Ireland deserve the 6N on how they’ve played. Would massive lol if France win!!!

BOD aside, have they really played any better than england?

If both sides play well, i’m sad to say i think wales would win. Long may they not, well at least another 15 minutes anyway.

Jump in the air when you’re about to get tackled and it’s penalty? I’ll have to try that next time i play 😉

Inbred456 – Member
Don’t use postmix. It makes the post too rigid and so susceptible to snapping when it weakens with age. Then you have to try and dig the bugger out to replace it. I use broken bricks and rubble, this allows the post to give a little bit but also the water can drain away if we ever get dry day. I used 4 x 3 inch posts. No sign of movement yet after 2 yrs. Easy to dig the rubble out to replace the post if it does snap.

I too had heard similar point along these lines – when concreted in ground water can sit on the top surface causing the post to rot at that point. Was advised rammed earth for the posts was better as free draining – but the rubble would in theory have a similar function.

Might be bolx mind.

IMO if you want to insulate between/beneath the joists then you should have the ventilation. But as i mentioned, looking at the photos you have cross members that would potentially stop the ventilation running from high to low which is the principle used with a house roof.

As mentioned by science and picked up on by yourself a warm roof, insulation on top of the ply is technically better however you still need to provide a vapour control layer somewhere between your ceiling finish and the insulation – standard manufacturers details general have a vcl on top of the plywood before the insulation and finish. This option is more reliant on workmanship however as there is no ventilation to get rid of any moisture that could get through a poorly installed vcl.

If you put holes make sure you have adequate protection from wind driven rain and drips to stop water tracking back along the soffit into the roof void.

Just want to qualify i only ever deal with the theory of these kind of things, the practical side……..there’s usually a man for that 😳

Sorry to hear, but as above really, go to the vets.

They can be a bit of a high maintenance breed all told – touch wood we’ve not had an issue with the mouth, however, we’re no strangers anal glands/ears and the odd viral infection.

Just you try and keep that mouth dry! 😉

Edit: removed as on reflection was probably too much.

Just to clarify having read through the above.

The celotex bonded to ply is for placing on top of joists to for a warm roof with a roof finish on top which does not need ventilation. You cannot simply stick the ‘celotex’ to the underside of the ply you have installed already.

All insulations that have a a rigid sarking board over need to have 50mm void ventilated at eaves and ridge, otherwise you are asking for trouble with condensation which in this case warm moist air has travelled up the void, got cold, condensed and is now running down the roof.

Usually celotex joints in boards are butted tight together and sealed with a foil tape to create a vapour control layer. You have nothing at present stopping moist air reaching the cold side of the insulation.

Unfortunately looking at the photos you appear to have purlins up against the underside of the ply that would stop being able to effectively vent void.

Otherwise in simple terms you could have had a continuous nominal 10mm gap top and bottom – with a bit of insect mesh to stop critters getting in and making your cave their own.

Without going into condensation / classification or useage there is insufficient source in the building to create that amount of “condensation”

Unless of course the OP was working in there with the door closed – humans, especially when working physically, create a fair bit of moisture.

All my comments are based on what would need to be done on a home, but it’s little consolation if stuff in the cave gets knackered.

Blazin-saddles – Member
replacing the floor wholesale with ply is not a bad idea per se, but you might struggle to get enough support around the edges of the room without additional joists or nogs.

POSTED 3 MINUTES AGO # REPORT-POST

And after all, in the original OP he did have concerns over his noggin…………………….i’ll get my coat.

mrben100 – Member
Personally i would say yes – depending on joist centres i would say minimum 18mm for 400mm-ish centres and 22mm for 600mm centres, sure someone will come along to confirm.

Personally i would say yes – depending on joist centres i would say minimum 18mm for 400mm-ish centres and 22mm for 600mm centres, sure someone will come along to confirm.

Oh and i personally wouldn’t want to go any thinner than 15mm ply – i certainly wouldn’t specify less than that.

Edit: ignore the majority of what i’ve put, if you haven’t already, just seen you have existing floor boards! That teach me to read 😳

I presume you mean putting the tile backer board onto a structural board, not sure 6mm alone will span between joists – but happily proven wrong. No more ply – is also meant to be an alternative to……well ply.

Also at work we tend to specify an anti-fracture membrane that goes into the tile adhesive, something like ditra mat or norcos. Probably belt and braces but when your specifying stuff i always err on the side of caution.

Edit: righog seems to be indicating my concerns over 6mm of anything really.

busydog – Member
mrben100–what kind of dog is that?

POSTED 4 HOURS AGO # REPORT-POST

Apologies, i’m a lunchtime/evening lurker.

Its an italian spinone.

Any excuse

Edit: sorry for massive pic

Have you considered from the Trek Fuel Ex range?

I love them and I don’t care who knows it. Sorry, I’ll get my coat.

Now be honest, has anyone actually considered ‘What will STW think’ whilst making a purchase/build etc?

Edit: I have a Trek and a C456 so generally assume hated all-round. 😳

Stay the same weight and increase power/stamina? (slight tangent).

Some people lose weight at expense of power.

You may stay the same weight but drop body fat percentage.

All in all very ambiguous/rubbish/non-advice sorry.

Bit late to the party, but, V12 Mags is all I’ve ever used.

That said they are better than everything else! 😉

We’ve got a dog, he smells like a dog (and that’s on a good day), you lot are weird.

Thread useless without pics! 😀

So am I right in thinking – all trolls are nobs but not all nobs are trolls?

Edit: you obviously haven’t seen my new phone because it is awesome actually ❗ being able to speak to any location in the world sat on my arse at home.

Edit edit: so many i didnt know where to stop

55378008 was also one of our favourites

Trek fuel ex8 XL – 26″
Large c456 – 26″

Edit: ninja edit

Ahem………..Highpath – reduced service but still doing pedal thread repairs

EDIT: probably would have been easier to reference highpath direct, but wanted to show thread as was happy with result.

So what tape do people use?

Building up my first bike a c456 matte – prob a silly question, but i presume it still suffers from cable rub 😳

Check out pauls cycles – might be “cheap” if they’ve got your size and dont mind 2013 model

Would be an interesting conveyance plan having a separate dwelling in someone else’s back garden with no means of access. Especially if selling on at a later date.

Your looking at Building Regs which more often than not apply even when you don’t need planning permission. (there are however exceptions)

Lazy link:

Planning Portal: Do I Need Permission[/url]

Some things allowed under permitted development………………..yours however won’t be.

BlindMelon – Member
……..New build will sometimes be a solid sheet material and generally a 75mm thick sheet in a 100mm so a clear 50mm residual cavity remains between the insulation and outer leaf cavity so air can circulate and the cavity is not bridged……………

FTFY

And even then generally only when in geographically severe exposure zones 3 or 4 for rain penetration where a cavity is required. Otherwise full fill mineral wool type insulation is used as it’s cheaper and less easy to mess installation up (but not impossible) i.e. cock up rigid insulation installation and it potentially falls bridging the cavity etc.

Look at document by BRE Press: Thermal Insulation : Avoiding Risks

Off on a tangent to the OP there as relates to new build sorry.

Also ventilation is key, sometimes adding insulations can exacerbate condensation issues. Get a man in (as is looks like your intending)!

Just finished of roast comprising carrots, peas, yorkshires, roasties and pork that has been cooking in the slow cooker since about 8 o’clock this morning.

Now going to finish it off with homemade rice pudding with copious amounts of nutmeg

I struggle with long sentences i would imagine the cab is causing turbulence meaning the air isn’t flowing “smoothly” over the trailer. An aeroplane wing would not have this problem.

Apologies if any else has already written this.

Edit: therefore there would be a relative increase of pressure to the outside

Probably a silly off on a tangent question, but how would going 1x……..reduce chain suck? Not be facetious.

Holy thread resurrection…….

Drac – Moderator
He’s replacing doors not doing a conversion.

What if the door he is replacing is already a fire door and there are no first floor windows that can be considered egress?

In the building regs, even when just replacing stuff, the idea on existing properties is to be at least, no less compliant than it was previously.

Edit: i do love the certainty, myself include, people have in their own comments based on very little information from the op, i love STW 🙂

Sounds like something must be possible without having to totally rebuild the house so at least it’s not a waster of his time.

This………however as above mentioned the shear time and buggeration factor would be immense for someone to actually do it.

Hence my initial point

If there chance is you are going to ultimately take the roof trusses out, why not just have attic trusses designed by a truss manufacturer.

wrightyson – Member
…………….. Main problem I see is getting the bearing required for new floor joists at the wall plate

Not to mention any trimming of the ceiling (to be floor) joists to take the head of your new stair – these would likely cut through the bottom chords of the existing trusses so might need lots of strengthening whist in-situ.

Do it right first off (if economically viable) short term pain versus long protracted death.

It might be, but i haven’t come across it before.

The manufacturers usually design to such tight tolerances that they are only guaranteed if the trusses are manufactured off site and have their quality control. Some might though so could be worth asking.

Usually though trusses have cross bracing diagonal timbers, often on the underside of the rafters to stop racking (collapsing like dominoes), not sure the practicality or sequencing of how it would work, installing type one then removing the other.

Ultimately it is an engineer either the truss manufacturer or your friend. Buidling control are going to want to see calculations to prove the design will work and sign it off.

Generally wouldn’t need fire doors for that.

If there chance is you are going to ultimately take the roof trusses out, why not just have attic trusses designed by a truss manufacturer.

Being 90’s, i assume they are modern trusses with gangnail plates as opposed to created in-situ with separate members and bolted with toothed plated connectors. Modifying of the former is likely to be costly the latter maybe not so.

The likelihood is an engineer would want a ridge beam spanning between the gables and purlins. Collars tend to pull the roof down wanting to force the roof apart at the eaves, where as a ridge beam fixes the “apex”.

Look at the trada span tables which will give you an idea of the member sizes likely to be required.

Re mobile site loading, try a different web browser – a number of newer websites made with wordpress etc do not display properly on older versions on internet explorer.

If you haven’t already upgrade to IE9 or google chrome etc.

May help, I know it did on my work computer as I was having the same issue with our own company website and I was running IE8 – did the above and now displays fine.

Holy thread resurrection batman!

Just thought i’d update.

Finally got round to sending the crank to highpath at the start of the week.

Crank back today re-threaded and ready for action.

£25 for the repair and £5 for postage – certainly cheaper than new cranks.

Buy vegetarian sausages?

I am assuming they have some kind of vegetables in?

PITA….isn’t that what you should be putting it in….

(I’ll get my coat)