Thanks scaredypants.

I’d avoid advice on tyres from anyone who doesn’t regularly ride in the wet unless you live in a country where it never rains.

what is chilterns flint? and why does it not occur in summer, spring or autumn? :?

Conti tyre construction and QC can leave a lot to be desired IME. Despite having the full range available to me at cost price I avoid Conti tyres now. there are plenty equally good and better alternatives out there.

Is there any particular reason you can’t explain to him how the gears work and how to use them?

if so, Why not just fix the front mech in the middle position via the limit screws.?
Hotrocks don’t have a particularly wide range cassettes so a triple (or double) chainset should come in fairly handy unless it’s only ever going to used for short mud free flat rides.

Jif-Mousse bathroom cleaner. (I believe the youngsters refer to this as “”sif” these days but weirdly spell it C i f.)

foam up the whole bike, leave it 5 mins (or until it’s no longer foamy and wash it off.. the whole thing will sparkle, especially your cassette etc.. don’t worry it doesn’t affect the performance of brakes, shock seals etc. or damage paint/plastics(carbon).

It’s what I always use if selling a bike to make it look as good as possible. a normal cleanish bike and looked after drivetrain does me fine personally.

[ img ] pic of Jeff Jones or some other beardy riding some lame little drop off [/ img ]

& how do you get on in steep techy stuff

from experience they generally walk and not even very skillfully doing that ;)

Words and pictures from someone who seems to have used one.
http://enduro-mtb.com/en/exclusive-review-the-all-new-vecnum-moveloc-seatpost/

Can you only purchase these direct from Vecnum?

an “unboxing” thread :(

Very interested to hear about the actual product.

Sunn Doublewides must’ve bee close to 50mm (ext) plenty folk ran 2.2 Michelin comp 16s on those with no drama back in the huck to flat days.

Guessing you mean some Fatbike things tho.

No. not all. It’s also down to how well the ISCG mounts are attached to the frame, how the bash is connected to them and the construction of the actual Bashguard.
If you’re really worried use a weak polycarbon bash attached with Alu bolts or maybe just keep cleaning the bike instead of riding it. ;)

If you wanna be a rockstar you gotta accept the Paps.. wannabe’s can always hang about the stage door.

lol

Take it to a bike shop for them to diagnose the problem (and you’ll know for sure)..
Any decent bike repair shop should check:
cables – bad inner, bad outer, damaged ferrules, poor routing
mech – bent/damaged, worn pivots, worn top jokey wheel, poor spring tension or simply poorly adjusted/set-up/fitted.
Hanger – possibly bent/loose/damaged
Shifter – internally worn/sticky/damaged.
Cassette – individual sprockets bent/loose
chain – wear/damage

All this shouldn’t cost you more than a tenner (ex parts). Seems you’d be getting pretty good VFM to me.

to save yourself some grief wouldn’t it be possible to just fit a 26T granny? 26/11 is plenty high enough for ice cream runs along the coast and with a normal cassette (similar low gear) and resulting shorter chain length you probably won’t even need anything fancy for chainring retention.

my thoughts are if a fat **** like me can manage all the climbs in the area on 8speed 36T 11-28 how is a svelt rider like yourself struggling on 30T 11-34?
I actually run a 22T granny and front mech as my “bailout” gear but never really use it.

Assuming we are talking 26″ wheel mtb, you don’t say?

where and what sort of rides are you planning on using this bike?

This is a bad thread to look at…ideas are growing in my head

like breaking into peoples homes/sheds/garages and taking an allen key to their seatpost clamps and sorting out all those god awful ugly horizontal saddles? Aye, me too. 8)

ha ha… the round I smashed my left pedal in half in the first rocks on the first run and crashed coming into the last switchbacks on the second?

No excuses tho. you did beat this old bastard fair and square :oops:

You’d seriously take a Slopestyle inspired bike to Dumyat to test it? 8O

Cambu maybe, but not Dumyat

Pretty sure you dropped it when you hit that tree back in 2004 :P

we could always go back and look for it, might be halfway down Pete Williams track by now

Caberston – full of hand(ish) cut technical, steep, root and rock littered descents, the odd techy climb and miles of fire road climbing. it’s the hill opposite Traquair & Elibank (Inners Trailcentre)

Thornielee – about 8miles further down the road (towards Gala).. nice technical(ish) trails ranging from super steep to fairly mellow but less roots/rocks and a quicker climb to the top.

bigjim – Member
thornielee was helluva muddy last weekend, thick clay mud

And? :?

what day are you going?

Scout is about the only bike I’ve been vaguely interested in in over a decade, just a pity it has stupid sixfiddy B wheels.

and def not the Pentlands or Dumyat

I’d be taking a scout straight to Caberston/Thornielee not GT/Inners

my daughter asked me to ride down a longer set than that with her behind me on the tag-a-long..
We did.
she was 4 at the time.
there was no suspension or 29″ wheels.
she is AWESOME tho.

No pressure. 8)

My world!

You haven’t ridden both frames have you, Dirtyrider?

form an opinion before pausing and reading properly.

Re-read what I wrote for you yet? :lol:

the most marked difference is the geometry, the Planet-X is quite relaxed, the Cannondale is a race frame,

eh? if anything the PX has less relaxed geometry than the ‘dale S6

The most marked difference is the price. The PX geometry is perfectly good enough to race on. maybe not neo-pro enough for many aspiring “racers”

bite? get over yourself. read what I typed (maybe a few times) and take it on the chin. it’s good advice. and free.

Al, you can buy me a pint

hora, How about I find you a video on YouTube that will help you alter your saddle position and you send Al £30 for my trouble?

Al, You ok with that?

Good!

Sorted. ;)

Ok.

don’t take this the wrong way, but you are clearly a complete novice road rider and the only difference you’ll notice will be in your head (either from what you’ve read on here or from the perceived worth of a more expensive frame).

Having read your ramblings on here over the years it’s clear you don’t have a clue about geometry, fit, handling or even frame materials/design of mtb frames.

Stick with the PX (assuming it fits) stop buying “upgrades” for it and actually ride the thing. choose something else in a few years. ATM it’s way more capable a bike than the rider is.

£60 to alter your saddle position and tell you you’d be more comfortable with a shorter stem is a piss take.
Any good roadie bike shop would do this for a regular customer (or a new customer who’s just bought a bike) for free.

Hora. how much have you ridden the PX ?

look on yer Dug’s pus kinda says it all wysiwyg ;)

Northwind – Member
And 3 rear wheels

26/27.5/29 futureproof! way ahead of the game ;)

Yeah I love night riding sans lights too. do it all the time on my own locally, doesn’t even need to be a full moon as I know the local trails so well.
larger group rides I’ll generally leave mine off most of the night too.

99/00 Barracuda subway was the business at the time. 08 STP now I’m an owd mayn.

Sov’s have some following considering every Evil hardtail frame ever designed was a complete mess for one reason or another. At least the Imperial looked AWESOMEZ 4HUXORZ 2FLAT ! ;)

remember kidz:

2 top tubes > one

if good cornering characteristics don’t matter to you yes… hell, why not go the whole hog and buy one of those Fatbikes. I hear they’re specially designed to be used on big wide beaches with an ice cream shop at the end. Once you’ve finished your double 99 The ice cream vendor will happily help you turn it around so you can pedal it slowly back to your car.

Vredestein Fortezza.
various versions available, main difference being toughness/puncture protection.
great all season tyres.
grip great.
supple for a winter tyre.
roll well.
tough as you’ll ever need.
and pretty light.
good prices online.

don’t fall apart like contis.

why would you need a solid sole with a cleat bolted to it re-soled… like ever… oh great, and wise queen?

took me a good while to get used to 172.5 on my newest roadbike after years of 170s both on and off-road. still don’t like the 172.5s after 2000+ miles but just can’t justify the outlay to change right now

no idea if you will notice or not

1500-2000miles on mtbs
4000-5000miles on roadbikes

change chain, cassette and rings.

**** around with 3 chains per cassette is for folk who faff and obsess about their bikes more than actually ride IMO