Kaesae was THE all-knowing bearing master but he got banned for also being a complete mentalist and a tit.

He'll be reading this from bike thief heaven and wishing he could impart his bearing wisdom.

Kaesae would know the answer.

RIP Kaesae :-)

some token fruit thing…

is called a physalis.

Not a syphilis. That's something different.

Banshee / Mythic Spitfire :-)

The Afan Lodge is great.

don't contact the seller with bevies of questions

I'm just asking him the sort of questions I would ask if I was interested in buying it.

I didn't feel that "What???" was an adequate response to my question about the fork servicing so I've probed him further and will post up his answer if I get one.

I asked him a few questions.

What year is the frame? – "Erm not sure about 4 years old"
How much fork travel? – "About 100mm"
How often have the forks been serviced – "What???"
Can you tell me what other parts are fitted e.g. hubs / rims / drivetrain etc – no response

They have a little shop in a unit in Southport. They were very helpful when I bought some pedals from the ebay store then had to pop in and change them.

It's a common issue. It's the reason you can't use that combination of fork / rotors.

That front tyre is pointing the wrong way. They have a (very small) direction arrow on them.

You need to put something in the hole that's about the same diameter as the pin and whack it with a hammer until it pushes out far enough to swap the levers (but not all the way out). I think my remote kit came with a little pin that I used for that purpose.

I fitted the remote kit to my non-remote Joplin and it's dead easy. The instructions are really crap though so you might have to use common sense instead.

In that case, I stand corrected (said the man in the orthopaedic shoes).

I've just got some Crossmax SXs. The rear are QR and I don't think you can change to bolt through.

I'm running an 11-34 cassette on mine with a Saint rear mech (with a 22/36 up front), and I haven't noticed any issues with this combination. I'm not running the chain particularly slack, either.

Same here – seems fine.

UST tyres will be a much tighter fit. I fitted some yesterday to my new Crossmax SX wheels – it took bloody ages and I broke a number of fingers.

Not that big – I've got a 2.25 and its actual width is about 2.13in.

Noticably narrower and smaller in volume than the 2.25 Maxxis Ardent & Advantages I had on previously.

I think my 183mm floating rotor is about 5-6g lighter than the solid one I had before. So not a lot!

I think Kaesae is back, with a new user name!

I've got one of the NC-17 ones. You need a HUGE (12mm) allen key to fit it (just so you know!).

Get a Spitfire!!!

Mine is 29lbs and a bit.

I had a 70mm on mine with low rise 710mm bars and it was perfect.

It should be there!!

Make sure you have the valve the right way up when connecting and disconnecting the pump (i.e. turn the bike upside down to do the -ive chamber), then you won't lose so much each time.

Have you checked that the cassette is done up tight? Mine made a clonking noise when it worked loose once.

Mine's on the right too

Lactic – Member

Careful with the topcap screw, it's made of an aluminium/cheese alloy and very easy to overtighten and snap.

If it came with a 1.5" reducer headset it will have a stainless bolt. (Mmmbop has a 1.5" head tube.)

What's wrong with "3-in-one" silicone spray lube from B&Q?

So if you start near that chapel, that's the pony path? I thought the pony path was from the north but thought we had gone up from the south?!

Me and a mate went up last weekend. We followed the route in a Bikefax book which started by the Mary Jones chapel, the at the summit turned back and came down again.

It's the first time of ridden it so was wondering if anyone knows how this route compares to others…?

With mine I've just got the normal cloth rim tape that you use with tubes, then the BMX inner tube.

I've got 317 rims and I'm running them ghetto tubeless with non-UST tyres (Maxxis Advantage & Ardent). No problems so far. You'll find with Kenda tyres that it's not so much the looseness of the tyres that's the problem, it's the porous sidewalls which will piss sealant out for ages before they seal. Maxxis tyres seal immediately using CO2.

I've got some 2.25 Maxxis and have previously used 2.1 Nevegals. The Maxxis are a bit fatter, but not a lot.

And of course the performance bearings will be packed with super duper man-grease.

Where's he gone anyway??!

Longish story – will explain all when I get your message!

Look at the listing if you haven't already (there's only one on there so you'll find it!) then do the 'contact seller' thing so we can discuss ;-)

I've got a brand new green 16" Mmmbop frame on ebay at the mo. Headset included :-)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Commencal-Meta-5-5-bike-frame-Sz-Mdm-18-Fully-serviced-/140410600515?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item20b11fbc43

Kaesae's selling his cracked Meta frame on ebay. Strangely the listing doesn't mention any cracks! Hmmmm.

forge197 – Member

geetee1972 – the lateral movement is supposed to be addressed/improved on the 4 but we will see after it's been in use for a bit. I can imagine the lateral movement could be annoying and I'll be checking for that it's tight out the box.

You'll find there will still be a bit of play straight out of the box, but not as much as with a Joplin 3. I've been using mine for a couple of months now and this slight play hasn't got any worse. I'm surprised they still can't make one with no side to side play at all though – I had two i900s which had no play whatsoever (unfortunately that was their only good point as they were terrible in all other respects).