I had a similar question recently when fitting the headset in my Dawg, as Dave said the standard press won’t fit 1.5″ cups, also the upper cup on my frame was a 1 1/8″ semi int which i’m not convinced the press would do either so I didn’t bother buying one.

If you decide to go for one, they’re very cheap on rose bikes (think they might be a bit cheaper than wiggle).

I ended up with the old hammer / threaded bar with big washers and sockets. Went in fine but had to change my pants afterwards. The addition of sockets to spread the load to the outside of the washers made the cups go in much straighter than just with washers, I think they helped to keep the bar straight. :roll:

That’d be grand. Email now in profile.

Cheers. :D

I take pads out and use an avid bleed block, they also fit my hayes stroker trail calipers.

Actually, thinking further you’d be best putting the relay at the rose (or equivalent) as you’ll be able to swap the feed that goes to the lamps at the mo onto to the relay coil, and you’ll have the the ring supply there to feed over the contacts to the lamp. No issues with backbox space and no need to run any more cables then! :roll:

If you’ve got plenty of room in the back box and know how (sounds like you do), use the timer to switch a relay and the relay contacts to switch the lights. 8)

(I’m not a spark).

if you’re using an IS – PM adaptor this is what you’re after…

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21475

that kona article ……..

as a konafanboy i agree completely with their PR

buit its sums it up nicely

4-bar = more pedal bob
faux bar = more brake jack

Well, I spend more time pedalling than braking so….. 8O

Thats OK then as I bought it based on price and colour.

Good lord, I’m starting to have a slight interest in this now.

So, I get the technical difference. Question is, which is better? I’m guessing proper four bar as it appears it should be defended by a gentlemans honour at all costs, but if it is that much better then why bother with a faux bar design at all? I can’t see that it’ll cost any more or less….

so we surely can be allowed to discuss it?

Discuss WTF you’d like, this is the internet, knock yourself out! :lol:

Back to the original topic however, some people dont even have a hole, they have a small protrusion. They’re called ‘outies’. :wink:

thats not my image.

I’m sure that looks unusually deep…..

Such a promising thread title with such disappointing content

The way its going I might just start a new one with a picture of a belly button. :lol:

Think you will find it is a proper four bar back end.

Its not. Its effectively a single pivot with a linkage driven shock.

However its so close to a 4-bar that nobody really notices the difference.

Nice bike. Enjoy it.

Cheers mate.

This thread is turning rather amusing tedious. :roll:

Excellent, all the arguing about the linkage means nobody has noticed the amount of bird poop on my drive! :lol:

Hope this works…

I know the green hoses don’t go, just waiting for a little more cash flow to change them!

OP – lets see some more pics of your bike then.

Thats not my bike, i’ve got one pic on my phone, i’ll find somewhere to host it and post it up.

Where did you get the frame from?

I really enjoyed the play about I had one a few years ago.

From CRC in their half price kona frames thing theyve got at the moment.

I got a couple of 50ml ones for £2 each locally, they’re packaged for catering, like injecting jam into doughnuts etc. way better for bleeding than the piddly little ones that come with the avid kit and better than the squeezy bottle that comes with the hayes kit.

Just use a syringe at the calliper and an old waterbottle at the master cylinder end, push the fluid through, pull back a little to get the air out of the calliper, easiest bleeding i’ve ever done! :-)

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/crank-brothers-5050-mountain-bike-pedals-blue-pair-106666

Fixed (I think!) 8O

I fitted a 1.5 Hope reducer no bother with mine, but haven’t done a taper. So personally I’d give it a crack and if it didn’t work, use my more universally compatible headset tool (rubber mallet)

Yeah, see your thinking, but havent bought the press yet so may end up going straight to mallet if I’m too ashamed to take it to LBS.

Tomac supermatic?…what does that Hope lower race look like on the bike, looks minging in the pics…I’ve got a supermatic on the way and finding a suitable headset is confusing as hell…where did you get your HS from fella?

No, a Kona Dawg Supreme cheap from CRC. I just emailed Kona tech and asked what headset it needed as it didnt say on their website.

Headset is pick and mix from merlin.

I have a feeling i’ll have a similar experience to alfabus if I try it so might just admit defeat and go to LBS. Always feel crap taking stuff bought online to LBS though. (and i’m sure someone will now say “so you should”!)

Was going to start the same thread today too, brilliant service with a replacement charger for my vision 4.

Will deffo be buying a hope headset for my new frame once I figure out what the hell kind it needs!

There’s only plain red ones left it 18″ too, think i prefer the black anyway so that probably answers it!

OK, 18″ it is then.

Pricing? I certainly dont know, and can kind of believe you guys dont at the mo either! :lol:

This would be it here then:
Hope this link works!

Cheers guys.

I came down black hambleton on sat so know its not that!

A colleague had a cambridge briefly before it got pinched, i had one ride on it (had SPD pedals and I had my shoes with me), heels kept hitting chainstay on drive side. I asked him about it and how he can ride with SPDs on it, he said he’d move his cleats as far in as possible so it didnt happen anymore!
– dont think he was particularly sad when it got pinched, at least it stopped me asking why he’d spent quite so much on a bike that you couldnt even ride!

Took mine to Melbourne with Emirates a few months ago.

First thing, dont forget you can take 7kg in hand luggage, most of my clothes went in there, I took a 35ltr osprey rucksack which was around the max size and weighed f all.

Mine made it there fine, but make sure you pack it well and put spacers in your forks and rear drop outs (my forks had a 20mm axle which I forgot to tighten and they got a bit squashed but sprung back ok). I cut a piece of 15mm plastic pipe the width of a rear hub and put it in the frame on the QR to brace the rear.

Strangely, after a whole afternoon of paranoid cleaning, including removing the cleats from my shoes (amazing how much sheep poo can fit under them), I got to customs and they only asked to see the tyres. I bought new ones to take with me so they were spotless and they just waved me through. Think I may be the exception to the rule as I’ve heard some other stories of people having to pay $$$ for a clean or face having their bike confiscated.

Didn’t bother cleaning any more than hosing it down when returning to UK, nobody asked to see anything when I got back.

the 2nd gen had three cable stop on the top tube and have a thicker toptube so are stronger.

…mrjmt does that not answer your query then?

Yes, sorry didnt read it properly the first time!

ta.

:oops:

To be honest I like the way it rides with the longer forks so the geometry isnt too much of a concern, more the strength of the frame and if it can safely take the travel. (or am I getting confused?)

You do kind of get what you pay for, I also have a proper magicshine and I dont think the build quality of the cheapy one is quite up with it, but its still fine (no grease on o-rings, soldering less accurate, cable exit doesn’t have a gland).
I waterproofed the battery by plasti-dipping it, used red so it now resembles a cuboid babybell. Waterproofed the cable exit of the light with some silicone sealer.
Still comes with the old style charger that magicshine seem to have stopped supplying (although it charges at a lower current than my old magicshine one), hasn’t burnt my house down yet but i’m thinking of making and adapter cable to use my hope charger with it and putting it in a li-po charging bag.

No, I reckon its on of these – I have the non-assault crown version and the battery pack is the same as the ebay one (shrink wrap and cardboard ends). The magicshine you linked to has got the newer rubber covered battery pack.
:wink:

Just got back a week ago from 3 months work in Melbourne…

I stayed between south bank and south melbourne, just off St. Kilda Road. Highlights included:

Shrine of Remembrance is nice to have a wander around with a coffee, close to the Botanic gardens in same park mentioned above.
Get tram to St. Kilda for a walk along the beach.
Queen Vic market is good for buying tat to bring home.
Melbourne aquarium, second that, its well worth a visit.
Neighbours tour was OK, if you like that kind of thing.
Mount Dandenong is worth a visit, if you can get up to Sky High Mt Dandenong you’ll get a brilliant view of the city and surrounding basin.
Healesville Sanctuary is good to go see bush animals.
You Yangs range is good for MTB if you take your bike (or hire one in the city), its 10km from the station to the trails and trains are every 2 hours mostly so it can quickly turn into a full day activity.
Eureka Tower, the highest building in the southern hemisphere is good and you can go back up at night, very nice views of the city at dusk.
Wasn’t too impressed with Soverign Hill at Ballarat, bit of a gold mining version of Beamish, all a bit fake.
My office was just near Albert Park, I walked and rode around the lake a fair bit, but its really not that exciting.
A trip to Philip Island to see the penguins is good, and they come in at dusk so you can do something in the city on the same day.

Eating…
I can highly recommend Stalactites restaurant if you like Greek.
China town is worth a wander down (I cant recommend any Chinese restaurants though, not keen on chinese food).
Lygon Street is where to go for Italian food.

Think thats about it, there’s a tourist information in Federation Square where you can pick up maps / info, they’re quite helpful but not always 100% accurate with their advice.

:D

So, after a little more investigation, it appears to be random issues that dont display properly in ezpdf… others display fine.
Any ideas?!?