Its a nice little amp, but I would want something with a few more connections for the Living room, such as HDMI/ARC and a couple more analogue inputs.

It might be fine if your TV has an optical output, as that Denon has an optical input. I think the Chromecast would then use the Analog input, but that means you can’t connect anything else directly to the amp.

I would recommend something by Yamaha, they generally have more inputs than you’ll ever need, bluetooth and a few having Airplay too. Just make sure it fits as the Yamaha’s can be quite big.

I have a pair of the cheap £20 Sony noise cancelling cans and they are good for long flights. You can still hear the engines and and other things, but it is a greatly reduced volume. You don’t realise how effective they are until you remove them and hear the roar of the plane. I also had problems connecting to airplane headphone jack, it would either buzz or be in mono with no buzzing.

I blame this thread for me splurging on the Sony MDR-1000X cans. :lol:

Not sure why everyone thinks it’s 12km.

Because that’s what most sites say it is, including the Pila website, well 11/12km. I think I recorded it at 10/11km a few years ago, but I may have missed a couple of trails as there are sooo many you could take.

Awesome place!

This is an actual thing!? This is hilarious! :lol:

Grow some really big sideburns. :wink:

If MT did ever read this ridiculous thread, which I’m pretty sure he won’t waste his time on, I’m sure he would be doing this:

If on the off chance he is reading this, why aren’t you working on the Ibiza rather than reading this crap. :lol:

Check if you frame can use a 200/203 rear disc, one of my bike manuals says do not use anything bigger than 180/183 on the rear.

You might find the lever throw a little greater using the Saint Caliper/XT Lever, but really I have no idea if its suitable. :lol:

We managed to wangle RAC cover for a 40 year old car and paid monthly and only paid for 1 month. I think they have since changed their policy, it was a lot more than £65 for the year :lol:

Tag is more expensive, when we arrived there were others who drove and were stuck at a couple of tolls for 30 minutes due to the queues. It also means the passenger doesn’t have to wake up and deal with the toll booth. Oh it shaves a lot more than 5 mins off. One year we left 30 mins later and was at the lunch stop 20 mins before the others, same route, same speed on the Autoroute, we put it down to not having to queue or even stop at a toll booth.

Definitely step up to 200/203 front rotor. Go for a trick rotor like Shimano Icetech or Uberbike finned rotors and maybe some finned pads too. Maybe try a different pad compound too.

I have to agree, they have moved the goal posts, you now need a license for any Live TV broadcast.

Here’s what a rolled edge is.

You can see on the LHS there is a light reflection on the cutting edge, which usually means there is a bend.

I have no idea what is a strop is, I’m in the knife industry but not hand held knives and I do not profess to know everything about knives. :wink: Polishing it will greatly improve the cut.

Looks a lot better, but I can see a slightly rolled edge and slight nick on the LHS. :wink: It does look good though.

Let me get this right, they are told not to use it at night, you set up Parental controls as well… Your kids then defy you and bypass or reset the controls?

I would’ve confiscated their devices if this had happened, there is no way they would try that shit with me. You haven’t mentioned how you reprimand them so I’m thinking you are a push over and your kids know it.

I suggest a big hammer..

Wookie, but I’m betting its a common name for them. If you don’t want a common name ask you vets if it is common.

Do any of you print while you are out the house? I have a 24 hour print to do (50m of 3mm filament) but I’m not too sure about printing when I’m out the house, it hasn’t screwed up yet while printing.. I do use OctoPi withe PiCam to keep an eye on the prints when I’m around the house.

The best bit of advice I was given when learning CAD was there is no wrong or right way of drawing, but there maybe a quicker way.

+1 RS3’s – Excellent grip in the wet and really good in the dry too. Not sure how long they last as they only lasted 1 day for me, first half of the day raining, second half glorious sun at Castle Combe. :lol:

Have you tried syncing the key to the car?

Taken for PistonHeads:

For keyless systems to re synchronise the key:
Remove remote from vehicle,lock using the door button.
unlock using a programmed remote or using the key in the lock
switch on ignition while holding lock or unlock of un-synched key.

Or for just re-programming you just press the start button in place of turning the key,with the clutch depressed and follow the instructions as per bladed key.

If it was a cheap battery for a multi-pack it may be flat from new. Try another battery.

I would go for wood then glue some steel on the top as its the cheaper option. 420 Stainless shouldn’t rust and you can buy it 1mm/2mm thick heat treated so it shouldn’t get dented easily. This is what we have in the workshop and metal is thrown on it (20-30Kg Lumps) and it doesn’t have any dents after 6-7 years.

Speedo isn’t accurate, therefore your calculations won’t be accurate.

+1, though the best lessons are usually the ones learnt the hard way!

I’ll agree with that. When they say hard way, they mean loosing nearly your whole original investment. :wink:

I’ve never had a reply from Evil US, but I have had success with the European/Spanish Agent.

Definitely not wear, mine has done this since day 1. I’ve now got used to holding my thumb on the lever to stop it trying to shift.

Most decent, printers come with the settings pre-configured. Select material type PLA or ABS, select print quality.. Print!

You can get better prints by fine tuning the settings, wall thickness/top bottom layers, temperature, overhangs/retraction, coasting, movement speed, bridging, etc. The untrained eye probably won’t be able to tell the difference between the default setting and the settings that have taken hours of fine tuning.

The old 1’s n 2’s are in the spare room, along with about 1000+ vinyls. I’m now considering putting a racing sim in the room or under the stairs, just have to find a new place for the 3D printer :?

…mech pulls and ticks on the second to highest cog…

Yea mine has done that since day one. X01 Eagle Mech & XX1 Eagle Cassette on Hope Boost Hub. LBS couldn’t fix it either and it was all setup with the red tool.

Friend had the same problem and his gear cable had a kink in it, replaced it and it solved the problem, but I can see you tried that.

You will need extension bars, universal joints thingies (useful for manifold bolts), contortionists hands, patience, a decent ratchet, a smaller ratchet that you don’t think you ever will use, but you will and a lot of plasters!

I bought this Bahco 138 piece set[/url] and its been extremely good, a really good base to build on.

Photo of said mini would be appreciated for our nostalgia :lol:

Nice to see you are up and running, despite having some problems. Welcome to the world of waiting hours to find it’s failed! :wink:

Stick it in the oven? Set to about 140°C, it should peel off. I had to do a similar thing to remove my nozzle. 8O

This link may help you to work out what is wrong, or how to improve your prints. Print Quality Troubleshooting[/url]

The 3D Benchy test print[/url] is pretty good, it really gives you an idea of what you can and cannot print and then you can fine tune your settings. In the near future you may find you have different settings, one that’s really good at overhangs/gaps and another setting that’s really good at all the other stuff.

What are you using on your bed? I have really good success with blue painters tape and that is without a hot bed.

Flew with BA last year, they didn’t even bother weighing it as it didn’t fit on the scales at Heathrow, it was 32Kg :D

On the way back they stung us for overweight baggage, I have forgotten how much it was. I won’t be flying with BA to Canada again as I cannot get it down to 24Kg, the staff in Canada were very rude and the flight staff were very poor too.

Air Canada this year as they allow 32Kg for the bike!

Literally copy n pasted from your other thread. :wink:

I found the Golf pretty numb and didn’t like the interior. I would never have a Focus ST and friends have a Type R. I ended up with a 130i as I wanted more than 4 cylinders and no Turbo. Its very nimble and the soundtrack is quite addictive! It is a small car though, slightly bigger than a Fiesta, I can just get my 29er LT FS in the rear with seats down and wheels out. They can be had for £5k.

Comma Air Conn Cleaner worked for me, you can buy it in Hellfrauds. Got rid of a very bad mould smell, so bad you could not use the blowers. I had to do it again 6 months later, but then it was fine for years.

If trailforks/strava had a WatchOS app I would seriously consider it. Especially if it made a little blip noise or vibrated when I went passed a trail head start point. That would be really useful for finding new trails.

WCA – The printer you have bought is perfect for that and your reasons are why I bought one. If you wanted to just print things then I would say 3D printing isn’t at that stage yet.

The best advice I had when learning CAD was: There is no right or wrong way to draw, but there might be an easier or quicker way.

Ultimaker is hardly the extreme end, it works well, but is certainly not top end, middle of the road maybe. It seems top end when you are looking at the cheapest printers out there.

I would say you get what you pay for, but with 3D printers that is not the case.

300x300x400mm 8O
That will take a very long time to print big things, as the print speed isn’t lightning speed! It would be fine for printing stuff like vases, not so great at printing big complex objects.

I just sliced a Lego Batman Head, scaled to max for the Creality CR10 and it says it would take 8 days continual printing to finish at 0.2mm layer height, set of draft setting, this generally doesn’t take certain things into consideration such as retraction, print head acceleration and deceleration, so I would add 10% at least.

It also says it will use 1.2km of filament! I realise no one would want to print this at this size, but it gives you an idea of time for a full build plate sized print. :lol:

I don’t want the machine to be the hobby, I want the creative aspect to be the hobby.

Then don’t buy a cheap 3D printer. Something like a new Ultimaker would be better as they hold their settings.

Yeah thought about a camera but it pointing out into the front of the neighbours opposite might annoy them. Not even sure of the legality.

You can put some masking tape over the lens masking out your neighbours. As for the legality, unless anything has recently changed it would be perfectly legal to have CCTV that also covers someone elses property.

You could just tell your neighbour why you have it. :wink:

Castings!? Carbon Fibre :wink:

http://www.mbr.co.uk/videos/bikes-and-equipment/meet-the-man-who-3d-prints-his-own-carbon-fibre-mountain-bikes

Go on then – humour me. How useful can I make it?

I guess if you can’t think of anything that will help you, then it probably won’t be very useful.

It is a great way to learn design/CAD as you get to see a finished product rather than a technical drawing at the end of the day. They are a great tool for helping you with projects but I wouldn’t buy one without knowing what I want to use it for.

Although on the flip side I didn’t need to print anything at the weekend, but something needed C size batteries. Half an hour later I had printed some AA t C battery adaptors, the shop did not have C size batteries!

When designing for 3D printing, there are certain things you need to consider such as your printer limitations. Here are a few:

Top 10 3D Print Design Tips[/url]

Search for 3D objects on yeggi.com[/url], they search loads of sites.

You’ll need this print quality troubleshooting:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/%5B/url%5D
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

I use 3M blue painters tape for sticking the first layer to the bed. A set of calipers will come in handy when configuring your printer, so when you tell it to print a 20mm cube, it doesn’t print 18x19mm. Tweezers & a 1″ & 2″ scraper for getting prints off the bed.

I use vacuum bags for keeping filament in as the filament is hydroscopic, along with silica gels. Make sure you buy a high quality filament for your first few rolls. You don’t want to be chasing your settings as the filament is inconsistent. ColorFabb is pretty good for me and not too expensive.

redmex, I can tell you’ve been there! :lol:

Keir, that is the exact same one I was going to suggest! There is also one on Lodge Rd, just round the corner from Dean Rd, off of Yate Rd/Stover Rd. There is another on North Rd, but I’ve never been to that one.

Do those of you who have invested regularly print anything other than keyrings or batman heads??

Yea!!!! Giant Lego body, legs, arms feet, when finished he will be nearly 2ft tall :lol:
I have also printed EVIL Wreckoning Cable Clips < I need to slightly re-design
GoPro cases and mounts
top ring for a cup holder in the car.
Stormtrooper valve caps

Aeropress Tamper
Darth Vader Fader
Gear Knob for lawn mower
DJI Mavic Feet, Sensor & controller protector
Case for my Pi Touchscreen 3D printer interface
& Loads of little helpful things

My first 3 months were spent printing models, things that had no function and I did not need. I’m always building a project or something in my spare time, so it does come in quite handy.