Nice boys are not nice, they all turn out to be wrong-uns!

All people are ****, just some are liars also 😉

I’ve broken up with my avid brakes today, after 2 years I’d had enough of the constant screaming, they’d just give up on me when I needed them most and bleeding them was a real pain, no matter how I tried they wouldn’t become hard. I don’t mind a few quirks but I would be spending days doing calliper rebuilds and bleeding them. I wouldn’t see my friends any more or go riding, they were taking over my life – I began to slump into depression… Today I decided that I couldn’t take any more and ordered a pair of shimano 675s

[gotye]Now they are some brakes that I used to own[/gotye]

Class 20s

Out of the modern stuff, quite like tpe’s 185s – the sound of the turbo charger.

Cheers, I’ll give that a whirl.

I’ve got some Shimano M596’s in my basket on CRC. I’d feel guilty selling my Avids – I’d would be like placing a curse on someone.

Callipers have had new seals and pistons in the beginning of Feb, I pumped the pistons out and cleaned using a cotton swab soaked in Dot 5.1 fluid, after I would lubricate them with the fluid and push them back in, I did this twice prior to bleeding.

Calliper is aligned with no rub at all.

All things aside, I’ve wound the reach all the way out, now when I press the lever it is exactly parallel with the bar, is this right? How do your brakes compare?

+1 for pushing some more fluid in, especially the lever but be ready with a rag and the screw to stop and catch any overflow.

I’ve just done that, when I removed the syringe fluid came out of the bleed port. No improvement 😥

Has anybody got any Avid Bleeding secrets they’d like to share?

Also do Shimano M596s have more clearance between the pabs and the rotors, my elixirs don’t rub, but mud/grit/snow gets in and it’s annoying.

I press each syringe prior to removal. I pressed the lever quite firmly and held it, no leaks.

LBS if the price is decent, if I can save over a tenner then it’s the net. I use Evans cycles for wheel builds and headset cups.

Cheers 🙂

Is it possible to only strip part of a frame, as in mask off half of a top tube and strip the other half?

Born: Russia

Brought up: ‘uddersfield

Live: ‘uddersfield

Very much a Northerner and proud of my Yorkshire accent and upbringing. Not a Yorkshireman though, I’d have to have been born here.

I got some small O rings from a small DIY shop in Huddersfield, I removed the seal from my bleed kit and brought it in to match the size.

I needed the seals for the bleed screws as they had worn out (which is no surprise given the amount of times I have bled my avids) I bought 10 at the cost of £1. If you only need one it’ll probably be free.

@letmetalktomark YGM 🙂

I have used an On One sprung tensioner (its virtually the same as all the other sprung tensioners at he £15-20 price point) I found that over really rough ground the tensioner would spring the other way and hit the stays. This would not be have been a problem if it were pushing up.

Currently I use a Gusset Bachelor, which works well and stays put in the rough, however with it being fixed it has to be adjusted a fair amount to keep taking up the slack. It can work pushing up but only if the chain is short. Mine is currently pushing down and this is resulting in occasional slipping at the back.

I want one of these: clicky![/url]

I use fox goggles here too, no problems. Don’t really see how there would be an issue with any goggle tbh.

I had issues with my giro hex but that was down to the helmet.

i left the 3 rings on the crank

That’s the problem, get a chain ring that has nice tall teeth and no shifting ramps.

Why not go fixed? Makes much more sense on the road.

I assume my legs will be torn off going downhill

My elixirs don’t rub, I find setting them up fine. However due to the needlessly complicated bleeding system, they need bleeding far too much IMO.

I am not going out, far too unpleasant.

If it wasn’t for the wind it would be fine. I don’t have the kit to go riding in temperatures like these anyway, -13c according accuweather’s real feel on my phone. Might even be a bit dangerous…

@mintimperial – Sure I’m game, let me know when you can. Email’s in profile.

What I’ll do is get a 34t front ring, that way it’ll lower the gear making it a bit easier, and if I still don’t like it then a 34t will be better than a 36t for 1×9 as well.

Singlespeed_Shep – could you give me some examples where you’ve ridden before?

Single speeders I need some examples of what’s possible, because currently I’m looking up at hills and thinking eurgh not again. But then I dislike sitting and spinning even more…

The OP is already running a slightly higher ratio than that in quite a hilly area.

higher than a 2:1?

a 2:1 ratio would be 32:16 = 36:18 = 40:20

So running a 19t sprocket is easier (as in a lower gear and better for hills) than a 2:1… correct me if I am wrong

I already a want a road bike of some sort…

A lack of funds was the original reason for singlespeeding but now I’ve got a lack of fun instead 😛

– I’ve moved and my riding has changed, for playing around in the woods on an evening the single speed was great, short climbs and steep descents.

However now those lllooonnnggg climbs that aren’t steep are just killing me, I run out of energy regardless of how much flapjack I eat.

I blame my lack of beard 🙁

The thing I’m thinking about going to a lower gear is that I won’t be able to go fast on the flats/downs, the bike feels slow as it is? 😕

They are my LBS even though I now live in Huddersfield… plenty of stock and they seem to always have what I need, at a good price too.

The staff are sorted, that’s the main reason why I still go there as they know what they are talking about and have their own opinions on things not just what the marketing man told them. They’ve answered my many questions (you’ll have to try hard to more of a pain than me)

Not used the on-line side of things strangely, I’m too impatient to wait for delivery men.

You come on here, ask for opinions and then get snotty when people tell you it’s a stupid idea and you’re a bit silly for thinking of even trying it.

I’m agreeing that it’s a bad idea… but not because somebody just said it is, but because someone has provided an example why – it didn’t have to be first hand, I just wanted something more than: “it says use DOT fluid on them so use that”.

TBH I got the answer with trail rats post, which was that the seals will swell and evidence of this is from the real world. Not mere assumptions. 🙂

what shimano hub do you have?

Well, I won’t have to deal with corrosive DOT fluid for a start. Then I reckon that maybe mineral oil won’t have to be de gassed and also that it may have better lubricating properties, thus reducing sticky pistons.

Really though it’s just an idea I am toying with.

seals are specified for certain materials. I’m a bit baffled by your thinking that they won’t degrade if not been used with dot fluid. If they say don’t use mineral oil then the seals will probably swell if you use mineral oil. New or otherwise.

I am aware of the consequence of using DOT fluid on seals designed for mineral oil, however since mineral oil is less aggressive than DOT fluid I am asking if it shall work the other way round.

Just use some proper dot 4 (if that what they take) as it’s the cheapest fluid to use anyway.

PS why are you flushing with water? Just flush with fresh brake fluid.

To flush out the dot fluid before putting in mineral oil, I haven’t done anything yet, nor do I plan to, likesay I am just toying with the idea.

dismember

gasket

thermostat (female version – central heating) example:

man – I’ve put the thermostat on 18C

woman – I’ve put the central heating on 30C

five mil

just a touch

One thou

Bang on!

Did you not see BMW badge…

*runs*

I personally found that my drive train felt/sounded gritty and horrid with that factory lube.

I had the same tensioner and the same problem, having the chain as short as possible and therefore increasing chain wrap sorted it for me. I wasn’t able to reverse the spring, you may have more creativity/engineering skill than me however. I run a Gusset bachelor and it’s does a fine job.

get that chain as short as possible

Haha, he’s like a royal Jeremy Clarkson 😆

I personally would de-grease, that grease is far to sticky and collects crap really quickly, then the chain rings and sprockets get gunk on them too. Drop it in some white spirit.

Bleed block in, half full syringe at the calliper and empty at the lever, brake lever not against the bar. You should be able to push fluid through the system to fill the lever syringe. If you can’t do this then something is wrong.

I have a habbit of wearing pristine white clothes when cleaning locomotive fire boxes, going to dig days and mosh pits, hence any white clothing I own is now stained. – Actually I started mountain biking in a white T shirt, after a very short while it looked horrid and from that T-shirt came my forum name.

Would I wear white lycra – yeah for a laugh, being 6’1″ and skinny I’ll look like a streak of…..

How many of you none washers also don’t clean their bikes after a ride, just brush the dried mud off before the next ride then?

Got a point there; I do that or hose it down if it’s wet already. However important moving parts get regular servicing.

If cleaning it isn’t vital then why bother, it’s a mountain bike not a ferrari 458.