http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=439

This, as with all new bearings pop the seals off and fill with grease before installing

Uberbike BB’s have replaceable bearings and top hat seals so are probably 6805, you could email them to ask what size they use?

I emailed Uberbike and got this reply…

“The stainless steel BB bearings are 6805 and top hats are available at £3 each”

…so these BB’s are an option

Uberbike BB’s have replaceable bearings and top hat seals so are probably 6805, you could email them to ask what size they use?

I had a terrible mould problem in the shed at my old house as it was built like a lean-to so all the ground moisture was getting into it and no amount of ventalation holes or waterproofing paint solved it. Fixed it completely by installing a solar vent in the roof similar to the below which although doesn’t have a battery it draws enough air through the day to get rid of the mould. You can get them online or a boat chandlers

http://www.firststopsolar.co.uk/gm712-solar-ventilator-19-p.asp

Read this

http://securityforbikes.com/wooden-shed-security-advice.php

You could try Grangers Superpruf

http://www.grangers.co.uk/product.cfm?cat=12&productid=7

Gorilla tape

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-Tape-1-inch-Handy-Roll/dp/B001E5ZWT4/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Superstar headsets are good based on the two I’ve got. Have you lost a cup? The Crown race, upper compression ring and bearings can be replaced.

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=61&page=1&sort=3a

If you’re really bothered

http://www.amazon.co.uk/No-More-Excess-Advanced-Digital/dp/B001E49688/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1360168004&sr=1-1

It’s very easy especially if you’re just changing the oil in the lowers but a full service and seal change is far from difficult

Fogtech http://www.visorvision.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=25

It’s the only stuf that works and doesn’t smear, get the bottle as the wipes dry out too quick to reuse them.

Superstar bearings are fine, pop the seals off and fill full of grease before you fit them. Clean and regrease them a couple of times a year or just replace when muck gets in and finally knackers them.

Have a read

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/cracked-your-carbon-frame-dont-chuck-it-%e2%80%94-send-it-to-this-guy

£8, job done http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=439

Helly Hansen LIFA is polypropylene and they are brilliant, without doubt the best base layers I’ve ever used as they keep you much drier

So you care enough to spend a hundred quid on a machine but 10 minutes kneading and 5 minutes shaping is beyond you?

It was £70 and yes I’m far to busy internetting to knead dough and wait for it to prove

Use zip ties to fix it to the fork brac and legs, you can pull them tighter than the velcro giving more clearance and they are also lower profile than the velcro

Lol at the photos, for the proper artisan look they need to be in a basket lined with unbleached cotton.

Take the dough out of the machine if you need to shape it and spray it otherwise wait for the beeps and tip it out, daily fresh bread doesn’t have to be pretentious.

The rapid setting is ok but the normal setting is loads better. Looks like you’ve done a decent job at slicing it but I’m rubbish so use a dangerously sharp knife and a loaf slicing guide.

See if you can get a free recipe book

http://www.panasonic.co.uk/html/en_GB/Products/Kitchen+Appliances/Panasonic+Bread+Makers+-+Free+Book/5414022/index.html

Also

http://theideaskitchen.co.uk/bakery/

Snapfish – great quality and priced the same as all the other online printers but not sure how big they print.

Point101 – professional gallery quality and well priced

Sebo K1, very powerful and built like a brick out house

Panasonic
/thread.

This

Also use Allinson Premium Very Strong Bread Flour

Alpinestars Al-Mega DX :D

I’ve just got Tacx T4080 from Rose and they come with three different adaptors (1 big hole, 1 little hole & 2 little holes). Worked with my 2010 X9 mech and will work with the earlier 2 hole type. They seem very good quality with nice cartridge bearings and work great.

http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/tacx-derailleur-wheels-t4080/aid:254487

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a3175/t4080-jockey-wheels-sram.html?lg=en&cr=GBP&cn=gb

SP41 cable outer comes pre lubed with Shimano’s special silicone grease so when I’m fitting new cables I use Servissol silicone grease to lube the outers and inners. The rest of the time I use Middleburn cable oilers and silicone spray lube to keep them like new

I like Rock n Roll grease and lube, not the cheapest but it works well.

http://www.evanscycles.com/categories/tools-maintenance/lubes-cleaners/f/rock-n-roll#!!price_from=;price_to=;on_sale=;sort=asc;

Indeed, zero stack top but need external lower.

Superstar Components do one for £28 that comes with two fork crown races for standard and tapered steerers

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=539

Sanyo Enelop[ all the way, I usually get mine on Amazon but just search and pick the cheapest.

My Elixir R’s were a right pain. Inconsistent lever feel and sticking pistons causing pads to constantly rub and wear sintered pads out stupid quick. They went back to SRAM to be fixed but weren’t so eventually I got my money back in vouchers and bought Shimano SLX M675 which are totally awesomesauce. Ridiculously easy to set up, loads of pad retraction so no rubbing, great feel and looooooads of power…so much so I’m downsizing my front rotor.

Mastering Mountain Bike Skills book is really good, I keep going back to it to read up on different stuff and it always proves to be spot on.

The below video has been surprisingly useful for me and it’s quite funny from about 2 minutes in, basically point your light saber where you want to go.

http://vimeo.com/41187732

The rest of the videos and more of the excellent Fabien Barel techniques and a couple of others

If you’re thinking of direct from Germany how about a Radon Slide 150 9.0. Fox CTD Adjust both ends, X0/X9 drivetrain and Formula T1 brakes (i.e.not frickin Avids). It’s stated as 1/2 kg lighter too

http://www.radon-bikes.de/xist4c/web/Slide-150-9-0_id_22299_.htm

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k1867/a78661/slide-150-9-0.html

Actually I’ve just remembered you’re the guy who sold me a set Reba’s with a steerer shorter than stated and scratches on the “unmarked stanchions”!

Maybe it’s just a tiny bit of karma

So you sold the bike and shipped it to the buyer without the headset bearing therefore presumably selling it not as described?

Another 3 x 8 although don’t use the big ring unless on road and the granny only gets called into action when I’m having a bad day. Will go 1 x 10 at some point but nowt wrong with the gears at the moment

The original version is 184mm and the new version is 213mm

Another option, ceramic for £7 each. No idea what thy’re like though

http://www.bearings-online.co.uk/item/Brand_Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearings_61902-2RS-Ceramic_0_0_2405_0.html

I got the below from Tesco 4 years ago and it’s still working which can’t be taken for granted plus it makes nice coffee and keeps it hot for 2 hours. I love coming downstairs in the morning to fresh coffee rather than faffing about making it half asleep then waiting for it to percolate

http://www.tesco.com/direct/prestige-50669-deco-digital-black-coffee-maker/200-0411.prd?skuId=200-0411&pageLevel=sku&_requestid=80232

I got a full front and rear set for £35 from Katec/Keasea on ebay (they were EZO bearings) and they’re all running smooth 6 months later, in fact I recently picked the seals off the bearinsg I could reach to check them and they were all uncontaminated proving the seals are working. Cheap bearings have poor tollerances but more importantly poor seals so get SKF, INA, FAG, EZO (from Katec)

This is how you change the front bearings, the rear are easy…

Pull the end cap adapters off which will leave the bearings and the inner half of the end caps still in place. Using a drift/screwdriver/socket extension etc and hammer knock out a bearing and end cap still in the hub by pushing the spacer between the bearings down to compress the o-ring so you can get the drift on the edge of the bearing then do the same for the other bearing. It’s best to press the bearings in place but I used an old bearing on top of the new bearing and carefully knocked it in with a hammer, even if you do use a press make sure you push on the outer race of the bearing as applying too much force to the inner race will damage them. Make sure all the spacers and end caps go in with the o-rings seated correctly which can be a bit tricky if the o-rings have magically grown like mine had.

http://db.tt/D3vUOJEb

http://db.tt/2vZUIP8s

http://www.youtube.com/user/Milanslav

http://www.novatec.com.tw/novatec/english/p_show.php?sid=280

http://www.novatec.com.tw/novatec/english/p_show.php?sid=278

I got that light plus a spare battery from lightmalls and both battery packs are garbage although I do get nearly 3 hours hooked up together with a y splitter if I use low mode on slow stuff. The modes aren’t great really as there’s not a huge difference between medium and high but it’s still a properly bright light.

A pack with decent cells is a must, the below is good

http://www.magicshine.co.uk/batteries/rear-bicycle-light-max-85lm-mj-818.html

Also some privacy window film (DC Fix (Milky) sold at B&Q for £7 a roll) on the inside of the lens smooths out the hotspot nicely as it does for any light, see below

3*T6 light on low mode (1 LED) without diffuser lens

3*T6 light on low mode (1 LED) with diffuser lens

I got a spare 4 cell pack from Lightmalls (DX alternative) and it was even more rubbish than the pack that came with my light. Magicshine use decent quality cells so get the below 6 cell pack that comes with an adapter to fit chinese lights

http://www.magicshine.co.uk/batteries/rear-bicycle-light-max-85lm-mj-818.html