chunky monkeys nearly killed me in calderdale on a very wet snowy day, not been back with the new bike and MM but pretty sure I’ll only have my own lack of skill to blame rather than the tyres.

Nealy how do they compare overall to CM and are sidewalls stiff as well as tough?

Carcass are about the same size (MM slightly bigger) but the MM is stiffer/tougher and the knobs are loads bigger on the MM than the CM. Even when the CM was brand new it was nowhere near as confidence inspiring as the MM and I still rate the CM as a good tyre.

5ml isn’t much but it’s not much less than the 10ml you put in the air side lowers of a 32 TALAS, the damper side lower leg of a Pike is shorter than the air side (http://nsmb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/pike-6.jpg) which may explain the difference and they do state use the correct amount to avoid damage. There is grease on the wiper seals and oil in the foam rings so it’s not dry in there and it’s quick and easy to do the 50 hour lowers service.

I’ve got one on the front, 27.5 snake skin trailstar (so not super gravity) weighs 916g. They are brilliant, loads of grip and support and roll fine unless you’re on road but no worse than a chunky monkey in that respect. It’s already got me out of a few “oh &#!+” moments. There are faster rolling lighter tyres but I’d rather have the grip. Could always stick a rock razor on the back now that it’s summer (jinxed it)

It’s easy to service the lowers on the Pike, same as other Rockshox really but just follow their techdoc pdf and put 15ml oil in air side and 5ml in the damper side

The grease they recommend is slick honey which is hard to get hold of but try ebay or http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=lubz-slickhoney. Alternatively PM600 which is also spendy http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/pm600-military-grease-72967/wg_id-2281

I’m fairly certain the lowers oil is Maxima 4T Ultra4 0w30 ester synthetic motorbike engine oil but just incase it’s a different blend I got a bottle of the RS stuff http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/suspension-strut-oil-15-wt-1-l-27371/wg_id-2281 The Maxima Ultra4 is very high quality race oil with moly etc added and the ester negates the seal swell that normal synthetic engine oil can have.

Try loading the gpx to http://www.bikehike.co.uk/mapview.php then save route and tick to GPS unit with the 800 plugged in

Order bike with credit card details and then they take the money from the card on the same day that it is built/shipped. I think if you pay by bank transfer they notify you the bike is being built and ask for the money then ship it once the funds are received.

Could just use thick grease to reduce the volume? the metric volumes for the spacers are 3ml, 6ml, 10ml, 13ml, 15ml. See below to work out which spacers can be used with which shock

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/QuickTech/013CTD_FloatAirSpringSpacerProc.htm

Preston but I believe they are good and know what they’re doing so will prepare the frame properly http://www.fastlinecoatings.co.uk/ Not used them myself though

Yep, I’ve heard of other companies only selling spare to the original owner and some just keeping them for warranty

Ask again? http://www.canyon.com/_en/service/crashreplacement.html

Hose and kitchen brush on all drive train, wipe chain with rag, rock n roll, wipe chain cogs and jockey wheels, done

10% off at Merlin this weekend so cheaper http://bikes.merlincycles.com/search?view=grid&cnt=32&w=pike#

or from ze germans if they have them in stock http://www.bike-discount.de/en/shop/bike-parts-3/brand-rock_shox/o-relevance/q-pike

I’m sure there are cheaper again if you spend a few minutes searching

Yep, Ergon seat does not like my gooch so will be getting a Spesh Henge at some point. The DT XM1501 wheels really are very special, it’s very noticeable how quick it picks up speed with a few pedal stokes compared to the cheap heavy 26 wheels I’ve got on the hardtail.

Leythervegas – The C456 (18″, 50mm stem, 780 bars) still feels great but the Spectral (M, 60mm stem, 740 bars) is loads better in every way. I’ve always felt the C456 riding position is a bit stretched out while seated so had to keep edging the seat forward but the Spectral feels spot on. The C456 has a slacker seat tube angle which makes the top tube longer although the reach is quite similar so feel the same stood up. Although the C456 Evo geometry is better (IMO) than the C456 I don’t think it significantly different to warrant swapping from the old to the new as the will ride very similar. The Spectral is my fist full suss but even after a fair bit of riding I’m still blown away by how much more fun, faster and easier it’s making my rides. Pedaling on lumpy stuff is easy as your feet don’t get bumped about it makes jumping loads easier plus the obvious blasting through rough stuff is fun rather than taxing. I’m keeping both and will use the 456 for local training rides or flatter stuff but the Spectral is going to first choice for anything fun. Also had no dealing with On One customer service but all dealings with Canyon have been great and I have every confidence they will make sure you stay a happy customer.

Keep the C456 and get the Spectral

A C&P below from another thread…

Me
Height: 176cm
Inseam: 81cm
Shoulder:44cm
Arm: 62cm
Torso: 68cm

The size calculator recommended I get a small but looked at the geo and a medium looked right which is what I got and it fits perfectly, if I added 1 cm to height and leg the calculator recommended a medium so it must err on the small side. I did think about getting a large but was concerned about being able to get the reverb low enough in the seat tube but I’ve got about 6cm post showing between the top of the seat tube and the reverb collar so it would have been fine but the medium feels great so glad I got it.

Also from here (http://enduro-mtb.com/en/dialled-rides-tuning-tips-from-the-pros-dudes-of-hazzard/) “Joe: Its a fully standard set up here. The Canyon spectral in Medium fits me perfectly at 173cm and so don’t need pimp it out with any mods.”

…the Spectral (8.0) is a beast and I’ve properly fallen in love with it. It’s really light, especially compared to other similar bikes, and climbs really well but what’s giving the biggest grins is how fast it is and how well it flies and that’s coming from someone who can’t jump for toffee. It’s really nimble and accurate but also feels totally planted and stable. Also the more I ride it the more I think the 27.5 wheels are better than the 26 on my C456. Most people buy a Canyon because of the value and kit but the frame is the best thing about it (and maybe the DT wheels)

I’ve put the cheapest ones in the back as I was feeling tight and they’ve been fine although not in that long, they’re easier to get at to pop off the seals if they get muck in them. I can’t get at the front without pushing the bearings out which knackers them anyway so went with the best.

See this http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/superstar-evo-bearings-and-removelinstall-tool#post-4759978

Since then I’ve had to replace the front bearings again and the rear too so I don’t rate Katec bearings, I’m not convinced they were genuine EZO…

I now get all my bearings from AK bearings now, great service and you know what you’re getting, just remember to pop the seals off and fill them with waterproof grease. Take your pick, I went for the INA ones http://www.akbearings.co.uk/search.asp?strKeywords=6804&submit.x=0&submit.y=0&submit=%BB

I went from 2.25 advantage front and rear to Smorg back and Chunky Monkey front and it was a big improvement in grip and rolled fine off road. Bit more draggy on road but you’re doing it wrong if you’re bothered about that.

Bell do some good cycle / skate helmets for kids, they have fairly decent all round the head protection and come with extra foam inserts for size adjustment. Also as an added bonus they have some fairly cool designs and they wont break the bank.

My lad has had his best part of 3 years now and I would buy one again without hesitation.

Yep these, Bell Fraction for smaller kids and Bell Faction for bigger kids. There are 3 different thickness of pads for both front and back of the lid so you can easily get them to fit very snug which seems better than the normal rear ratchet IME. Also they look cool as but unfortunately you look like you’re on day release if you try and wear one as an adult.

SSC one has been good for me.

I had Superstar sintered last year and hated them, noisy as hell and felt nasty.

Changed to Uberbike race matrix which are silent, feel like organic, are powerful and lasted really well until a few rides in the peaks when it was properly wet killed them.

Got some uberbike sintered hoping they would be ok and they are brilliant. Virtually silent with zero squealing and feel much better than SSC sintered plus they’re more powerful and are lasting ages. No fit issues either.

I’ll probably just use uberbike sintered all year but do like organic and/or race matrix in the drier months

Think you need Tacx T4080 and the adapters with the big holes

Yep, need new ring http://www.fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/

Me
Height: 176cm
Inseam: 81cm
Shoulder:44cm
Arm: 62cm
Torso: 68cm

The size calculator recommended I get a small but looked at the geo and a medium looked right which is what I got and it fits perfectly, if I added 1 cm to height and leg the calculator recommended a medium so it must err on the small side. I did think about getting a large but was also concerned about being able to get the reverb low enough in the seat tube but I’ve got about 6cm post showing between the top of the seat tube and the reverb collar so it would have been fine but the medium feels great so glad I got it.

Also from here (http://enduro-mtb.com/en/dialled-rides-tuning-tips-from-the-pros-dudes-of-hazzard/) “Joe: Its a fully standard set up here. The Canyon spectral in Medium fits me perfectly at 173cm and so don’t need pimp it out with any mods.”

Based on your inseam I’d say you are borderline on the medium to get the reverb low enough, it depends on cleat position and how high you like your saddle. You can always send the bike back for a different size although that adds a delay to getting out and riding.

BTW the Spectral is **** brilliant

http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p45798/Madison-Y3-Unisex-Kids-Comfort-Saddle.aspx

They’re introducing something that might turn into it http://labs.strava.com/flyby/

I love Specialized gloves, have tried on a few other brands and they don’t fit as well as Spesh. Had the BG gel for years until they wore out and now got their enduro gloves which are unpadded on the palms but with a bit of finger/knuckle protection. Their LoDown gloves are very similar to the enduro but more minimal and look great

Shimano XTR BB94 http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-sm-bb94-mtb-bottom-bracket-cups/aid:674910 meant to be better sealed but still shimano

Hope PF41 looks good as once the cups are fitted it’ll be easy to knock out bearings and replace them but they are an odd size (37mm x 24mm x 7mm I think) so you can’t get them from a bearing supplier and need to get expensive Hope bearings

Day to day cleaning just use water on the rotors/pads/calipers as you don’t want to remove the pad material from the rotor, contaminate the pads or risk damaging the caliper seals.

If the rotors have oil/grease on them then use 70% IPA Isopropyl Alcohol from ebay, 100% is the norm but 70% is less likely to damage rubber seals (but still be careful) and cleans fine.

Meths can have oily additives in it so don’t use it IMO.

Branded brake cleaner can have all kinds of cr@p added to them that you don’t necessarily want so just use IPA alcohol which is cheaper anyway

rob jackson – Member
Is the charger damper syringe the same as the reverb bleed syringe?

No http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/rockshox-charger-damper-rebuild-880622.html#post10932547

You need this 11.4318.010.000 Bleed fitting Charger Damper (fits basic Rockshox Bleed Kit, 3mm ID)

and this or maybe just a bogo syringe 11.4315.011.010 ROCKSHOX Bleed Kit (Totem) Qty 1

Superficial – Member
Is there any reason why you can’t use Castrol GTX or some cheapo 5w30 engine oil from Halfords?

quote myself from another thread…

nealy – Member
Dead easy to do a lowers service, just follow the SRAM guide and use a torque wrench.

I got a 2oz tube of slick honey grease from Billys BMX but now out of stock and Ison Distribution has an ETA of 14th April, not sure what else is a suitable substitute but slick honey looks very much like a thin calcium based waterproof grease. I got a litre of Rockshox 0W-30 oil from bike-discount.de as couldn’t find it in the UK and wanted to stick with the specified oil on my lovely spendy new forks but I’m 99% certain it is Maxima Ultra 0w30 ester synthetic motorbike engine oil and it definitely smells and looks like it is but I guess there is a chance the engine oil has additives in it that aren’t in the RS stuff. As there is so little oil in the damper side lower leg I removed the lowers to check before I used them and although they was oil present it only dripped out of the air side lower leg and at least I know they’re lubed properly now.

Brake squeal is caused by vibration which is often due to uneven pad material on the rotors. Sand the rotor surface to remove all existing pad material and then clean with IPA alcohol and a clean rag (not meths) and lightly sand the pads keeping them flat although if they’re contaminated then it’s best just to use new pads. Makes sure the calipers are aligned evenly and straight to the rotors and the all bolts are tight then bed the pads in properly to put an even layer of pad material on the rotors by doing 20ish hard brakings without locking up or coming to a complete stop.

Don’t put any copperslip or grease on the back of the pads as it’s doesn’t stop the noise, can damage the caliper seals and risks contaminating the pads/rotors.

I’ve had mine for a year with one of these in it http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=425

it’s fine but I used to wash the bike upside down and wrecked the lower bearing fairly quick so lesson learned. These bearings are the replacement for the lower of the SSC and On One headset http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=439 just make sure you pop the seals off and fill them with waterproof marine grease and cover the outside of them too. Good idea to clean and regrease occasionally too

This but it’s out of stock http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=539

This http://www.vikingtapes.co.uk/c-169-3m-8671hs-polyurethane-protective-tape.aspx#.UzLM6fl_tjE

Or search ebay for “solid neoprene rubber sheet” then cut to shape and stick on

Rock n Roll Extreme

Get a BBB Powerhead which is deeper than most and use carbon assembly paste between it and the steerer http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bbb-powerhead-compressor-adjuster-bap03/rp-prod29884

Get a roll of gorilla tape and tear it to the correct width to cover the rim bed, it tears along it’s length as easy as it tears across

I just use a caravan cleaning hose brush and water. Fenwicks FS1 works well but it’s not needed really and muc off has been know to cause damage. I’d rather just use water than wash grease and lube out with a chemical cleaner

Same as the lowers oil as it’s going to mix with it as soon as you turn the bike upside down

I think 24/38 (AM) makes more sense than 26/38 (AK) but it’s still not what you ordered.

Also it’s not just a case of getting a smaller granny ring as Shimano 2×10 chainrings are matched to each other so they both need to be AM or AK, see below

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/FC/EV-FC-M675-3397_v1_m56577569830801180.pdf