Update: after posting on facebook they responded asking me to email (which I’d already done) so I sent another, expecting a reply. Amazingly still no response to my email and no refund so I’ve opened a dispute in PayPal. They apologised on fb saying they were very busy, but this is poor. They won’t see any more of my money :(

May try a gentle prod via Facebook and see if that illicits a response.

but getting a refund out of them was like getting blood out of a stone.

Hmmmm. This is annoying when they keep popping up on my fb feed telling me I could have used it for 30 days and sent it back at no cost and swapped it for a round one! The only reason I sent it back is because the oval ring wouldn’t clear the chainstays on my frame :-(

According to the tracking they received it on the 24th but no communication or sign of money yet. Will give them a bit longer as I suppose they could be busy…

At least I payed with Paypal and sent it tracked/signed for. I should have a chance of a refund if they don’t get back to me. I’m glad I didn’t order the replacement up front now (I needed a round, not oval ring) – it was the very slow comm’s when I enquired about return that made me cautious. Hopefully they’ll come good as the ring was lovely quality.

EDIT – ordered direct from AB website, just for clarity.

Oh dear… :-(

Thanks. I’ll sit tight for a few more days before I get the Bombers out.

Do it. Take every opportunity whilst you can!

Don’t be concerned as it’s quite normal, you just notice it more when the derailleur isn’t there to take up the slight variations in tension. It occurs mainly due to very slight eccentricity in chainrings/sprocket. This isn’t an indication of poor quality.

Find the tight spot and set the chain tension so you don’t feel it binding when you rotate the crank (you want a small amount of slack in the chain at the tight spot, but not too much), then you’ll be good to go.

KCNC SC Bone scandium bar is what I run on my rigid 29er. Definitely feel some flex, in fact I removed it from my front sus hardtail and fitted a carbon bar (Truvativ Noir) as wanted something a bit more solid feeling. Like it on the rigid. It’s not silver though, however it is light and good value. I find it a pretty comfy shape too.

http://clee-cycles.co.uk/P15102/product

This sounds like damage to me, most likely inflicted inadvertently. Think about recent rides, where your bike is stored, how it is transported etc. It could only take 1 unlucky impact or incident to cause a failure, and cost has nothing to do with it. I’d just crack on and replace them.

I’ve tacoed the rear wheel of my 29er in a similar way. Unfortunately it can happen if you’re unlucky.

Chuffed to bits with mine for the cash. Went up tubeless as well as Stans, seem tough and a good weight. Some people seem to criticise bearing life – I’ve had no problems.

Mine was creaking the other day. Fair enough, I thought, it has been on there for nearly 5 years with no attention (105 external cups). Took the cranks off and amazed to find bearings still feel really good, and abundance of original green Shimano grease still in evidence. Cleaned, greased threads, reassembled and now perfect. It must have done thousands of miles and I used to commute on it in all weathers – very impressed with it.

Try removing the freewheel, cleaning it up and regreasing the pawls? This worked in my 3.30 hub.

What he said – I’ve been eaten alive by insects at Afan on more than one occasion!

A lorry failed to stop at the entrance to the roundabout I was on and went into the side of me at about 20mph. It felt like I’d been thrown into a wall. I couldn’t get out of the car without assistance from the paramedics due to the pain in my back and was in pain for several weeks after. Reaching out with my right arm (for example to pick up the phone at work) often had me wincing in pain. Apparently I had whiplash. I didn’t get much compensation, even though I attended hospital. My recovery was aided by 8 physio sessions.

I don’t know how much people are getting for these injuries, but I didn’t get a lot – especially given the disruption to my work and life. I’d be interested to know.

650b unicycle?

If it was me I’d definitely take the rigid – think it’s more of a mile cruncher.

I think you’re being overly hard on yourself and are certainly not stupid – no shame in being concerned about your own safety and confidence in your bike is a big part of mtb. I must say that personally I would be more than happy to put my trust in a carbon frame, they’re extremely well developed now and have exceptionally good structural integrity.

If it fell out it wasn’t tight enough. You can sometimes get away with threading the same pedal through the back of the crank arm which can clear the threads. However, if the pedal fell out completely it’ll probably now continue to come loose, even if he can get it to thread back on.

Worth a try though.

Not normally my cup of tea this type of thing, but Jason Becker’s playing was just incredible, and although he “shreds” the playing is loaded with feel. I think what makes this so poignant for me is if you look into what has happened to the guy since.

We’re not going to hear back from the OP, are we?!

I would like an Arc X though so will keep an eye on the classifieds.

Didn’t mean to post the insulated one – they do a standard version too – you’ll get the gist…

I am pondering these for the reasons you describe. Unsure how much muck the folding spout will keep away, but looks like a good bottle anyway so will probably give one a try if I can get hold of one.

http://www.avexsport.com/water-bottles/22-oz-pecos-autospout-insulated-water-bottle-540.html

I have been reading Steve’s articles since I began mountain biking in the 90s. This is very sad news and a great loss to the cycling community.

Maybe do better with a cross tyre?

I think it likely will fit. I did mine recently for the first time, and I can tell you I had a hell of a time getting the piston seals in (is it these you are referring to?). But once I’d done the first caliper the second was easier.

If you really want comfort the KCNC Scandium bars are very “forgiving” and also very light.

I’ve got to ask the obvious question (and please don’t be offended), but you have been screwing the left pedal anti-clockwise to install it? I’ve seen this before on left-hand cranks as people often don’t realise or forget and try to install by screwing clockwise. If only the first few threads are mangled you could try threading the same pedal through the other side of the crank (ie through the hole from the back). This may clear the threads out if they’ve been damaged and then enable you to refit the pedal from the correct side. If you are certain the pedal threads are the cause of the problem then of course don’t try this as you will only damage the crank further. Good luck!

No.

+1 for carbon paste.

Rebas or SIDs all day long in my opinion.

http://www.hopetech.com/page.aspx?itemID=SPG144

I’d ebay them if I were you as I would suspect you’ll get at least £100 for them if in good order – potentially a bit more I would think. Good luck!

Just for balance I like the one I run up front on my 26 hardtail (pacestar evorun tubeless). Seems predictable and well balanced to me, but then I tend to run the fastest rolling tyres I can get away. As an XC tyre (which is what it is) I rate them – most of my riding is woody/rooty with little rock. I run it in the direction proposed on the tyre wall.

The problem with my Mono Minis is they refuse to die which would allow me to justify some new Tech 3s!

Great, pair ordered so thanks for the heads up. One thing, those that have ordered, was there a delay in receiving an order confirmation email? I’m probably being paranoid but haven’t received anything yet…

Wowzers! Does the V2 use the standard Hope battery?

Can this upgrade be done to all versions of the Vision 2? Mine is cosmetically different to the one in the blog pics. Very interested in this if it can be done.

Sorry, just re-read and you’ve already got rigids on there! D’oh! FWIW I suspect you will notice little difference although it may marginally speed up the steering.

Remember you’re looking to emulate the A-C of suspension forks when sagged, so depending on what forks your frame is designed around these will probably be fine. For example I put some 460mm rigid forks on my Dialled PA to try and recreate the handling of the bike with 120mm forks fitted – that’s a 26″ wheel. Hope that made sense!

Yes, I_Ache, my reasoning is the same as yours pretty much. At least I’ll be moving and raising the heart rate a bit.