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Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 200 total)
  • Using an eSIM To Stay Connected In Remote Locations While Hiking Or Biking
  • ndg
    Free Member

    No chain whip needed. I bodged a free version of the park tool from a piece of 25mm box section and a hacksaw. Clamped the tool in the vice and undid the wheel from the freewheel.

    The tool engages the notches in the centre rather than the holes for a pin spanner.

    ndg
    Free Member

    Knolly

    ndg
    Free Member

    Don’t forget to check your cST, not just the weight, which is highly variable brand to brand. Peter Verdones site is great:

    http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

    ndg
    Free Member

    My latest bike takes 25.8 :?

    ndg
    Free Member

    Knolly?

    Either Endorphin or Warden fit the bill.

    ndg
    Free Member

    Great, but I got bored of being told they were a month away 12 months ago and bought something different.

    Shame, as the Rocket is a great bike!

    ndg
    Free Member

    Saints….

    ndg
    Free Member

    Happy with my TS8’s (150mm). Good damping and good stiffness for a 32mm stanchion. I generally run a lot less air than recommended to get the right feel.

    The grease service can be done at home, the damper service has to be done at a dealer. There is a you tube service for the grease service from Magura.

    ndg
    Free Member

    Show me the Knolly…. I’ve asked the distributor, but in case anyone in Surrey has an Endorphin or Chilcotin can I have a go please ?

    Go see John is Sheffield (Shoreline) – it’ll be worth it!

    ndg
    Free Member

    Cheers for the ideas. Definely threaded, and close to but not M5, so I’m going to buy some 2BA bolts and hope….

    ndg
    Free Member

    You’re gonna struggle putting half a link on the chain dude….

    Yep, but the chain may already be half a link too long.

    ndg
    Free Member

    Is it a full link (2 teeth) as the chain only wraps half of the cassette?

    Surely best to just resize it properly, using the shimano guidlines?

    ndg
    Free Member

    Mine kept breaking due to very very little tyre clearance so made my own from 1mm polycarbonate bought off ebay and zip tied it tight to the fork brace. It’s got a few scratches but is virtually indestructible even when bent completely in half with the front wheel off.

    This. I snapped the eyelets on mine in a crash, so used it as a template for a polycarbonate one. I found 0.75mm sufficient though. Recently made a new one with the mounts in a different place to suit my double arch Magura’s

    Also as it’s clear it’s very unobtrusive.

    ndg
    Free Member

    Race face SixC if 780mm is wide enough for you?

    ndg
    Free Member

    You’ll be okay with a large Endorphin at 6′, just use a shortish (60mm) stem.

    ndg
    Free Member

    I have an 29er Inbred slot dropout SS.

    My experience was that a Shimano QR wouldn’t stay put, even a bolted skewer moved on steep hills. The fix for me was a surly chain tug (Drive side only), it has two holes in the tug so you can switch around depending if it’s at the front or back of the slot. It wasn’t cheap, and I had to clean most of the patch-lock of the bolt so I could turn it by hand, but is a quality bit of kit that fits the Inbred well.

    The other advice to avoid losing the chain is to use the right chain for the rings you have, go all 3/32″ or all 1/8″. I started with a mix (bitsa bike), and had problems, going to all 1/8″ has been great, silent and smooth no matter what.

    Just need to upgrade the horid Juicy 3’s to Deores and I’ll be a happy chappy!

    Edit to add also running 32×18

    ndg
    Free Member

    Link fixed now.

    ndg
    Free Member

    plastercine – for that particular mountain mayhem consistency….

    ndg
    Free Member

    FAKE! You can see the tube…..

    ndg
    Free Member

    Ran over one at full steam on my old Orange 5, stayed on more by luck than judgement. Both wheels and clipped it with my pedal – they are seriously solid!

    ndg
    Free Member

    You could get the right sized easy out to fit over the inner race and get it spinning and then off?

    ndg
    Free Member

    Good racing yesterday. Dragged the wife up, and even she enjoyed it!

    ndg
    Free Member

    As above, I had no problems with Arch EX, HD’s when used with yellow stans tape. The green hope tape was too thick though.

    ndg
    Free Member

    NW – are yours the thrupin or grub screw type?

    It may be coincidental, but my Freeriders were well over a year old and in decent shape, started to get chewed up over the first couple of weeks, and absolutely destroyed after this weekend (big weekend though).

    ndg
    Free Member

    Oh man, of to Wales Friday, and sorting Mates wheels out as tubeless so can’t do tomorrow…..

    Next time, next time.

    ndg
    Free Member

    I run 2.25 Ardents at 25 and 28psi (ish), but most importantly run them tubeless. No more problems with thorns on the local trails or clattering it onto the edges of steps in town.

    ndg
    Free Member

    It’s a 929 with Volvo stickers on – it’s still plated a as a thule.

    It’s the one at £335 (got the price wrong!) on this page.

    ndg
    Free Member

    I’ve got a 929 – it works very well, and is a nicely engineered bit of kit!

    Got mine for significantly less than any internet price by buying it from a Volvo dealer. I think they retail it at £355, but a friend with bloody good negotiating skills argued them down to sub £300. Give themn a call, if you don’t ask you don’t get!

    ndg
    Free Member

    I’d be up for this again. I’ll put a post on the Godiva club forum when dates are confirmed.

    ndg
    Free Member

    You can buy extra tiptop patches on the bay-o-E. I got fed up going through patches at three times the rate of glue….

    ndg
    Free Member

    I was facing the same choice, demo’d a knolly endorphin this weekend – bought one, nuff said!

    Long version (mmel will already have seen this as it’s the email I sent him):
    It’s the first bike I’ve ridden that has managed to combine the plushness of an FSR design with a good ‘platform’.  The Four by 4 linkage is essentially a linkage driven FSR arrangment BTW.  When I first got on it I thought it was going to be another pillowy type bike as it smoothed out the trail chatter under the tyres in the same way that the Rune did.  I expected that this would make it hard to get off the ground and pop, and would kill pedalling efficiency.  

    A quick note on setup – it was fitted with Fox 34’s at 150mm, Fox CTD shock, and a decent SRAM based build.  It was a medium size with a 70mm stem, and I had to push the saddle all the way back.  After I moved the saddle the front end became a little light on steep climbs, before it felt very planted, i’ve bought a large frame to stop this and will find out on thursday how it rides with the extra ETT.  I ran it almost entirely in Trail 1 or 2 (as I was finding the sweet spot), although I did experiment with the descend mode on The Beast.  

    I rode two loops on it, the first was the Cotic demo loop, so I could get a direct comparison.  Smooth climbing it’s probably not as efficient as the Cotic, but not a million miles off, and a lot better than many of the bikes I’ve tried.  Coming down the rocky chute it was much more capable of dealing with the ‘chunder’, smoothing the worst out so I could concentrate on picking a line rather than correcting.  I turned round and rode back up the chute to test technical climbing – really good, better than the rocket, probably because of the reward axle path of the FSResq rear end, it was also fairly easy to lift the front and rear over the edge of steps.  I managed to climb back to the top albeit with a couple of dabs.  Coming down the last descent into Calver it was easy enough to pop off the little lips and bumps, probably not as poppy as the Cotic, but similar the SB66.  

    After that I popped over to Hope (In the car!) and rode up though Aston, down the beast, back up to the top and down the Roman road into Hope.

    The ride on the beast was interesting – I picked lines that’s I’d never have gone for on my Orange Five (2005, so steep head angle version), it’s a shame I haven’t ridden the Rocket on it too.  It had a very reassuring feel to the suspension coming off drops – it felt like it had a lot more travel than the Rocket – even though it’s actually a 140mm bike.  I didn’t get close to bottoming it out either, with about ~8mm of shock travel left according to the o-ring.

    Anyway long story short, whilst it wasn’t quite as poppy as the Rocket, it did a better job of merging FSR plushness with single pivot.

    John Booth at Shorelines was a really nice guy to deal with, if you want a demo I’d recommend you give him a call.  He also has a bunch of shiney machined bits that aren’t on his website yet, the Chromag pedals are a work of art.

    ndg
    Free Member

    LEV

    ndg
    Free Member

    I noticed that I drag/trail the rear brake alot
    I do too but if I actually want to stop or slow down properly I’ll apply the front.

    Dragging the rear brake is crap technique/habit I’m afraid, quite often with me it’s not even having any slowing effect at all, something I’m trying to stop myself doing.[/quote]

    I do this too – definitely poor technique! I think I do it as it manipulate the rear suspension into a more stable feeling position on my antiquated filing cabinet :wink:

    I’m doing it less these days as I’ve started getting my body weight more forward on the bike downhill. This has come with increased confidence, and has led to more confidence in the front end.

    ndg
    Free Member

    Mine’s broken to, most likely from being carried on the plane and bouncing against my carry on.

    I’m planning on reattaching it with a hot glue gun…..

    ndg
    Free Member

    There are two 12mm drop out standards (Shimano and DTSwiss/Syntace X12), but 142×12 hubs will fit either. Axles however are NOT interchangable!

    ndg
    Free Member

    We’ll be trying to tape an area off, but with 4 teams and 3 soloists we will fill it!

    ndg
    Free Member

    I ran a fat Albert on the front and nobby nice on the rear. Started with my normal trail pressures but ended up with a few extra psi as the tyres were squirming on the rim (my mavic 517’s are too narrow!).

    No flats throughout. In our group of 12 we had maybe 3 punctures and no one was running DH rubber.

    ndg
    Free Member

    I’ve bought a charge knife – similar profile as the spoon, but less height. No suede finish either. I’ve had gobi’s before but found that the internal structure seems to fail and they get uncomfortable.

    ndg
    Free Member

    If you’re willing to risk writing of the frame…………I’d probably give it a go if it was me

    Drill a wooden block and cut it in half to make a support for the back of the chainstay. Then either a vice and piece large round bar, of a ball pein hammer. Tape as suggested above to protect paint as far as possible. You may need to cold set the rear triangle afterwards (bend it back into alignment!).

    I’d personally go with the vice option – more control over the process. It worked well when I needed to relieve an exhaust pipe to clear a modified steering rack/column before now. The only issue was using a bar that was a little small on the diameter, so it was a tighter crease that I’d hoped for.

    ndg
    Free Member

    Yep – thread pitch and clamping method. I forgot the maxle system too. This page gives a reasonable summary of the different hub standards:
    http://www.mbaction.com/Main/News/MBA-Tech-Making-Sense-Of-RearWheel-Spacing-6083.aspx

Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 200 total)