Yes, thanks njee20. They’re 6902 like in the 240. I didn’t have the wheels right in front of me to check and needed to order spares in a hurry. The bearing size is actually stated right there in the official manual, but I blame my caffeine deficit this morning for missing it :oops:

Nevermind, sorted now.

Just used senditnow to post two bikes a few weeks ago. Cheap and has been reliable enough.

I have the Tifosi Dolomite Fototec and Podium. Love both. Fairly priced and very decent quality.

I’ve successfully converted wheels to tubeless using gorilla tape (the one inch wide roll) and sealant.

Yes. Have had a pair for about 8 months. I like them but if you’re used to stiff XC shoes these will lack sole stiffness in comparison. I like the roomy toe box and the quick lace. Very comfy in hike-a-bike situations.

The white color doesn’t do very well in muddy conditions as to be expected, but they clean up really easily with a sponge and washing up liquid.

I don’t have DX pedals but don’t see why they wouldn’t work with them. I use them with Shimano M520s and M785s.

The cable outer is probably too thick for that drain hole, and it will be out at an awkward angle so won’t look pretty.

If you’re brave, you can (carefully) drill your frame to run it. Search MTBR forums for a thread about that. Liteville has a PDF document somewhere online with instructions on how owners of some of their older frames can drill out their seat tubes to fit stealth droppers. Not saying this applies to all frames, but just throwing out some ideas :)

If you have bottle mount rivnuts in appropriate locations and don’t need bottle cages you can drill one out one and run the cable through the BB shell and up the seat tube.

Or just return it and get the regular version, but put a cable tie on the cable anchor cover so that you won’t lose it.

One of my riding buddies has the same bike and he runs a 31.6 KS post on it. So, yes I am pretty sure.

31.6

Pricepoint.com

am i right in thinking running 2.3-2.4 is fine for the majority of riding and you only go 2.1 when its mega gloop/snow?

Maybe the narrower tires with a bit more pressure in them sink easier in the snow/mud and find traction in firmer ground below?

Also, I think Smorgasboards and Chunky Monkeys are great tires in all but the muddiest conditions.

I found the Panaracer Trailrakers very nice in the mud. They shed brilliantly. 2.1 is a little skinny for my preference to run on the front though, but they’re a decent size for 2.1s.

It says it’s £2.99 on the page pleaderwilliams linked, not £6.

Have two Thule 591s on a Suzuki Jimny and I never experienced that whistle.

Not the direct answer to your question, but I just bought a Regatta Techne jacket for £35 on ebay (£39 posted). I really like it. 20,000 mm waterproof, taped seams, vented pits, concealed detachable hood, mesh lining, etc. For the money I can’t fault it.

I have the X-Fusion Slide, which has the same RL2 damper but 32mm uppers. Really like it. Smooth and stiff. No bells and whistles but everything works as it should. Lock-out is a proper lockout. I can’t comment on long term reliability yet, or compare to the Reba, since I have not ridden one.

Race Face Half Nelson. No outer lockring which is more comfortable if your preferred hand position is on the outer end of the bars.

High quality riding glasses do not have to be Oakley-expensive. I have two pairs of Tifosi glasses. A photochromatic pair that I’ve had since 2008 which still look new, and another I bought last year with interchangeable lenses. I think I paid less than £50 for each pair.

It is fairly easy to find in good light. I used a flashlight after cleaning out all the holes from grease residue. It does look different from all the other holes. The center will be darker.

I didn’t have the whole post apart as in the guide. Just removed the outer post.

I tried it when I had the i950. It did work but you really need to maintain a good seal on the inflation needle to get it to pressurise. Tricky but doable. Teflon tape around the needle tip, and ask someone to assist by jamming the needle in the pinhole while you pump.

Fulcrums are reasonably high engagement hubs (they are made by Campagnolo anyway). If you can’t tell the difference between them and current Hope hubs, you probably won’t tell the difference between current and new Hope hubs. I doubt the majority of riders can anyway.

Then again: There no major differences between many Alu frames and their carbon counterparts, 9 and 10 speed groups, etc. Progress usually comes in small increments.

I have the Topeak Presta Chuck on mine. Comes with a Schrader adapter which is a bit of a faff every time you want to inflate a schrader valve tube/tyre, but seems well made and about £8 on Amazon.

Small pebble wedged in old style XT mech body to keep it on mid cassette after cable snapped during a ride with no spare in the pack.

I have a Zee on one bike and XT on another and find the Zee fine really. It isn’t as smooth as the XT but it works very well and has been reliable enough.

Last year I was there and a friend took me along for a spin near Grunewald. Decent trails but not many hills. Why not try asking the folks at MTB-news.de forums? German-language only, but they’re a friendly bunch and I am sure will be able to offer good information.

Dakine Drafter or one of the smaller Osprey packs. They have external helmet straps.

Edit: actually IIRC the Osprey ones have a strap for vented XC helmets. Evoc packs have ones that work with full face helmets, too.

If you you don’t care too much for having ‘bling’ parts, you can do it for much less if you buy good condition used parts from the classifieds. That’s what I did on one of my bikes and it’s been running great. I think I spent about £60 including a BB mounted top guide and nice used XT parts.

Got mine today :D

Only one way to know if it’ll work :wink:

midlifecrashes is correct. My 591 came with both types of attachements.

I like the looks of the Xar, and it’s on the shortlist to replace my four year old E2, but also looking at the Bell Super.

Another vote for the Liteville 301.

I used my normal post for a week when I sold my old dropper and was awaiting delivery of my new dropper. Such an eye opener on how much you get used to the convenience afforded by these toys!

I have the Lev, and before that KS i950. KS posts seem very well made.

This is the best little tool I ever bought. I love it. I carry a separate mini cheain breaker.

Thanks for taking the time to share this review. I was looking at either this or the Rapid Racer bearing press which is more expensive. Looks like this one would be adequate.

I never go out for a ride without eye protection. I have two pairs of Tifosi Snglasses: Dolomite with photochromatic lenses and Logic with interchangeable lenses and they seem to cover all conditions pretty well. Got a pair of cheap goggles for the uplift days, too.

A few months ago my front wheel kicked up a pebble that hit my left lens fairly hard. I have no doubt it would have seriously hurt my eye.

I had a pair of Specialized Defrosters which were very good for all but the coldest of winter rides. Got them a size larger to wear thick wool socks. Very comfortable winter shoes. I had the older ones, though, so not sure how the new ones with the “boa” lacing are like.

I think the 41.0 and 51.8 numbers are the outside diameters of the bearings. You can easily measure those and determine which sizes you need?

Anything “enduro specific”.

I bought a pair of XTR pedals from them two years ago. The drive-side pedal failed last May. Bike24 asked for the defective pair back and sent me a new pair after about 2 weeks of receiving them.