Some modern chargers are supposed to have ‘features’ that detect when a battery is dead.
I’ve found that when a charger says this, whacking it a good old-fashioned charger (that just charges the battery until full) gets around this.
Once I’ve force charged a battery its usually fine in the modern sensitive polite safety-concious politically correct charger afterwards

I was going to mention sealing between the valve & rim. Since ages ago, I learned (on here I believe) to add a smear of grease around the valve seat when assembling it first time.

Having done loads of tubeless setups using this technique, I can say it works, has no ill effect (no grease reacting with sealant etc) and always lasts the lifetime of the tyre.

I guess the grease seals micro leaks between valve & rim. Whatever, it works.

Countless chafing opportunities!!
Still, should be fun

Just looked up the Mobil 222 and it looks good. The blurb on the Mobil website certainly ticks all the boxes. It’s even blue!!!

Thanks for the replies so far

80…no 90% of the human race!

I’ve had winter tyres that were 3year old stock when I bought them (also on alloys as a deal). Also, I have a caravan so have done a bit of research into tyre life and when they should be changed due to keeping a van for 12yrs.

The figures I learned are that tyres are ok up to 10yr old. After that, change them asap.

Retailers may only be able to SELL up to 5yr old. So there must be an expected user lifetime after this. Hence 10yrs.

As has been said, keep them dark when not on the car & they should last years. Mine did about 5 seasons before wearing out so technically were 8yr olds.

Had similar a couple of times a few years back. I vaguely remember simultaneously holding the power & right key (I think) for like 1 minute (longer than you think you should).

You’ve not got many options really. Hold some key combinations for a while and see if it restarts.

Oh, and make sure the memory card is taken out. I had this cause a hang once so its worth getting it out of the way!

I can’t remember where I learned this but I was told to use a healthy dob of thick grease around the valve seat when assembling a tubeless setup.

I’ve done this on every set and have never had a problem with sealant or air leaking around the valve. Just put the grease on before inserting into the rim.

Initially I wasn’t sure but as it has been proved to work, I’ll keep doing it. I guess it helps the valve to seat properly in the rim, the thick grease doesnt disappear and the sealant seems not to be affected by it.

However it works, might be worth a shot.

NHS supplied hearing aid user here too (Oticon).
Really happy with service & tests from NHS.
Luckily I only suffer with a weird low frequency loss so without my ears on, films seem a bit mumbly and I miss the odd word (usually the crucial one!) in conversation. However, I find the Oticon aids make a positive difference.

I’m not sure commercial ones would be any different. They may look a bit nicer & maybe have some useful features but I’ve never seen the point in paying £,000s. They’re not going to provide a magic solution or work any better.

Excellent work👌

If there’s anywhere I’d avoid unless I wanted to be told my tracking was out, I should get 4 new tyres and then they totally screw up a well aligned car, it’s Kwik fit!!

Don’t trust their judgement, alignment processes or ability to do just about anything. I wouldn’t even trust them to fix a puncture (they’d insist I needed a new tyre first! ).

If I were you, I’d look up a local tyre specialist that can do alignment properly. Ignore the big names. Go for someone who actually cares about getting repeat custom.

Alternatively, do let us know how you get on…and how many times you need to visit until the issue gets resolved.

Good luck😉

What ever happened to the humble Texan bar? After all, “a man’s gotta chew… ”

And laser lances! Used to last me a whole chemistry lesson!

Of course, I’d usually get a sneaky nip of the Black Tower if the parents were entertaining. Or acquire a can of McEwans! I wonder if it would taste the same if I tried some now.

@jamiea It may well be a doddle. Yet to crack it open.

I was reluctant to do so until I got a battery. Ideally a decent one with the same capacity (or better) as the original. Thing is, nobody is recommending a good source!

I’ve looked at many on various sites but I’m not confident that they’re any good.

I might whip the back off just to check for corrosion or the bleedin obvious.

At the end of the day, if it dies completely, then ANY battery will be better.

Thanks for the 2 other posts too. Sounds like it might not be too scary.

Apols for reviving an old thread but…

My Garmin Edge 810 (approx 5yrs old) has reached the battery replacement stage too. It is not clear to me that the OP ever got a battery source recommended.

Basically, my unit has been showing strange symptoms for the last year. Things like showing 54% battery then suddenly dying on a ride or showing 100% when I finished charging it & tucked it up in bed only for it to immediately die & claim the battery is empty the following morning.

I saw slight condensation inside the screen once on a sunny day. Left it to cook with the silicon covers open & it’s seemed ok since but that’s been the only ‘fault’. I reckon the battery has reached that dodgy stage as the only weirdness seems to be power related.

I used to be a surface mount repair technician, back in the day when things got repaired, so I’m ok with soldering & tinkering with electronics. But at the same time, I can’t be arsed anymore if the price is right.

So, advice in the thread ranged from ‘get garmin to do it’ to ‘I did it and it was ok’.

Can anyone give any more recent advice?
Can anyone recommend a battery source?

@breninbeener How did it work out for you?

Not sure if this helps but there was a similar thread a few weeks back.

I’ve never linked to a thread before so here goes…

Link?

Also, nice jumps! How do kids make it look so easy??
I’ve sessioned those tables before & still know I’m nowhere near clearing them!

There’s also such a thing as value for money. £35 for uplift when you can walk it in 10 is too much.
I don’t mind paying for services when I can see/feel the value.

BPW uplift price is just about tolerable but I do appreciate what I get for my money. 417 uplift… Not for me.

I’m all for supporting businesses where possible during covid. But these prices applied way before this pandemic.

I think their uplift price is way too much. It’s about a 10min ride/push up so dead easy.
I’ve also noticed (last year) that the queue for uplift was so long that I could push up & ride down twice before the back of the queue had got their uplift! Not saying this is always the case but makes me chuckle when it happens.

At BPW,the ride up is prob 40mins of effort. Here… use the ride up to build fitness & still enjoy plenty of runs down.

Give me a tenner & I’ll keep an eye on it for ya!
Oh, and I’ll need your keys in case I need to move it 😉

Try wrapping a couple of turns of an old inner tube round it to help grip it.
Use molgrips as a last resort (keep the inner tube on to save scratching it to bits!)

If you do get it off & clean it, grease the threads and make sure to remove the cap once a month to clean everything again. Basic maintenance saves trouble in future 😉

As Chuck says, cleaning & greasing is worth a try. The alternative is that the gas strut is knackered and needs replacing.

I’ve had two seize up. The first was replaced on warranty as it was only about 8mths old.
The second needed a new strut. Simple job to swap and not too expensive as I remember. I came to the conclusion that 2 years should be considered a good life and now consider the strut a consumable item.

If someone is quite cross (or you just want to take the mick cos they’re getting all stressy) you say “You’ve got a right cobb on”.

No idea where it comes from but been saying/hearing it for years.

I’ll help out by disagreeing about the fryer.
It’s white so gets grubby too quickly. A black one would be better.

I second the burning technique. I’ve also saved a pair of pads from an early end by heating.

I used a blow torch. Just heat to cherry red then leave to cool. They smoke a bit as the heat rises but once cool seemed ok and worked fine until they wore out.

Give them a good bedding in after you’ve done this (a few good braking sessions down hill, cycling the brakes from cold to very hot each time). Works for me.

@thepurist

I’m also stuck on 8/9/10 spending days concentrating on various balance techniques trying to get beyond 8 or so pedal strokes!

I’m frustated by how many false starts I keep doing. When it does all come together, I do several pedal strokes but find that I lose it just when I want to bring a knee or handlebar tweak in. Repeating these days until I feel I can move forward with at least a basic grasp.

I spent a day a while back deliberately chucking myself off the back. Great thing to do. First couple of times I landed like a sack of spuds. Then it became a graceful step off. Now, I seem to use rear brake subconsciously. Great confidence boost & fear killer.

Keeping on keeping on! One day it will be satisfying.

Smashed the carbon cage of my 2 month old XTR mech by hitting a stick at the side of the trail. Never broken or even bent a mech in many years riding.
Replaced it with an XT mech with aluminium cage. Never missed a beat for 7 years after that. Now sold the bike on.

Shimano stuff seems pretty good but why go XTR when XT is just as good without the fancy weaknesses.

And three bikes before replacing the jockeys!! Wow. I usually find 1 season is all you get before the bearings seize. Then another 6 months before changing the remaining spur for a new wheel with real teeth.

I use Bikeregister.com
Seems to offer the same service as above. I use the Stealth kit on mine.
It has a visible sticker as usual but you also use UV paint to put the number permanently on the frame. Then you get to go wild dabbing microdots (in UV paint) in every nook & cranny (so up the fork stem, under the headset cap etc). All places that your average lowlife won’t think of looking.

You get to upload loads of pics & a description all in the hope that if it does turn up in a haul, someone can identify it.

That plus a ****-off great chain & ground-anchor and insurance for when all that fails!

Aldi version here. I bought it as a “portable” workstand confining my not-so-portable one to serious bike fixing duties in the garage.
I can’t remember what I paid exactly but it was around the £20 mark about a year ago. For that price was a no brainer.
I must say I’m impressed. Very good build & really easy to use. Loads of adjustments so you can get the right height/angle/sturdiness as required.

Only comment is to look after the feet. They’re plastic and the only part I think will break easily.

Band of Houses
Killing Toke

I have one squeaky cleat! My left foot sits slightly pigeon-toed when pedalling so moves a bit as the pedal goes round. The squeak drives me mad once I’ve tuned in to it.

A dab of thick grease on the spd mating surface before leaving home seems to last most of a ride. I’ve also found dabbing my cleat in a puddle fixes it for a bit (assuming you can find a puddle).

My cleats are years old. Been squeaking for years too. No other indication that they’re worn out so living with it.

Servicing some forks just now. Thought I’d just pop the top off the air side before I had a quick coffee then I’d be ready to get busy afterwards.

I can tell you that undoing the cap with 100psi behind it is quite exciting!! Maybe I should have let the air out first!!!

Now sitting here drinking my coffee waiting for my ears to stop ringing…

Browsong for some fork related info & stumbled on this thread on another forum. If you’re lucky it might be of use.

And that corrosion looks like its where the stanchions have been meeting the bushings!
I’d have a look inside the lowers too. Probably new bushings required. They too can be pressed in.

Or it’s time to search for new forks. If so, good luck finding 26″ straight steerer forks. They’re out there but becoming rare.

Thanks for all the replies. Hopefully, it’ll be a while before I need to tweak the hanger anyway.

I use Fox Launch Pro.
I find them comfortable and no problem to wear under long sleeves.
Totally forget I’m wearing them!

I can also recommend a hanger alignment tool. Have had one for many years and use it a lot.

One bike I had, the hanger kept going out of line. Had to use this 2 or 3 times per year to keep things running true. I’m sure the frame was actually misaligned on that bike from new!! Snapped a hanger once & 2 new hangers but never totally cured the skew!

I always use the alignment tool before starting any gear reindex on any bike. Saves so much time.

Only other thoughts for the OP: stupid one, but is the derailleur deffo 12sp and not 11sp? This might cause the sort of ‘nearly but not quite’ shifting.

Are the bearings/bushing in top jockey wheel ok? No play? Again, this would affect an accurate shift (esp on 12sp).