They are now. Haven’t always been.

Just looked at them, they definitely show a narrow wide tooth profile on the listing I looked at.

As said, the quality of the alloy may be the thing to question, but in all honesty I imagine they come from the same place as Superstar, Uberbike etc which plenty of people run.

As a bicycle doesnt legally have to be fitted with a speedometer, i am not sure how you are meant to ensure you are not speeding. So find it hard to believe any such charge could possibly stand up ti scrutiny in court.

Technique needs to change.

My question would be does it feel better with those changes? You were in the ballpark already without using one, and were going ro add a token soon.

To me that sounds like the Shockwiz was a complete waste of money as it hasnt really told you anything you didnt know anyway.

Quick ride st Learnie, North of Inverness this morning.

Cutting them is lazy. Should be biting them.

Eh, :?

When i went to spain they had electricity, washing machines, even running water.

Grips more than good enough. In fact they were grippier than my Nano X. Though they are still grippy enough.

I think most arw happy with the nukeproof, and the Superstar El Plastique are the same.

They skid off rocks better and are suprisingly hard wearing and light.

Issue i had is that when i did need to replace the pins, the plastic around the nuts on the pins was soft and wouldnt grip the nut properly.

Flew a few years ago to Spain. Arrived and unpacked bikes and my mates large chainring was bent at right angles so god knows what had happened.

On the way back, not really easy jets fault, the security at malaria airport didn’t give me chance to fold the bike bag straps up, put it through the scanner and the straps jammed, they just sliced through them with a knife. Leaving me with a bag with no straps. No time to argue.

I like the look of the direct mount chainring. I use a 77 designs bash guard that mounts on the two lowest iscg mounts.

Looks nice, and will hopefully be a more pleasurable ownership experience than the Bossnut.

What cranks does it have? I found the Brand X dropper was a pain to fit as well, but seems to work well. Mine now has slight rotational play after about 200 miles though.

Are people managing to run 2.5/2.6 tyres on regular frames and forks?

Or are we talking boost, and 27.5 in 29er frames etc?

Have you tried letting all the air out, and cycling them, then inflating again.

Gotta be worth a try.

I dont feel these awareness weeks work as well as they coukd mainly due to lack of publicity. Its Thursday and this is the first I have heard of it.

It was the Inverness branch i mentioned in my earlier post.

It was the Inverness branch i mentioned in my earlier post.

Last 4 tests all done at Halfords, only failure was a blowing exhaust which I knew was anyway but had got MOT date wrong.

This is on cars ranging from 13 to 16 years old.

Have one of those in the stash. Need to get started but its coming to biking weather, not modelling weather.

Thanks. They are all 1/72. I don’t have the space for anything bigger unfortunately.

Currently working on an Italeri Sr71, but that has needed lots of filling and sanding joining the fuselage halves.

I am interested in the new Airfix Phantom. The one above was the Blue Angels boxing originally

Don’t know how I missed this thread, but here are some of my completed models

Tornado Gr4 made from Revell GR1 and Airfix kit

Zero

Mustang

Hasegawa Phantom turned into F4j UK

Beaten to it whilst doing the copy and paste thang.

Does it look like this?

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-2×10-speed-crank-fc-m627-36-22-175mm-black-458486

If so, the chainrings need to be 104 bcd for the outer 36 tooth and 64 bcd for the 22 tooth inner

These should do

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/shimano-deore-fcm510-triple-chainrings/rp-prod5700

Yep i do. And the rear mech round the left side. They both go down the downtube and cross over under the BB.

I would be looking at a new BTwin Triban 520 or 540 from Decathlon.

Why was rhe previous mech jumping around? How old is the bike? I wouldnt expect to have to replace a rear mech on a 2016 bike unless it got damaged on the trail.

Sounds more like set up (in both cases?) Is the mech fitted correctly on the hanger?

Cable going into rear mech too short?

I cant think its down to the b screw being too short.

Pics would help though.

A few better options on pinkbike definitely.

I liked the Whyte 901 i tried but was disappointed when they told me no frame options.

Hope you keep amd enjoy this one.

Not happened to any of my forks ever.

Yep, its to protect the sole of the shoe and stop the serrated part of the cleat digging into the shoe itself.

Nice one. Very satisfying building your own bike.

Ask Hope?

Havent read the whole thread, but am i right that these hubs can be adapted for different axles?

If so, is that lip not just on the axle end cap, and if you remive it you cant then fit the tool and attach the rotor, then refit the end cap?

Feather Cycles? Probably Farrer though.

Isn’t that yellow?

Even thats not that cheap really.

Supposedly they make tyres for WTB and possibly others.

Yeah, but once you have the feel you want, and you know the pressure, you can replicate it reliably. I couldn’t care less what pressure I like, but I want to be able to get it back after a flat.

True, but unless you initially pump them up with the same pump you carry on the trail, as this thread proves, the pressure is unlikely to be the same even if the guage claims it is.

I couldnt tell you what my tyres have in them pressure wise. I ran them softer but it felt squirmy on the rear and i got a couple of dings in the rim. Increased it until they felt good to me and run a little less in the front.

Feel is much more important than what pressure is actually in them

Link to video on Pinkbike please

2 m5 stainless steel bolts.