I can try the Fox Pros locally so will.

Jedi – do the Scotts go through a wash cycle OK?

I have read many places that D30 does not like washing machines but not heard of the actual results. I don’t have time to hand wash etc so this is a deal breaker. The Raceface do look nice as well.

Need equivalent side protection as my frame likes to hit me during normal riding.

Can anyone confirm if the Raceface d30 stuff is happy in the washing machine, I thought all D30 was no no?

Liftman – have you stuck the launch pros in the machine?

I did it this way – many folk will pick holes in this method such as may put more stress on the post end barb, had to put stickers on where it rubs the seat tube etc but I have had no issue and it is very quiet and out of the way and been working well for 2 months. Will probably explode on the next ride so I shall update this thread for “I told you so”s! 😆

Go easy on them on the woodwork, they are holy shit powerful.

Excellent, get them bought and we will have a shot when we are out in summer 😉

It was R53 that confirmed my thoughts that it is clockwise to increase all damping and that the stickers and the manual may be misleading. I questioned it as the LSC is on an opposite thread but was given the reason why clockwise still increases the damping.

Pretty easy to remember as it feels natural to wind the damping in/on

Specialized Enduro Evo uses a 180 chassis at 170mm – think it is a coil and not the float.

And old thread about lowering here but does not look good:
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/f19/lower-180-vanilla-160-a-236297/

Think the Float version can be lowered easier. Don’t know how well any of them perform.

All knobs on the Deville work by turning clockwise equals more damping – counter clockwise equals less. I think one of the stickers is even wrong.

Pulling a rear wheel off and laying your bike down on the mech/hanger/chain and big ring on the trail while you fix a puncture is a great idea.

Taking the time to turn your bike upside down, risking a very minor scratch to your grip lock rings if you have them (nothing else as you have set your bars up to turn your bike over) and allowing the lubricating oil in your forks a chance at getting past the upper bushing on a forced break is a terrible idea…

I can understand competition racers trying to be fast as possible.

Well I think it is working fine, you have not yet listed one negative experience from riding it. 😆

Have done 1 to 1 with Andy of Dirtschool twice at Glentress. Was very good and would go a third time.

None. What is wrong with it or what do you want to improve?

The one thing that strikes me from any Tony/Jedi thread is that people come away happy. Some people go away and continue their learning and others malkie themselves at the first opportunity on things they were too scared to attempt before 😆

Keep up the good work Tony, good service is hard to find these days.

All the back and forward weighting is very unbalanced. How about just going for the middle with weight through your pedals and keeping it there as you go up and down and round. Bend your arms and legs properly and get your face down into the action. Think yourself now gnarr’d

I would guess if you try to “fix” this with clips with will be you and the bike decoupling from the ground instead of just you from the pedals. If you stay on and are happy then all good.

Suprised you don’t feel like your going over the bars all the time with so much motivation to weight the bars and unbalance the bike just because it is a hardtail.

Used to have the exact same happen to rear foot on same terrain when I got back into biking years ago. Does not happen at all now. I think the reason is that I am far more animated on the bike, more relaxed and work with the terrain. Get a video of yourself riding this type of stuff and you will probably find you are nowhere near the position you think you are in. I used to think I was in a good position and moving around – I simply wasn’t.

Must mention – I am still nothing special on a bike but this does not happen and I got between flats and clips a lot. You are decoupling from the pedals by not working with the terrain/bike.

Doug, thanks for the reply. I have been running the std resin pads so far and they are lasting very well but have not done any wet alpine DHs with them.

To the OP – don’t see the point in you changing. There are enough people on here fighting to show both are pretty good.

Doug: Are you getting good life out of resin or sintered shimano pads?

Interesting Dr P. How would you measure 30% sag on a Nomad 1 and 2 accurately? Would you work it back to shock stroke so that it is measurable and easier to set or do it another way?

Ae is a good day out if you head up the Shredder first, round the XC and then head up and do the DH to finish.

CCDB coil or air?

Only ride for enjoyment. Light hands, heavy feet.

Sorry, that was 2 tips – maybe even 3…

I don’t know what to think but am watching this as a friend has an Evo frame to build up later in the year. It is very odd that the “same” parts are a different size in the frame and that Spec told you to put the smaller one in given your reportings to them.

They are a big old company so if they had a big bad batch they may have been able to get SRAM to help them out. I remember reports that Spec had over sized 05-06 Enduro headtubes and that some people were having issues putting chris king headsets in for this reason. There was even discussion about slightly oversize headsets.

A strange situation here if the parts are the right ones.

Do you think that specialized fitted an oversize one originally due to a tolerance issue and got a special batch from SRAM slightly over sized?

It is a bit iffy with snow that has been sitting as it is tramped down into ice pretty quick. Even Rose XT brakes won’t slow you down on that.

You get to see all the terrain on the way up there so there should not be any suprises on the way down so you can take either type of helmet. Reckon on about 2/3 hiking and there is little disadvantage to taking a full face. It will be cold up there as well just now so snug ears. 🙂 Looked white further up when I saw it a week ago.

Lean the bike under you into corners or you will be on saying that the highroller is vague and washes out. 🙂

I am 11.5stone naked and felt the soft spring was better than the medium for almost everything. I would have prefered a spring between soft and medium.

Excellent – thanks for your help.

If I am flying Glasgow to London then on to Geneva do I have to book an extra bag for each leg. e.g pay 4 times for the extra bag for 2 legs and the return? I called BA and even they were not clear!

I went Havoc, supposed to be strong as hell and you can cut them down. I went from about 685 to 750 havocs then cut them down to 740 for a natural fit. Any bigger felt funky for tight slow speed steering.

Did the 60A tyre on the front make a good difference?

Have a look at all the bits on this:

http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/07/eng/rear_shocks/dhx_air_tech.htm

GW’s looks like a wild ride! Imagining the amount you have to work it on DH runs is quite a bit.

Love it to bits.

So Fox launch/scott grenades offer more protection than 661KS but as comfy for long periods?

Might look at these for my next set if so.

Interesting discussion. I thought that a heavy tint would mean you looking more directly at the Sun and risking higher than normal UV damage to your eyes. In reality I don’t even know if UV damages your eyes?

Pretty sure they would be, a work mate found the site. 🙂 I was warning him after previous threads.

Could be bobbles – I shaved the bobbles off the inside of my 661 kyle straits which worked. I think the bobbles have been caused by regular washing. They are on their third season and have been machine washed after every ride because I am not a mink.
The end of my straps point inwards on the correct leg which is different to above.

It is a shame bumble bee was not carrying a gun as a message to all camera boy warriors.