Well, that’s not true, the times I have been caught out at my parents house (which involves a steep hill, with sharp corners) with almost a ft of snow I’ve driven in/out.

And we’re getting into a different argument, winter tyres with different rubber compounds and slightly more agressive tread to work in lower temperatures, Vs snow tyres designed to actualy work in snow which is a bit extream for our temperate climate.

Seems to me we are approaching the “I can drive anything you can drive with my normal tyres” argument. Maybe the snow where you live is more grippy?

The fact is that Winter tyres are miles better in snow than normal tyres (and no I’m not talking about studded tyres) just ordinary Winter tyres with the snowflake symbol. The difference in traction and grip is massive and anyone who actually tries them would tend to agree. Makes winter driving so much easier and safer, but each to their own.

For me it was the geometry that swung it. Enduro has the same wheelbase as the Stumpy, but much shorter chain stays. For me that suggests it should be more agile, although obviously there are other parameters to consider. But I have no doubt that the Stumpy should be a better climber and probably a better all-round compromise for most riders. If speed was my number one priority I would have chosen the Camber, but comfort is higher up my list.

doug – I think you probably have got the right idea with the Stumpy and you might even want to consider the Camber too if fast low tech climbing is a priority or if you are aiming at fast overall times on a XC ride. I’m more of a cruiser who likes to blast a bit harder on the downhill sections.

Will let you know if I am right when I actually get to ride the thing!

Don’t stock brake mounts but stock brakes that come without mounts (Shimano) yeah why would I expect them to stock them?!

Our expectations of Evans are obviously a bit different. Yours are optimistic and mine are realistic 😉

i never said tyres produce downforce – but the do produce GRIP – and heat produces GRIP and therefore my comments about tyre size/depth/diameter and the non-use of the current monsoon tyre.

But wet tyres do not need heat to generate grip. In fact they really do not like running hot at all. If the priority was to reduce aquaplaning, narrower tyres would be the answer. The main problem with wet running in F1 is the amount of power going through the wide rear tyres only and the cars are very light at low speed. Downforce helps to reduce aquaplaning at higher speeds up to a point.

I’m hoping he saw it coming and ducked or lent to his right as much as he could whilst strapped in.

They are strapped in so tight, there is no chance of ducking out of the way! They can lean their head a little, but that’s about all. It’s always been an issue with open cockpit cars. At least they sit much lower down than they used to – just compare the seating position of a modern F1 car v 80’s F1 car. I expect he did see it coming, but could do very little about it!

If your wife could work in Banbury, then you would be better off living in Leamington to be honest. I would anyway. Banbury is really nothing special at all. Although it does depend a lot on whether you actually want to live in the town or in a surrounding village. If the latter then the nearby villages are actually very nice.

That’s encouraging thanks! Really looking forward to riding this beast. I don’t mind if it’s a bit slower on the climbs as long as it gets up there eventually. I do hope it’s as agile as they say 🙂

I cant understand that some people think a brake mount is a ‘special product’ and that it wouldnt be stocked.

I can’t understand why some people (you) would expect Evans to stock parts like that. Occasionally they do surprise me, but It is simply not their business model.

If she really gets into photography, she will soon want a DSLR anyway. Always good to have a decent compact too though.

didnt they stop using the monsoon tyre because quite franks the f1 cars could not really run on them as they generated no heat and no downforce.

Unlike slicks, wet tyres in the wet don’t really generate much heat at all and are designed to provide grip at low temperature in the wet – in fact when the track starts to dry out and they do start generating significant heat, they very quickly disintegrate. Like within 1 lap they can be history.

Tyres don’t generate any downforce!

If it’d been his head first then the car

…then he would have been killed instantly at that speed. It must have been a secondary impact or a very shallow angle glancing blow

1) spare set of 16″ steel rims and 16″ 55 tyres and I swap them over at home or…
2) get a garage to swap 17″ summers for 17″ 45 winters on OEM rims at £40 a go?

Option 1 would be the best solution for performance, but 17″ winter tyres are pretty damn good too. We had 17″ Conti WinterContacts on our Volvo V50 and it easily coped with everything that UK winter could throw at it. We live out in the sticks too where the gritters rarely go. Even 18″ and 19″ low profile winter tyres are excellent these days.

I lived in a village a couple of miles outside Banbury for quite a few years and still live fairly close now (Silverstone) but rarely ever go there. That might give you an idea of how interesting it is! In short it’s a really boring town, but has improved slightly in recent years. The surrounding area is quite nice though – rolling countryside, roads not too busy. There are worse places to live, but also better ones!

Where do you both work? It might help with alternative suggestions. For example Leamington Spa is a LOT nicer, but obviously a fair bit North.

Interesting stuff. Pretty good future predictions at the end too!

As an update, in the end I went the other way and bought an Enduro Carbon Expert 29! What sold it for me was the shorter chain stays. Although I don’t really need the extra travel, I do like a plush ride and I decided the Camber would probably be a bit too XC racey for my taste. I would have certainly gone for the Stumpy had it had the same short chain stays as the Enduro, but I’m sure I can live with the slight weight penalty and slacker geometry on the climbs. I was actually surprised at reviews of the Enduro, it appears to be a better all rounder than I expected given its travel.

Hopefully it should arrive later this week so will report back after a ride. I doubt I’ll have any complaints on the downhills 🙂

Oh and thanks again everyone who responded. It was really helpful

Obviously be careful not to bounce the suspension otherwise it will read too much sag.

I always use the spray on version if there is ANY type of thermal lining – just not worth the risk of damaging the lining. I only use the wash-in version on shell jackets.

If you always wash with Techwash, you don’t usually need to re-apply proofing. After washing, just test out the water proofing and only spray if it needs it i.e. doesn’t bead up when wetted.

Phil – that’s a bit of a worry! Were you just riding along or competing at the Red Bull Rampage? I know some guys who are very hard on their bikes and tend to suffer cracked stays etc. But then they are pushing their bikes to the limit i.e. taking big jumps and drops and I mean big. Lightweight trail bikes can only take so much.

And for the record- at least two of my local ‘proper’ shops had the right mount in stock- just none were open on a Sunday.

My experience of Evans:-

1. Evans is not really a ‘proper’ specialist bike shop. They are a high street retailer aiming mostly at the mass market, which I’m afraid does not stretch to stocking post-post brake mounts! I would have considered it a very long shot at best.

2. The Evans in Milton Keynes is actually quite good and some of their staff are quite knowledgeable (although haven’t been in for a while). If you are looking for more obvious items like a pair of gloves, sunnies, tubes, cables etc. then they do tend to have reasonable stock. Been very handy for me on occasion. For example they had brake pads in stock for my Formula Oros one time when I got caught short ahead of a ride. I was pleasantly surprised.

3. At least they are actually open on a Sunday, so that’s better than most “proper” bike shops.

I agree on them probably being better in winter

Only probably? It is obvious you have never tried them. It’s true that they are not great in the summer but you would only notice if you were driving right on the limit. In the snow however, you immediately notice that you can actually drive at all!

The UK is quite backward compared to most of Europe and North America when it comes to winter driving. Winter tyres are considered the norm or even a legal requirement in many countries.

RS Pike would be the obvious choice. Seems to work perfectly to beef up the front end of lightweight trail bikes.

Oh, so do the more expensive helmets protect you better than a cheap one?

Some do, some don’t. Do your own research, make your own choice. I don’t spend the money unless I can see real benefits and in some cases there are. Been skiing, biking for a long time and head protection has always been a priority for me so I make the effort to research and then buy what I believe is the best option. Unfortunately, I have never found a budget helmet that meets ALL my requirements i.e. safety, quality, fit, detailing etc, etc.

Your Carrera Edge does look very good for the price, but it doesn’t have MIPS for a start, which I think is worth having, and it’s not exactly cutting edge light either. If money was no object, there are better helmets out there, hence my comment about buying the best you can afford. That doesn’t mean chucking money at it for the sake of it as you wrongly presume.

I would have thought your Yeti ASR5 would be ideal as a trail bike + occasional 24hr racer? Not sure what you are expecting to gain by swapping it? Sure you could go more XC race oriented and of course 29er, but everything is a compromise.

Out of your list, the Spec. Camber looks like a good compromise. I was seriously considering the Carbon Evo version as my next trail bike (no racing required for me). I could easily imagine racing a Camber long distance on fairly technical trails.

Whatever you use its going to surely offer more protection than an 11 year old helmet that you are wearing now.

Still no reason not to buy the best protection you can afford.

I’m also 6’1″ and thought the Large was plenty roomy enough for my taste. Also the 2015 Large Stumpy Evo’s come with a 75 mm stem. The XL has a 90 mm. Maybe you have longer arms? I never even gave the XL a moment’s thought.

Winter tyres are night and day better in snow or freezing cold or wet conditions. A 2 wheel drive car on decent winter tyres will be far more effective than a 4×4 on normal summer tyres.

Do fit them on all 4 corners unless you really want to have a crash.

As for brand recommendations, I’ve found Continental and Nokian to be very good, but all the well known brands offer decent Winter tyre options and in any case will be miles better than any summer tyre. All-season tyres are an option too, but inevitably a bit of a compromise. Personally I prefer running 2 sets of summer/winter tyres.

I’ve been unable to ride much since stepping into parenthood. Has given me a greater perspective on life though, and I appreciate any bike/running time more than ever.

Exactly my experience too! My eldest daughter has just started school now, so just starting to get into riding again. I’ll probably only get 2 shortish rides in per week, but I’ll make sure they count!

Just ordered a POC Trabec. No expense spared for the old noggin! My experience of POC ski helmets has been exceptional so I’m hoping the bike helmet will be of the same quality. I tried on an IXS Trail too and it seemed like a nice option. That might be my second choice if the POC doesn’t fit me properly.

I’ve been off the bike for about 3 years (forced absence) and now absolutely itching to get back out there and ride. Before I was forced to stop riding I was getting a bit jaded, but now I really can’t wait to hit the trails again. Maybe a break was a good thing.

Officerfriendly – sounds to me it’s not the stiffness of the frame that’s the problem, probably the size?

Or even more likely – weight. Frame stiffness is generally a plus point, but there is always a trade off between weight and stiffness. At 45 kg you would almost certainly want that trade-off to be toward a lighter frame unless you were hucking off big stuff.

As above, report the incident to the Police and they will probably advise you of next steps anyway. A trip to A&E is a good idea, especially if you banged your head.

chakaping – errm… 380 mm unsagged which is possibly a WR?

yorky – I think the difference with carbon frames is that they have a decent amount of section which favours carbon design. I’m much less convinced about small diameter carbon tubes subjected to bending loads i.e. handlebars.

I’m amazed that people are still ignorant enough to think that aluminium is somehow different…

Maybe I am just ignorant as you say, but in the 20 odd years I’ve been a chartered mech eng and worked extensively with both materials, I’ve seen a lot more broken carbon bits than alloy. Also chatting with my LBS, so have they! The thing is that alloy bars are a lot easier to produce reliably and consistently than carbon ones. Carbon manufacture is more labour intensive and prone to error. Your choice at the end of the day, hope you don’t have a failure.

yorky – well you know how unpredictable carbon can be. Only needs a bad layup or even a small chip/defect in the wrong place. Don’t think I would ever risk running a carbon bar on my own bike, although I have just bought a carbon framed bike!

Carbon bars are plain scary. Ultra-lightweight alloy ones are a close second. For me it’s not a part of the bike where weight saving is a priority at all.

On the face plate?

Yes it was on the face plate, but I think the crack on mine initiated from one of the clamp screw recesses and I spotted it before it actually broke – it started creaking mid ride and I stopped to check. Was torqued up correctly too. The one in that picture looks like maybe due to over tightening?

At least that kind of failure is not catastrophic in that the bars are still attached to the bike. Much worse when the bar snaps!

Out of genuine interest, why would an alu product have a “lifespan”?

Because alu suffers from fatigue over repeated usage. Eventually it will crack and ultimately fail.

I once had a stem clamp crack (Thomson one as well) but luckily I spotted it before it actually broke. Always a good idea to carefully examine your bars and stem regularly, looking for fatigue cracks. Also reminds me to change the bars on my older bike as asking for trouble after 5+ years use. I’m certainly not a weight weenie when it comes to bars and stem!

Oops, sorry forgot to add that I’m glad you lived to tell the tale!

cloudnine – the original Belter only had a rear brake, but all the new spec ones have both front and rear. Just ordered one for our 5 year old daughter.