The DU bushing is meant to wear and that does results in play. I’d guess that’ll be the problem.
Its worth looking at upgrade kits such from TF Tuned . Easy to fit.

My brothers and I had an old red gloss painted thing; back braking kind. Influenced by all those WWII TV shows like 12 O’clock High(big on US TV in the 60’s) we would practice “bailing out” by belting down the wide suburban avenues, lining up with the grassy curb, them jumping off sideways, landing in a double+ forward roll. On a good day you ended up on your feet with a few grass stains and no dog mess..

Didn’t help me though when younger brother though it a good physics experiment to throw a chain into the front wheel while I was going full pelt. My first slo-mo OTB event but for once there was someone else to blame…still

Oh yeah, must have been about 8.

It does have a use: add some chain lube to the stanchion, then bounce. The ring collects all the trail crud in one place to wipe off away from the seals. One on both forks of course, that helps the balance, as ^ 😉

Loosen the seat clamp?

Cheers BWD; that’s what I figured. End nuts sits on 10mm OD axle, so yes….
Just rebuilt the hub so missed a trick, doh! Though as its on my Marin Rock Springs TARA, its the whole rear end that are the real wiggly bits…

Just a thought, does someone do a heavier duty QR skewer to fit the full ~ 6mm inner diameter of the std QR axle? Ought to give some improvement…

Got an Work Comp headset external cup for the Canyon; the 10mm height or so does slacken HA by 0.5deg alone. Offset top & bottom another 1.0.

Doesn’t help the OP much except as an indication of the stack vs HA change.

So std thin QR Pro2 (not EVO) would need both new axle AND end caps for SStar 10mm QR to fit?

As I’ve posted, liked mine ( AM version) alot but poor seals and mud trapping design meant it corroded in less than a year with very expensive repair quote. It was maybe couple of hundred grams heavier than usual set up. Draggy whir not a real po lem.
If I cld get parts cheap wld consider refitting . .

Another thing is be to sure not to form too tight a radius, like just before the rear mech. Some fixing points are too close but cable ties give you more options in attaching the outers with less inner friction.

Yup, reckon you’ll need the Wright stuff, Orville.

+2

I put doing mine off for years and was recently pleased how easy and cheap it was to service. The challenge is finding the lube to quiet that swarm of bees….

Just do a forum search and follow that advice.

I do go there sometimes but it is more air than I generally do. There has been a lot of good new work there. Hopefully it’ll still stay under the radar or go more legit that it is now; local relations and with Council are good.

Hook up with them on Facebook: Esholt Dig & Ride Collective. It is a closed group though but they’l add you quick I’m sure.

Weh! Evening collective ar*ey mode..

Yes they’re quick.
The front one is really good & like other posts I rate better than Neoguard, which may have helped wear my stanchions. Light & small enough to leave on.
Less happy with butt one on one FS bike which flopped about and buzzed tyre under shock compression. Took it off & stuffed in a jacket pocket. I needed a thicker stiffer material.

Nice one! Unless you find some miraculous long life pads or ride somewhere without mud or dust, it is worth learning.
I rate the Superstar sintered pads BTW.

Good idea to check both pistons move as above and to squeeze them back fully before taking yhe old ones out. They do need to be right in in order to let the spring click in. Get the right & left pads sorted as they are different. Do not force them really hard as you can snap the posting pin off. You get a satisfying click when it’s reet.
Pretty easy though & good to know how to do it.

V good on a few online orders too.

Sorry, you said front hub. Worst case you might want a blind bearing removal tool. Superstar set is good I found.

Not sue about Cube but the M1800 OEM on my Canyon are not 240 etc but turned out to be Onyx. Quite different design but procedure is as above..Manual is on line once u know that -thanks to the STW Collective brain for that.
Check there is no hidden circlip in the free hub.

Got a few but +1 for the Park blue stuff.

Number 2 son had them all when younger before he got into skateboarding. All stacked up in the cupboards. Couldn’t bear chucking them but had to be ruthless & not regretted it. Kept the maps tho ( I like maps…)

Well, I’ve posted about my mixed but overall positive experience and generally recommend them. Canyon UK post on this forum and hopefully will address all the issues.

I’ve just recommended a carbon Trek Fuel EX to a MTB newbie friend so hope this has a happy & swift ending. We look fwd to news .

Made my teeth hurt. Had to run my tongue over them to check they were still there.
I know that’s particularly a Freudian thing but the whole slo-mo OTB video memory was triggered by that bizarre front end…

+1 for Katec. Used agsin last week. Good gear next day delivery.

Bearing removal kit from Superstar was good value.
Didn’t need special press etc; socket set & rubbers mallets were fine.

I get it more from not riding than after biking but it is bad when it flares up, and then keeps me off the bike. FS better than HT for me.
My physio in Baldon gave me pelvic floor exercises after last episode ( no, I haven’t ever given birth) . She runs a Pilates class in Baildon too.
On another STW thread I got a massage stick which can help a bit by rolling the lower back muscles.

Can I Esk Wye are we doing this?

I’ll get my Cardigan….

Yeah, no internal sheathing. Goes in at top transverse hole. It should poke out the bottom ok then into the dual bung doofer. Makes sure that is fitted in tight. It was easier for me as I’d taken the BB out.

That’s a white wine holder; red wine holder is under development …

Haven’t seen much anti Superstar here. I’d recommend them 100% to everyone; sintered I found best for West Yorks. After 5-6 years only had one fail, with backing coming away- replaced instantly.

Tried Joes but it didn’t work very well while Stans has been great. So good value then ; but cheaper branded version sounds interesting. I’ll be sure to search the STW massive collective brain when I need more.

My XX that came with the Nerve has lasted as long as 3 or more XT did on the Rock Springs & is even lighter. No marks on the titanium tho the biggest is alu and might be weak link (I’d heard this can be replaced but don’t know any more, anyone?)
So a shed load more but pays for itself over 2-3 yrs.

+1 for shoo-goo. My kids use it for coating their skateboard trainers. Local key & shoe shop sold me a tube for £5 which was good.

In my experience many dog owners do actually GAF, but like everyone, don’t always know of the issues.

It is bird nesting season Mar to August 1st and these sites are vunerable to distrurbance by dogs not under close control, especially threatened ground nesting species such as yellowhammer, lapwing, skylark and others.

I replaced the freehub body and bearing on my DT Swiss 1800s (that’s an onyx replacement part). Still get some play as described above even after re tightening end nuts again and again.

Maybe I need this on the bearing to axle faces too:

“Loctite 270 Stud ‘n’ Bearing Fit is a high strength, general purpose threadlocker with a breakaway torque of 33Nm. Suitable for all metal fasteners, including stainless steel, aluminium, plated surfaces and chrome-free coatings it tolerates slight contaminations of industrial oils. It is ideal for permanently locking studs on engine blocks and pump housings and only to be used if regular removal for maintenance is not required”

^ it is hard to tell when static but it is really handy. I keep it simple and just put on (set to 3) uphill & on flats and off for bumpy descents . It’s a RP23 TF tuned on Canyon Nerve

I have had that on one saddle , Like you say really annoying and it was frustrating to try find the problem. It wasn’t the clamp or the bolt. After a while I tried spraying some lube into the rail insert fixings on the saddle moulding; that made it go away.