshoes I’ve recently replaced my insoles with Woly Astro Therm insoles which have helped a bit.
nealyFree MemberAnd then, if that fails, it’s Bear Grylls time.
You’re doing it wrong, it’s meant to go on the frozen part not in your mouth.
nealyFree MemberMiddleburn cable oilers are the shizzle, they make it very quick and easy to clean, lube and remove water from the cables making them like new. You need to lube the mechs too but it’s the cables that are usually the cause of the problem.
nealyFree MemberBuy a funnel…
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=34710
…and some oil.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=663Follow the instructions linked below paying particular attention to steps 8 and 9.
Do this, very easy and it works.
If you want better value then buy Motul LHM Plus Fluid from ebay instead of the Shimano rebranded stuff (it’s the same), get a 50ml syringe from ebay/chemist and some plastic air stone tube from a pet shop.
nealyFree MemberGear oil is a better option for freehubs in very cold weather as even a small amount of grease can become too thick and stop the pawls engaging.
nealyFree MemberChoc Yazoo for the long life option.
This
Check the nutritional content compared to other recovery drinks.
nealyFree MemberTight glutes and hamstrings are often the cause of back pain for cyclists. When I found out about this and tried stretching them for the first time I was surprised how little flexibility they had, I’ve been stretching them for a little while and it is lessening the back pain.
nealyFree MemberPosted 11 years agonealyFree MemberMore info that pulling up isn’t necessary.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Which-Muscles-are-Really-Used-During-the-Pedal-Stroke-2012.html
Just do whatever feels natural with foot angle although heel down takes strain off the smaller calves letting the larger upper leg muscles do the work and keeps your legs relaxed letting you ride smoother.
nealyFree MemberI phoned them this afternoon to check when they would be returning my wheels for free that they were truing for free which they received last Thursday, they picked up straight away and told me they were sent today so I’ll get them on Monday. Of course if there’s no haribo on the box I’ll complain on the Internet even though I don’t like haribo.
nealyFree MemberNealy – yep same one. Did you have to shave anything off the headtube? A reviewer on the SS site mentions radiusing the corners on the headtube slightly to allow for a bit of chamfer on the cup.
Nope I didn’t modify anything, just greased the headtube insert and cups with copper grease and pressed them in. Looking at the SSC cups (below) they are square rather than having a chamfer. There is only a couple of mm gap between the top of the cup and the lip of the insert on the lower cup.
nealyFree MemberUsing a headset press I’ve just fitted a brand new one of the below in a brand new 18″ carbon 456 no problems and both cups are completely flush with the headtube with no gap.
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=425
HTH
nealyFree MemberSoap flakes dissolved in jug of boiling water, pour in machine and wash, tumble dry on LOW heat to reactivate DWR.
Spray on waterproofer is meant to work better than wash in and I’ve found it works great plus spray on should only be used for soft shells and anything else that isn’t a hard shell.
nealyFree MemberAll this started because the OP needed to replace the bearings which can easily and cheaply be done without touching the cups as he later worked out. It sounds like it’s not an uncommon issue for a few frames but the solution is the same, stick in vice and remove. New headsets are £30/£40 so not really seeing the problem here…unless you needed to remove a CK headset.
nealyFree Member£6 from screwfix http://www.screwfix.com/p/cable-cutters-150mm-6/27403
Cut through inners and outers like butter and don’t break a sweat on chunky garage door cables, I know a few people with these and all recommend them.
nealyFree MemberYes plus you get an extra discount code if you sign up for their news letter
nealyFree MemberYou really need to clean it first with IPA (search ebay 70% isopropyl alcohol from shiny hardware) to remove all traces of grease and any dust etc. Then do what Stumpy said but I would definitely recommend spraying the frame, heli tape and hands with water (and a drop of fairy liquid) so you can reposition the tape and squeeze any bubbles out. It’s a time consuming and tricky job but if you’re careful then you can hardly see the tape once it’s done
Also, don’t put it on a carbon On One as they’re officially not resistant to the glue.
Oops, I’ve just put a lot of heli tape on my brand new C456! Ah well, it’s proper 3M stuff so will last and if it ever needs removing I’ll have to get it resprayed…which kind of makes the tape pointless.
nealyFree MemberPragmasis from Security for bikes (13mm is most suitable) or Almax chains with squire lock, from the videos I’ve see All other chains can be cut in under a minute so are a waste of money
http://securityforbikes.com/products.php?cat=Ground+Anchor%2C+Chain+and+Lock+Deals
nealyFree MemberThat’s for a 44mm headtube and yours looks like a 34mm headtube, I don’t think you can get zerostack headsets for 34mm headtubes.
nealyFree MemberThe wider the better for rims to improve tyre profile and volume, stiffer/stronger is also a bonus. Unless you’re mincing about it’s not worth saving the weight.
nealyFree Memberlittle alu plate near the NDS dropout iirc.
[edit] on the inside of the stay I think.
This…the dropout may be covering it
nealyFree MemberI’ve had my Tech 2 AM 135 wheelset for a year and would recommend them. They’ve been true apart from when I’ve crashed (very) hard but both times I made use of their free truing service so only cost £11ish to send them back via Parcelforce then they returned them for free a week later. The bearings in mine lasted 6 months before they felt rough and the front developed some play but a full replacement set of EZO bearings from Katec on ebay cost £35 and was easy to fit using a screwdriver and hammer. I knew the bearings weren’t going to be the best quality but they don’t last for ever in any wheels and they’re easy to replace.
Both mine came with normal QR adapters, the front weighed 1019g and the rear 1100g so a bit over the stated weight but not too much. I’ve since swapped to their 9mm and 10mm adapters and bolt thru QR’s which I’d receommend from new if you’ve got normal dropouts.
nealyFree MemberDon’t be soft getting bike specific mineral oil, LHM oil is the same stuff
nealyFree MemberHere you go, £34 for headset and additional crown race for 1 1/8 steerer
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=539
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=478
Superstar headsets are good but in fairness they’re mostly all just aluminium cups to hold standard cartridge bearings.
nealyFree Memberepicbleedsolutions but as it doesn’t need a cup thing for the reservoir then just get a 50ml syringe and some aquarium air stone tube from a pet shop.
nealyFree MemberAlso recently got a Hylix one for the road bike, which weighs nothing at all but I reckon the tilt adjust is more or less the same as my old Thomson was. Maybe slightly more but not drastically.
I was thinking about getting one of these for my new C456 but not ordered it yet, any views on strength of if for mountain biking?
nealyFree MemberSee below for the email flyer, look very good but would be more interested in the AM version out next year.
http://us1.campaign-archive1.com/?u=47be77cfbe242db57684a7057&id=e468b0c71c&e=c8642a9dfe
Superstar Sentinel Tubeless Rims
We’re proud to introduce our first Superstar branded tubeless ready rim, the Sentinel. Suitable for tough trail riding and XC this lightweight tubeless ready rim is a perfect partner for our 21mm tubeless tape and valves kit to create a high performance trail busting wheelset:Just 390g per rim (26″), 1625g as a prebuilt wheelset with Tesla hubs and Sapim D-light spokes for £220
Sleek laser etched logos for the minimalist look
Available in 26″, 650b or 29″ versions
Ultra tall profile for maximum stiffness with minimal weight
21mm internal width with our Lok-R bead gripper for tubeless use
Available in black, red, gold, navy, electric blue, green, purple oh and white!
29″ rims availible in black, red, gold, navy and white. 650b in black for now.
Rims start from £39.99 and full wheelbuilds from £220. Need more girth? Look out for an AM version of this rim coming in Spring 2013!nealyFree MemberHope not nealy , otherwise they are like an armadillo …. Hard on outside soft on the inside.
Better than a Dime bar, smooth on the outside and crunchy on the inside…I like armadillos!
Anyway…see below some facts about metallurgy from here > http://www.almax-security-chains.co.uk/index.asp?pg=26
Through Hardening – This is a by-product of case hardening and is NOT A GOOD thing, for a security product, as it makes the material BRITTLE. Yes you can make metal very, very, hard, however the harder it is the more brittle it becomes. This leaves the chain susceptible to thieves, utilising sudden shock impact methods to breach the chain. To ensure that this does not occur, very precise measurements of various elements have to be used. We make sure that every chain, almax manufacture keeps it’s ductile core. We do not through harden our chains.Case Hardening – This is where the metal has a ‘case’around it, which is harder than the inside. This is done in large ovens, heating the material, to strict temperatures, for exact timings whilst adding various elements. We cut no corners, at any stage of manufacture, this means using more man hours, which is more expensive but it’s only by ensuring that every link, has exactly the right case hardening, every time, do you obtain an Almax quality product.
Plating – This is the final process on the chain. Our chains are plated by hand with zinc, and then we increase corrosion resistance by passivating them. They are then immediately de-embrittled, this gives maximum protection. If any of these steps are missed, This can make the chain susceptible to either impact or pressure attacks. We at Almax have put procedures into place to ensure that the plating of our chains is done to the most exacting standard. Which again is more expensive, but the only way to produce the quality, that is the Almax chain.nealyFree Membernealy the chain is the same type in that link you posted ie 13mm links and Hardened steel!
Pragmasis and Almax chains are case hardened rather than through hardened which makes them virtually uncroppable, the Xena chain just says it’s hardened so I’m assuming its the same as all the other sold secure gold chains and can be cut in a minute. See the videos on the Almax website to watch them being cut.
Of course they could just cut your bike in half!!
nealyFree MemberIf it’s a On One Smoothie Mixer headset for a C456 then you could just replace the bearings
Top http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=282
Bottom http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=439
Or SSC do a full headset for £40 but check out what Northwind has suggested first http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=425
nealyFree MemberCan anyone suggest a padlock to go with the Xena chain?
Squire SS65CS or SS50CS but as has already been said it’s not a very good chain so you might as well use any cheap lock.
IMO this is the minimum required to stop opportunist and all bu the most determined serious thieves.
http://securityforbikes.com/proddetail.php?prod=Torc1-P13-x.x-SS50CS