handshaped by a tibetan monk using a hammer made of meteoric iron.

Where can we get this bell NW? Does it come with a beard mount option?

If you’re anywhere near Hebden Bridge, Blazing Saddles have a box of PDW bells at the moment. Two types, £12 and £15.

The other day, an old man shouted at me for not having a bell. Bike was stationary, I’d done everything I could to be considerate and alert him. Some people are just pricks, I rode away rather than try and reason with him.

Tried emailing Slik once and never got a response.

Care to elaborate? Am I confusing semi-floating with floating?

Probably yes.

Every company selling them for MTB calls them floating. Then a pedant turns up in every thread to correct it.

I had superstar floating rotors a few years back. They were ok, though had some fork clearance issues with Recons. I also had to true them about as often as one piece rotors, so went back to standard ones when building my current bike.

Mine had play, at first I thought it might be the end caps but it was because the bearings had gone. They didn’t feel like it if I took the wheel off and moved them with my finger, but they had.

Going by the amount of play, sounds like the problem might be a little worse in your case though.

Oh yeah, anchovies are great. Not always up to the task with sidewall tears though.

simon_g got there first. Unless you really hate things that are a bit weird, Tim Hunkin’s arcade is fantastic.

Custom Riders tend to have Flybikes BMXes knocked down from RRP:
http://www.customriders.com/prodlist.asp?a=srch&srchstr=&specialoffer=&srchIS=&srchProduct=57&srchBrand=4049&sort=1&pg=1

I bought a 2012 Proton from them for around £280, and it’s been great compared to the ebay cheapo I was riding and the hire bikes at the NCC.

Rag in hand around chain, run pedals backwards until most muck is lifted. Drop of lube on inside of each roller. Soak in degreaser if alternating chains, after wet rides blast chain with WD40 by spraying onto chain at lower jockey wheel while running pedals backwards.

If you have HT2 BB or the like, an Andystand is perfect for all of this.

Yeah, a proper Mint Sauce day over in Tod too.

I’ve used large moto patches (like regular vulcanising patches but much bigger) and bits of old inner tube. I usually put a few stitches over the cut with dental floss before patching it inside and out.

Probably bin the pads, but I’ve had success using a blowtorch on sintered pads that had been tainted with something.

singlespeedstu, is the frame bag for pork scratchings?

Ooh, nice bars flashes.

The Genesis got me wondering about ways SS can work with disc brakes, and I got totally distracted by this dropout and a fascinating series of blog posts about designing it: 1, 2, 3, 4

After a quick look at belt drives I extracted myself from the rabbit hole, realising I would yet again end up with a nice bike I didn’t want to lock up in public places. Looks like my existing (Mango Bikes kind of thing) frame has way more tyre clearance than expected, so I’ll try some 32C Randonneurs and rebuild the wheels with wider, less flashy rims if necessary.

I had a very religious upbringing in a cult that absolutely forbade sex before marriage. Until the age of about fifteen, I was pretty pious and didn’t really know anything else. I visited the doctor after getting what turned out to be a zit on my todger, and as if the mechanics of the examination weren’t embarrassing enough, he assumed I was worried about STIs and spent the entire time being jovial and matey in a “Haha, haven’t you been a busy boy, go get ’em tiger!” kind of way. It was excruciating to be a mostly normal teenager in that situation, but with all the guilt-laden religiously conditioned parts of my brain wanting to shout “No, no I haven’t been HAVING SEX!”

PJay – Member
So would the Switch be a better option than Shimano cup and cone hubs (Deore or XT)?

While I haven’t specifically had Shimanos, I have had cup and cone hubs. I’ve found the Switches much better.

I got one of their wheelsets just over two years ago. When they arrived they were about 1mm out of true, and I’ve since upgraded the weeny XC rims they originally had, but the Switch hubs have been absolutely fine.

I guess it depends on how long you want before they fall to bits. Royal and Thor gloves are lasting me much longer than 661s did.

I’ll be trying it soon so will let you know. I like the idea of more grip, but mainly I pinch flat a lot on the HT and would like something on the back to stop that.

I have the bits but haven’t had the time near a lathe to make the home made tubular tyre version I was going to, but the procore valve seems to be exactly the same kind of thing I was planning to turn in brass: spacer between tube and rim, lateral holes that line up between that and the adapter when it’s unscrewed. I expected it to be more complicated, and I’d be surprised if something similar hasn’t at least been sketched by the guys behind Deaneasy too.

I’ve run a Crank Bros. Kronolog and a KS Lev.

The Kronolog almost immediately seized the first time it was out in the rain, and over the winter completely shredded one if its own seals.

The KS gets sticky from time to time in winter, so needs an occasional service, but is generally flawless (I’ve had it six months and discovered I should probably service every three, in winter at least).

Bolle Silium glasses have much lower profile frames than the Contour.

hebdencyclist – Member
This happens wherever hobby geeks and mainstream consumer culture collide. Women must get sick of it

“IPod you say, dear? Tsk. What you need is a Thorens turntable and custom tone arm, connected to this amp I’ll make for you using these old valves I’ve sourced from old Soviet military radios. What’s that? You can’t listen to it on the bus? Well screw you then, ungrateful, know-nothing little minx.”

“Camera you say, dear? Nikon Coolpix? Ha. You need this Leica M5 and an assortment of Zeiss lenses, each worth more than a family hatchback. What do you mean you don’t understand about f-stops and white balance and just want to take some snaps of the kids? Pah. I give up.”

Etc

I enjoyed this post

wwaswas – Member
Is it just me who finds the whole ‘kick her in the slats’, ‘get a blow job’ and ‘look at her chest’ a bit unnecessary and not really what stw should be about?

Not just you. That kind of **** is grim and sad.

Shimano CM-1000 is really good. Sony AS100V not as good a picture, but cheaper and weatherproof.

Backwards off seatpost tends to be quite stable too. I’ve never had good footage off a bar mount though.

This was some testing of the fork lower mount I made, but it was a massive clamp over a wrap of electrical tape, then a custom camera case secured to it by four bolts:

The only problem I’ve seen with gopro footage and premiere is that it doesn’t handle 47.95fps. Other frame rates should work fine.

andysredmini – Member

I wonder how the footage would of looked from a handlebar mount which should be more solid.

Equipment mounts are generally a lot more shaky than body mounts, as they take vibrations from the bike. The only time I’ve had one not do that is when I CNCed a massive double clamp to mount a camera on some fork lowers (Bar mounts also tend to look terrible, as without any of the bike or rider in frame to contextualise the shot, it gives little sense of scale or speed).

Head mounts suffer on rough trails unless you have a strong neck. With a chest mount, you either tighten it down to the point where it’s a little bit uncomfortable, or construct a harness with a longer baseplate to give the camera a more stable base.

I’ve only had it lift on wide rims where it didn’t go far enough up to the edges. So far, wider tape cut down has been holding just fine.

Ace ride, and that Marsden moor descent was incredible. I should have eaten more before setting off though; thanks for getting me back to the pub :)

The loud boom from the bike behind made me flinch:

I have a gorilla tape setup on the front and it went up fine. The rim is powder coated and it had trouble sticking even after a wipe with IPA, so I put a couple of layers of electrical tape down over the centre of the rim channel first for it to stick to.

As scienceofficer says, it leaves horrible residue on your rim. IPA will get it, but other tapes are easier to clean up.

I just got back from a weekend away with the intention of dawdling, fettling, then riding down to the Winepress for 8. Clover just reminded me it starts at 6. Hopefully see you all there at 6.

Reading comprehension is so poor on the internet nowadays.

Novatech/Superstar Switch (same hub apparently) front hubs are pretty cheap, run on sealed bearings, and take adapters for QR, 15mm or 20mm.

I’m not sure which Novatech the Switches are copied from, because they make a lot of different ones.

“Getty Images” stenciled behind some chainlink under a dingy concrete bridge.

Use bitcoin to replace your middlemen with a volatile declining market! :D

Tom_W1987 – Member
Commentator came off as being some 12 year old commenting on a compilation of Call of Duty head shots.

You’re being pretty flattering to that crowd there Tom.

You can have a personal and a business one. There are differences in fees and limits. If you set up a business one, make sure you pick the right type (Having the wrong type will cause the account to be frozen). PayPal may demand scans of paperwork at some point, if not when you set it up, then certainly as soon as a heap of money flows into it.

It’ll likely be frozen soon after you start taking money for anything. Don’t get arsey with them, provide the paperwork they request, and it’ll be fine.