Just use Gorilla tape on the rim and Superstar valves, no need for the ghetto tube when you use the coke bottle inflator

It’s a while since I’ve been up Garburn. If the Troutbeck side has been repaired/sanitised as suggested, then I’d be inclined towards hardtail

Troutbeck side has had all the drops filled in and smoothed out with slate rocks so is a very fast fairly easy descent, riding up wouldn’t be that hard I imagine.

Kentmere side is covered edge to edge from top to bottom in loose fist size rocks, would be fun coming down but isn’t rideable up.

I’m doing it on my not very light 115mm HT which is what I was on when I rode round there recently, it’s not that techy so use whichever bike will be easiest to push up Garbun Pass…anyone who can clear that with no dabs is an alien or lying.

2.25 Smorgasbord isn’t much smaller than the 2.4 Chunky Monkey and both are great tyres, I’ve recently read a comment from Brant saying that the Chunky Monkey isn’t solely for front use so I’ll be sticking one on the back when the Smorgasbord wears out.

http://www.fastlinecoatings.co.uk/

In Preston and have been recommended for bikes multiple times

Yazoo Choc milk

Virtually identical to For Goodness Shakes but way cheaper and lasts months in the cupboard. Tastes nice and I do find it helps with recovery after a big ride.

Store them at 40% charge in a cool dry place

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries

chunky monkey seems good vfm if it fits your fork

I’ve got the dual compound trail extreme on the front tubeless and it’s brilliant but only just fits in my Reba fork. It’s only a few grams heavier than the Smorgasbord I’ve got on the back

Bloody scousers no doubt…

Really? :roll:

Ouch. Tacx for me!

This +1

Radon Black Sin 6.0 £1,250(ish)

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a78507/black-sin-6-0.html

I just got one from Tesco for £10 and a mains/car ciggie lighter pump for £7

CBA spending loads for something that does the same job

I used to put a couple of High5 Zero tabs in my camelbak but found they made very little difference to how I felt or cramping compared to plain water, what made the difference was how big the ride was and how fit I was…so really I think it is a case of MTFU ;)

If I’m doing a really big ride I’ll fill a water bottle with home made energy drink (1 litre diluted cordial, 60g-80g sugar & high5 tab) to supplement my jam butties and Jordans Frusli bars. Also after a big ride I have a bottle of Yazoo chocolate milk for recovery and because I’m a child and like chocolate milk.

You need to make sure you’re eating the right stuff but there’s no need to take it too seriously or buy expensive sports specific stuff

Stop riding into stuff…or cut them down. Either is fine.

Mine are 780mm to compensate for elsewhere ;)

I’ll be getting a Maverick Strada MT Evo 1/10 RTR Electric Monster Truck when my lad gets a bit older, they sound tough, get good reviews and are good value at £110. They do a brushless version for £185 although he’d probably take his little brother’s legs off with that!

I used to have Tamiya RC cars when I was a kid but the kit you get with the RTR models now are way better value.

LHM+ is the same stuff, I got Motul LHM oil which was more expensive than Halfods stuff but has a higher boiling point

£17 from SSC seems reasonable?

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=362

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=336

If it’s not proper DH I’d get the TL28, in fact they’re exactly what I’ll be getting for my next wheels. I’ve also read they can ding but I’ve read that about Stans rims too and I’ve read much more good stuff about Pacenti rims than bad.

My AM-490 on switch hubs have been great and well built from new. I’ve bent them both properly twice in big offs and they trued them well for free both times so I’ve had a good experience with their wheels

I think if you’re using them for proper DH then I’d get Pacenti DL31 rims on Tesla hubs if you can afford the extra £60, they’re eyeleted which is an advantage over the flows.

Which rim is wider and tubeless ready? Get that one and that’s coming from someone running tubeless on AM-490’s

http://www.alpkit.com/shop/cart.php?target=product&product_id=16469&category_id=250

I’ve used Superstar and Uberbike pads and have been happy with both of them, if I’m being honest I can’t tell the difference between them so yes go ahead and buy them

Tight hamstrings can cause lower back pain, google it and do some stretches.

Superstar or Uberbike pads, same price and appear to be identical. I only use sintered.

I was very close to getting a Radon, amazing spec for the price and looked good, but it had a horribly steep head angle..

Ditto but they have just released the Slide E2 with a 34 Fox 160 fork which has 17mm longer axle to crown height so should be about 67.3°

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k1867/a86777/slide-150-e2.html?mfid=52

The Slide E1 will be release soon for approx £2,550

I’m still tempted by them but would probably get offset shock bushes

I got a 3mx100mm roll from the below which is Guaranteed 3M and good value, it did the vast majority of my frame. Applied it in the same way you apply invisibleshield to phones which is carefully cut to size with backing on tape, clean frame with 70% IPA, spray tape and frame with water plus a drop of fairly liquid then apply carefully to the frame pushing out any water drops and bubbles using a rubber spatula or similar. When you use water you can reposition the tape and get all the bubbles out so it’s virtually invisible.

3M 8671HS Polyurethane Protective Tape

Have you tried phoning them?

I’m on my 3rd Feature after smashing the first 2 due to lack of skill and I’m still not dead so they do a good job for their intended purpose. They look great (IMO) and are light and comfy…I really can’t work out why they don’t charge double for them.

Cheap cartridge bearings have rubbish seals so don’t last long, get good quality branded bearings (FAG/INA/EZO/SKF) and fill them full of grease before fitting and you’ll be right…or save yourself a faff and get them from Katec/Keasea which are the cheapest I can find anyway.

I got a full front and rear set for £35 from Katec/Keasea on ebay (they were EZO bearings) and they’re all running smooth 9 months later, in fact I recently picked the seals off the bearings I could reach to check them and they were all uncontaminated proving the seals are working. Cheap bearings have poor tollerances but more importantly poor seals so get SKF, INA, FAG, EZO (from Katec)

This is how you change the front bearings, the rear are easy and you don’t need special tools…

Pull the end cap adapters off which will leave the bearings and the inner half of the end caps still in place. Using a drift/screwdriver/socket extension etc and hammer knock out a bearing and end cap still in the hub by pushing the spacer between the bearings down to compress the o-ring so you can get the drift on the edge of the bearing then do the same for the other bearing. It’s best to press the bearings in place but I used an old bearing on top of the new bearing and carefully knocked it in with a hammer, even if you do use a press make sure you push on the outer race of the bearing as applying too much force to the inner race will damage them. Make sure all the spacers and end caps go in with the o-rings seated correctly which can be a bit tricky if the o-rings have magically grown like mine had.

http://db.tt/D3vUOJEb

http://db.tt/2vZUIP8s

http://www.youtube.com/user/Milanslav

http://www.novatec.com.tw/novatec/english/p_show.php?sid=280

http://www.novatec.com.tw/novatec/english/p_show.php?sid=278

Gorilla tape. The 1″ wide roll will probably be the right size or just get the 2″ wide 32m roll and cut it to the correct width

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Gorilla-Tape-Tubeless-Conversion.html

I recently went from Elixir R’s to SLX using the same rotors and caliper mount adaptors and I’m made up with them. Much easier to align and are powerful and consistent

This http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=114

Or this http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=539

Decent quality bearings that are easily replaceable. Most headsets are very similar so no point getting a fancy one

If you want to pay more for re-bradned boutique greases from companies that don’t even manufacture lubricants, be my guest.

Not sure if Rock n Roll would come under this category but I’m getting very good results with their stuff.

Mobil1 synthetic is also meant to be very good

IPA is best but assuming you haven’t got that then warm soapy water and a bit of elbow grease is fine. You don’t want to knacker the pads and caliper seals with oily stuff like meths and nasty solvents or boiling water. You’ll need to bed the brakes in again if you thoroughly clean the rotors.

42…obviously

Makita or Bosch both the blue ones, and mains ,lots more power

This +1 but Bosch blue in particular

We stayed here last year http://caegwynfarm.co.uk/ and we’re off there again in may.

The rooms were really clean and comfortable and the breakfast was great.

For £1 they will give you a lift to the local pub and you get a free minibus drive back.

Also coed y brenin is a 5 minute ride down the road from the farm which is another bonus!

I stayed here last year, great place and great pub they take you to.

This explains the different headset standards http://www.bicycleheadsets.com/uploads/SHIS_PR_TECH_DOCUMENT_v2__3_.pdf

As JGG said it’s probably semi integrated (zero stack) and probably 44mm internal diameter headtube so you need either of the below depending on the fork you intend to use.

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=114

or

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=539

if it is fully integrated (internal) then you probably need this

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=481

But you need to know your headtube size