Checked sidewalls and nothing obvious

This was my problem with my set-up. if you disconnect from your phone, the hrm will pair with Kiox, but then it will not reconnect to your phone until Kiox is switched off. What does connecting through the phone give you that you won’t get from the Kiox? I think if you really need both, you might need 2 hrm….

Is the Kiox ant+ capable? My old HR was only Bluetooth – it would only connect to one device. Likewise though my newer hrm is both ant+ and Bluetooth, it will only link to 2 devices if one is ant+ and one is Bluetooth – if both are Bluetooth it only connects to the first one to establish a connection

Check your Passport. It’s titled “United Kingdom of Great Britain & Northern Ireland” which more or less explains it!

Volvo have heated windscreen. V40 is their Ford Focus equivalent

Did the check of C Drive. No errors detected and then when I ran the sfc/scannnow routine, after it finished I got the message ‘Windows Resource Protection did not find any integrity violations’ so I guess that means my hard disc is OK?

Thanks, Cougar. A lot to think about there (for me anyway…. (: )
One last Q before I try this, if I gave all my historic emails in outlook folders and I move to a new email cliyas suggested, I guess they will stay in Outlook, and I would need to access them separately from things coming into the new client?
I’ll run the suggested fixes tonight’ in case it takes a while – got a lot on today. Many thanks

Cougar, sorry, I’m not very IT literate!

Things are ok if I log onto the controldns server that hosts my email from my PC if I do this using a web Browser and logging in,
or
from my phone email which I think from when I set it up effectively does it through a web browser (Ie for phone I put in server address and password to the email setup wizard)

Sui, no. If a file is corrupted when I receive it, then it stays that way if I forward it to someone else, or if I save it to C drive and then try to open it. If I forward same problem email from the dns server, then it can be opened and attachments read without a problem

I have run repair on MS Office and it has made no difference

Cougar, my emails come to a commercial server that I use for my business which is a dns server – does that make sense? If I check email attachments in my phone, they are ok, so I guess that is accessing that server directly (if I delete things there they never reach my PC so I guess so). But the same email attachments are sometimes corrupted after they are downloaded to my PC

it is Glenn, but turning it off has made no difference

OK, I have tried turning off MacAfee (real-time scanning and Firewall). Has not solved the problem – it is still happening

Thanks, scotroutes – but I don’t think it is that simple. I have used Macafee for years without issue and it is not removing the attachments. They are still there, just unreadable. It’s not as if they are being quarantined. Also sometime the same attachment comes through OK, sometimes not. With pdfs, it can be that all of a page is gone or anything from 20%, 50% or 80% up to 100% of content can be accessed

Odd that they chose 1st April to publish – you’d think they’d worry that people might ultimately doubt its seriousness

Thanks, all. Rockhopper, that looks good, but I wasn’t sure how it would go with skinny tyres. Found a review which said that the little grips inside the clamp had cut slots in someone’s road tyres with the rocking side to side creating a sawing type action. Think I will go for the 561 :)

Thanks otsdr, that is useful to know. My reading of your post though is if I have standard Alu drop outs on the fork, then the supplied clamp on the 561 will work fine?

Carbon forks and carbon drop outs, Pickle, or carbon forks with Alu drop outs?

Petition over 2 million now

Drac, it’s not Sci-fi ;) (unless you are a conspiracy theorist)

Depends on the size of your arms, surely, Perchy?

13 kHz for me :( But on the plus side I can go for a walk in the woods at night without suffering bat noise!

Alan Sugar (road)

Thanks all. Just to clarify something, when I said braking, I didn’t mean coming to a stop. it would have been more accurate to say ‘modulating’ speed when riding in a bunch where the pace is varying. It could just be a few km/h for any number of reasons, but I was not talking about emergency stops!

Simond – how do you brake then?!
Crazylegs – Kerley, thanks for confirming (and Kerley I have no intention of trying on the road, with brakes or without!)
KCR – it’s not a question of it influencing gear choice, but an awareness of one of the possible consequences of any choice made
Thanks All! :)

Assuming you have everything correct with those numbers, the front tyres are now bigger than the rear. This will affect your actual speed vs displayed speed assuming the correct tyre size for your vehicle is the 65 on R15 (you will be going faster than you think). if it is the rear ones that are actually the wrong ones for your vehicle, (too small) it won’t affect your speedo.

In either case I would think that having different sizes like this on a car not designed to take that might affect the handling to some extent

There was a Tory MP being interviewed on the BBC news there saying that Parliament had to support the Government on the No Confidence Vote because Labour did not have a clear policy on Europe and Brexit….

Excuse the potentially stupid question, but what happens with the N/S Irish border in a No Deal Brexit Scenario? There would have to be border checks wouldn’t there?

ahhhh

what’s the one to do with the days of the week on the Building?

and I don’t get Opposites Attract – how does that work out?

Depends where you are, the system is different in different places. Best to check with your local cebtre

Not me, but my wife gets this all the time. An innocent ‘Could you just look st this, …’ turns into a 2 hour session of trying to figure out what the hell has been done since the last intervention, accompanied by hovering over her shoulder to ‘check you don’t mess anything up like last time’. I don’t know where she finds the patience

RustyNP – have you got your Volvo V70 on steel wheels?  I’m looking to get a set for my 2015 V60 D4, but I cannot find anywhere that will assure me that 162 steel wheels of the correct bolt configuration will actually fit my car (other than the bolt holes being in the right place)

bikebouy

Subscriber
<div class=”bbcode-quote”>
Ask anyone who’s driven an automatic fir the first time.
</div>
Not being an arse, but why would this be a thing?
Driving an auto for the first time the natural instinct is to use the right foot for braking just like in a manual.
Erm.exactly… right foot Go pedal, right foot Brake pedal.
Leave your left foot on the rest provided.
I can’t visualise any other way of driving an automatic vehicle.
Why do people confuse the simplest of tasks?

Bikebuoy – you perhaps missed reference to ‘for the first time’.  Even if you do park your left foot as suggested, the instinct is to hit the clutch the first time you stop.  Many people find their foot hunting for the clutch pedal automatically and ultimately find the brake instead.  Generally you only do this once!

You’re conditioned just as you almost stop to fully disengage the clutch. If you’re relaxed you’ll do it without thinking, except you’ll really punch the brake.  Ask anyone who’s driven an automatic fir the first time.

theotherjonv – to be even more pedantic, only if your scales are recently calibrated to a certified reference standard ;)

Thanks, all.  dc2.0, I had heard of the seatpost man, but figured there’s nothing he can do that I can’t.  Your story about the daccordi is my biggest concern as this is a nice frame so I am taking it carefully.  I’ve already tried freezing tube, hot air gun and adding penetrating oil for days

My plan is to try Coke first – nothing to lose and then see if I can twist while upside down in vice without going crazy – I worry about twisting the frame as it has machined out lugs so don’t plan to approach it too vigorously.  If no luck there (I’m sceptical to be honest) then I will move to caustic and just keep trying until it comes.  If it gets to the stage of dissolving the post, that will be fine!

Will post again once there is progress :) .

So… the option of cutting a vertical slot into the existing post isn’t going to happen.  I have lopped the top off the old seat post and discovered there is about 19cm inside the frame.  There is no way I am going to make a cut that long and manage to keep it totally the same depth the length of it to avoid damaging seat tube.  Also that depth is going to be bonded pretty tight with galvanic corrosion, so I think it’s going to have to be chemical means to at least get it loosened up.

Intrigued by references to Coke.  I know that’s corrosive, but I think its acidic and so would not really impact the aluminium oxide that is the problem here.  I think it has to be caustic soda, which is much nastier to handle.  For this reason, I would try Coke as a first choice but does anyone know of real world experience of it being used successfully in this application?

Got the headset cups out no problem using the bearing puller with slide hammer.  On reflection this definitely wouldn’t work with the seat post, even if I chopped it off level with the frame because the bottom is too far in to reach with the bearing puller.  Need to reconsider approach with fall back to one of the methods mentioned

wwaswas – its a blind bearing puller, and yes, it includes a slide hammer.

The headset cups are the primary focus, but both comments noted about the seat post.  I don’t really care what happens to it, I just want to get it out.  Hope to preserve the headset cups though

“I selected the brown color which is awesome but has some kind of colored panel that I will have to get used to at the back.”

if it’s at the back you won’t need to worry about getting used to it! :)