Cheers for the posts, though I went before Christmas. Took my bike with Thomson for £30; rentals were 165E+ per week…
Trails were great but steep (up). Many great documented mapped local trails; so sure of actual permission for bikes on some. I’m told La Ruta Los Volcanos is meant to be the best track but not legal as its in a Nat Park.
Down from the top Volcano was about my best ride ever. I had a decent printed Red los Senderos map but no local guide, which would helped but hey, I did OK. Map available from tourist offices.