Only going on my experience but try taking the pedals off. Pop some copper slip on the treads then tighten them tighter than tight. I used a seat post to extend my puney spanner. That did the job for me!

Hello

Sure is a nasty feeling when something turns up not as you expected – especially when the seller sounds like a proper piece of work.

Now, I am only going on what I see in your picture but I do have quite a bit of experience with carbon fibre as I’m an aerospace non-destructive test engineer for my sins and I asses supposed cracks in carbon fibre aircraft components (along with aluminium) quite often.

To be sure it’s cracked the first thing you will have to do is take the paint off in the area of interest. It may sound obvious but paint doesn’t flex nearly as well as carbon fibre and will look cracked even though all is ok below. If underneath it still looks cracked then the only way to tell how bad it is, is to use ultrasonics to see if the carbon lay-up has disbonded. Carbon fibre really doesn’t fail like metals do and what would be a crack for sure in metal may well not be in carbon.

Drop me an email if you need any more information. I would offer to take a look at it but you’re quite a way from me.

I know it’s probably little consolation but you look to have some great kit on that bike. Worst case situation is you get hold of a new front triangle and move the components across, or break and sell. If you tot the parts up you may not lose as much cash as you think.

Hope all this helps :wink:

they are 2012. Maybe bigger than the 2011s?

Quite possibly, the lowers look like a different design

I have the same problems with my Reba’s when running a 2.20 purgatory up front. Looking to get some Revelations at some point set up at 130mm so that should solve the issue. Love my Reba’s but the clearance is a pain. Mine are the 2011 model.

I wonder if the rims you run make a difference, narrow rims would cause a bigger tyre to blow up with a more rounded shape. So you could try a wider rim maybe?

What are the main differences between

Rock Shox Reba
Rock Shox Recon Gold
Rock Shox SID

Speaking from a 26″ wheel point of view

Recon – Entry level air fork, silver version with steel uppers, Gold with aluminium (anodised to that nice gold colour)

SID – Race dual air fork with light weight uppers and lowers, can be a little flexy

Reba – Mid range dual air fork that does the job well. This is what I use (26″)

Ragley Piglet, all the bike I ever need :wink:

My Piglet got it’s rebas from eBay. They’re RLT’s and came with a pump (that no longer works) for around £200 in pretty much as new condition.

I think On One have them new for as cheap as anywhere

I use A2Z – organic on the front, sintered on the back. They do the job and seem to be lasting pretty well

I’m afraid I may have overtightened the lockring myself in a quest to remove an annoying creaking noise a few months back. Doh!

My HT has a Purgatory on the front and a Captain on the back running the wrong way round. I use them year round with tubes and have not had a flat since! Mostly riding rocky Peak District and North Wales trails with 30psi in the Purg and 35-40psi in the rear. Works well for me!

Ok, I’ll be the first then!

Rapid rise… It just works so well. Yes you have to reprogram your brain a little but being able to drop a gear or two when powering up a hill out of the saddle is sooo worth it.

I never want to go back, if only they did a 10 speed.

Beto looks good and cheap. Anyone else?

You can have my half used bottle then, I only got it as it was the only stuff available at a time of need. I’m sick of reapplying it for it to only last 10 miles. I’m guessing it lasts longer for you?

Ok, so shoot me but I am the biggest fan of Bike Hut dry lube from (shhhh) Halfords. It keeps things smooth and quiet for ages and even copes well in the wet. Just wish I had some for my ride over the peaks today, instead of the terrible muck-off crap. May as well of used lard for all the good it did!

All my local riding is in Delamere, nothing better than being able to ride from your door step. My latest route takes me over Pale Heights and on into Primrose Woods. Great trails if you know where to look :wink:

Long Mynd Loop

Try this 8)

My Ragley Piglet is 30.9

My 2010 Rockhopper cracked at the bend on the chainstay. Didn’t think I had abused it that much. It was an eBay buy so no warranty claim but Spesh did offer a crash replacement at half price which was nice.

Hello

Got some reverb questions of my own so hope you don’t mind me butting in on your thread.

What does this Matchmaker MMX attachment thing mean for the remote. I just want one that bolts to the bars like anything else.

Also, do I get a left or right handed remote if I want it to sit under the bars out of the way. Am I right in thinking that the way it’s intended to go is on top, so you’d buy the opposite hand to what you need.

Cheers :D

I-Beam Bel Air for me

I loved my old Rockhopper, shame I broke it :cry:

The Piglet on a diversion at CyB

I’ve got a Dualit Espressivo, makes fantastic coffee for the money and is built like a tank. It doesn’t have any automatic features, you need to learn how to use it, but I like that sort of geekery. Make sure you get a good burr grinder to accompany it.

Yeah, that’s why they are on offer! :roll:

If you need a layback then get the Kore one

click

Just to echo the point above about layback posts. Don’t buy one of the SDG ones, they are made of the softest of soft cheese. Mine lasted one ride before the attachment point deformed out of shape and cracked. CRC refunded without me even sending the post back so it must be a known issue.

Stick to the inline version, no problem there.

I have been using an I-beam SDG Bel Air for the past year and love it. I was sick of bending the rails on normal saddles and so far the I-Beam one has put up with all the abuse I have thrown at it.

I am now looking to get an uppy downy post and am quite keen on the KS supernatural.

greeble – which version are you showing there as that doesn’t look like the Beam version KS are selling at the moment?

Memory Map (free version) in the iPhone, works a treat and you get free blocks of OS mapping

Hang on, just realised all my info is for Rebas. I’ll do some digging and see what I can find.

All the technical info for later model forks is on the SRAM website, but I’m not sure it covers the 2009 model. I will look.

In the mean time get watching youtube, there’s loads of usefull how too videos on there. Bare in mind that there is a lot in common between the 32mm rockshox forks.

Check your email, I’ll send you some useful attachments… :wink:

Memory Map. Works great with proper Ordanance Survey mapping, though you have to pay a bit for them. I like the ease at which you can import and export trail data and view on Google Earth et al.

For some reason Telemaster, I can’t access your profile.

My Piglet is 17 inch, I’m on the edge of Delamere forest if you want to try it out for size 8)

Nothing wrong with the new Piglet’s, I’ve been a happy owner for the last 6 months and ride it pretty hard. I run a 120mm reba on the front so can’t comment on how it would behave with 140’s.

It’s well built – you’re not going to have any problems with the frame breaking. The early ones that had cracks develop had the seat tube incorrectly reamed but they were isolated to a certain batch. No problems since as far as I know.

As for whether you want a Pig or a Piglet I’ve never ridden a Pig but I’m guessing it won’t climb quite as well and will build up a little heavier.

If you need any specific info just let me know.

FYI I’ve got 2011 Reba RLT’s on my Piglet running at 120mm. It’s a pretty easy job to drop the lowers and take the spacer out. From what I understand all recent Reba’s can run at 120 apart from the Race version as that uses SID lowers.

That looks interesting, anyone have any experience of this KORE KS one?

Riding the Esterel Mountains above Cannes 8)

If you follow the Rockshox guide and youtube videos you can’t go wrong really. Just a case of being methodical and taking your time. The only pain in the arse part for me was getting the old wiper seals out. If you use something metal such as a screw driver be very careful not to scratch the inside of the leg. Otherwise it’s just a case of putting some good tunes on, brewing some tasty coffee and taking your time. :wink:

PS I can’t over stress the importance of having the correct tools, as mentioned above circlip pliers are a must as is a 24mm hex socket. I used a torque wrench too – if you over torque the crush washers they can leak oil.

I rode Long Mynd last summer and came off a couple of times flying down Minton Batch with too much speed. The single track is very narrow in places and if you lose your front wheel over the edge or get stuck in a rut your toast. I also came off on the other decent (can’t remember the name) so it really wasn’t my day. Only damage done was grazed knees and elbows but it sure knocks your confidence coming off on what looks to be straight forward single track 8O

A second shout here for the free memory map app, it’s free so give it a go. Also you get some free credits to try downloading some OS 25 and 50k maps. I find it great – it’s very easy to import and export trail data etc.

I put Rebas on my Rockhopper. It’s a great fork and very tunable with the dual air chambers. They have now moved on to my Piglet and continue to serve me well.

New they are beyond your budget but I got mine from eBay and they were in mint condition with pump included – bargin.