Fox Launch Pro knee pads are great, you don’t notice you’ve got them on even on 7 hour rides

If it’s just the port being blocked with grease and hard riding clears it then it sounds like people need to grow a set ;)

iolo – Member
http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=29611

Chris “Monkey” Harris is a legend, I have an even bigger man crush on him now I know he’s a MTBer. He used to work for EVO mag (Betws y Coed Shell garage is their regular fuel stop for the EVO triangle) but now works for Drive doing youtube vids and d!cking about in flash cars in the way you’d want to do it yourself. Also even though he’s a journalist that’s his own car

Cae Gwyn Farm

set of rechargeable AAA’s.

these in particular http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sanyo-Eneloop-AAA-Pack-Batteries/dp/B000IDWDKO

I’ve got the slightly more expensive at £14 Casio W-86-1VQES but it’s got the proper “Electro-luminescent” backlight making it more handy for ninja work http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002U0KHPG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000J34HN4&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=0M6DQXW9BPNJDXWA4MJV

Phaart Bleep 2x 0.5 Watt rear light

I’ve got virtually the same made by RSP and it’s properly efin bright, my mates make me ride at the back

I’ve bought a few bits and pieces from the but didn’t get cereal bowl and coaster?!?!!

Apparently there has been an issued with the red Spectral paint finish causing delays.

You also need to look at and consider the warranty and customer service. Canyon is 6 year warranty and I’m yet to hear anything other than praise for their customer service from any real people. Radon warranty is 5 years for aluminium but only 2 for carbon and their customer service is far less proven.

If you’re thinking of the Slide 160 carbon when looking at the geo I wouldn’t really class it as similar to the Strive and is more like a long travel trail bike than a mini DH bike.

We’ve got the 0W30 oil in along with a load of other parts

Nice one, I got the oil from ze germans a while ago. How much are the air side rods and do you sell slick honey?

Dead easy to do a lowers service, just follow the SRAM guide and use a torque wrench.

I got a 2oz tube of slick honey grease from Billys BMX but now out of stock and Ison Distribution has an ETA of 14th April, not sure what else is a suitable substitute but slick honey looks very much like a thin calcium based waterproof grease. I got a litre of Rockshox 0W-30 oil from bike-discount.de as couldn’t find it in the UK and wanted to stick with the specified oil on my lovely spendy new forks but I’m 99% certain it is Maxima Ultra 0w30 ester synthetic motorbike engine oil and it definitely smells and looks like it is but I guess there is a chance the engine oil has additives in it that aren’t in the RS stuff. As there is so little oil in the damper side lower leg I removed the lowers to check before I used them and although they was oil present it only dripped out of the air side lower leg and at least I know they’re lubed properly now.

It will be fine. I recently went from 3×8 to 2×10 using the same 9sp triple XT front mech and it doesn’t rub and shifts fine (although a 2×10 mech would be better) so you’ll have no problem at all. All left hand front mech shifters are the same cable pull so it doesn’t matter what shifter you use with what mech.

Gotcha, a toptube type. Thought weeride was lingo for the act of cycling with sprog in tow

Googled it and found custom jobbie for a fiver https://www.hivis.co.uk/custom-printed-hi-vis-vest.html

Like this?

Might as well just get some reflective hi vis tape and go crazy on the back of the child seat, do some chevrons pointing to the right and fix a couple of On One Phaart Bleep lights to it

I’ve found marine grease more effective than RnR super web grease in BB and headset bearings

Fogtech works great, most other stuff is rubbish http://www.visorvision.co.uk/shop/FogTech-Bottle-36?osCsid=pqvd1hleu128t81klogob4s3l5#.Ux8dWvl_tjE

Marine grease, if you can’t get to a boat place search on ebay for Morris K99

I use marine grease in all bearings, search “Morris K99 500g” on fleabay

I’ve managed to stop the coaster brake working on my son’s hotrock by stripping and servicing it and obviously not putting it back together quite right or using too much or too little grease or something. It was a messy job so not keen to sort it out and to be honest I’d rather he just be used to using brake levers. The bike is really light but the back wheel weighs a tonne so I’d be tempted to swap it for a normal light wheel and just have the front brake

Uberbike pads are better than SS IME. I like their Race Matrix pads and they have lasted well until I did a couple of rides recently in the peak district which killed them so they’re a bit fair weather to keep in all year, I replaced them with their sintered expecting them to be as noisy as SS sintered but they’ve been very quiet, bedded in well and feel pretty nice.

I’m a tart so use Renthal grips but I’d give Uberbike grips a go as a cheaper option.

http://www.akbearings.co.uk are very good and the cheapest place I can find for decent quality, I’ve bought from KATEC before but I’m not convinced they are genuine SKF/INA/EZO as they developed play in less than a year. Give them a bell and see if they do headset bearings. (Just spotted SS site is back up, I’ve had a few sets of their headset bearings and they’re fine but fill and cover them in marine grease as they will rust)

It’s about getting an even layer of pad material on the rotors which increases friction and stops them being noisy which happens when the pad material is not even.

It’s definitely needed and makes a difference. I find it easiest to do it on the biggest road hill you can as it lets you do repeated hard brakings in a row building up speed easily inbetween then ride back up to the top and do it again until it seems done…and then do it all again for the back brake. It’s needed every time you change pads and is probably needed occasionally after riding in filthy conditions which will remove the pad material from the rotors.

This is about car brakes and quite wordy but it’s the same materials and concept

https://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-rotors/post/Bed-in

edit: you need to bed in the pads and the rotor so would need to put the rear pads and rotor on the front.

I’m still right :wink:

“Commercial chargers do not allow changing the charge voltage limit. Adding this feature would have advantages, especially for laptops as a means to prolong battery life. When running on extended AC mode, the user could select the “long life” mode and the battery would charge to 4.00V/cell for a standby capacity of about 70 percent. Before traveling, the user would apply the “full charge mode” to bring the charge to 100%. Some laptop manufacturers may offer this feature but often only computer geeks discover them.”

also

“Lithium-ion suffers from stress when exposed to heat, so does keeping a cell at a high charge voltage. A battery dwelling above 30°C (86°F) is considered elevated temperature and for most Li-ion, a voltage above 4.10V/cell is deemed as high voltage. Exposing the battery to high temperature and dwelling in a full state-of-charge for an extended time can be more stressful than cycling.”

It was over the space of about a year but a laptop battery permanently at 100% charge and sitting in a hot laptop or 20C living room will become knackered much quicker than if it is kept at a lower state of charge and as cool as possible. Overcharging kills them very quick but that’s a different issue.

I’ve had 3 and they were all about 810g (same as Smorg) on the kitchen digital scales, good grip when run at low pressure but draggy as hell on the back wheel riding on smooth surfaces

I don’t think you have.

I do

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries

I’ve recently got one from fleaby, it was the cheapest I could find (£12ish) with decent seller seller feed back and it works fine. I’ve killed 2 laptop batteries by leaving it plugged in 24:7 so I’m trying to be a bit nicer to this one and not have it at 100% charge all the time

This has just given me the idea to change my 2 litre lemo bottle inflator to 3 litre, google tells me you have to go to pikey Iceland to get a big pikey bottle for this pikey inflator

Screwfix for £5ish, have cut lots of inners and outers very well

Don’t brake :D

Dont put grease on the back of the pads, it does sod all accept risk contaminating the pads and damaging the seals.

The vibration is usually caused by uneven pad material on the rotors which gets worse the more you use them just like braking bumps on a trail. You need to sand the rotors with sandpaper (don’t go crazy) and lightly do the pads then clean them with IPA alcohol, centre the calipers evenly and dead straight then bed them in properly by getting them hot then doing 10 to 20 hard brakings from 20ish mph but don’t lock up or come to a full stop. PITA but worth it. Sintered are bad for noise, organic are much better but aren’t durable enough in wet/mud/grit. I’ve had great results with uberbike race matrix pads as they’re quiet and feel like organic but last nearly as long as sintered.

What about a Phantom II?

Take it to a tailor or dry cleaning place that do repairs and get the zip replaced then spend the money you save on shiny stuff

Heating the room through the night is more likely to wake her up, in fact she might be too hot under a duvet + blankets as kids duvets are usually 7 tog. Mine wake up through the night because they are sleep terrorists

I’ve just bought a Topeak Hexus II which replaces a decades old Park allen key multitool and separate other tools. It looks really well made, has everything I need and is a fair bit lighter than what came out my pack plus it’s pretty cheap. Can’t see anything else that does the same for a similar price

My brother did the same to his shock, expensive mistake!

Rock n Roll Gold

Get as much as you can off with a Stanley blade then use sealant remover.

This +1

I got most of mine off with a blade so didn’t need the remover.

Use Dow Corning 785+ to reseal it http://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-corning-785-bacteria-resistant-sanitary-silicone-white-310ml/58308

I’d say that is a very bad idea, it would be very difficult to dill it out straight and even if there was enough material the axle would be significantly weakened

http://www.screwfix.com/p/masterlock-wall-and-floor-anchor-large-160mm/49778 cheap but better than nowt otherwise spend wisely on a torc

bbb parkinglot btl-19 for wall hanging

Brand new brakes with sticky pistons?! Send them back

I had the same problem with a set of Elixir R’s and not amount of fettling with DOT oil, silicone oil or silicone grease made any difference. New piston and seal kit may fix it but shouldn’t need to do that on new brakes.

Just do what the Athertons do and get the train with the twirlies