I’ve been looking into this for the same reason and it appears red rubber grease and silicone grease are both the right stuff. I’ve already got some Servisol silicone grease, which operates up to 200C, so I’ll be using that on the pistons and working them in and out of the bores to lube them rather than stripping the caliper.

Red rubber grease £7.84 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-999-fuchs-renolit-red-rubber-grease-grease-for-use-on-elastomers.aspx

Silicone grease £3.93 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Skytronic-Silicone-grease-50g/dp/B002KRHAK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334177742&sr=8-1

I’m completely useless as sharpening knives with a proper whetstone even though I spent much time practicing as a kid, my incompetence probably saved me some fingers! I got a Gerber Pocket Sharpener a while ago with a multiplier tool and now have a house full of ridiculously sharp knives, it’s virtually impossible to use it incorrectly and gives a nice smooth sharp edge which I’ve not found with any other knife sharpeners. Not as cool as doing it the proper way but the end result is good.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gerber-04307-Pocket-Sharpener/dp/B0001WOTEU

Hardly! I’ve got their wheel set with their AM-490 rims which have a much bigger sticker than the hubs do but the laser etching on the stealth hubs still looks better than the other logo. I’ve also got their headset and QR skewers which are laser etched and look kool.

…of course I may just be the butt of your joke.

I’ve got the stealth hubs and they look pretty slick.

I used two blocks of wood and a mallet! It worked fine although I know it’s far from the recommended method.

Coed Llandegla is fairly close and looks very snowy if that’s any help, don’t know about Betws y Coed though

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Oneplanet-Adventure/94413705817

How heavy are you? Surely they are massively over damped now?

It behaves as a 15W oil when cold and a 40W oil when hot so you would expect it to be over damped really but regardless of that for the damper of a RS fork but you should still use suspension fluid (e.g. Red Line Lightweight). A quick search found that Mobil 15W40 is 109cSt @40C and RS 5W Fork Oil is 16.1cSt @40C so it is quite a different viscosity!

I’ve used engine oil in the lowers though which is better than suspension fluid for lubrication.

I want a nuclear car.

I want a nuclear monster truck!

I should be test driving one of these Neal April

If the salesman wants to come with you for the test drive it might be a bit awkward , the seating position is a bit intimate!

Well you’d buy petrol, leave enjoy your week and watch a few movies by the time that things ready

The battery fully charges in three-and-a-half hours with a 100km range

I hate hybrids but I would get one of these for commuting…doubt I’d get 100km out of it though ;)

There is another way to avoid the queues :mrgreen:

I’m off to Lee Quarry on Saturday and didn’t have enough in the tank to get there and back so joined the other petrol grabbing idiots and queued for 10 minutes at Tesco this morning, now I have a full tank which should see me through to 16th April if I do a bit of Driving Miss Daisy :imalrightjack: :D

I’ve got the winter soft shell gloves, decent enough quality and fingers of the liners haven’t pulled out of the gloves when removing them yet so all good.

It’s good fun and gets better the faster you go, the new stuff has improved it hugely. I’ve only just got my bottle and worked out how to jump and it does make the place even more of a laugh. It does get busy of a weekend so I aim to get there for 9am to get a spot in the lower car park and beat the crowd. I know it gets some stick for having a few inconsiderate plebs there but anyone I’ve spoken to has been sound. If you think you might fall on your face then a full face lid is a good idea but I don’t think it’s necessary really.

I’ve had a 2002 2.0D saloon, 2005 2.2D hatchback and currently have a 2011 2.0D estate…guess where my work buys their company cars :lol: I also have one wife and two kids…stop copying me ;)

Definitely go for the 2.2D as it’s much better than the 2.0D, not only is it loads quicker it’s more economical as you don’t need keep the accelerator rammed into the carpet all day to avoid being overtaken by Ford Ka’s. They handle ok but do feel heavy and cornering enthusiasm is ultimately reigned in by under steer. The satnav works but is pretty crap in comparison to Tom Tom’s or even smart phones. The hatchback will just about be big enough for the famliy plus camping kit but the estate will be better and if you’re anything like us you’d probably need a roof box too. After having the estate for a year and being able to easily throw two bikes in the boot with the seats down I wouldn’t get anything else now.

My mate got the MBR offer for that stand, tool kit and Fenwicks set for £80 and said the stand seems pretty sturdy.

http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+Shop/Workshop++Tools/Workshop/Workstands/MBR+Offer+-Workstand+-+Toolkit++Fenwicks+Pack_MBR-OFFER.htm

All my own shots.

The wheels are such good value that I don’t mind forking out for quality bearings (even after a v short time) and I don’t want this to become a Superstar bitchfest. Anyone know where I can get good bearings that fit the EVO hubs?

The front Switch EVO hub takes 2 x 6804-2RS bearings and the rear takes 4 x 6902-2RS

SKF or FAG are the best bearings which from my searching are cheapest at from AK Bearings as per the below links. I’d be wary buying no-brand bearings from ebay (no offence intended) as I’d assume they are the cheap £1.40 type.

http://www.akbearings.co.uk/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=997&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1

http://www.akbearings.co.uk/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=1002&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1

BMI and the WHO range for normal or overweight do seem a bit flawed so should really be taken as a guide in conjunction with fitness, waist size, fat percentage etc. I know for a fact that I am very skinny at the top of my normal BMI range and don’t really want to go down to that weight again so with a bit of searching I found the below amended ranges that seem a bit more realistic, I’m aware that sounds like the “My scales are more accurate because I’m lighter” mentality ;) The ideal weight calculator linked below is also worth looking at which may stop you worrying or give you a kick up the arse.

underweight < 20.7
in normal range 20.7 – 26.4
marginally overweight 26.4 – 27.8
overweight 27.8 – 31.1
very overweight or obese > 31.1

http://www.halls.md/body-mass-index/bmirefs.htm

http://www.halls.md/ideal-weight/body.htm

Blimey! Gutted for you. If it’s any consolation my Raleigh Budgie snapped in half while I was riding it, the head tube just came away from the rest of the bike…I cried.

Lightmalls delivery faster than Dealextreme although ordering from someone with stock in the UK should be quicker again.

For £30 you can get the popular “1200 lumen” bike light with a red or silver crown

http://www.lightmalls.com/red-color-head-bicycle-lights-headlight-with-cree-xml-t6-emitter-1200-lumen-3-modes-bike-light-kit

http://www.lightmalls.com/beamteeh-high-power-head-light-bicycle-light-with-ssc-p7-emitter-3-modes-led-bike-light-kit

You haven’t been mean enough. Delete all her games saves, that’ll teach her!

Fox talas 140 not FIT, so Ill have to get some 7wt I take it

What brand 10WT oil did you get and what is the cSt@40C based on the below table? If it is close to 31.82 cSt@40C then it’ll be fine in the Talas (assuming you should be using Fox 7WT in it).

It doesn’t matter what you use in the lowers of the RS Rev’s because the oil there is just for lubrication and not damping as they are closed damper/semi-bath, I use good quality synthetic engine oil in the lowers of my Reba’s because it’s a better lubricant. Are the Fox forks open bath or closed damper (FIT)? If they are closed damper then again it doesn’t really matter which oil you use but if they’re open bath you need to use the correct weight suspension fluid as it is for damping as well as lubrication. The viscosity of Fox 7WT Fork Fluid is 31.82 cSt @40C so you want something close to this regardless of what weight the sticker on the bottle says, a very good oil is Red Line of which Medium is a close enough match (http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60184-red-line-medium-suspension-fluid.aspx). Read here for more info > http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

£300 for Superstar Trizoid with Stans Crest rims weighing approx 1,520g. http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=497

I’ve had their Switch Evo hubs with their AM-490 rims for 3 months and am happy with them.

I’m fairly certain it’ll be a standard size although don’t know what it is.

Give the shaft a proper whack but cover it with a block of wood or use a soft mallet. If the shaft is already pushed flush with the bottom of the lowers then hold the crown and pull down sharply with the fork brace

Tyrannosaur is brilliant although quite heavy going at times

Picasa works best for me

Its shut down now

WTF! Shows how long it’s been since I was last out :(

Doctor Duncans http://g.co/maps/p8v5g

The Jacaranda http://g.co/maps/nk6sb

On Mathew Street The Cavern Pub and Flanagans

Also… http://www.visitliverpool.com/xsdbimgs/Real%20Ale%20Liverpool.pdf

I doubt that service (lower leg only) will sort out your problem as I think you’ll need service the damper and air piston too which are inside the stanchions. This requires circlip pliers and a 24mm socket plus the O-Ring kit but is pretty easy.

Redrum/pitstop oil is fine for the lowers as is any 15W fork oil or good quality synthetic engine oil (not extended life) because it is only for lubrication. The 5W suspension oil is for inside the damper in the right leg stanchion.

Only thing I’ll add is dont try and use anything apart from shock oil in the damper(if you have to top up/ change it). Normal oil turns to mayonaise. I just use what CRC have at the appropriate weight. Works perfect.

And I’ve never used engine oil in the lowers – but I cant see why not.

Definitely only use suspension fluid in the damper or open bath forks. Also you can pretty much disregard the stated oil weight on the bottle as different brands of the same stated weight will be different viscosities. Rockshox 5W oil is 16.1 cSt @40C so you want something close to that, Redline is very good stuff and their Lightweight is 18.4 cSt @40C so that’s close enough for me but you can mix fluids to get a specific viscosity. See here for loads of info http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

The oil in the lowers of a semi-bath/sealed damper fork is only for lubrication so you don’t have to use suspension fluid. See page 14 of this PDF (http://www.enduroforkseals.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/pike_dual_air3.pdf) which recommends fully synthetic motor oil in the lowers. Also here are a couple other of threads discussing using engine oil (http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/mobil-1-5w-30-correct-715257.html & http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/better-clinging-oil-than-foxs-red-green-oil-701950.html) and why it is better than suspension fluid for lubrication, basically it’s slippier and clings to parts better.

I’ve recently serviced my Reba’s and after much research I used Redline Lightweight in the damper and Mobil 1 0W-40W fully synthetic in the lowers of both legs and the top of the air side. A thicker oil is recommended for the top of the air side such as gear oil, Float Fluid or Redrum but all is fine with mine. I also replaced the o-rings with the £8.75 kit off ebay and got syringes from ebay.

Links below…

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60183-red-line-lightweight-suspension-fluid.aspx

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68959-mobil-1-0w-40-new-life-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fox-racing-shox/float-fluid-pillow-pack-ec030500

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rock-Shox-Reba-Race-O-rings-Seals-Crush-Washer-kit/180822530582?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=008&category=36135&cmd=ViewItem

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Syringe-Mix-Lot-Mixed-Pack-Set-sterile-sealed-2ml-3ml-5ml-10ml-20ml-50ml-/180753891321?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Medical_Supplies_Disposables_ET&hash=item2a15c57ff9

A couple of weeks(ish) to dispatch and 6 weeks plus in total to arrive. Other stuff ordered elsewhere from HK arrived within 2 weeks!

Manafont and Lightmalls deliver quicker that DX.

Had a Gerber Suspension for a few years and would buy it again although I doubt it’ll ever need replacing, £21 from Amazon

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000EDPT9K/ref=asc_df_B000EDPT9K6983325?smid=A2DJ1KSVII9H6Z&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22242&creativeASIN=B000EDPT9K

A few years ago I did a single seater race driver experience through Trackdays.co.uk at Donington for £160 which was phenomenal. A few laps in a Mini Cooper with an instructor followed by two 40 minute sessions in a Formula Ford. Flying through Craner Curves and The Old Hairpin round the outside or Ferraris and Porches was absolutely hilarious :D

http://www.trackdays.co.uk/driving_experience/single_seater/

B’Twin 8.1 from Decathalon for £500 would be my first recommendation. Recon forks, X7 & Deore drivetrain, Elixir 3 brakes and pretty light too at under 13kg!

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/81-2011-id_8168695.html

Lizard Skin Charger, squishy and gripy.

Classic for £8 on Amazon?

Lightweight, too.

I splashed out the extra quid on the model with the better backlight :D

Try to clear the captcha using this link https://www.google.com/a/yourdomain.com/UnlockCaptcha