Got about 20Km done. Set off under blue sky, but got to the highest point, heard thunder and saw nothing but storms heading south toward Manchester. While trying to outrun it, this looked like firm sand :D

Buy a digital vernier for a £10 – £20 and you’ll wonder how you ever did without one :)

If you buy the rims before anything else, you can measure the ERD yourself using the method and home made tool Musson outlines in the book. I found on a recent build the quoted ERD was a bit out.

The wheelpro calculator has a field for rim offset:
http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/

If emailing Ryde gets no response, method of measuring it here:
https://leonard.io/edd/howtomeasure

Polypropylene. I’m pretty sure it’s what most of the bender fender ones are made from (specifically a product named ViPrint), and it’s available down to 0.5mm thick sheets. It’s strong and incredibly chemically resistant, packaging manufacturers tend to use it whenever they need a living hinge (e.g. the top of a tictac box).

Stationery binders can be a readily available source of small amounts, but when I’ve got it that way it’s been 0.8 – 1mm thick and harder to work with. Try ebay maybe? 0.5mm is plenty strong enough if you can get it, and easy to cut with scissors.

We used equivalent Hitachis to those for a community workshop, they lasted through several years of continuous use and abuse from a couple of hundred members.

You can sometimes find heavily discounted twin packs of them, which might be overkill for DIY, but if you’re doing woodwork it’s very handy to have a drill and driver set up at the same time.

Looks like it’s been dropped.
Could happen to any drill surely ?

It could, but some brands are tougher than others. I had a Metabo one once, not that fancy, but fell off a 12 foot scaffold when I lent it out and just kept working.

DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, they’re all good drills. If you’re doing the odd job here and there the 10.8v ones will be fine.

I rolled up and over them at first, then just went at the same ones with a little bit more speed each time until I was clearing instead of casing them (I’d also had a little bit of instruction on setting the bike up for landings while in the air). I have a long way to go before I have any good technique and stop dead sailoring, but if you can find somewhere to practice and just make yourself bottle it a bit less each time, you’ll come on faster than you think.

Buy the right size. I bought one off ebay without checking, it was too small at 19.5″ and became uncomfortable to ride for long.

Reminds me of this scam I saw on Indiegogo today:
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/bleen-3d-without-glasses

It gets bonus points for using easily found stock photos, and the mockups showing it somehow projecting dark colours.

Edit: On second watch, I especially like that the arm in the bath on the Cicret video is out of focus, and the screen is in focus.

I think you might be misunderstanding how toruses behave under expansion. If only we had an exemplary sphincter to hand, everyone could see a demo.

700 is right for doing this with 26. Others might be too. ETRTO is only of limited use for this because going really close to the bead seat diameter with something as unyielding as a tubular isn’t desirable for this application.

Stepping through the process is also really interesting, because it’s showing me why, for instance, the Deaneasy designed double valves look so inelegant but were probably the best approach without Schwalbe and Syntace’s production abilities to hand. Interestingly, they appear to have ended up only selling pre-prepared rims rather than the valves, too.

My own anecdata to add: A non-religious friend born in Britain, who worked organising international activities on behalf of the British Government, with a family originally from India, was stopped and searched by Police in Brixton roughly once a week for the few years she spent there. I’m sure they did their maths beforehand though.

I saw it the other day and thought it was fake until I saw the one with police tape around it. Taping them off and having a bunch of officers stood around definitely doesn’t make them look insecure over all of this.

Given that I’ve spent over £50 on tubs now, maybe I should’ve waited until February :D

However:
“a claw hammer wrapped in a rag”
8O

Yeah. Tyre levers and two people working together couldn’t shift it, but that did. Two levers brought a bit of bead out over the lip, then the claw hammer slid under and let me pull on it. I managed without damaging the rim or the tyre, but I’m not letting those 650’s anywhere near it again.

Having now got a 700c tub and briefly inflated it on a 26″ rim, I’m absolutely sure of it. Once it gets to 50 – 60psi, a 700c tub swells inward to meet the rim without being too tight to take back off while inflated, but tight enough to touch the top of the beadhooks on the rim.

I mounted a tyre with a 650b tub, and it was almost impossible to get back off. I normally don’t need tyre levers at all, but this needed two tyre levers and a claw hammer wrapped in a rag before I could pull enough bead back over the rim; a tight tub inside sucks the bead in and prevents you getting any slack.

Wherever the OP lives.

Colder temperatures help with endurance.

Also, looking at the ground instead of ahead has always helped me psychologically on climbs.

I got exactly the same email. I’m electing to ignore it, but you could see how many hoops the scammers will jump through.

@batman: The other thread is two hours older than yours, dupes get locked here.

Watching this again I’m almost certain it’s a 700:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0rDNRzoVEw

The 650b tubs straighten across the last bit of the 26″ rim during mounting, just like the bead on a really tight fitting tyre. They don’t hang off it at all. The difference in ETRTO is about 60mm, which looks to be about what he’s got in terms of slack when it’s deflated. I’d never expect that much variance between different tyres of the same size.

Right, I’ve given mounting a quick go with a 650b tubular tyre, an unbuilt, untaped Spank Subrosa 26″ rim, and a Minion DHF. There’s so little slack in the tubular tyre that I think the deaneasy videos are most likely 700c tubs on 26″ rims. A couple of people elsewhere have mentioned that tubs that size expand downwards to meet the rim.

With that rim profile (hard to seat tyres, but solid once they’re in) and so little slack I give it a 10% chance of actually being able to mount at all, seat the bead and inflate. The tub and tyre sidewalls just lock together, probably not such an issue with 700c. Someone suggested talc to make make them slip; I’ll give it a go in the next few weeks and take plenty of photos.

Even with the beads of the outer tyre unseated though, the tub does lock the tyre to the sidewalls of the rim. The valve on the tubular makes it stick up from the rim and create an air gap, so it’ll definitely need tubeless tape on the rim.

Speed laces, to shave those extra few seconds off during triathlons :D

Using the company name is a good middle ground. I sometimes use “we”, but only for stuff where I take on other freelancers in order to scale a bit.

A friend in IT went full-on “we” and got a VAT number even when his turnover was way below the threshold, because both helped him to get bigger clients. I’ve found universities and corporations don’t seem to care much about I/we, but “I” always feels a bit dirty and like it’s letting them look behind the curtain. Ltd. company status makes loads of stuff/admin with them much easier though, and by itself kind of implies “we” under most circumstances.

Good luck. I lost several non-paid flickr accounts due to them disabling the associated Yahoo accounts after six months without a login. The flickr accounts still exist, but it seems there’s now no way to log in to them and nowhere to send password reset emails. Well done Yahoo, that caused me to stop paying for the flickr pro account I had.

They’re bollocks, but:

As long as you believe it works, it probably will.

aracer: less that £15 each :D

What would be best for sealing the tubular valve to the rim? PTFE tape?

Dunno, but when I try this I’ll take photos. I’ve a feeling it’ll need proper tubeless tape.

Stupid question but.. how are you planning on getting the air out of the part with the trainer tyre so that it inflates the tubeless part?

People who have tried it or are planning on trying it have been making a holes in the tyre and putting a tape collar on the innertube to leave a gap for air, which mimics Schwalbe’s setup. It looks really faffy to me though, so it’s one of the reasons I’m put off that approach.

I’m leaning toward just putting extra valve holes in my rims right now: Mount half of MTB tyre, mount tub, insert other MTB bead, inflate tub to seat tyre, deflate tub, push tub valve down to create space, pour sealant through tubeless valve, inflate both chambers. I might make a spacer for the tubeless valve so it can be used to adjust the outer chamber pressure even with the tub inflated.

If that works, it seems about equal in faff compared to actual procore installation, but less than a third the price.

Triple :D

I did wonder whether a slick tyre + tube would work.

A slick tyre would add a hell off a lot of weight.

Trainer tyres are pretty light and might do the job. I’ve spent the evening googling and found a bunch of people suggesting them+tubes. On looking at it more, I’m not that tempted, as a tubular tyre and second valve hole seem a lot more straightforward for a similar result.

On that note: PSA, 650 sized tubular tyre for less than £16:
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Juniores-Tubular-600x21mm-Black-Tread/VITTTUBA450

I’ve ordered a couple to experiment with. Going by other deaneasy videos, 650 tubulars sit tight enough on a 26″ rim but when deflated have more than enough slack to put sealant in through a tubeless valve.

This is really interesting, thanks sausage and asbrooks. I’ve had a very frustrating year of dinging rims, and am currently upgrading to some tougher ones but they have schrader valve holes. 26″ tubulars look pretty expensive, but I reckon I could machine a collar and base to work with a slightly modified presta valve on a narrow inner tube+trainer tyre.

Weird ride today, we went through loads of different kinds of weather. At the start was hail, then low cloud, then snow, then high winds, then really calm frozen trails, then a bit of rain. All in an hour and a half and about 800 feet. We did a climb where we had to get off because the trail was under an inch of transparent ice, and just after the highest point the trail was frozen sand in still conditions. Really beautiful!

So at the faster end I’ll be losing a lot of pedelling speeds.
Old: 42/11- 3.81
New: 30/11 – 2.72

This is where you have to decided wether you want to pedal faster or struggle uphill?

Having gone from 3x to 2x in the last few years, I’d go for the better hill climbing gears if you’re not using the bike for commuting or the like. I’m on 22+36 rings at the front, and and 11-36 cassette. I’ve found the 36 chainring a good compromise. By myself, I don’t notice the lack of a big ring, and with other MTBers, we’re never on road for long, they’re running similar setups, and to extent you can make up for the smaller ratio high gears with a higher cadence.

Anyone here use pedals that cost north of £200 like the Syntace NumberNine’s on the Fresh Goods?

I borrowed a bike for today with those exact pedals on. Didn’t notice any difference to the nanos I usually ride with.

Eeer, careful. I happen to know a bloke with 25, and you don’t want to annoy him on this site

Those get played and tinkered with though, they don’t sit in glass boxes or frames :)

Edit: I guess even starred out swears can get a post deleted if there aren’t enough asterisks. So, I think “what a ******* *******” whenever I see this:

The Wheelpro book is good. My attempts to even all the spoke tensions not so much, but it is very true… for now :|

I’ll bring money to the MNPR.

It’s not so much the waterproofing, my Sombrios + sealskins aren’t too bad but it’ s the sliding about in the hike-a-bike sections that drives me mad. I suppose a flat sole that sticks to your pedals is inevitably incompatible with a sole that grips on slippy mud on slippy limestone. Anybody find anything that does both?

I got a pair of waterproof walking boots with vibram soles, and they’re the closest I’ve found to this. The soles are ridged enough that pedal pins go into them okay, but they can grip on mud and wet rocks. The only problem is that they’re sponges if I get caught in a downpour. Someone on here mentioned scuba ankle seals to stop water getting in the top, going to give that a go this winter.

I had a big list of things to fix on four bikes this weekend, and two wheels to build. All I managed was dismantling a BMX, indexing the road bike, and loafing around eating chocolate.

molgrips – Member
Oh yeah.. just remembered why I posted this.. almost had an utter disaster. I was bleeding the brakes using the Hope bleed tool – the one that uses compressed air from a tyre to force fluid through the system. Just as I was undoing the cap on the lever I remembered that I hadn’t disconnected the pressure…

I was bleeding a hope recently, with some tube and an old empty lube bottle. The seal was good enough that it built up loads of air pressure in the bottle without me realising, then sprayed dot 5.1 all over the caliper inside and out as I took the tube off the bleed nipple :/

hairyscary – Member
Admittedly this was crash damage……they still warrantied it though!

Youch! Mate’s just had both frames start to crack near the top of the down tube. TBF, their customer service seems to be good :)

I can’t believe how many spares you lot have just lying about. Do you all impulse buy components in sales?

Moved somewhere I can MTB without needing a car :)

Survived a fourth year of freelancing.

For the first time, went to the Alps and did a MTB descent so long my ears popped several times on the way down.

Found some decent sized tabletops and pushed myself until I wasn’t casing them. Next year I want to progress onto gap jumps without being sh*t scared of them.

Got my first road bike and did some cols.

Tried BMX racing for the first time.

I’m using a TS2 at the moment. As long as it’s not on a tilted surface, it’s bottom heavy enough to work well without the base. If you’ve got a suitable bench, there are also a couple of holes in the bottom you could use to bolt it down.

I got this dishing tool from Rose Bikes, and while the TS2 would let you get away without it, it is handy being able to take a few readings really quickly from different parts of the wheel.

Erm… just a spare SLX clutch mech for when I inevitably smash the one currently on the hardtail, and some BMX wheels that I’m planning to sell. I don’t have much lying around; I’m ruthless when it comes to selling or passing on bits I’m not using.

And also, the 146 might crack if you store it too hard

I loled. Got a mate who warrantied two of those so far.

Oh, c*ck, spotted a jacket I wanted. SOAP, mind if I yoink one of those codes back please? :)