Posted up on Facebook and told others, real shame and how they find his next of kin soon.

Always carry ID on all rides, it’s on my phone screen , in my bag, ID bracelet with medical info. Missus can also track the phone if she wants to. Seems excessive but it’s there should it ever be needed, and allows me to go wherever I want without needing to tell anyone.

Paste the wall if the paper lets you, it’s much easier, and some of the paste the wall papers are thiner and will get over soaked if you do the paper, leading to ripping.

Had 330d, currently have 335d. Coming out of company car scheme, so changing again. Going back to a 430d GC, as I can’t stand x drive, it really ruins the car in looks and feel. It is faster, but it’s not as fun, so loosing a tiny amount of performance to get better handling.

If you could get 335 with s drive, it would be a no brainier. But the 30d with PPK is much more fun and as fast, for me anyway.

That’s all F30/F36, e90s I think you could get rwd on 335d.

Currently discounts for both engines are about the same. Massive discounts on the 5s at the moment, which means a 535 will be much cheaper than a 330 or 335 either outright or finance, finance much more so but didn’t go that route

If they are tech savvy they’re is always a way around it without going for a full Mobile Device Management solution, which you won’t want to manage or pay for!

Use the networks filters, as it’s better than nothing. And if possible restrict the networks that can be joined for WiFi so you can restrict at home.

If he has proven he can’t be trusted, then get a dumb phone. You’ve spoken to him enough times by the sound of it, there are only so many chances you can give out.

Oh don’t forget do the ceil;ing too, brightens it up no end

Mine was done with breathable emulsion, the bricks suck up paint so you will need more than you think. My garage took 40 litres IIRC. Edit it was 4 x tubs of 10ltr

Before painting it was all brushed down to remove dust

I tiled my floor as I had it in an old house and if well fitted with good tiles there is nothing more durable. Cars parked on it no problem, hammers dropped, spills easily cleared – it’s an effort but well worth it.

Garage now dust free, much brighter and is a nice place to be. If I get the floors covered in mud and junk it can be brushed out or in extreme cases hosed out.

The garage is used for bike builds, engine rebuilds, DIY projects etc etc, so gets well used it’s not a showroom.

When people hear you have tiled a floor they think you are utter freak, until they’ve worked in its and try to do it themselves. To make it cost effective look out for end of line tiles and grab a job lot depending on garage size

Only Samsung has released a true ultra HD Bluray player as far as I know, the rest are coming next year

Have any uhd blurays been released on the new standard?

Stick with what you have until the content is out there for physical media, you’ll be relying on other media for a while yet unless you want to watch demo disks. You’ll also pay through the nose

My dad had/has it. He had his psa checked since 50 every 2 years through his work health check, so had a baseline. When he moved off the baseline he was caught very quickly and now it’s all being managed.

I’ve also been told I need do it from 40 as someone else said for the reasons already said. Anyone questioning if the should get it checked out should just get it checked out. My Dad had a crap year, but is fine now although will always need to keep an eye on it. As with all cancer, time will always help, leaving it late will not.

I presume you have a job, and your not relying on her earning and giving you money?

And buying the bike will not mean anyone in the family going without, or you getting into debt?

If so just say your buying it, and buy it. Simple really.

If you can’t actually afford it, don’t buy it.

If there is no particular reason to get a mac, stick with Windows It’ll be cheaper in the short term.

If someone really wants a Mac, or is really used to a Mac then they should be getting a mac.

As you say it’s for Office general stuff, there is no compelling reason to get a Mac or Windows so go with whatever is preferred.

All my machines are Mac, as I just prefer they way they work – but I have VM’s on all of them to run Windows, for some specific apps. Windows 10 is fine, but it’s still very confusing like it’s trying to be like a mac, but not quite a mac, a PC is best when it’s being a PC in my opinion. Windows is getting simpler, but it feels far less logical – but familiarity is the biggest thing I know.

The argument is that Win 10 comes alive with a touch screen, my work machine had windows 8 and a touch screen and I was told the same – leaning over a keyboard to interact with a screen is odd, a tablet makes sense and laptop less so, a desktop even less so.

Pro with retina screen, try to get max ram and don’t get a tiny 128gb SSD, unless you have an external drive to keep your content on.

Saying that both will do. I have a 2011 air, a 2015 pro. Pro is my main machine, air is the family machine but works well, only struggles with video editing and vm’s really, but can do it at a push but storage was main issue when working, so it was retired for a pro.

side by side, pro is smaller, but slightly thicker – both 15″. Both form factors need a refresh, but Air particularly has lost it’s compelling reason to buy over a pro since the DVD drive and magnetic drive were killed

Upgrade to Yosemite, and use the jre 6 from Apple. Runs cs6 fine on mine, and many others report the same.

El capitan has also been reported to run with the updated jre6 installer, although there are security risks associated with it.

You should also be able to downgrade your iPad back to iOS 8 as I believe it is still signed, but that may have changed. You may need to find a friend with a more up to date version of iTunes to achieve this though

Why do you need a 40mm wide rim? I still remain to be convinced it in real terms makes any difference whatsoever. I can show a picture of the same tyre, one mounted to a 23.4mm internal width rim and one mounted to a 30mm rim & they look exactly the same.

Regarding the lower pressure thing – again if you don’t ride hard. Otherwise it feels like a nasty, squirming flat tyre that’s more likely to pinch flat & crack the rim. So, in reality, lots of issues.

I like the feel of them, so far in the 6 months I have been riding them I have had zero burps, compared to one every couple of weeks on flows. I can show you a picture of a tyre, one mounted to a 23.4mm internal rim and another mounted to a 30mm rim and they look completely different – all it points to is tyre selection becomes important when you go to wider rims.

Low pressure on flows feels like a flat just as you described, but on a wider rim it doesn’t the squirm is gone – and its for those reasons I like them. For others you might not lend importance to these factors, so justification becomes even harder.

They will not revolutionise riding in anyway, but they make small marginal improvements FOR ME (not measured in seconds but feel) and I can, so I will – simple really.

Riding my old bike with flows etc now feels like a lumbering beast. Did I think it felt like that at the time, of course not it felt great. But on that level my first car felt like it was amazing at the time, going back to an E reg fiesta nowadays doesn’t feel so great – doesn’t mean it doesn’t work as a car, but my reference points have changed

I’ve got one, in an incipio case with tempered screen protector, as they are quite slippy. Case is same as the 6, I just used my old one.

The 6 is the only smartphone I’ve ever cracked a screen on as it slid out of my hand as I got out the car, so this one will be protected to avoid it.

Not with the correct tools, which are cheap these days edit, that was in response to your question about terminating cables!

For the same weight you can go wider, an alu rim running at a 40mm width would be much much heavier. This width allows you to run lower pressures without issues.

Some say the being able to run at lower pressures is rubbish I know, but I can now run crazy low pressures that with skinny alu rims the tyre would burp, or fold over, running wider seems to have stopped this.

So they are lighter than my old alu rims, but it’s down to a few grams, the weight saving means they can run the same weight and wider that for me is worth it. But say they are not lighter is not apples to apples.

I also like stiffer rims as a concept, the suspension is there to move, the tyre provides some travel, so prefer to be able to work with that. That for me isn’t a harsh ride, but it’s letting each component do its job, but that’s more the geek in me I guess.

I like them and don’t really want to go back from carbon. They are not worth missing meals for, they do not make your life better, or any other rubbish. If you can get them great, if not I wouldn’t worry.

They are standing up to more abuse than I expected, if bent plenty of alu rims and only the chunky ones were fit and forget, and with those there is more of a weight difference.

Some people will never trust carbon, and that is more of a factor for some people, but my life has depended on carbon more than a bike wheel, so have faith that carbon is workable and here to stay. Don’t try to convince yourself to like it.

If you want them try them and see, if you don’t like them great move on, if you do buy them, simple

Speak to more agents. I went with one that was 20k higher than all the others, but crucially said he had 2 couples that he wanted to view and would be prepared to stretch to that price. When you go with an agent, you should ideally be buying them for their client book not for what they think it’s worth. It’s one of the few things an estate agent actually has as an asset!

The Thule stuff is all silver so if you have a dark coloured car it’s even more obvious

My roof bars (Thule) are all black, it’s only the bike racks themselves that are silver. So if you take the carriers off it’s black bars and feet on a black car, which is OK.

If the OP is trying to avoid roof bars, that need mounting to the roof, and then a way of holding on a bike it will mean you need bars going across and then a bike carrier at 90 deg to those bars. There is no real way of hiding the fact you have a bike on a roof, as you have well a bike on your roof.

Why would the missus not approve, is it looks or hassle? Putting bikes on my roof takes about 10 mins, 2 bars, 4 bolts, lock in place, slide the carriers on, mount bikes and go. Just remove when you are home. Takes up the same space in the garage as the bike rack

Option 5 – make sure you’re happy with the location. I know from experience relocating is hard to do if you can’t bimble around the area and get a feel from it. Certain places that on paper look great just don’t click, others it’s the opposite. If you rent you can take whatever fits on paper and find a better long term bet.

No house I have ever lived in has been correct on paper, but it works for other reasons. Renting in the area makes this far easier, and takes the hassle out of it. Also you get the luxury of selling your place, knowing you won’t be homeless. Being in a chain, even if it’s just you, is a pain and a hassle when you throw distance in

I used singletrack school in the south once, seemed pretty good but it was a basic course that was right for me at the time. Would use them again for some more advanced coaching, but now live elsewhere in the country so not really practicle

If you have pads wear them. I know wear mine pretty much on any ride. After having fracturing my kneecap as a teenager, I know how utterly annoying a knee injury is. Once they are knackered, they are never right again – so just protect them – your old self will thank you.

If you’re worried about how you look, you’re probably in the wrong hobby anyway ! Most people dress like colourblind clowns on a day trip sporting a clashing neon bike (me included) so some knee pads won’t really make it much worse

Don’t pay it if you don’t think it’s worth it.

Parts may not exist, could have worn out, not everyone sells parts when upgrading.

Prices aren’t set by some kind of government approved pricing based on oficial guidance, price to as much as you can get away with. If it doesn’t sell drop the price, same for houses cars and anything else

Hi,going by the description below which fork would you think you would receive.
Fox Racing Shox 36 K Float FIT Factory Series RC2 26 Inch 160mm MTB Fork – Kashima Stanchions 2016

It’ll be the rc2, don’t believe they do the fit4 in 26. RC2 is a FIT damper, with LSC AND HSC, as well as rebound.

As for the original question I have the rc2 and wouldn’t swap it, love being able to adjust for what I need. I find that with full control of the shock you need a more adjustable fork to balance it out, so if you have a 4 way adjustable shock a more adjustable fork makes sense. If you just want to set and run, then stick to fit4.

Only other thing is if you want the qr, as that’s fit4 only. Personally I don’t find the bolts an issue, but I don’t take my wheel off to get it in the car

im all for spending your own money on what you can afford, but do rich people not still have an appreciation for value for money?

It strikes me that with very little effort on the internet the same bike could be put together for sub 6k…

Yes thats already been said, as well as the fact that Bike Radar have listed a US review and got the prices wrong, and the XTR 1x Works build is not even available in the UK anymore. Dealers will do the same build as listed for the target price you have stated I would imagine, by doing a custom build on a frame.

I’m not trying to defend the bike because I own one, but that build is not 8.5k, which can easily be seen just looking on the Ibis UK site – you can by the SRAM Works build and take the SRAM drive train off set fire to it if you wish, and put on a XTR group including cranks and front ring for less than 7k. Or custom build with better kit in the first place for several k less than the 8.5k in that article.

For the same level of kit and Sb6C or Bronsan came out in the same ball park, still expensive but no one is paying 8.5k for that build kit

Frame only £2900 with Pike RCT3 “upgrade” £3890 ? £990 for a Pike? thats offensive.

You’re looking at US prices Frame only is £2650 with DB inline, on the Ibis site, although I paid a fair chunk less as most would have done.

UK does not have frame and shock option, only frame only and full builds. But you’re looking at the pike price in USD.

Yep mine was much better value building myself, mine came in a few k less than that and has XX1/XTR group set, 36 up front, Hope brakes as I preferred them to XTR’s, Thompson dropper, SIXC carbon bars, Hope parts for the rest of it etc. Wheels are Derby carbon rather than Ibis as I wanted them on hope hubs and building Derby’s on my choice of seemed better value.

The top end build kits of the SC’s, Ibis, Yeti etc are getting really poor value IMO. Found it much cheaper to get exactly what I wanted, and most of that was from standard bricks and mortar shops as they were prepared to come to an agreement on a deal. And I wanted to build myself so a win win for me.

Saying that the same build as the one reviewed but with X01 and X1 (still with carbon wheels) is £6.3k retail (still overpriced IMO) and you will likely be able to get a discount, you really don’t need to spend the price they listed!

Also the build they list has been dropped from the UK market it seems.

I bought it as for me it was the perfect bike and I wanted the build exactly as I wanted, cost was slightly less than other brands (about £300) as the frame was marginally cheaper just a long lead time, but I think that is true of any frame when its new. But you really don’t need to spend 8.5k particularly for the items you get.

Added to that, every time you get in the car it defaults to comfort.

Believe you can code out that.

Also,look at ACS springs to fix the ride hight

Fine, been offered for years in Europe, just only come recently to uk. I don’t have it any moreas it’s only needed for about 14 hours each year for most of the uk and think it ruined the drive. Suspension is about an inch higher on msport models than sdrive, so does look much higher, but they drive ok just not as fun as rear drive, still more fun than an audi though. Would stick to s drive with a set of winter tyres if you’re worried about winter driving, 320d doesn’t really need 4 wheel drive to tame it. Look on f30 post for more details of reliability, but not seen any issues about reliability.

I had an f30 335d for a year and 30 k miles apart from 2 standard services there were no issues so it wouldn’t concern me, but 330d with PPK (which I swapped to) is more fun so would say that xdrive on a 320 would suck the fun out of it, and certainly not worth a premium

Extended warranty costs the same for x drive and s drive also if that’s a concern, so should be the same cost to maintain over the first 6 years of so.

Use the Park IR-1 routing tool, takes a couple of minutes when there are no guides at all. Took about 15 mins for all cables to be routed including through swing arm etc

Lube, lube and more lube. Then it will slide on, says the same in fitting guide. Without it it struggles to bottom down, also makes removal easier

Grab bag of mounts

http://www.johnlewis.com/gopro-grab-bag-of-mounts/p231724176

Also findable on eBay if you search for go pro adapters

Hero4 Black, no issues for me

I like: http://britishbeefjerky.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3

Prefer billtong, especially this in wet chunk form:

http://biltongdirect.co.uk/original-beef-biltong-gluten-msg-free-/prod_2.html

Also MyProtein billtong is pretty good and cheap as a kind of everyday choice, bit salty so goes better with drinks.

Did you say iPod shuffle? If so that won;t work, must be a classic, touch, or iPhone

Yes, I run it the other way round, indexing is the same

No problem, could be if you passed your test then drove an auto for years, then bought a manual I suppose.

I left foot brake in both cars, it’s just a habit, so easy enough to train your left foot if you want to

All DB Inlines have a CS switch, which is not the same as a lock out but works really well.

See write up here: http://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/dbinline/climb-switch-technology

DB Air has two versions, one with one without CS, inline is CS only.

On the Norco website you can see the climb switch at the top of the shaft if you zoom in, it’s the gold switch near the linkage.

I don’t really use it on an HD3, but that may be down to suspension design, but I think the shock pedals well. But if the mags are saying bobs an issue, it could be a useful tool

Could be alphagal allergy, which is an allergy to any meat from a mammal which explains why you have it with pork as well as red meat. My cousin developed this a few years ago, doctors claimed it was from some bug bite.

As for protien shakes, assuming you are on whey, try switching to Casien or as said above a veg derived protien. If you’re not sure what one you have, it’s probably whey. Unless you’re lactose intolerant, the skip Casien but it doesn’t sound like you are

As long as they are not filling up on junk, and are getting nutrients, still growing etc – then I wouldn’t push it.

Our son never used to eat much, sister ate loads – they are twins so it’s easier to compare, but she would eat his food and he would give it away. He would take ages to eat anything. As a result at the age of 10 she looked about 3 years older than him.

But now, he will eat everything and never stop eating. His body just wasn’t asking for the nutrients. Now they are both more active than ever before, so just eat and eat, but he has combined his appetite with eating all types off food and before it would only be bland things, whereas she is fussier and only wants to eat veg and beige food.