Better = overall healthier option I guess. I recently changed from a can of diet coke every lunchtime to a cold pint of whole milk but people describe it as the devil’s piss on this thread.

So what is better for weekdays work lunch – a pint of whole milk or a can of diet coke?

I think of professional sports like ladders with everyone on a different rung. Some making better livings than others. If any cheater takes up a rung it stops a genuine sports person from getting on the lowest rung. Many many people have been done out of a professional career they deserved due to these weak minded “criminals”. 🙁

On a slightly different note. A saying in motorsport is “If you are not cheating then you are not trying”.

It is good to see a cheating being recognised but don’t expect miracles. Life is one big tough competition.

Had a little look up on the belt thing and am probably wrong. Horrible that it failed after going all that distance. Would have been good to see these run up on the dyno before they made the trip.

So much blasphemy on this thread. Please stick to RWD comparisions and stop bringing in inferior “handling” ideas such as combining the steering with the driven axles. There are some good 4wd cars out the with rear bias but they are still spoiled 😆

I also applaud Toyota and Subaru for this and hope it brings further affordable fun cars to the market instead of the utter boredom out there.

A cheeky 50 miles up to Loch Lomond taking in the West Highland Way. Felt like pushing myself to start the year.

Felt for the guys with the seized supercharger early on but it was probably a result of their belt installation. 🙁

I would think a WC DH rider would have enough energy to boil the brakes properly on a run if on marginal equipment(some poor souls are even sponsored by Avid :wink:) If so then they may wish to bleed the brakes often to maintain a consistant feel.

I thought the line was open to the reservior until you pressed the lever pushing the master cylinder and applying pressure to the fluid in the brake line, hence the reservoir can operate. The common issue with bikes is probably that they are much eaiser to put upside down than motorbikes,cars and trucks. I’m sure some designs etc are more prone to issues than others when gravity gets it’s wicked way when the lever has no pressure on it.

You would still want to tune the damping on the coil shock unless you got very lucky imo.

Can’t remember where I read it but is says about specialized supplying the frames so he might still be on fox/shimano/redbull etc. Think there will be a few of these mixed up teams in 2013 with people staying on their induvidual component deals etc

11-36 won’t work on a small mech? I was thinking of going with a saint small cage mech and thought it came with a convertor to run exactly this setup?

Great insight mboy and food for thought. hmmmmm

I can see a coin coming into this decision!

Really appreciate the experiences, especially Banks for putting it twice as I missed it the first time 😉 Chat on forum shocker, it has also never been done before lol

A mixed bag of experiences and I am stuck wanting to scratch an itch so think this is enough to warrant a trial. If it was mega negative feedback with a majority of stories going back to double I would not bother.

Chunky – love the xx1 concept if it works well but it is price prohibative and nothing else is popping up on the rumour mill for cheaper alternatives. 😐

I am in west end so will keep an eye out for them.

Same as above, pics and general location.

The man himself.

“Proud to announce that I will be riding for Specialized moving forward. There’s much more to the story than what’s been shared and i’m looking forward to setting that straight very soon. Thanks to my team and fans who’ve had my back in this time”

I wouldn’t bother with the bike change for racing enduro tbh. Especially your first real crack at it. I doubt it will make any significant difference to your results compared to tons of training and careful setup of what you have. The evo is also nice and robust for the Alps.

Now if you just have to buy a new bike and you have the wedge I would try the new S works enduro.

The boys that machined their own heads, crank etc – legends. I think it may be making a slightly different noise by the end of the second program but fair play x 1000!

xx1 is a little more than a “bit much” to me. I do like the idea of it so wondered what rumours were our there or if anyone knew where Shimano/SRAM were heading. Shame if SRAM is keep it in the uber expensive range but guess it depends on the market.

Love when a site can offer ace advice on totally random topics. Thanks for all the help.

…we may avoid Boroughbridge due to the majority write up lol

Perfect – thanks for the suggestions – you are all stars 😀

I think my friend’s came with OE 120mm floats. I have a 2004 100mm stumpjumper fsr which has 130mm forks and is good fun. The BB is so low as standard that it does not feel high and you still feel in the bike and low in corners. It does trade off in climbing.

Top warning Banana. 🙂

If 50/50 and happy to leave it then probably do that unless you are going to be out of cash fixing the car and require a worthwhile claim. There are fannies all over the place and she met this one today. 🙁

Ask your wife what she wants first.

Guard first, shorts later if required. This way you will have the least sweaty bum solution

Agree with Psling. Currently no proven loss to claim against.

Rode Kirri a few weekends ago. The black was beautiful with a fresh bed of needles turning it into lovely golden singletrack.

The bike shop has always been nice and helpful with no stupid time limit on the bike wash. 😀

I would start by tuning the air spring volume yourself. Probably best in decend which will be the most open. Get the sag, small bump and mid support as close to perfect and then see if you have to tune the damper. Spending time doing this will help you give the tuner the exact changes to the character of the fork you require.

Legend.

He says the only rule is no stored energy. Could you incorporate some sort of leg enhancement like seen on the runners in the paralympics to give more power. Also extended legs may allow you to turn bigger cranks/crankrings with more ease etc. Come on Graeme – fling everything at it

Cheers Teapot – I will be looking for 170mm.

Now I am properly confused. How does a double use the same cranks/web as a triple with same offset etc? 😕

I like these answers. At one point I did have m970 xtr cranks and they were a little bit of a faff to run as double and I was worried the newer XTR would kill off options.

The above sounds good.

You won’t ovalise anything if you have the right conical spacers in.

You can probably shape most 140-160mm bikes into the mold you want. In my case I have a 160mm fsr frame. With an air rear shock with a swichable platform I can enjoy all day rides or DH fun.

At the weekend I did Kirroughtree with it where I would usually ride my 100mm travel fs bike. It was absolutely ace on the big bike as it is good compromise and adaptable for many types of riding.

Make sure you buy something you lust after and it will seem half the weight 😆

I’m with Druidh.

I have never had a smartphone, tablet, go pro(or other action) camera etc because of current marketing trends. If I were to buy one I would have the shine taken off of it within a few months as I watch an updated model come out. My confused attitude to this is becoming worse and worse and I find purchasing most things a huge dilema even though I have the cash for them. 🙁 I have this underlying feeling that the manufacturer will not stand by their product and that it will be lacking robustness etc to be worth my purchase.

It is really annoying as I used to love new tech and shiny things but no longer get enjoyment due to the above feelings or I just don’t buy anything as seems to be the case. I currently have an old laptop that is on it’s last legs and the process of replacing it freaks me out. 😳

I don’t completely agree with having to buy BOS rear to match devilles. I have had a bike with a van R coil and currently one with a RP23. I Push tuned both of these with more slow speed and less high speed compression to match the way I personally setup up my deville forks and find the balance spot on. RP23 also has the smallest volume reducer. Thought I would want to coil the new bike but have had zero need as it feels lovely.

I have had best bleeds on all brakes by taking the brake off the bike and hanging then vertically with calliper at bottom. Mega bleeds on XTs, OROs and Hopes using this method and moving the caliper about a bit to knock any air out of caught spaces into the line and up to the lever. 🙂

I thought that FSR four bar did next to nothing to reduce bob and that it was based around low chain growth and low brake jack. Seems to give very sure footed handling in the rough. Having back to backed a single pivot and an FSR it is amazing how controlled the FSR is should you need to steer the rear with the back brake on fast chatter.

I have a short attention span – did you break it typing? 😆 Hope you heal up well and fast. Know a few folk down just now 🙁