I wouldn’t enter into any proper negotiations for anything unless I knew I was in the correct ballpark, be it cars, house, jobs whatever. So as job specs are written to sound amazing, salary is often a good way to see the various levels as the words were written to impress, and normally by someone with no functional knowledge of the job.

I treat it just the same as when negotiating contracts – if I think people are pricing what they can get away with and do not actually know their maximum or what they really want to spend, then it’s unlikely to work out well.

People sometimes see it as showing your hand early, but it should be thought of as more as showing you are able to play in the same game. If an applicant applies purely because of a stated salary, and they are not able to do the job – the interview process should sort that out. If they don’t think it will, the recruitment team should spend a bit more time looking at their own salary expectations…

Ring up BT to check, but 95% of homes are to the cab. Only a few are done Fttp, and that’s generally new developments.

A leased line is not the same as Fttp, in the sense of the product costs. If you go on the BT website it will tell you, anything about 100m/b is to the home, below is to the cab.

I had FTTP as I was on a nice new build. But moved so back on FTTC, but had to use ADSL for a while to we were cabled up. 200m/b down to 2m/b was quite a shock!

Got mine back in just over a week, delivered this morning. So doesn’t take long, as that included shipping to and from.

As said it is now limited to 250psi, max spacers I think it less now, but I wasn’t using max anyway so it’s all good

“How the US compares: The number of gun murders per capita in the US in 2012 – the most recent year for comparable statistics – was nearly 30 times that in the UK, at 2.9 per 100,000 compared with just 0.1.”

Guns are not readily available or common in the uk. It seems in the States there are guns everywhere.

So being honest thats not really a fair stat, as if we had guns would it be the same? The argument is that nutters are nutters, and will use whatever is at hand if they can’t get a gun. That has logic to it.

So by that argument I would say that comparable countries would have comparable deaths by violent crime, so lets say educated developed nations, with a history of immigration, prosperity and other stuff. That would make US, UK and Oz pretty similar – so you would expect the death by violent crime rate to be the same, it’s just the US use guns, we use knives and sarcasm.

Death by violence:

US: 5.56 per 100,000
UK: 0.63 per 100,000
Oz: 1.15 per 100,000

So it appears that of the three countries comparable demographics, violent crime is a lot higher where you can easily own a gun.

That comparison breaks down when you look at Canada at 1.88 per 100k – so they are either nicer than comparable countries, or the only thing that really affects it is the yanks just love killing each other.

Whatever the reason it will never change, there are too many guns in circulation and a large proportion of the country see it as their fundamental right to own a gun.Taking that away is just a step too far as far as many are concerned, its a god given right – and no logic will overcome that

Pasta boiled in the kettle FTW – I’ve seen quite a few people attempt it over the years!

Teleportation – I don’t want to waste time commuting or travelling, self driving/flying etc still means I have to sit there. Cut that rubbish out and just beam me there, then we can save the roads and air for driving fun cars and planes etc, and save a lot to time!

At least the mercs are trying something other thand grey or black ‘premium plastics’……

Judging by the state of that it’s like saying at least someones trying something other than tinder to find a girlfriend when they go out digging up corpses and bringing them home

All this talk about monetary cost, what about the environmental cost? Do none of you care?

As already mentioned, the cost of reusing an existing car will be far more environmentally friendly than even cleanest new car.

But back to the original question, the finance of supercars is much harder nowadays as already said due to the reduction in appetite by lenders.

Generally I’d say (based on buying them in the past), if you cannot afford to buy the car twice then you can’t afford it.

If you get the right one at the right time they can be wonderful, I have broken even on Exiges, 911’s and 355’s, and made money on Vantages. But you can’t guarantee, and if it’s your main car you will be putting miles on it so value will go down. As a second car you don’t have to rely on an old exotic is great – but you will need to put aside 5k each year to keep it on the road (£1k service, £1.5k consumables, £1k insurance, £500 tax).

Hopefully you never need the slush fund so you will have spare cash and won’t need to put it all aside each year, but if you don’t put it aside you can bet you’ll need it.

You’ll never find your passion doing something you’re not passionate about. Go live a little, grab a van like said, or take an apprenticeship in an other feild, or something else entirely that exposes you to new things.

Whilst sensible to say you should save, if you have no commitments then you might be waiting a while for a better time.

Life’s short, find something you love. If it’s money you love, then fine, stay climb the ladder. If that is the only reason you are staying, and money is not what drives you then you already know what to do but want someone to tell you.

If there is nothing stopping you doing something different, stop looking for permission

If you think it’s solvable, tell your boss about your dissatisfaction. However if you need to effectively threaten them, then it’s not the basis of a strong relationship where they want to help you.

Do not tell him you are looking for another job, it changes the whole dynamic. And is nothing to do with him really, as long as you are not expecting interviews etc on company time.

If you think you are doing it to be fair, your notice period is built to be fair – you don’t need to add more to be nice.

If however you just want to get out ASAP, hand in your notice today and get living.

It’s a relationship at the end of the day. If you tell your partner you don’t think its working, you want it to and here’s how to change it – thats an honest relationship, and can be worked on. It might not work out but you tried. If you tell them, it’s not working, but I’ll stay till I find someone better, and if I don’t I’ll probably just settle with you for a bit and always keep my eye out – that probably won’t lead to long term happiness for either party

Cyclist was being a tool.

It’s not anti cyclist to say that people who can do most damage, or can effect the outcome of an accident the greatest should be the most responsible.

Depends if you need a counter service or not – I don’t and find HSBC great

As long as it’s 142 spacing then yes

I would expect an exclusion for specific motor claims that don’t relate to the home, have you read the policy exclusions?

In other professional services/advisory/financial services firms personal contribution and client contact is more important and frequent. Context is important.

Agree – The areas you mention is exactly my service and specialist industry, and as ex big 4 and now running a smaller firm of advisory teams, refusing 2 weeks or 3 weeks for a single team member with 9 months notice just points to bad contract and client management.

We are typically embedded on client site most of the time, so also have to fit into client team planning and HR policies, not by obligation but by being human. We are normally the backstop in keeping projects running as clients will all go off at the same time and not manage themselves properly.

This is far away from what was asked by the OP, but professional services firms seem keen to manage themselves in a way that delivers short term gains at the expense of long term client satisfaction and employee health, and employees often see failed marriages, poor states of mental health and high levels of addiction as a badge of honour – happy to have waved goodbye to those badges and let others take them.

Client engagement should never fall to one man – with the obvious exception of one man bands

Check the time and date on the computer – if it’s wrong the certificates no longer work so getting to most sites becomes a warning fest.

To the OP, request a formal reason and go from there. Half the team may be out at the same time, it might be school holidays etc and the team will all be out the office. Could be perfectly understandable, and hopefully is a simple misunderstanding that can be resolved by a grown up chat. But check whats in the contract, and linked HR policy for clarification. If 2 weeks is not prohibited or mentioned, then it would be at employers discretion which would be not unreasonably withheld. Without a specific reason (major project, whole team out already), then this would be deemed an unreasonable withholding of time off.

If this kind of chat is not possible within an HR team (which I believe the OP said she is in), I suspect the environment is toxic so would concentrate on finding another job as already said.

As already said employees cannot dictate annual leave, but employers have to reasonable. Reasonable is not withholding it because a manager has had one day off in the last 15 years, and they will give up all weekends to tidy the paperclips and complaining that the youth of today are unreasonable as they won’t to receive part of their package that was offered in the terms of employment.

I advise anyone who thinks that 3 weeks off is a good idea to consider the above carefully

I would expect anyone to be able to take 3 weeks off and the company doesn’t collapse, it points to bad management really if thats not the case, especially with that much notice.

If I can’t do 3 weeks out of the office, then I haven’t delegated to anyone else or managed my customers properly.

If my team can’t do three weeks out of the office, then I would say they screwed up delegation, handovers etc.

The only reason that I could be deemed critical is I am needed to physically sign contracts – but again I would have planned the big activities around my leave, or delegated rights to someone else.

Making yourself only be needed because you have run your team so badly it falls apart without you would cause me far greater concern.

The me, myself, I generation. Lets have it all.

More “the me, and my employer jointly agreeing what is right for all and reflecting whats in her contract generation, then talk about it as adults” but not quite as catchy.

I personally never take leave, but I run my own business so I have signed up for something different than an employee, but I accept that being flat out really does result in a lower overall performance, and I encourage my team to take all there time off, and not in odd days – at least one proper break a year of several weeks.

But if I want it, it’s my 100% right, I wouldn’t accept an employer keeping half my pay and me say nothing, and my holiday is part of my pay.

Anyway the job market is changing and perms will one day be a thing of the past. Contracting for multiple clients is far more rewarding anyway, to do a perm role there must be something very specific you want out of it IMO. This will leave lots of people feeling very lost, as there sense of worth will be taken away by not being tied to their employer day and night for years.

On the other hand, employers will pay for outputs, employees will focus on what they are doing – not just turning the handle and both sides will have greater flexibility. But you need something specific to sell

There will be a forgotten portion of the workforce that have nothing specific to add, and will get trapped in the 0 hours contract for slave employers – this needs to be thought about

Gone off at a tangent but what I am trying to say is all the people claiming or inferring they are martyrs for their companies, are admired by some and loved by a few as a role model – but are also seen as mugs that allow for companies not managing themselves properly.

Where are all these talented people queuing up to do the job? Not many people can anchor a live show, on their own without having someone asking questions of them. Experts are great, but very few can host a show, they respond to questions offer insights. A keen pundit does not make a good presenter – two very different things.

She does not need an in-depth knowledge of all sport in the olympics, she is the anchor – a time filler, links from one thing to the next etc.

If her job is to make people who generally get a bit wheezy when shuffling from the sofa to the TV as they’ve lost the remote in a stomach fold, show a level of interest and make them understand something. Then she does that for the audience.

Last time I remember a channel going cheap on an anchor for a major high profile international event, it went really really well:

Oh and I am not a fan of Ms Balding, but think the demographic the olympics are aimed at there are few people that could anchor it

No one has said that he must buy new, apart from those saying a bespoke build.

I’d look at new and used if I were the OP, and buy the one he likes. Going to a music shop and trying out new ones will help with this, and then make sure the one that is about to be bought is spot on be this new in a shop, or something found on eBay.

I would always look at used personally, but it’s much harder if you haven’t narrowed it down first. Some peoples perception of an as new guitar leaves a lot to be desired, but as said there are some real gems out there, you just need to accept the search takes a while.

The OP already stated this is being bought as a keeper, not as an investment. So resale is not important, getting the one that is spot on is – if this is new or used, and ends up being worth 2p when he gets it home is somewhat irrelevant.

What do you play?

Going custom is great, but if you are not sure what you want to play – you could spec in the wrong direction.

If you want a Gibson, make sure you play it. Their QC is all over the place IMO, but they are better this year than back in 2014.

Fender Cust Shop and PRS are always well finished, Gibson less so. Not saying you can’t get a good one, there are exceptional guitars, but you have to play and inspect.

Even if the QC is good, get out and play them. You might not like the neck or general feel, or it doesn’t lend itself to your music. Just play them.

A really nice guitar is a thing of beauty, something you can play and a piece of art to hang on the wall. I am not ashamed to say I buy guitars that are beautiful as well as play nice, guitars are wonderful cross purpose items blending art, craftsmanship and something to play – so don’t see it as a criticism, there is a lot of reverse snobbery in guitars.

I love PRS’s with beautiful tops – others hate them. For me I just love playing them so would happily spend the money on them, and am always on the look out for another. I have never sold a guitar so far, and have kept all of them from my first Pacificas through to PRS USA customes with 10 tops, each hold a place in my heart.

If you are questioning is it worth it. No of course it is not, but you already know that. You will not become a better player with a better guitar, but having something you can not stop picking up and playing will make you a better player. And for me my first expensive guitar was also rooted in lusting over so many expensive guitars as a teen and a twenty something when I couldn’t afford, or had to spend on something else.

Now having a pedal board the size of a small country, that is silly. But I still keep building them, and throwing money at pedals, because it’s fun, to me anyway

Used them for years, work and personal, only b+q seem to be the only real biggy you can’t use them.

Their rates are far lower these days, so most accept it. Keep a backup visa and all is good, never been stuck for payment. Amex vs visa spend is at least 1000:1 for me, that includes debit cards that I no longer use much as there is little point

Yes they are good, very good, if they give you what you want…

If you want a nice clean sound on the edge of breakup, that you can push into overdrive with your vol knob or with more pick attack – then a valve amp with 6l6’s. Or metal pick a metal amp etc.

If you’re not sure, then a modelling amp will get very close to at least 10 classic amps and sound very very good.

Personally modellers sound too perfect to me, but could I really tell in a blind test, probably not if comparable amps.

Guitar is so much about feel than facts, valves feel right and what you expect when you play. That’s why valve is king still, not facts – certainly for home use. And if you really know an amp, a modelling amp won’t match it, because it won’t, but will get close enough if you’ve never owned one.

If you like the sound, get a modelling amp, if it doesn’t valve it.

Personally I’m a valve fan, main amp is a Vic v30, which in single ended mode is quiet enough for home use. But I know my head makes valve sound better – I dreamed of a valve amp from the age of ten, so once I could afford one I’d never turn back… No need for a rad in the room I play, so really it pays for itself, in a complete man maths way

Yes your NCD is transferable, the amount to transfer will be stated on your renewal docs. If they have removed the proof, or dropped the years, complain and they reinstate it. If you have protected, it should be the last years amount +1.

You will need to confirm the claim to the new insurer also.

Think of NCD as a loyalty reward scheme rather than what it was meant to be.

Accept that all EAs are duplicitous, and out for their own interests, it’s far easier then you don’t expect better. I congratulate my cats when they don’t steal chicken if I leave it out, my Mrs would be offended if I did say the same to her, but I judge them by different standards.

Don’t expect estate agents to operate in your best interests, they operate in theirs first, and by extension their clients. Most EAs will have in their contracts they will check buyers viability, if they combine this obligation with a chance to sell to the gullable then happy days all round.

It’s pointless anyway, because at best they can go for their own DIP, which as already said is a waste of time as there are no credit checks, no valuation etc, if you have the time then go, otherwise refuse and make it clear that you will never buy their products and you are can pass any credit check or affordability check they throw at you.

EAs do not have to satisfy the same regulations as solicitors as they don’t handle your cash, and as a result have to fulfill money laundering so will normally give in if you push it. If they insist they think you are borderline, and you can’t convince them, then you have to decide if the house is worth a visit to the EA.

And if you think that your credit worthiness (as in having a big DIP), will mean that you will pay more, you probably shouldn’t be negotiationing without your Mum present. Best deals are won by rich tighwads, not people on the edge of their borrowing limit.

I’ve had it before. Normally with Ford dealers, and more of a southern thing. Never paid it though, and if they won’t budge I use my insurance which they don’t like but accept. Normally ring a salesman and ask for a test drive of something else I use for the day, obviously requires an existing relationship with themselves it’s never an issue

Higher action – generally more sustain, but poorer intonation if you too far

Lower action – better playability and intonation, but poorer sustain.

But as others have said, play what feels right to you. There is no right or wrong, just what feels right. Personally I prefer verging on low action, but not metal low, as I use a compressor for clean or am mainly on a bit of distortion so won’t chase sustain for something I don’t like playing.

As far as the second question on increasing sustain with a tubescreamer. Well you have to try things, and see what works with your amp and guitar is the most obvious answer.

Gary Moore got the sustain through driving at the front end of a tube amp hard with the tube screamer, but also the verb and delay was pretty essential to his sound.

If you want sustain on a clean tone, you need a compressor, if you want sustain with a dirty sound you need to be pushing either the tubes or pedal into overdrive, which itself is compression (noise floor raised, quite sounds brought up, high volumes notes brought down to a ceiling). Sustain is achieved through compression – overdrives and compressors both give you compression, it’s just the sound they deliver to achieve this.

To achieve this at a low volume you need either a master volume as already said; raise the gina stage in the preamp and control master volume to get your low volume. If you don’t have a master volume you either need to drive the front end with a boosted signal (something like EP booster), or move the compression down the line with a compressor (CS-3 etc) for clean or an overdrive (TS-808) to compress with clipping and pass that to the amp. You can use a compressor to raise the level and drive the front end, but it’s an unusual way to drive the front end.

Personally for home use I stack pedals and split into a different amps to get the mix I like, a change the order depending on the sound I want, gain stacking can be a beautiful thing if you have the patience, but you’ll end up harvesting pedals to try combos searching for the elusive tone, which if we are being honest most audiences won’t notice once the basic sound is right, but it matters to you when you’re playing 🙂

Specifically on the Tubescreamer, it again depends on the amp. The TS and it’s clones have a distinct mid hump (thats it’s sound signature), works great on a vintage Fender style amps, as they don’t have a mid hump. Put it on a marshall which has a mid hump, you get a very middly sound.

Personally I don’t like the mid hump of a TS most of the time, but I prefer less of a middly sound and less in your face. TS into something like a Blues Junior sounds great and pushes the mids where you don’t have it. So it all depends on your amp.

After all that I would say:

if you have a master vol amp – push the gain stage and control volume with the master

if you don’t and it has a mid hump (think marshall), for clean use a compressor (dyna comp or CS-3 etc), for driven use a klone clone for a transparent drive

If you don have master volume and you don’t have a middly amp (vintage Fender etc), then compressor for clean as above. Or for dirty a TS or clone.

Either way without master volume it’s an amp designed to be driven hard to get the tone, which requires volume. For home practice you do really need a master volume amp or a switchable master stage to run it at a lower volume.

The quest for tone is never ending…

Save then spend. Every month I keep a fun fund topped up, then normally around this time each year I use it for something, bikes, guitars etc.

Actually pay for everything on CC but cleared all the time, only for points that pays for flights through the year never pay interest.

I don’t finance anything I don’t need, the purchase joy dissipates quicker than a finance agreement.

If I can’t afford it, I don’t buy it. If I can’t afford it, and don’t need it, I certainly won’t buy it

They make a noise, but aren’t great IMO. They sound like pap, and generally don’t play well with other things.

You will also need to terminate the connections yourself as it is not ISO, so you will not to modify a harness to do this. Not a problem, but something you will need to do.

If you want a cheap way to make some noise it’ll be fine. If you want a higher quality sound that is OK, and won’t break up, less so, if you want the menus to be in English when the advert struggles to be in English, probably less so.

Better to find a second hand known brand, but thats just me

Is this likely to be largely “plug and play” for a non IT bod like me? Or am I biting off more than than I can chew?

Point taken on the cabling – cat 5e it is!

Do any NAs drives come with HD or do I have to buy the HDs in addition to the unit?

For basic use yes, as with all things if you want to do fancy shnizz it gets more complicated. There are videos for all basic use cases all over the place as well as the guides.

Drives being included depends on what you buy. Generally cheaper to buy the drives and chassis individually, and you get better drives. Look on amazon and they will often show different configs

See here:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Synology-DS216-Desktop-Attached-Enclosure/dp/B01AIOTU6C?ie=UTF8&keywords=synology%20nas&qid=1460549889&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

And you can click through the options

Thanks. Strangely ive been given some quite conflicting advice on the ohms issue. My amp runs at 8 ohms. The guy at PMT in Manchester to told me i can use this through 8 (preferable) and 16 ohm cabinet but never 4 ohm. Then the guy at Dawsons told me i can use 8 (preferable) and 4 ohm cabinet but never 16 ohm.

Which one is correct?

The guy at PMT is right – Solid state you can increase the load and it survives. If you put a 4 ohm or higher cab, you will overheat and fry the amp.

The guy in Dawsons is wrong, he is thinking of a Valve amp where the output transformer will overload with too much resistance (hence not being able to run without a cab). Generally it’s best to assume in the even of conflicting info Dawsons will be wrong.

Read this article: http://www.prestonelectronics.com/audio/Impedance.htm

Yes you have the idea correct, just route all to one place and plug all in to that.

I would put the NAS in the switch, as trying to avoid the homehub will be better as it struggles shifting large amounts of data around, and a decent switch is better IMO. My Homehub is sitting in the garage in it’s box as it was woeful.

I would also consider a managed switch that will allow port aggregation, if you are running a NAS that supports it and you are running multiple HD streams. It will allow a far fast link.

NAS’s work really well with Mac/Linux/Windows etc. I have a Sinology 412+ and an 1815+ with lots of data being shared. 3 Macs, 3 PC’s, 4 amps, and multiple mobile clients. All media is stored central (films, music etc) and you keep it there. iTunes will happily use data from a share. You just keep the actual library file local, but thats tiny.

I’ve used multiple NAS’s and they all work well with Mac, there were some older NAS’s that had a very old and insecure authentication system, but that all has been phased out and wouldn’t be a problem if you are buying new.

Actually see here:

http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/general-faq/cabinet-connection-and-ohm-faq-r436

But really Line6 model quite well, so use that and line out to the desk rather than miking for the main mix.

Which head is it?

Line 6 advice always having a load, but only the DT and Spider Valve will result in power transformer failure.

As for Ohm load, if they are 8 ohm load ready, then you can run 8 ohm cabs, 16 ohm cabs. Or run multiple 4 ohms to create an 8 ohm load. Of multiple 8 ohms to create a 16 ohm load.

DO NOT RUN 4Ohm load, that will fry the power stage

Has anyone actually had success going down the “outside of insurance” route?

Yes. Someone scraped down the side of my wife’s car in a car park, just swinging in and went a bit far. Really annoyed and ranted, but it does happen.

Car was dirty and didn’t look bad in the dark. But got it under light and cleaned it and there was scuffs all the way along the side, bumper and dent I the panel. If it was a bit older smart repair combined with pdr would have done. But it was 3 months old and mint. Thankfully he left a note with a number.

He didn’t respond to text for a day so we were getting worried, but returned the call in the end. Said he didn’t want her to be put out but could we go outside of insurance? I was sceptical, but we got quotes for a perfect repair, which came to nearly a grand, which he accepted. She books it in, lets him know and he reponds that afternoon saying he has paid in advance with the body shop!

Car fixed and on collection finds a bunch of flowers in the passenger seat that he had asked the garage to get to say sorry!

So, much to my surprise there are still genuine people that will rectify their mistakes without question. Nothing was challenged.

But the OP has an idiot to deal with, if you’d said it would be a tenner he’d still complain, you can’t win, he now has convinced himself he’s the victim , hopefully karma pays him back

It should be the same account, if they are all logged in together you can share purchases between devices

Normally resolves itself within 24hours, saying that if the change was yesterday I would expect this morning to be fine. Get onto EE who will fix it. My move to EE last year took about 6 hours, but really wasn’t bad

Not really sure I understand the question, but I know plenty of people that have had affairs unfortunately, it seems to come with the business, we are all on the road and away from home normally 5 days a week, sometimes more.

I am not saying the above is an excuse for them. But it shows up the cracks in a marriage/relationship pretty quickly, and provides the opportunity and circumstance for it.

They are split into two groups it seems, first is the serial cheater – who crash from one affair to the next, the seem to have the ability to justify it in the head. They are getting what they need from another source it seems.

The second is the ones who it’s circumstance, marriage isn’t great, she doesn’t understand me etc. Oh look here’s an opportunity.

The first seems to go on forever, moving from victim to victim. The second, the marriage normally falls apart as the guilt gets too much, or they think that they are happier with the new person, or they have less practice than person one.

The common thing between the two is that all circumstances is that it’s bit of a shell of a marriage they are trying to make up for. I’ve never bought the theory that an affair fixes a marriage, for instance my previous boss was going from affair to affair, he justified it with that he had no intimacy with his wife, he got that from affairs allowing him to stay with his wife for the kids. He thought he was/is happy and has a marriage, his affairs “saved his marriage”. But he doesn’t actually have a marriage, he has a housemaid/nanny at home who is his buddy at weekends, IMO.

I find that lots of people talk about it (having cheated), and the normally known exactly what they’ve done and have a clear reason in their heads for it. Generally I feel sorry for them that their marriage sucks, sorry for their partners who likely suspect and are trying to paper over the cracks, and also make a conscious or sub conscious view that I trust them slightly less, as if they will lie and betray to the most important person, I probably can’t trust them not to at least bend the truth in my dealings with them.

If someone is having an affair and they are in a proper committed relationship, then there is something wrong and they need to accept it’s not a complete relationship. Augmenting an affair on top does not fix a marriage, but does allow some people to live with the fundamental flaws in their marriage.

And yes I get that many people like the thrill of the cheat, and this can only come from cheating , so you can never get that from a normal relationship. And you can’t get the true thrill of cheating whilst having consent for cheating – so I’m not sure those people that need that will be happy in a normal marriage, so don’t pretend you can do it, and don’t start breeding and get others caught in the mix.

Synology works really well for backup and streaming in particular. I use it to host all video and audio, and it’s streamed to 3 macs, 2 TVs running plex, 3 amps using dlna clients. Works really well, and has done for 4/5 years.

You can have a time machine client on the NAS.

As said you need an offsite backup solution also if you want to keep data that’s important to you, but this is not an argument to not get the massive benefits of a NAS.

Mynamesnotbob how much does your shock Bob when climbing?i have set sag correct but on bigger climbs mine seems to sit about half way into the travel,
have you adjusted any of the compresion/rebound to combat this,I’m still trying to get mine dialled think i basically went with the stock setting from the book but still doesn’t feel quite right

Yep, it’s far to say the shock moves around in it’s travel compared to the DBinline. I remember setting it up initially for sag and it was near impossible to get it spot on, as breathing in or out would make it it move around it seemed.

However I didn’t notice that as too much in the way of bob.I’ve got it on an HD3, which is Progressive to sag, then slightly regressive blending off towards the end of travel. So setting up for sag it seemed to move about a lot, but when out riding once past the sag point no it didn’t move about too much. However I do have the compression and rebound turned up quite high anyway, as that how I like it, general riding is softer spring and harder damping so my natural setup go to may have overcome any bobbing. I then have the high speed circuit running less compression and rebound for the big drops as I’m a wuss. I am also running 4 tokens, so I can get more movement without blowing through travel. Fork is set much the same.

I personally ignore how much it actually moves, if it’s within the travel. If it’s bottoming out you need more tokens or air, if you are wasting energy in the shock making the climb harder then again you will need more compression and a touch more air maybe.

But I found that I would fly up a climb (well for me), with great grip and not wasting energy in the shock. If it felt this way, and also takes the drops then it’s fine; Going on feel after initial setup works far better for me, and I don’t even think about it now, it just seems to let the bike do it’s stuff. Measuring travel seemed a waste of time when I was setting it up as it was misleading. Well thats for me anyway

Raspberry pi I’d say then, it depends how much you want to spend