Ok finally got round to trying to sort this. I have ordered a bh90 hose but I am concerned it may come with a banjo end. Can I cut this off and fit an insert as normal?

If the price is right you will get what you pay for. I would never get servicing done by them though

Not felling trees but chopping windfall generally. I think petrol would be best for flexibility of use. It’s a vague hope that I can save some money not buying logs.

Weird pricing. Generally expensive for dud specs. Carbon C models way more expensive now as well.

Do you always buy the cheapest. I could save £100 with esure but the customer feedback is appalling. Having made a couple of claims in the past you will easily burn through 100 of your time being put on hold. Paying 350 at the mo

Sell house move somewhere cheaper, pay off debt. All problems solved?

No heckler, superlight or chameleon. New owners no history

Good to see lower price points appearing. It will be aluminium bronsons on the back of the t5s in the post brexit exchange rate world.

About 250g weight between c and cc. Everything else the same. Never heard of anyone checking this so the cc could just be reassuringly expensive.

Doing a comparison with my other bikes (a 15” orange blood) would suggest I go for the small (it fits perfectly with a 50mm stem) the main difference is the seat angle which will make it feel longer. Just concerned a medium will be a gate. There sizing is a bit odd or did they go long and slack before it was fashionable?

Best value orange for years. Tempting

Apparently there will be a new nomad tomorrow. Aimed more at the rowdy side 170mm boost etc. heard the syndicate are in morzine to release it on the 1st. Could be BS though!

It was easy to get wrong, and cost a lot to get right. My 2006 nomad was circa 31lbs and was really good for everything. In fact it still is (bar the granny ring bob). Cost a lot though but it has lasted incredibly.

Square badge is the ‘modern’ geometry. Although that will change again with the new nomad tomorrow..

First ones had the stuck on head badge (of the sc man) and had swoopy graphics. Next year was painted with graphics at angles, following that it was the sc typeface change and painted head tube. Then it’s the last 3 years or so with the little square head tube badge.

Hope that makes sense

Ae on the rainy day. It’s the shortest you’ve got planned and most easily missable (you can always push up the last section of the omega man and session that for a while as it’s the best bit)

I had an old dhx air which was awful. Had heard a coil shock was best for the old nomad as the leverage did weird things in the mid stroke. I guess a modern shock may be able to tune that stuff out?

Give it time they are only just getting disc brakes. Steerer size, wheel size, rim width, boost hubs must surely be on the way

Fear

Replace as they actually wear out. Order lowest price but quality parts (deore) from Germany and learn to fit yourself. Really won’t cost much especially if 9 or ten speed.

First two digits of the frame number used to be the year?

I see they serve glasses of poo near the sun loungers.

Wow there isn’t much around. I am looking to replace some fox 36s which you can no longer get parts for. My option seems to be lyriks which have 10mm more travel and 15mm axle to crown, or go for cheap and puny with sektors. I can’t believe that these are my only options for new forks (the suntours are nearly a pound heavier). Looking through the sheer number of fork size and standards options you can see the industry is a chuffin mess.

Wait. No need to rush. It’s apparently hormonal and some are quicker than others. We know folks who tried to force it by taking a week off work to train them and they totally wasted their time

Sounds cheap to be honest. Especially if the are doing the full application and not just the engineering part (better check that) always amazes me how people won’t pay professional fees and yet will probably pay the builder a few grand to put the beam in and yet it will cost the builder a fraction of that

It’s a mash up of Waterfall meets Dogtanian and the Three Muskahounds

So tempted to get my 2002 SL up and running again. What’s the chances of servicing a 14 year old shock?

welcome back gifmeister!

Amateurs

http://m.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/health-environment/article/1937320/hook-line-and-stinker-japanese-angler-catches

He made sure he finished it too

Boiler is goosed (been fixed many times before) we have no other source of hot water apart from a kettle. It’s through a letting agent who suggested we get legal advice (which means they know we have no chance of sorting it) Time to walk away I think as they will never get another tenant till it’s sorted. We have another 5 months on the lease but now have a reasonable grounds to leave. Thanks all

Nice blizzard at glentress today. Didn’t settle but very heavy.

Have you read the review on the dirt website? It’s quite predictable…

Been tempted to do exactly the same thing for a while. Let me know what you order and how it works out.

You need to use a breather membrane rather than felt or building paper. There’s a tyvek one for rain screens that is specifically for this type of application.

Easy. Black breather membrane on osb. This does the weather proofing. Then vertical treated battens painted black. Then horizontal timbers (ideally screwed) or horizontal counter battens for vertical cladding. Screws or nail sunk so the head is flush (no pockets for rot) or be clever and screw in from the back and panelise.

Western red ceder or larch. Both will weather substantially to silver grey. May go black/mouldy on north elevations. Will weather weirdly if overhangs are too deep above.

Mmm, I may just pay up. That glasgow story is pretty bad. But if they hadn’t pursued him the system would be broken.

You could sneak 25mm high density insulation in there but if you bridge the cavity it can cause real issues.

Actually edit all that, 2 leaves of 100mm block, rendered inside and outside to match the existing will be the best approach and more stable. Don’t bother with insulation if you don’t have any in the wall elsewhere as it will make next to know difference.

Solid wall with internal insulation is a really bad idea. It’s not thick enough to prevent damp coming through and or you may get condensation in the wall depth.

1m wide by two high is really small. If it’s in block you wil need 2 leaves with wall ties between the leaves and back to the existing wall. You will need to put Dpm between the leaves at the door junction or the damp will jump the gap. If you only have a 50mm cavity there’s no room for insulation.

I would do a 100mm timber inner leaf fixed back to the brickwork. Face in 9mm min osb/ply. Face with a breather membrane (tyvek) then build a wall in 100mm block. Remove circa 300mm external render, metal lath the joint then put render over. It may still crack but less likely, or just put a mastic joint there.

Internally insulate between the timbers, then finish with a foil backed plasterboard.

Or just get a blank door panel beside the French door to make up the width….

The new one is rubbish. I want to sit in the sun with a view rather than facing a hillside. Strangely for that reason alone I have never been back