Loctite 243? I wouldn’t use Araldite if you want to remove it again.

Here we go again! Just picked up this beast. Not a Record, but of the same era and similar weight. I was told it came from the same factory which made Fortis vices in Coventry, which was bombed in WW2 – so this is at least 80 years old. Not sure if I’ll keep it as it is, or tart it up. I think I need to reinforce my bench.

That wildcat thing – £25 for a bit of molded plastic?!

How about this – and you can take it out and put a water bottle instead. Possibly not niche enough or expensive enough for some though.

If you get it to being rideable, maybe try your luck at £2k – though if the forks are shagged then that’s £500 off straight away. You might be lucky to get £1600 even if the forks are ok. I got mine in better nick but lower spec for £1700, but that was a few years back before prices went through the roof. Probably not worth splitting in your case if a lot of the parts are well used.

I’ve a set of nice 120mm straight steerer Rebas which I’ve not got round to advertising just yet. Msg if interested.

Doesn’t lock, but there’s quite a lot of friction in the pivot so it won’t open by itself.

A small key organiser with a knife for opening boxes and packages. Had a bit of fun learning about quenching/tempering. This one is a bit rough. Once I’ve used it for a bit I might make a tidier one.

It’s mostly bending, not much axial force.

Hurrah! H7/n6 dropped together like a charm. Test loaded it up to 1 ton and it’s not shifting so happy with that.

Not good so far I’m afraid chaps. The theoretical temperature difference for free assembly was 75 degrees (H7/s6), but even with nearly 300 degrees, it wouldn’t go. Tried using the big press, which was a bad idea. The two parts galled together and needed 8 tons to separate (with a bang). Now back in the machine shop (again) to skim off the damage and a bit more off for less interference.

Been quite a learning experience this one! In particular, choose a lighter fit for stainless, and don’t try to press it!

Today’s the day. Parts have been solution annealed and re-treated to the correct condition, and then re-machined to get them back in tolerance – it was surprising how much they grew by. Luckily the spigots grew by more than the sockets, so we can still get the correct amount of interference. They’ve also gone a rather fetching colour – the parts which were H900 to start with have gone purple, and some which were H1150D have gone green.

Good reminder, thanks. I’d meant to replace our plate over the summer but forgot. Unfortunately the two M8 bolts which hold the baffle are heavily rusted up so it looks like some destruction will be required to get it out. I’m sure there’s a good case for stripping and cleaning yearly, and possibly replacing nuts and bolts before they get to this state! Maybe more expensive stoves are better designed and don’t wear out so quickly.

Yes, having spoken to the heat treatment people this morning, they do need to solution anneal at 1038 C and then do the fresh treatment from scratch at 1025F for 4 hours. We’ll have to wait and see how much they change shape by.

Thanks again all for sharing your knowledge!

Jingle, that’s great, thanks for putting in a way I can understand!

I knew I’d get some answers on here! Or at least some pointers towards more questions. What a widely knowledgeable bunch of people you are. Thanks :-)

Good point on the N2 delivery – I’ll get a bigger tub delivered to keep options open. Just been doing the RAMS for that.

We’d asked for H1025 as being a reasonable compromise between strength and toughness. H900 isn’t vastly different and we do have some margin on paper, but I’d much prefer a ductile failure than fracture.

What is it? It’s a tapered spigot joint which uses the collar with flats to hold the two halves together. The ribbed bits get bonded into tubes so we have a demountable, stiff, strong, modular tube thing for a secret purpose. The shrink fit is to capture the collar between two parts so it can rotate freely, without using circlips or fasteners to make it captive.

Brainflex – just a question of urgency, and wasting the N2.

I suspect as the chaps above suggest, worth doing properly and being late rather than risking ruining the lot. The material has been supplied in H900, so too brittle and needs to be annealed before retreating, hence the high temp.

Cheers,

Finally got round to actually starting this! Got a piece of O1 from Phoenix in Sheffield for £6.

The plane blades/rasps/files is an interesting idea, but when proper tooling stock is so cheap I’d rather skip the extra steps of annealing and flattening. Perhaps for the next project – I think a chunky knife with some of the file texture left on could look good.

Hmm. I’ve been through that – uninstall and delete the pairing off both devices, but still won’t work on the old phone.

Not really found anything else I need and trying to avoid spending on frivolous smart stuff.

Not browsing Amazon looking for ‘bargains’ would be a good start. I’d pay substantially over the odds to avoid giving any money to Bezos.

Thanks for the tips. Looking forward to getting stuck in now the nights are drawing in…

Good stuff, thanks :-)

The only circular saw blades I have are a lot thinner than that, and won’t files will be pretty hard to start with? Could I anneal a file to start, and then re-harden once I’ve shaped and drilled it?

I think Pete O’Donovan sold it a few years back, and it went downhill very rapidly after that. They used to make exceptionally good mountaineering gear, but now it’s just a brand which gets stuck on cheap chinese tat.

retro83 – I’m afraid I couldn’t face moving it away from the fence. Hopefully won’t need to get down that side of it too often. Just waiting for the wildlife to arrive now!

I took a massive hit at the start of the corona bollocks (just over 20% loss around April)….however, I’m back up at over 13% where I was in March.

Which funds are they, out of interest? I also saw a 20% hit at the bottom, and it’s just about back up to net zero now, and that’s with a reasonable amount of topping up after the lowest point. Vanguard Lifestrategy btw.

Mboy, I’d agree with the others – if the risk of losing 10% of £2k frightened you, surely the only option would be pay down the mortgage and share your good fortune with your gf. My partner and I are very well matched on income and outgoings so 50:50 works fine. If I had that much of a surplus and she had none, I don’t think I’d feel good about sticking to 50:50.

Hmm. My 4-jaw is a bit too big for that unfortauntely – using the jaws internally the minimum bore would be about 3″. For the cassettes I just bolted them to a block of wood and then adjusted the chuck to get it concentric and square.

I have a set of V6s. They are quite heavy but seem well made and the ratchet is suitably clicky. Their customer service is pretty poor/rude and they took an age to arrive. I like the idea of well priced UK made stuff, but I’d be hesitent to use them again based on attitude. I have some Bitex hubs as well which are lighter, similar price and come from a company who is nicer to deal with.

I’m in Sheffield. I’ve machined 1.8mm out of the back of two cassettes on my lathe and they both seem to work quite happily. Depending on the hub it might be getting a bit close to the spokes. I would not describe myself as a trusted machine shop though!

Not exactly sure how I’d mount a freehub in the 4-jaw without damaging it, but happy to have a go!

Dug a hole at the weekend and just waiting for the liner to turn up. Think I’ve managed to scavenge some old carpet off freecycle to line it with. Had to bank the edges up a bit as the natural water table is stopping me digging it any deeper!

Yes, I know the fence is a state. I don’t care.

I’ve not read all the details of exactly what you need, but if you want some standard end caps modifying, let me know. Happy to shave a bit off on my lathe. Need to justify its massive presence in my garage occasionally!

Made some spacers to run a QR-only front hub on 12mm recently, using some very dubious thin-section bearings…

Looks like the seller cancelled the auction somehow. Wonder if all the enquiries about frame number got him rattled…?

Not sure, the listing says ‘no visible damage’, which is strictly correct. Not sure the dishonest ‘shelved a few years ago’ comment would warrant an immediate refund. Unless the buyer pulls the stickers off, they’ll probably not know.

We could just bid it up and win the item? Or you could give the seller a call at work, persuade him to do the right thing?

Feel sorry for whoever wins this. Here’s the serial of the original listing for the cracked frame.

Original seller has confirmed this is the same one and t4haus was the buyer.

I am both those things! I doubt you’d be able to make something in plastic that would work, although if you have a picture please do post it up. The seat hangers I’ve seen tend to be an M6 bolt with a big washer at either end, so I might have got the wrong end of the stick. ‘3D printing’ (they prefer to call it additive manufacture) in metal would be strong enough but probably cost more than the canoe itself.

It stopped working after a particularly heavy rain storm, so hopefully it’s just something needing drying out.

Thanks all – steveh, I’m also in Sheffield! I’ll have a go at listening to them first but might give you a shout if that’s no good, cheers!

I don’t think carbon will necessarily beat alloy on weight unless you’re spending an awful lot. They just look cool and are a lot stiffer. There were some Prime alloy wheels on CRC recently, ~£350 and about 1400g. Attacquer?

They’re not expensive but if the life’s no better than alu, it’s probably not worth the weight penalty. Hmm.

Thanks all, some helpful tips there. I’ve done a reasonable amount of diy carpentry/joinery but nothing on green wood before. Happy cutting joints etc. I was aiming for as light a structure as I could get away with, rather than having something big and chunky, but I do want it to stay straight!
Cheers,