Second bigger discs as the cheap option!

I thought the Mam Tor end of Rushup edge was the grassy vaguely rutted bit that goes down to the road that goes over to Edale?

Don't tell me they've smoothed the one that used to be like a river bed at the other end??

Some motor bike stalls up at the upper barn but its always rammed busy on the rare occasion the sun makes an appearance

I would try some loctite on the splines of the axle and the threads of the bolt. Easy on the threadlock on the bolt cos its easy to get the bolt stuck and round it when the time comes to get them off, but you can always tap the crank arm off with a hammer.

I use the red studlock or bearing fit stuff thats a bit stronger than the normal stuff.

If they're similar to the SLX I've just fitted, with the servo wave action then power should come on gradually but as you squeeze more the power comes on very impressively.

I agree Hayes are probably more immediate than most other disc brakes but I'm very impressed with my SLX. I think mine need topping up with fluid as the lever comes close to the bar, but its still easy enough to lock the wheels, definitely a quick stop and not an eventual stop like you suggest on your Deores.

I think I got it over a week ago in Tesco but that was in Bolton

The aerodynamic benefits are minimal. Think its something to do with hairs creating a turbulent air flow earlier which provides less drag in the case of the human leg form. Its why golf balls have dimples, so they go further.

So unless you're going to have sports massages etc then whats the point?

So is it Crete? I went to Crete years ago on a 'civilian' holiday ;-) and I imagined it would be awesome for a bit of biking

I went for a medium cage cos it was cheapest! Probably got to be a bit more careful at the extremes of gear selection but as Baznav says, better clearance in ruts.

I've had two sets of Avids over 3 or 4 years….so plenty of pad changes before now…but I do think the 5s are harder to push the pistons back than the 7s? Having also changed pads on a friend's Avid Juicy 5s, which required so much force to lever the pads apart that the disc brake mount was flexing, I think they can be a bit temperamental. Hayes were similar, often needing the bleed port undoing to let fluid out.

Removing the clip spring on the back of the caliper is an interesting tip though.

Still debating whether to sell them or keep and put them on the hardtail…

In the end I popped down to Merlin. Got a free bottle of lube too!

My mate did assure me SLX and other Shimano's he's had have been easy. He laughs at me every time I've had a fight on my hands with other sets of Avis, Hayes etc.

We'll see….

I didn't check if that was the problem, though I've had that problem with car brake pads before now – I do think its often the tolerances on the pads rather than caliper design.

Anyhow, I went for SLX, which seem excellent despite needing a bleed after cutting the hose down. The Avids are likely going on the classifieds shortly…

Is the star fangled nut far enough into your steerer and you've got enough spacers?

If you haven't got enough spacers or the top cap is just tightening against the sfn then the headset would still be loose.

Some headsets do fall apart more readily than others when you take them apart – doesn't necesarily mean there's anything wrong with it.

Wondering if thats the problem with the new pads for my juicy's. the pistons are as far back as they will go, the adjuster out (or in – whichever way you look at it) but still no joy.

I'm thinking SLX then, I don't want to have the same problem with a set of Elixirs. Don't SLXs have better pad clearance so something like this should be less of a problem?

I'm Manchester/Preston / Bolton but have all day so Cyclesurgery might be an option…

Yep, agreed, pistons are easy enough to change. Cheap too, but I found it hard to source just the pistons.

Surely the trick is to lever the pistons back in before taking the old pads out? The old pads shouldn't cause the pistons to chip

Why not just some cable ties and inner tube to pad it out?

You might get more adjustability by using pipe fittings but I doubt you'll get anything like the ball swivel type arrangement of a joystick say.

What did you specify adt? The (2007) Fuel Ex and Spark both have pivots on the seat stay so there may be some vague similarities?

I thought propedal is to stop the bike bobbing whilst pedalling. It adds low speed compression damping – it shouldn't be used to jack up a shock that is set up too soft to start with?

So can I get TFT to keep the low speed compression damping set up and reduce the mid and high speed compression damping – that could prevent me getting full travel if there's too much? Like I said I ticked 'XC racing' and 'XC fun', now that doesn't imply I'm going to need the same sort of compression damping that someone hucking off 6 ft drops will need does it??

Yep, I added a few kilos for a camel back and ticked xc racing and xc fun. I don't see how they'd tune it with such an agressive ramp up for "xc fun"???

Its on a Trek Fuel Ex, the non ABP version – the only thing I can think is that they tuned it for an ABP version? I don't believe it could make that much difference?

Just got some of the Crud Roadracer guards. Fitted the front one, still got the rear one to do.

Look pretty good so far as mudguards go but I haven't ridden them yet

I'd be interested in any routes in this area too – but again don't have a GPS – could you post a screen shot of the route so we could look on the map?

Thought it was the Super 4 on Merlin? They're lighter than the old Meta 4 and the Meta 5

The rev's won't dive as low, but surely if they're 130mm travel they will dive 130mm just like all the other 130mm forks?

Depends if you need or want a low front end or whether 7mm is 3/5 of naff all in reality?

Ok, thanks, I'll have a look for one

Daft question but will they do them in B&Q?

And I presume I need it to grip better in the bearing outer race than the outer race grips the freehub? So there's a happy medium to how much I tighten it up?

The race is at the outer edge of the freehub, so I can get to it, I just can't get to the 'rear' side of it to tap it out.

A dremel's going to eat the alloy freehub though if I slip. Do I feel lucky??? I'll have a look in the morning, it might be an option. Ta!

Thanks chaps!

I think the outer race seats on a surface so you can't press it too far – its only thin so you'd normally have to tap out using the inner race.

I'll have a look. I might be able to get it welded at work or the gf's dad, but thanks for the offer GeForce

Whats the spec?

£400?

I had a look on On-One the other day looking for a non-slotted Scandal and was disappointed. I don't want the versatility of a slotted drop out and its still more faff to remove the rear wheel.

There are 3 versions of Inbred (maybe more if you count 456, Summer Season, slotted, non slotted la la la) so why no non-slotted Scandal??

Its kind off indicative of a lot of paying over the odds though isn't it, just because its to do with bikes??

Are they worth an upgrade over my existing Juicys?

And whats the downgraded Elixir 5 (or 3?) like?? Or is it just a lack of adjustment features?

Its a Cane Creek S3 that died on me. The bearings were corroded all round the outside and though I took the seals out, the ball retainers got in the way of putting any meaningful amount of new grease in.

That was after about a years use. Not that I mind servicing things but it seems cartidge bearings cost so much more than a packet of loose balls!

Do the Chris King or Hope have any extra sealing in the bottom race?

The Cane Creek I had just had a bog standard cartridge bearing and that just doesn't seem sufficient.

Just what is it that makes CK or Hope that much better??

Does anyone use a Woodman Axis SL? They look quite good on ebay for £30 but its about the same price as a Canecreek and I'd like something a bit better sealed.

My Canecreek also just died and the bearings weren't recoverable but they look the same as what go into the spare Superstar GTO headset I had lying around. For all the blurb about 'custom' bearings in Cane creek headsets, what a load of balls!?

Like Sinatra says they're not designed for the road.

They have a low profile and there's a 'lead in' slope to each row of blocks so they drag a lot less than most. They'll drag more than a slick but less than something like a super tacky Swampthing or other big knobbly you care to mention.

It's pretty subjective but for an off road tyre they're ok on the road (and pretty damn fast off road)

Why would there be any benefit?

Shorter people sometimes like shorter cranks. Not like you're going to need extra ground clearance in an xc race is it really?

Its a personal preference thing most the time

Charge Spoon. The Ti version is about 10g lighter so not really worth the extra. I can't remember thinking about it being uncomfy or comfy so its probably a very good sign I just don't notice it.

Before that I had a WTB Laser V for a long time which was also very comfy. Probably a bit more padded and a slightly wider nose than the Spoon.

Some degreasers have a rust inhibitor. Depends what it is. If it were say (oil based) white spirit, I'd wipe clean and leave to dry. If it were stuff like Muc Off (not strictly a degreaser maybe before anyone gets pedantic) which starts wrecking anodized coatings then I'd wash it off.

What do the instructions say?