@dander thanks for reply.  Haven’t tried both firmware versions, just the one that gives the quickest response.  Maybe we should try the other firmware version?

Good to know it should work and I can’t believe I’ve been super unlucky with two identical turbos and running off two different laptops.  In fact, I think I have tried 3 laptops all on Windows 11.

Has anyone used this turbo in erg mode with Trainerroad on a PC running from the desktop TR app?

PC detects the trainer as a smart trainer but just doesn’t alter the resistance to suit the power numbers in a workout.

We have two Pinnacle turbos in the house and it is the same for both on two different PC’s.

They work fine via the android app on a tablet or phone though.

It’s a proprietary Decathlon/Rockrider lever. I’ve been engaging with their tech department but from what they have just sent me, it doesn’t look like any of the manuals deal with the lock out.

And with the cover off the lock out lever, it pulls the cables in opposite directions. So only one cable at a time is taught but they both need to be taught.

I might be underestimating the mechanics that work in Decathlon, but having never seen this bike in store for sale and their online tech support not seeming (yet?) to have the full suite of technical documents to outline the correct set up, I am doubtful they will be faniliar enough with it that they can sort it. (any more than I can when I’ve been building and maintaining my own bikes for 30 years). I could be wrong though….

I’ve not been impressed with Goretex or event, neither seem any better at keeping water out than own brand membranes. In fact a Goretex Active jacket I had clearly leaked through the fabric.

I wish Decathlon did riding jackets out of the same stuff they make their Quechua walking jackets from. Had one of those for a few years and the water always beads on the surface without ever having been reproofed.

+1 for Rapha also, I got a team sky rain Cape (jacket) a few years ago cheap and again, one of the most consistently waterproof jackets I’ve had despite minimal after care.

What I wouldnt give for a circa 1997 Rab waterproof though when they used to use both Nikwax analogy and a separate membrane in tandem on the same jacket. Amazing jackets, I still have one but it’s a bit too big nowadays.

A turbo session of really light load stimulates the immune response and will aid with recovery. But that really means barely any effort at all. I.e. raise the heart rate a little above resting. If you even get to an aerobic effort, you’ve probably gone too far. It’s really something to get the circulation going and no more. And just cos it’s easy, that doesn’t mean to say go for longer; you can induce more fatigue if you go too long regardless of it being easy.

Just seen this thread. My son is T1 Diabetic and has been using a Medtronic pump for nearly 4 years so he’s shortly due a replacement and Omnipod is an option. I was quite keen for him with that one, no trailing tubes etc but reading the reviews in America where they have more awareness of cost of medical intervention, it gets rated as a “budget” option.

Anyone used a more typical pump with tubing and Camila separate and then moved to Omnipod?

I wouldn’t assume “tubeless ready” means the rims are taped already.

I’ve had Prime wheels, Pacenti rimmed wheels, a disc TT wheel stated as tubeless and also some basic Bontrager TLR wheels that needed taping. On the other hand, I had some Novatec wheels and Mavic UST wheels supplied with tape pre-fitted.

So it could be valves, tape and sealant. Along with tubeless tyres.

And you’ll only find out when you come to inflate but you might need some way of inflating the tyre super quick to get it to seat on the rim properly. A CO2 cannister will do it but get it wrong and it starts to become expensive. A dedicated tubeless inflator is a good investment but pricey upfront. A compressor also might be good enough. Track pump at the very least, but sometimes you just can’t get the tyre to seat quick enough to stop the air just flowing out. It’s quite hit and miss as to whether a track pump alone will do it.

I’ve got a CAAD12 (rim brake) which weighs somewhere just under 7.5kg. Rides nicer than the Emonda ALR I used to have. That rode nicely too but felt just a little bit softer under power. CAAD12 rides nicer and handles better than than the carbon road bikes I’ve had and have too. Wish I could find that feel in an alu disc road bike but I doubt the CAAD13 is it from what I’ve read.

You’ll need a tensioner with those dropouts. They’re the same as vertical ones but on a slant – unless you seat the axle properly it could come out. Not like the old style slotted horizontal drop outs.

Turn those handlebars slightly too as they look a bit droopy.

Nice bike tho, simple and no fuss :-)

I’ve been running tubeless for 15 years without even thinking about inserts and whilst I don’t do anything extreme, I don’t know why you’d go for inserts unless you were persistently flatting or mangling your current set up. My tubeless rims and tyres were fine running at 15psi at Megavalanche in 2012…

People managed before inserts came along.

Yeah Hylix were eBay. ICan are via eBay and direct I think.

I have used a number of iCan and Hylix carbon components on road bikes.

I have a couple of Hylix in line ones currently, a 25.4mm for my Cannondale and a 31.6mm on another bike.

Latest Hylix one was less than £50 and weighs about 150g.

I always use a liberal blob of wood/latex glue around the rubber valve base. Maybe you shouldn’t need it, but why make things hard for yourself?

There was a guy I met on a biking holiday last year and he swore by 45psi in his tubeless Continental GP5000. Think they will have been at least 28mm but he still probably weighed 70kg or so.

There is a chart around somewhere that gives tire pressures for a given weight/vertical deflection. Basically it suggests we’re all running pressures too high. With tubes you want to completely eliminate the chance of a pinch flat. So that’s essentially zero bottoming out on a ride. Whilst you don’t want to be bashing/bottoming the rim persistently, what might have caused a pinch flat won’t affect tubeless, you can get away with lower and on the off chance you bottom out, it won’t have that likely consequence it would have for a tubed tyre.

Pressure will also partly depend on how sturdy the side wall is. So that probably means tyres like Vittoria open tubeless need to be at a higher pressure than tyres with a more rubbery side wall

This might sound daft but you have it in exactly the right position in relation to the splines? It is possible to sit the last sprocket on the freehub without the wide spline being in the correct place. It won’t sit deep enough on the freehub body/in relation to the next sprocket but it will still look like it’s on the freehub.

Having said that, and having swapped a couple of 11 speed cassettes this afternoon, even seated correctly, they do sit noticeably proud of the end of the freehub body. It could indeed look like about half the depth of the lock ring threads. The lockring will then nip up (some of) the gap. Maybe not completely but there needs to be a gap so the cassette is tight – and not loose because the lockring has bottomed out on the freehub.

Why not buy a proper turbo tyre? Decathlon have 26″ turbo tyres for £13 in stock.

I’ve had some normal tyres melt on me on and go pop on the turbo. Sometimes they last ok, but I’ve had 3 years+ out of the proper turbo tyre.

We’ve had a few Frogs and they’ve been fine, but the geometry wasn’t quite as good as Islabikes – from a fit point of view, the bottom bracket on the frog’s have been higher which has meant a higher saddle. So when they first got them, often they couldn’t touch their feet on the ground with the saddle at the right height. Was just a case of scooting off the front of the saddle when they stopped though, or have the saddle a little lower than optimal.

Islabikes are pricey though last time I looked so I would look elsewhere if my kids weren’t already getting to an age where small adult bikes are becoming an option

Same position on all bikes?

I sometimes think your shape and muscles change around the saddle area, so that over time what used to be a comfy saddle might no longer be.

And also the padding (even if it is minimal) on saddles will get packed down and worn in certain areas – it might look the same when you’re not sat on it, but sit on it and it could be sagging in a whole different way from how it did when new

Decathlon BTwin. Lycra shorts for less than a tenner, bibs for £20, baggies available also.

On the other hand, their road wheels are very good. I’ve had no problems with a number of pairs.

Just bought a Bontrager Aeolus in the widest version – more for a hip injury than numbness…. But I have to say it is the least like sitting on a saddle I have ever known. That’s in a good way. At the end of a 4 hour ride, I’d still be comfortable on say the Fabric Scoop on my other bikes, but you still know you’re sat on a bike saddle. The Aeolus is on another level. Fantastic!

This is on the road bike, don’t know how it would be on the MTB.

I have other bikes with Fabric Scoop, Bontrager Montrose, Prime and Decathlon too which are all pretty good, but not all with a cut out.

As others have suggested, I’d check your saddle position too.

Yeah, I was hopefully just unlucky. I’m going to slap on some helitape and get on with it.

+1 for decathlon BTwin kids stuff and it sizing up small

Di2 just seems a half way house, what with wires to route through frames. Etap being wireless seems like it has the most benefits in both use and maintenance/fitting.

Fair point Bearback, but I have to admit, the lower mark of the two was me trying to replicate the scratch, I was that astounded by how easily I perceived the first scrape to have happened. I can’t deflect the carbon with my thumbs, so I don’t see how a bike that I have mostly supported the weight of whilst I lifted it could have flexed the carbon. I didn’t just push the other bike against it, was trying to hook the drop handlebar over top tube to make some space.

Anyway, i’m sure it will get worse scuffs and marks over the years. If people thinks it’s reasonable damage, then fair enough :-)

I literally just lifted the handlebars of the drop barred bike over the top tube, to prop the bikes more closely together against a wall and as I did so I caught it with the bottom tip of the brake lever. Whilst the brake lever tip is vaguely pointy, I wouldn’t have said it was exactly a sharp gouging edge??

Maybe other damage has not been visible but I’ve dropped spanners, Allen keys on other carbon frames I’ve had before, had them fall against bare brick walls and not even had a scratch.

Happily the sides of the frame and down tube are helitaped from the factory, but I think i’ll add some to the top tube too and any other exposed areas.

Just trying to figure out how to link a photo but it’s taken the gloss finish off like there is a little piece of missing cellotape. Colour is still there below.(well, it’s black, so I assume it’s paint colour and not carbon)

I originally used a cheap road tyre, lasted ok but when it wore out I tried a different cheap road tyre and that near melted after just a few rides. The proper turbo tyre I then put on has lasted about 5 years of 3-4 hours a week at least and still going strong.

A friend of mine had one of their full suss bikes back in the days of 26″ wheels, and it was very good for the money.

There is an mbr review of the AM100S on the web. Sounds like it was ok but that they’d picked the wrong wheel size (that one could take 27, 27.5 and 29″ wheels).

I’ve had a stock alert set up on a few of their bikes and it seems there is a steady trickle, you have to be quick if you get alerted but then they seem to come back in again within a few weeks.

What strange standard jsync? My 900S has fairly standard looking Mavic Crossmax wheels….

I’ve used both. Mantel cheap and very fast delivery to say they’re across the water. Lord Gun fine too but a little longer delivery.

Aside from the built in lights, it’s not the point but it does look pretty aero, like Abus’s Game changer helmet…..

It’s doable but sealant often helps seal around the valve hole. So whether your tyre needs it or not for riding, you might need it to keep the tyre inflated to start with.

Put the sealant in through the valve with the the core removed and it’s not really that much faff, is it.

I think using no sealant defeats one of the main advantages of tubeless and makes it a whole lot harder to even get it all working.

Perhaps it isn’t torque then but the way the software is programmed?

It seems it could be a sliding scale….. At one end, I am only rotating the pedals with minimal effort but yet the motor is giving me the maximum 250watts at the push of a button. That 250 watts input stays there so long as the pedals are still turning, unless I reach 15.5mph. On the other hand, the software and sensors could detect that I am only putting in ~50watts of my own effort and so the motor will only assist with a similar 50 watts. If I put in 100watts then the motor puts in a roughly comparable amount and so on. It is a latter set up like this that I perceive my Orbea to have.

Are there any that give a much bigger proportion of motor input compared to human effort?

So I can only alter the amount of assist I get for low, medium and high settings. Even in high setting with it giving me 100% assist, it’s still very much an assist style bike. So up a hill I don’t get a guaranteed 15.5mph or even close if I’m not putting in a reasonable effort myself. Someone said to me it matches your power output – so if I put in 200w, it will assist with 200w. Which feels about right. Is there anything that gives more assist for less rider input?

The Orbea is pretty acceptable over 15.5mph when the assist cuts out, which I agree is easy to exceed on the flat.

Do more torque-y motors make it easier to get to 15.5 going up a hill?

I would compare each one, one by one against the reading the turbo gives. Knowing the +/-accuracy of each device and the turbo, you can work out the range of overlap and the confidence you have that some of them read similarly.

One or two percent difference is barely the difference between a good days training session and a bad days session. If it’s more than a few percent at least you can make an educated adjustment depending which one you are using

I had a Hongfu FM066 which was fine, looked identical to Planet-X RT80(?) when they started selling that.

A friend has an Ican aero road frame and that’s been fine too. I think it is the ones branded up to ape the top brands that you should be wary of. I would hazard a guess that (most) Chinese factories have a reputation they want to keep too.

I have various sets of road wheels set up Tubeless. Hutchinson, Vittoria and Schwalbe tyres. Some go softer over the course of a week, some stay rock hard for weeks and weeks.

I think it’s the valve seating you need to pay attention to most. I knocked the valve on one of the wheels once after a ride and the tyre went soft over night, not flat just soft. Tightening the valve collar and also a blob of wood glue round the collar and rim interface did the trick and it’s back to holding air for weeks without needing pumping up.

I usually put about 30-60ml in. Two capfuls and some usually spills out whilst I get the tyre on. I could do it through the valve once seated but don’t usually bother with that. I also use thick washing up/water solution to get the tyre to seat really well.

If you measure the right reference points you’ll end up sat in the same position with the same contact points, regardless of how they are joined up by frame and bars. Frame angles might make a difference to how you have to then ride that bike, or position yourself in the saddle. It’s probably more of a dynamic thing for MTB than road.

I downloaded an app a while back which says RBF 2.1 on the icon. You take photos of you on your bike and input static dimensions including the distance from the camera. Never tried it so I can’t comment on how good it is though